Pets

Afghan hounds are tall and elegant dogs with long, flowing coats. They were originally developed in Afghanistan in the 19th century as hunting dogs. They were used to hunt large prey over rough and unstable terrain. This may seem contradictory to the current perception of the breed as one of the most pampered pooches.

Afghans require a lot of grooming maintenance to keep their long silky hair in top condition. Even if you don’t have a show dog, a clean and healthy coat will enhance your pleasure of owning this graceful breed. Hair is the signature feature of the Afghan and, when properly cared for, it brings drama and elegance to the Afghan’s every move.

The natural sate of an Afghan coat does not require you to clip or trim the dog’s hair. The long, silky coat occurs naturally, but this does not imply that the coat is maintenance-free. The keys to keeping an Afghan coat beautiful are regular bathing and maintenance grooming.

Afghan puppies require little grooming as they have a short, plush coat of hair. At this age, daily brushing is more for getting the animal used to grooming than for necessity. Between 9 months and 2 years of age,

Afghans begin to shed their puppy coat and the silky adult coat begins to grow in. Daily brushing is an absolute necessity during this period to remove the old puppy hair. Skimping on brushing will result in unwieldy mats of the puppy coat tangled with the new growth adult coat.

Adult Afghans only need to be brushed three times a week and bathed up to twice a week for show dogs, and every two weeks for family pets. The breed has a dual coat of a thicker undercoat and a silky overcoat. The coats are essentially two different types of hair and need to be brushed separately. If you only brush the outer coat, your dog will develop mats. A pin brush will penetrate the undercoat sufficiently and smooth the outer coat as well.

Before bathing an Afghan, brush the dog thoroughly and remove any mats present. Use your fingers to search for mats behind the ears and in the armpits of the dog. If you are bathing your dog yourself, you may find a raised tub with a hand sprayer will make the job much easier.

When you apply the mild shampoo, make sure to work it into the coat well but never rub or scrub the dog’s skin. Rinse well until the water runs clear and then apply a cream rinse. Afghan coats benefit from the cream rinse and the treatment makes their overcoat silky, shiny and tangle-free.

Afghans are a breed that must be blown dry. Allow your dog to drip dry for about an hour on towels. Brush from the skin out and allow the blow dryer to part the dog’s coat. Most owners start at the head, and work their way back to the tail of the dog.

Another important part of Afghan maintenance grooming is using a “snood.” These protective tube-like head covers keep the dog’s long ear fringe out of the way when it is eating. Snoods can also be used to protect the coat quality of the head and ears of show dogs.

Dogs is a major status symbol in American pet-keeping. Every year, over 12 billion dollars have been spent on dog food and veterinary care alone. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association’s 2003-2004 Pet Owners’ Survey, more than half of dog owners purchase toys for their dogs.

Playing with toys is not the monopoly of little kids but also pets of different kind. Dogs have their own sets of toys to enjoy during their playing time.

Dogs benefit from these toys, health and training wise. There are dog toys that can strengthen their teeth or build their intelligence especially if they also attend a series of training classes with the experts. Like man, dogs are very sociable. Interaction with their companion or a sibling dog is very important in avoiding behavioral problems in the future.

When buying toys for your dog, you may want to match them with your dog’s needs, demands and even personality. Is your dog the type that enjoys chasing and retrieving games, or chewing, sitting and sprawling? You may want to try experimenting first to find out which toys make your dogs the happiest.

Before going on a toy hunt, take a look at this list of toys that may help you identify the right kind of toy for your dog.

* CHEW TOYS. These are perfect for the dog that likes to chew a lot. Instead of your dog chewing your furniture, why not buy these TOUGH little babies for them. These types of dog toy are usually made of nylon or latex rubber. The “King Kong Toys” are among the popular brands of chew toys. You can experiment by stuffing these toys with peanut butter or cheese spread, freeze them and give them to your dog for hours of licking and chewing fun.

Doggie “potato chips” is also a favorite. These “edible chips” can last to a minimum of an hour to a couple of days. They are available in different shapes like pig ears, snouts, cow knuckles, femurs, hooves and bully sticks. Others are bone-shaped made from a variety of vegetables such as carrots.

