Archive for December, 2007

Ahhh, Pets-Gotta Love ‘Em

Monday, December 31st, 2007

I used to be strictly a dog person. We always had dogs or puppies running around our house when I was a kid. We never had any cats or kittens. So as an adult out on my own, I just naturally preferred having a dog. I knew dogs.

Dogs are fun because they treat you as if you are the most important thing or person in the universe. They worship you. They instinctively know when you are hurting and will come and whimper at you and want to sit in your lap to comfort you, or lay beside you on the bed as you weep or moan.

Cats, in my opinion, anyway, are haughtier. The looks they give seem to communicate that they truly believe that you were put upon this earth to take care of them, in their time and in the manor they choose. Cats, I think, were put upon the earth to humble us and to make us realize that we are not always the smartest creatures.

Having had a female Shi-Tzu probably prepared me for having a cat around the house. Pebbles was also haughty and proud. Although she could certainly cuddle and whimper like any other dog, it would be under her terms. Even while going about her business in the yard, she stuck her nose in the air and looked at the Heavens, as if doing so would separate her from that messy business going on behind her.

Almost two years ago, my new husband and I inherited a cat from his father, who was moving from a huge house into a smaller apartment. Piewacket was certainly a haughty cat. But I have come to believe that much of her behavior was a result of the treatment to which she was accustomed.

Hubby’s dad would allow said cat to sit in his lap, but he never touched her or petted her. His girlfriend did get cozier with the cat, though. So, when Pie arrived at our house she expected to be loved by the females of the household and ignored or tolerated by the males. She was most likely surprised to discover that my son and husband could love her as well.

In her other household, she lived with retire senior citizens. In our house, she was in the midst of baby boomers, 20-somethings and sometimes a ten-year-old and her friends. What a different world that was for her, especially when they were all animal lovers.

Having spent some time getting used to all of us, she loosened up and suddenly was actually playing. She discovered that her scratching post was more fun than just for working out. And when she discovered how much fun it was to play with yarn, she spent the entire night (or so it seemed to us) tracking it underneath tables and around chair legs. What a mess we had to clean up. But what fun she had re-doing her yarn art.

When Piewacket started exhibiting such behaviors, we considered that getting a kitten would be a wise addition to our family. The kitten we got came from a no-kill shelter that I just loved. Where the animals were housed looked more like rooms than cages and the cats (or dogs in the dog rooms) socialized, played together, shared food bowls, and even learned to use kitty (or doggie) doors to go outside. Our choice – Opera – was a five-month-old kitten.

Opera arrived on the scene just before Christmas and claimed the Christmas tree as her own. Thankfully, I had placed only unbreakable ornaments at swatting range. She also began teaching Pie how to really play.

Pie, on the other hand (or paw), helped us parent Opera by hissing at her when she did something really rowdy or foolish – like when she jumped on the table, dumped our mail on the floor and started playing hockey with it.

Having two cats in the house now means that when hubby and I are watching TV at night, each one is blessed with having a purring fur ball on our laps.

It means that when the older cat wakes in the middle of the night and wants company as she checks out the food and water bowls, she no longer meows and howls for human company. Instead, she nudges the kitten and asks her to be her nighttime companion. Opera is game, since she would eat 24/7 if sleeping and playing didn’t get in the way.

We are thinking about getting a bigger house and property, though. Being looked down upon by the cats has made hubby and me really want some of those people-worshipping dogs around too. We need a bit of balance. We need to feel that we are in charge. We are, aren’t we?

Ahhhh, pets. Gotta love ‘em.

Easy Home Remedies For Dogs

Sunday, December 30th, 2007

Any kind of experiment or incomplete knowledge can not be used on your pet. In fact it is better to consult vet if you have slightest of doubt regarding the efficacy of the treatment.

As with any kind of remedy, home remedies for your pet should not be just a verbal treatment. So you need to possess the right knowledge regarding the quality and dosage of the medicine before giving to your dog. Also, you should know that any medicine that works for you may not be the one for the canine.

Here are some easy home remedies you can safely use for your dog:

Ticks or fleas

Make a paste of the orange rinds and apply it evenly on the fur of the dog. Let it remain there for five hours. And then wash it gently. This is one easy and safe home remedy for helping your dogs get rid of ticks and fleas.