Another good toy for your dog’s chewing pleasure is the rawhide. These are non- consumable, mummified skin-like toy that you have to throw away when they get soggy, and give your dog a new one. Some rawhides are basted with a variety of flavorings. Be sure to get the “USA rawhide” with a little flag sticker on the label because these do not contain preservative flavorings that are harmful for your dogs.

SQUEAKY TOYS. For these toys, choose the rubber over the stuffed toys for durability and to avoid synthetic materials. These little noisemakers are good for training your dog’s hunting skills.

RETRIEVING TOYS. These are perfect for the chase-and-retrieve types of dogs. Dogs enjoy these toys because they get to play with you. Frisbees and balls made specifically for this activity, are the best to be used. Your dog will get a good workout and so is your arm.

TUG TOYS. These toys are best for dogs that like to grab hold and never let go. Available in rope-like designs.

BRAIN TEASERS. Best for dogs that is left alone a lot. “Biscuit balls” and “food cubes” are great examples. These toys require the dog to solve types of puzzle in order to get a treat.

Various toys of these forms are available in the market.

1. For Chewers of all Sizes

SQUIRREL DUDE – tough, durable and fun too; this hollow rubber chew toy takes on a new level in innovation; this helps to exercise your dog’s jaw a little more with the four little rubber prongs blocking the hole slightly that the dog has to work a little harder to get the goodies out.

2. Ball Launchers and Throwers (Retrieve Toys)

FRISBEES – is an all-time favorite dog toy especially the soft version; fold to fit in a pocket; comes in blue and orange colors, size six to nine inches, prices at eleven to sixteen dollars.

THE ROUND ORBEE - a tough ball hallowed with ½ inch thick membraney surface and it’s softish; it is flexible, durable, grippy, bouncy, and buoyant and has a peppermint scent; good for sniffing-and-getting-the- ball game; prices at five to twelve dollars depending on the size and form you choose

3. Squeaky Toys

SQUEAKERS – available in packages of ten each; dogs that love to silence squeakers are the best for this toy; excellent as attention and pocket squeaker as well; prices go lower if you buy in packages, from five to three dollars each box/package.

4. Tug Toys

LEATHER TUGS – great for tug-of-war games with your dog; made of high grade leather, 3/8 inches thick, tanned and not-treated; dogs like them a lot especially those with active lifestyle.

THE MONGO FETCH TOY – a chew and tug toy combined in one; the natural rubber bar is vanilla scented; rope running through the center gives you a grip for tug games and the soft tasseled ends are made for exciting action with your dogs; medium to large in size, from five to seven dollars each.

5. Brain Teasers

I CUBE - this is a toy that challenges and develops your dog’s intelligence and puzzle solving skills; be sure you are there for supervision; available in junior and jumbo sizes, six to eleven dollars.

DUCK EGG BABY - egg Babies are a plush toy with three squeaker eggs inside; there is an opening on the bottom of the toy so your dog can get the hidden treasures inside; this is a toy that challenges and develops your dog’s intelligence and puzzle solving skills too.

Toys are a fun way to enjoy with your dog in a sunny day at the park. But be sure to apply proper safety measures especially when playing with balls, sticks and stones. You do not want to harm them in any way. Remember, this is a dog-eat-dog world! Even as harmless as playing can cause indestructible damage to your dog.

Mihail Fortomas is a teacher of Biology in a High School of Athens Greece. For the dog owner who wants dog health care information - everything for Dog Diseases and Treats, Foods and Diet, visit:

http://1source-body-health.com/dog-health-care.html

Spot is a long time member of your beloved family. Because Spot is a close member of the family, he needs to have the best kind of food and the have the best health as you could actually provide him. Unfortunately, not all kinds of food for pets are the same. There are those that promise health and there are those that actually deliver them. Fortunately, the AAFCO is on the lookout for those that misuse or abuse terms and words found in product labels on pet foods.

The following are tips and ways to make sure that your pet get to eat what they so long deserve. They are family and it’s good to discriminate what they eat:

It is best that you read and re-read any and all labels found on the product of pet foods. It is not enough to just read them though, one should also try – as much as possible – to understand what a particular product description means. When a product label reads chicken-cat food, this description basically means that the food in the can consists ninety five percent of chicken. However, if the product label reads as cat-food-with-chicken, this description basically means that the food in the can contains three percent chicken. The chicken description does not end there though, there are product labels that read: with a flavor of chicken. This description basically means that the pet food contains no chicken. What it does have is the taste of chicken as well as its flavor.

As much as it is possible, try to read carefully all the ingredients found on the product label of the pet food. It is a must that manufacturers list down all the ingredients used into making the food. Plus, this should not be merely a list though. The specific weight of each ingredient must also be indicated. The dominant ingredient in the pet food is usually listed as the first one.

Also, try to avoid those pet food products that merely indicate meat. The best kind of pet food must have a specific kind of meat in them and this kind of meat must be present and described in the label — be it beef, chicken, salmon or lamb. Also, those kinds of meat that usually contain bones, organs, tendons of animals are usually those that are the surplus of slaughterhouses. It is best that these kind of meats be avoided and not be given to your pets as these are merely byproducts. Usually this term is used to actually mean reject-foods. These are the kinds of food that are the product of a process that has left the food overcooked and usually are extremely processed. This is not widely known to the general public.

It is best that you look for the food that indicates that any tests done on animals on the pet food product has been done using procedures authorized by the AAFCO. This ensures that adequate testing on the food has been done.

If your pet is currently undergoing a special health problem, or if your pet is pregnant, diabetic or has allergies, it is best that you find and purchase the pet food that is just as right and appropriate to what they are similarly going through. Believe it or not, there are foods out there that are highly specialized for pets in all forms and sizes, be it that the pets are lactating, mature or have hair balls.

If you find out that the pet food you are to purchase is about to expire in a few days or so, it basically means that the food has been long sitting on the shelf. As much as possible, get foods that are still somewhat fresh off the shelf, so to speak.

If you are to introduce a new food to your pet, do it slowly but surely. Try mixing a little bit of the new food with the old one your pet may be used to eating. Continue to do this for three days or more. Be observant as to how your pet is taking it. Is he having an allergy? Is he scratching? Do you see any reactions that are not normal?

In summary, your pet is only as healthy as the food you give them. So give them the best so that he or she can live optimally.

The Weimaraner is a dog that needs plenty of exercise and a place to run. Try to avoid running them after a meal as they may develop a life threatening bloat. This breed of dog will do better with three smaller meals a day rather then two or even one large meal. This is a very protective dog and can be a one person or one family dog. They may not be trusted with other pets due to their strong prey instinct. They may fight other canines. They need to be socialized with children and very young children are in danger of being knocked over but this athletic, highly active dog. They have a coat that is very pleasing to the touch. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Weimaraner is 24 to 27 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 55 to 70 pounds. The female ranges from 22 to 25 inches to the withers and 50 to 65 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Weimaraner is no exception. Be on the look out for bleeding disorders, gastric tension and Canine Hip Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness). This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Weimaraner has an easy care sleek, short and smooth coat that feels like heaven to the touch. She should be brushed regularly and rubbed down with a chamois to make her coat shine. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Weimaraner can live between 10 and 12 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Weimaraner comes from Germany where they were used to hunt big game. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1943.

Some Registries

• Weimaraner Club of America
• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

5 to 7 Weimaraner puppies

Category

Sporting, Gundog

Terms To Describe

Aristocrat, speed, grace, balance, alert, friendly, affectionate, obedient, alert, fearless

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• Very good watch dog.
• Very good guard dog.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• May be a bit headstrong.
• Must be kept exercised.

Other Names Known By

Weimar Pointer, Gray Ghost

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

Our dogs are special members of our families. Even though they sport nice fur coats, you still need to take special precautions during cold weather. Dogs need shelter from the weather and have needs just as we do. Following a few simple guidelines will keep your pet safe and happy.

The ideal situation is to let your pet stay inside during cold weather. If this is not possible, make sure they have a place that is warm, dry and away from drafts. Provide extra insulation such as straw and/or blankets. If you provide a doghouse, be sure to face the door to the south in order to avoid frigid north winds.

If you allow your dog indoors, provide a comfy old blanket for him to burrow and snuggle in. Place a blanket or more around if you have floors that are not carpeted. Those tile and hardwood floors get cold!

Use caution when walking or playing with your dog near lakes, rivers, ponds and such. A dog can slip or jump and fall into icy waters. Icy water temperatures can lead very quickly to hypothermia and death.