Chop some garlic cloves (not more than three at a time) and mix it well into the canine’s food. This is the correct and effective preventive measure for ticks.

Dry, cracked paws

You will find the irritation in the behavior of the dog, due to cracked and dry paws. Take Vaseline or petroleum jelly and apply it to the paws for four to five days. You will find the expected improvement and the paw will heal.

Odor problem

As part of the overall cleanliness drive, add a few drops of vinegar in the dog’s bath water. Bad smell and unhygienic odor will be a thing of the past now. But to implement the same scheme for bath during winters would be difficult as the dog is reluctant to take the bath. It gets dirty day by day and could be the source of infection for your family. You can use soda bicarbonate as a dry shampoo. Rub it vigorously and evenly. This is as effective as you have given a good bath to the dog.

Chewing furniture

Your puppy has the habit of chewing furniture legs. Take clove oil and give a thin coating, within the teach of the tongue of the puppy. You will find soon that your puppy is looking out alternative places for its adventure.

Insects and bites

Insect stings and bites are another common problem with the dogs. As soon as you notice this, put adequate solution of baking soda and water on the stung area, as if you are giving a bath. You will notice swelling and apply ice packs to counter this. Do it a number of times in a day for 5 minutes at a time. If it is a serious sting, watch the behavior of the dog for 24 hours and if you find any abnormality, take him to the vet.

Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 2

Saturday, December 29th, 2007

On the Popular TV series “COPS” they play a song which says, in part, “Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do, whatcha gonna do when they come for you?” Many people bring home an adorable, cute puppy that eventually grows into a dog. Without proper training, some of those dogs become destructive and eventually the owners shrug their shoulders and say “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, whatcha gonna do?” Hopefully, those people will read articles like this one, “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1,” and others like them before they do the unthinkable and call the “Dog Police” to take their beloved pet to the pound!

In “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1” we explained the “Dog Pack” instinct, and the “Alpha Dog” mentality, and gave suggestions on how to “reprogram” your dog so that he/she knows that you are the Alpha dog. You can find that article in the Dog Articles Feature at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com. In addition to those “Alpha Dog” techniques, there are other things you can do to help alleviate your “bad dog behavior.” This article will teach you ways to “deprogram” your misbehaving dog so you can retrain him properly and thus facilitate a more harmonious relationship between family and pet.

But before we proceed, if you suffer from “bad dog syndrome” with your family pet, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn’t suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is indeed healthy, implement the following suggestions.

1. Read other articles, magazines, ezines, and books on dogs, training and behavior. The more you know the better trainer you’ll be.

2. Be consistent. Just like a child, your dog will notice your inconsistencies, and will “test your mettle” by pushing the boundaries to determine who is really in control. Do it the same way every time.

3. Earn your dog’s respect. Be firm and fair in training and discipline. Never resort to violence. Positive reinforcement techniques have always proven the more successful training method. Your dog’s submission to you should always be out of respect, not fear.

4. Spend quality time with your dog. Interact with your dog. Quite often, the cause of misbehavior in dogs is similar to that in children. They are simply looking for QUALITY TIME, ATTENTION and LOVE. Remember all the love and attention you gave that sweet, adorable puppy? Well, your adult dog still craves that same love and attention. Just be careful when giving that attention to a problem dog, to always retain your alpha status.

5. During training sessions, always maintain eye contact with your dog until he turns away. That way he knows you are the master and he is submissive to you. I once maintained eye contact with a strong-willed Brittany for 12 minutes before he finally looked away. Demand your dog’s attention during short training sessions. (A dog’s attention span is a maximum of ten to fifteen minutes). As examples, command your dog to heel, and then look at you before commencing a walk. Or make your dog sit or lie down before getting treats.