When your dog comes in from the outside and is wet from snow or cold rain, towel or blow dry him. Be sure his undercoat is dry also. And don’t forget to dry his paws. This will help prevent cracking.

As for nutritional needs, give your dog more calories when the temperatures drop. This is especially true for an outdoor or working dog. It takes more energy to supply body heat and therefore he will burn more calories. Take time to help your dog keep warm. Fresh water should be provided just as in summer. Cold, dry air will cause dehydration. Snow is no substitution for water.

Be aware of hazards around your home. Antifreeze, rock salt and heat sources can harm or even kill your dog. Be diligent! Check constantly for any harmful substances. If you are not sure if something is poisonous or otherwise harmful, err on the side of caution and clean it up or dispose of it.

Do not leave your pet in a vehicle. If you leave the vehicle running, your dog could be overcome by carbon monoxide fumes. If you turn your car off, it can quickly become too cold. Use common sense. If you wouldn’t leave a child in the car, don’t leave a pet there either.

These are simple precautions. Put yourself in your dogs place. If it isn’t warm and comfortable to you chances are it isn’t to your dog either. Make winter a safe, cozy time for your dog and you will be rewarded with lots of love.

There are many different species of parrots, but none so popular as the breeds of the green parrot. There are of course many different subspecies of the green parrot, including the Australian king parrot, the Eastern green parrot, the king lorry and so many more. These particular parrots are mostly native to Australia where they find their homes in the natural rain forests in subtropical climates. The king parrot for one, is one of the most beautiful species of parrots known and are very popular to be kept as pets, however they fetch a high cost that most people cannot afford. Also many of these green parrots are caught illegally in the wild and sold on the black market. Many are killed in the process.

The King Parrot

The king parrot is native to Australia and is commonly known by multiple names including; the Eastern King, Queensland King, King Lorry, Scarlet Parrot and of course most often known as the Green Parrot. They are usually found in humid rainforests when they are able to blend into the surrounding habitat with their naturally green appearance.

Most green parrots stay within small flocks, however is some parts of Australia you might see much larger flocks flying beautifully in the air. One of the most well known facts about the green parrot is that they are said to be one of the most loudest species of parrots and cab be heard from a long distance away screeching like there is no tomorrow!

What About Training Green Parrots?

Most green parrots have a limited training potential. They are often kept as pets in large aviaries and sometimes in the house. They are not known to be great talkers, however they are great company and always friendly, except for the fact that some may bite on the very rare occasion. They are said to be one of the most devoted parrots to their owners out of all the breeds of parrots on Earth and therefore also occasionally protective.

There is a reason why most people keep their green parrots outside and that is because some of these parrots have been known to develop lung diseases due to the reduction of oxygen inside houses. If you do decide to purchase a green parrot, make sure you first have an aviary already built in your backyard. Also as like most parrots, they need a lot of care and attention so you are best buying more than one parrot so that it has company all the time when you are not able to be around.

Presenting a gift to a bird lover is not actually very difficult, as the main thing that has to be remembered is to present him with something that is either related to birding or has a picture of a bird on it.

One of the best gifts to give a bird lover is a birdhouse, as someone who really loves birds loves different types of birdhouses, too. However, keep in mind that some birdhouses are made for specific birds, while others can be used by multiple types and sizes of birds.

Birds love to play in water and drink and bathe in it, so buying a bird lover a birdbath or a fountain as a gift is not a bad idea. But even here, avoid bright colors like red when buying a birdbath or fountain; birds may get scared by the color. Also try to avoid birdbaths with shiny things that reflect the sun, as this, too, may scare the birds.

Watching birds eating happily in the backyard is another thing that a bird lover enjoys doing. So buying a birdfeeder for this purpose is yet another great idea for the bird lover.

Apart from presenting the bird lover with one of the necessities of birding as a gift, you could also present him with an apron, mug, hooded sweatshirt, notebook, cap or stickers with a picture of a Macaw parrot, African Grey parrot or any other bird for that matter. In other words, giving a bird lover bird-themed items is a good choice. For those who like stuffed toys, there are also many avian species of stuffed toys like the puffin, owl and wood duck. So, head down to the gift shop or perhaps the bird store to choose the perfect gift for your bird lover friend.

Let me start off by stating that not all pit bulls are born dangerous. The real source of the danger lies with irresponsible ownership. These dogs are not human aggressive by nature. They are also one of the most abused breed of animals in this country.

Pit bulls are just about average for number of dog bites, and believe it or not the lovable Labrador Retriever gives the most bites per year.

Pits tend to be animal aggressive but despite what the media may have you believe they are not born killers. Human aggression is a completely separate trait from aggression toward other dogs or other animals. Dog aggression is a very common trait in pit bulls. In contrast human aggression is not. In both cases the reason is a result of breeding and training.

One of the most important things to consider before you buy a pit bull is the history of the breeder as well as how much time you have to care for the dog.

This is not a breed for couch potato’s; these dogs need a good amount of exercise. Training, love, and proper care are the keys to success with this very athletic breed.

Pit bulls are characterized by their short stocky but strong bodies. American bulldogs are larger and have a higher working drive where as pit bulls are smaller and are more animal aggressive. Still saying that all pit bulls are mean and dangerous is an uneducated generalization of this breed.

Pit bulls were originally bred for blood sports, like Bull and Badger bating and dog fighting. Although aggression towards other animals would be a desirable trait for these sports, the dog’s handlers needed to be able to reach in and separate their dogs to administer some first aid so they could continue to tear each other apart, if that makes any sense.

Because of the dog handlers need to interact with these powerful animals these fighters had to be bred to be human friendly. This is why a pit bull is a poor choice for a guard dog. They instinctively like people.

Blue pit bulls have become very much in demand and are currently the favorite color.

Most of these dogs are very intelligent, tenacious, and yes fearless. They have become the villain of choice today when it comes to viscous dog attacks, some of which are deserved.

What I have learned is that pit bulls are not born mean.

There are two things that make these dogs dangerous…

1. Ignorance

2. Bad owners.

There are currently a number of cities around the US that have or are looking to band pit bulls. But what will this accomplish?

Assuming for a moment that you ban them, the same problem owners that now raise pit bulls for all the wrong reasons will just choose other breeds: let’s say Rottweiler to abuse and train to be aggressive.

Responsible ownership and stricter breeding regulations is the only real way to address the issue of dangerous and aggressive dogs.

Good Dog Ginger is dead.

She died as she had lived for 16 years – quietly under a bush without trouble to anybody.

We wrapped her in the old blanket she slept on by the back door in preference to the heated kennel she disdained except on the coldest nights. We buried her with tears in the woods she loved so well.

Ginger was an “outdoor” dog attuned to the cycles of nature. In winter, she grew thick fur that enabled her to sleep comfortably on the snow. In the spring, she shed her pelt and would lie patiently to let you pick loose fur from her coat. Summer was a time to sit waist deep in the little spring-fed pond stocked with blue-gills and other strange wanderings. Fall was her best season, a time to roll in dry leaves and dig for moles in the garden.

She was not a smart dog, having mastered only one trick. That was to “speak” for a tasty morsel. Perhaps she was too smart to perform for strange human whims.

Ginger earned her keep by a never-failing wag of the tail when you came home and ready companionship for any adventure.

As a guard dog, she was temperamentally selective. She fraternized with the cat next door, but drove off all other animals daring to venture on her turf. She kept the gas man at bay, but invited strangers to make themselves at home.

Ginger particularly liked children, seemingly believing herself to be one. Touch football was her favorite game, even when she became stiff and half blind.

Her long suit was love. She sensed your moods and had a little lick of the hand when you were downcast.

Surely gentle Ginger romps with kids, chases rabbits and guards the pearly gates in some canine Valhalla as she did in life.

Ginger’s ability to comprehend the thoughts and words of humans she loved astonished us. She was proof that dogs do think and feel a wide range of emotions. She reminded me of Speedy.

Speedy was a dog who became famous in Charlotte County, Florida, for an act of compassion and rationalism worthy of the most enlightened human.

As a puppy, Speedy was purchased by Earnest Lowe, for 50 cents, mostly to save him from being destroyed with the rest of an unwanted litter. Speedy was short on pedigree, but long on amiable disposition.

He was a yard dog who slept under the front porch and pretty much fended for himself except for an occasional handout of kitchen scraps.

When a neighbor moved away and abandoned a little dog named Suzy, Speedy took her into his domain. For nearly a year, they roamed and hunted together.