6. Give your dog plenty of exercise. Take her for a thirty minute walk – the exercise will do you good, give her the attention she deserves, and tire her out so she prefers to rest instead of wreaking havoc! Dogs are a bundle of bounding energy. They can’t help it, God wired them that way! Give them an outlet for that energy. If you live in the woods like I do, let them out to run and play. (However, I always pen them up at night either outside in a fence with dog houses, or I kennel them inside in cages and kennel crates with crate pads or beds). Take your dog to a park, or better yet, one of those fancy new dog parks where dogs are allowed to play and socialize. Let your dog out in a fenced yard, or if you don’t have or don’t like a fenced yard, get an electronic fence and containment system, so your dog knows the boundaries of where they can and can’t go safely. K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com has some great inside and outside electronic dog containment systems, kennel crates, cages, pads, and beds.

7. Feed your dog a high protein, well balanced diet. Sometimes, dog misbehavior is simply a result of hunger and/or malnutrition. I suggest looking for food with meat and rice as the first ingredients, rather than corn meal and meat by-products. I also suggest a protein content of 24-30% and fat content of 10-18%. This will ensure a strong, healthy dog with a shiny coat.

8. Remove temptation. Put trash cans and people food out of the dog’s reach. If you have a destructive dog, put him in the yard or in a kennel crate or cage while you are at work or gone from the house. If you let him out to “do his business” in the morning before you leave for work, he will be fine in an appropriately sized kennel cage or crate with pillow pad until you return. If needed, you can find sizing guidelines and the appropriate kennel crates, cages, carriers, pads, beds, and other supplies at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com.

9. If needed, use appropriate training tools. Although choke collars should be a thing of the past because of the possible danger of injury to your dog’s larynx, an electronic collar is a humane training tool that can provide an appropriate negative “signal,” followed by your positive reinforcement for right behavior. With proper use, in a short time just wearing the collar brings appropriate good behavior. Very few things are more disturbing to a dog lover that seeing your beloved pet run out into the street and get hit by a car, or watching your $1000 bird dog run over the hill never to be seen again. However, if you know your limitations and feel you cannot handle the job yourself, you can find many reputable dog trainers who specialize in behavior problems. Your local vet can probably assist you if needed.

10. Finally, be patient. Positive training and dog behavior modification takes time. Your dog will soon begin to behave in a more positive manner if you follow these helpful suggestions.

Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is, will soon move you from saying “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?” to saying, “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!”

You can find all the AWESOME products you need for training and spoiling your special dog at K-9 Outfitters, a Division of Damascus Road Enterprises – www.Damascus-Road-enterprises.com.

Dealing with a Fearful Dog

Friday, December 28th, 2007

Bang. Boom. The sounds of a beautiful fireworks display. An exciting finish to a 4th of July celebration. Something most humans look forward to each year.

But not something all of our four-legged friends look forward to. The bright lights and loud noises are enough to cause some dogs to run and hide under a bed.

Some dogs are not bothered by a fireworks display or thunderstorm; while other dogs become so stressed they can barely move. As a pet owner you need to be aware of the signs of fear in your dog.

Knowing the signs is the first step to helping him avoid the things that frighten him. Trembling and shaking, barking, drooling, hiding, and refusing to eat are all common signs of fear in a dog. In some severe cases, loss of bladder or bowel control is a sign of extreme fear.

While all of these are signs of fear, they can also be symptoms of diseases and poisoning. If the symptoms continue after the fireworks or thunderstorm is over, please take your pet to his veterinarian right away.

Knowing that your dog is afraid is half the battle. Knowing how to help him through his frightening event is the other half. Here are some tips to keep him calm and safe.

Be sure to keep your dog inside during a loud, frightening event. Close the curtains and turn on the television or radio to help distract him. If that does not help, and your dog has been crate trained, put him inside his crate so he can feel safe and secure.

If you know the event is going to happen, take your dog outside before so he can take care of his bathroom duties before. That way, he doesn’t have to go out during the event.

Always be sure your pet has a current license and identification tags in case he gets loose from the house. Some dogs will bolt during a frightening time and all it takes is an open door or gate to lose your best friend. A terrified pet may not come back when called.

Sometimes being with your pet during his stressful time is the best thing you can do for him. Speaking softly and holding him. Just letting your pet know you are there for him can sometimes be enough to calm him down.

But what if your pet can’t be soothed? Some dogs are so scared by loud noises that nothing can calm them down. If your dog is one of these four-legged friends, then talk to your veterinarian about the possibility of tranquilizing him during frightening events. Your dog’s veterinarian will want to examine your dog before making a decision about whether tranquilizers are right for him.

Thunderstorms and fireworks can be frightening things to deal with, especially when you are a dog. Learn the signs of stress and you will be able to help your furry friend deal with his fear.

Getting and Keeping Your Dog’s Attention-the Key to Effective Training

Thursday, December 27th, 2007

Getting your dog’s attention is one of the most important things you can do to accelerate all other training skills. And if, once you’ve got it, you can keep that attention, then you’re really going to make some fast progress. Keeping your dog’s attention is essential in competition work, in the obedience ring for example, but also invaluable in everyday life.

Okay, so we’ve established the advantages, now we need to look at how to attain this goal. It isn’t necessarily going to be easy to keep your dog’s attention, and some breeds are certainly more difficult than others but here are some tips on how to achieve this with most dogs.

Use the sit command and a tasty treat. Your dog must already have learned this command and it must be solid – the dog must understand what is required of him and respond quickly to the command. You can read my article on teaching your dog the sit command if you haven’t already taught him this.

So, give the sit command, asking your dog to sit in heel position, and use his favourite tasty treat to encourage him to look upwards at your face. Praise him when he focuses his attention on you, give him the treat and release him from the sit command. Do this again and again, each time increasing the time where he is looking and concentrating on your face. You want to have his attention, so he is responsive to your next command.

Soon, your dog will automatically look at you when he sits, because he becomes accustomed to being praised and given a treat. As with all training, you can gradually replace the treat with praise, just giving him an occasional treat to maintain his interest. Whenever you are not giving your dog your undivided attention when he is sitting to heel and looking at you, remember to give your release command. He will quickly lose interest if you are busy, and you need to continually reinforce and reward this behaviour.

Once you and your dog are working well with this in a quiet location, you can gradually add other distractions, increasing these in small increments to allow your dog to adjust. Praise him when he gets it right, give the release command and play with your dog – he must know when he has done well, and training should be a happy, pleasurable pursuit for both of you.

The next step is to extend this principle to heeling and other obedience training. Using the same procedure as above, gradually teach your dog that is to his advantage to watch you, to be looking at your for your next command, during all obedience training. The key to this is to build his attention span by tiny increments and praise him when he has done well. Never get frustrated or angry with your dog if he loses attention. This will be detrimental to his training – simply praise him when he gets it right and make sure, at the beginning, that the treat you choose is his absolute favourite. Praise, fun and patience are the three things that will gradually build obedience in any dog.

Dog Training: How To Understand Your Dog’s Mood

Wednesday, December 26th, 2007

Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.

Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:

Dominant - You’ll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.

Friendly - A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.

Playful - A bow position with wagging tail means “let’s play.”

Submissive - A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn’t happy but shows it will not attack.

Aggressive - An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.

Worried - Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means “I’m worried” or “something is wrong.”

Fear - A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Stressed - A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.

Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.

In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.

Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.

If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.

Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

Dealing with a Dog Food Allergy?

Tuesday, December 25th, 2007

Just as humans allergies can show up as a sneeze or rash, your dog’s allergies can manifest as itchiness — or even ear infections. In fact, if your dog’s allergic to his food, it can cause him to scratch himself constantly, even with no obvious parasite problem.

Dog allergies rarely get solved with medicine, so the best we can do for our four-footed friends is focus on prevention. Providing the right type of food is essential to stopping your dog’s scratching habit.

Many people like to share their food with their dogs or let them help “clean up” the kitchen after a meal. Little do they know, their dogs just may not be able to take the tasty food we love so much, and some breeds (like the greyhound) are extremely sensitive. Even common foods like cheese, beef sausage and tuna may cause allergic reactions in some dogs. So it’s best to let dogs enjoy dog food and not human food, even though they clearly adore and want what we’re eating!

Narrowing Down the Problem

To determine the exact ingredients your dog is allergic to, try an elimination diet. Although powerful, it also requires patience. In fact, the elimination diet can call for eliminating specific food for up to 12 weeks before you’ll notice the effects. And if you still haven’t found the right (and wrong) ingredients, you’ll have to repeat the process all over again.

So is there an alternative to the lengthy elimination diet? Yes — give your dog a brand or type of food he’s never eaten before. But simply changing to a new brand of dog food might not be enough to eliminate his food allergies, since many brands contain similar ingredients. Instead, study the existing ingredients your dog is eating to determine which types of protein source he hasn’t been exposed to. Then, hunt for a dog food that doesn’t contain any of the ingredients you saw listed. For example, there are many brands of dog food that contains unusual protein sources such as rabbit or venison — great for testing allergic reactions to other, more common proteins.

Perhaps the best way for you to get control of dog’s allergies is to whip up your own dog food. That way, you’ll know exactly what he’s getting and what he isn’t — something that’s extremely hard to tell from reading the back of a dog food bag. Making your own food is especially helpful in elimination diets. To start, combine a portion of rice with baby food and lamb — so long as your dog isn’t already eating lamb and possibly displaying a reaction to it.

Dog food allergies are a special condition that can be frustrating and take patience to solve. Since allergic reactions don’t disappear overnight, you’ll need lots of time and thoughtfulness to help your dog overcome this problem — but his goofy smile and those scratch-free days ahead will probably make it all worth it.

Chihuahuas: Dog Breed For You?

Monday, December 24th, 2007

Chihuahuas are one of the most popular dog breeds today, especially after the famous Taco Bell commercials. They are the smallest of any breed, which is another reason why they everyone likes them. Even though they are so common, this does not mean that this is the dog for you. These dogs are not for everyone.

The Chihuahua dog was named after a region in Mexico called Chihuahua. It is the oldest breed in America. Even though this breed is native to Mexico, the Chinese introduced it. At the end of the nineteenth century it was brought to Europe and has become more and more popular since then. Most people today want these dogs as small as can be and the smallest are often the most expensive.

The Chihuahua breed comes in two varieties, long haired and short haired. Both coat types come in many colors, such as brown, black, fawn, white and silver. They weigh between two and six pounds and their height is only six to nine inches. They also have the longest life span of any breed and regularly live over fifteen years.

Each Chihuahua has its own personality, so not many generalizations can be made about the breed. Most Chihuahuas are very devoted and loyal to their owners. This causes jealousy and suspicion when strangers are around. They are very courageous, lively, strong-willed, bold and fearless. With their owners, these dogs are very gentle and loving. However, because they are so protective of their owners, they are very wary of strangers.

Chihuahuas do not do well with other dogs except for their own breed. If they are around other dog breeds they tend to be aggressive. They are also not recommended for children. These dogs need to be socialized extensively from a puppy to prevent aggressiveness with strangers and other dogs. If they are not socialized they can become so wary of other people that they will bite.

If you have a short haired Chihuahua it will only require occasional brushing, however, the long haired variety requires brushing several times a week. This dog is an average shedder. When bathing them, you must be sure not to get water in their ears because they are very susceptible to ear infections. When this dog is a puppy, they are very fragile and you must be very careful with them. Also, they cannot handle the cold, so it is recommended that they be kept inside. If you bring them outside, you should put a warm sweater on them.

The breed does have several health problems that owners need to be aware of. They have a very short nose which causes them to sneeze and snore. Because their eyes are so large, they are prone to corneal dryness. Other common health problems include colds, stress, gum problems and rheumatism. You need to be sure not to over-feed Chihuahuas because they gain weight very easily.

Chihuahuas can be difficult to train, but if you are consistent they do well. The best way to train them is to use positive reinforcement. They do not respond well to other forms of discipline.

Chihuahuas make great pets if they have intense socialization and consistent training. The Chihuahua’s extremely small size makes it a great dog for people that live in apartments. It is very adaptable and hardy, but must live inside. They are good companions that travel very easily and are very loving to their owners.

Crate Training for Puppies

Sunday, December 23rd, 2007

Remember that repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you continually show him/her the preferred behaviour numerous times. Keep in mind also that your puppy does not know what is predictable and must be shown the correct place to eliminate, and when.

Your best bathroom training ground is your crate. When you cannot look after your puppy, use a crate. Think of the pen the same way you think of a playpen for a child. Even if you are only departing the room for a “minute”, either take the dog with you or use the pen. After all, you would not leave a kid in the house alone “for just a moment” would you?

Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it an encouraging occurrence. The den is all part of the wild dog’s background and protection zone. The same thing applies to the “crate”. Giving the dog special “treats” is a wonderful way to initiate him or her to his crate. The only time the puppy gets these exceptional treats is when he or she is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Use the crate sensibly. Don’t crate only when you are leaving the house. Put the puppy in the pen while you are home as well. Use it as a “secure” zone.

By crating when you are home and while you are gone, the puppy becomes content in the den and not apprehensive that you will not return. This helps to remove separation nervousness later in life. The majority of dogs will not soil their “den”. The first few attempts you might have some accidents, but don’t be discouraged.

If the den is too huge, the pup can without problems soil on one side and rest on the other. The way to stop this is to buy a crate that will contain your pet when it is fully developed. Whenever you take away the puppy from the crate or just want the puppy to “go to the bathroom”, take the dog to the door that will always be used to “go outside”.

During housebreaking don’t let the pup outside to eliminate by itself. You go with the dog too. Provide the puppy ample amount of time. When the puppy urinates, praise the puppy with “good dog” and give it a small treat. When the puppy poops, again praise the puppy with “good dog” and give a treat.

If done consistently, this instruction process should take only about 2 weeks for the dog to comprehend. This technique will work with any dog, apart from those of greater age. If you adopt a dog from a shelter, follow the same practice.

Crate training has been working for years and will help your dog. It’s a great technique to make your dog feel safe and to train it to go to the bathroom outdoors. Watch that pup, and please crate train! Take it slow and easy… be tolerant and have fun with your dog!

Dog Bed And Cat Bed Selection - The Importance Of Choosing The Correct Bed For Your Pet

Saturday, December 22nd, 2007

All pets need “a place to be” bed that is comforting, and that will not contribute to potential health problems for your pet. There are some important things to remember when choosing the best, affordable, bed for your pet.

The materials that are used in the pet beds are very important. They will vary with the marketing edge that the manufacturer perceives as wanted by the customer. Reactions to certain materials can be harmful to susceptible pets, and cause unacceptable behaviors of chewing or soiling their beds.

Thankfully, pet bed choices, for dogs and cats, have evolved to the benefit of the animals over the last decade. No longer is the “cheap” bed thought to be acceptable for family pets. Various style gimmicks have come along that look cute to the consumer, but can prove to be impractical and unused by the pet.

It is best to purchase a well made bed, that is pet pleasing. More money can actually be spent replacing beds that disintegrate when washed, or beds that are unused by picky pets.

Be sure to choose a pet bed that is made with non-allergenic materials. The inner part of the bed should also be of non-allergenic material. Some beds are made with cedar filling, with the “promotional edge” promising to repel fleas. These are mostly ineffective, and can cause allergic reactions to those pets that are susceptible. Fleas are best kept away by spraying the environment, bathing the pet, and washing ALL of the pet bedding.

Pet beds with removable zipper covers only encourage those pets who like to chew and destroy their beds.

The hard foam constructed beds, with removable covers, are problematic because they give off an odor that encourages chewing and will not conform to the pet at rest. You can never wash the foam, and will never have a thoroughly clean bed. Most of the covers of these removable beds will shrink when washed and dried, and are hard to put back on, if they are even still usable.

A pet bed that meets the profile of a perfect pet bed, is the WallyBed. It was developed to eliminate all the problem features of traditional pet beds. WallyBeds are available in five styles, with a variety of sizes in each style, meeting the need of most pets. They are made of acrylic faux fur, which is comforting to pets, and filled with 100% non-allergenic polyester filler, creating a heavenly feel of softness that most pets can not resist. WallyBeds are made with quality materials that endure many washings. The designer faux fur prints, and solid faux furs, enhance the pet’s beauty when closely matched with the pet’s coloring. WallyBeds are popular with home decorators because of the way they blend easily with any decor.

Complete information can be found on www.wallybed.com, along with authorized dealers. The “customer satisfaction” photos and comments attest to the wonders of WallyBed.

Copyright, Max Enterprises 2006