One day, while miles away with Speedy, Suzy caught her leg in a hog fence and couldn’t free it. In her frantic attempts to get loose she tore the flesh to the bone.

Speedy, equally distressed, was faced with a problem nature had not equipped him to handle. Nevertheless, he set about gnawing through a four-inch fence post, hoping thereby to free his little friend. But the wire still held Suzy fast, her leg about her head.

Then Speedy deduced a plan to relieve Suzy’s pain. He scratched up dirt and built a large mound on which Suzy could lie and ease the excoriating pressure. It may have taken him many hours.

At a lodge near by, guests heard a dog howling off in the distance. On the second day, one of the lodge employees decided to investigate, “Sounds like a dog in trouble.”

Finally he found Suzy, near death, and Speeding standing guard, still howling for help. He crouched and whined as the rescuer approached. He hadn’t meant to cause trouble.

The Good Samaritan cut Suzy loose and brought the two animals food and water. They ate and drank then started for home, Suzy dragging her pain-wracked body and mangled foot. Speedy led the way slowly, coming back often to encourage her.

Eventually they made their way back to the front porch they knew as home. Suzy, however, suffered from infection that had taken hold as she lay untold days and nights on that mound scraped up by Speedy.

To put Suzy out of her misery, Lowe shot her. Speedy appeared to be astonished and shocked that his human would kill his friend after all the travail they had gone through.

Speedy retreated under the porch and did not come out for several days.

Soon the newspapers heard about Speedy and his remarkable efforts to save Suzy. Photographers and reporters came. Lowe managed to coax Speedy out from under the porch, but the forlorn dog came out hesitantly, wagging his tail tucked between his legs nervously. What had he done now?

Before long other strange humans came around to pat Speedy on the head and bring him gifts. He got a ceramic dish filled with doggy tid bits from the lodge employees. The county commissioners gave him a brass studded leather collar with tag number 1. The Punta Gorda council proclaimed him dog-citizen of the year.

Dr. J. B. Rhine, director of parapsychology for Duke University, documented Speedy’s deed and opened a new project to study the reasoning powers of dogs. The national magazine “Dog World”, usually devoted to pedigreed animals, gave Speedy its Canine of Distinction award.

Speedy appreciated it all. He wagged his tail and licked the hands of the dignitaries who came to his front porch. But a far-away look in his eyes seemed to say, “Gee, wouldn’t it be great if Suzy were here too?”

The adulation was short lived. The dog that amazed psychologists and commanded the admiration of well wishers for his human-like compassion and reasoning ability, fell victim to a depraved human – a dog poisoner.

They buried Speedy in Lowe’s back yard, along side Suzy – together again for eternity.

January 14, 1982

Click here to see this article on Lindsey Williams’s website

INTRODUCTION:

Nitrogen is an element vital to all life processes on Earth. Nitrogen is very important in our biosphere, where nitrogen comprises 78% of the atmosphere, and is part of every living tissue. It is a component of amino acids, proteins and nucleic acids. With the exception of carbon, nitrogen is the most universal element of life. Life could not exist without nitrogen. Nitrogen is essential for organic development; nitrogenous compounds are also required by some organisms for metabolic functions and respiration.

All living organisms, from fish to plants, have great quantities of assimilated nitrogen in their tissues. Nitrogen is a fundamental ingredient for the formation of proteins and nucleic acids. Every organism you place in your aquarium adds nitrogen; from fish to coral, to live rock, to plants. The introduction of food also adds nitrogen. Dead or alive, they are organic masses, and possess the same nitrogenous attributes as the fish, plants, invertebrates you added to your aquarium. Inorganic nitrogen is added two ways: the atmosphere and new water. Atmospheric nitrogen (N2) is incorporated into our aquarium water by way of nitrogen fixing bacteria and by cyanobacteria as ammonia (NH3). Inorganic nitrogenous compounds from our tap or well water also enter our aquarium, often as Nitrates or Nitrates. Reverse Osmosis can remove much of this.

NITRIFICATION:

When an organism dies, nitrogen is moved from plant or animal into the inorganic chemical ammonia by the process of bacterial decay. Ammonia is also produced by bacteria in the breakdown of protein. This process is called Mineralization and is the end result of the metabolism of food. However, ammonia is produced from both metabolism and mineralization. The decomposition (mineralization) process produces large quantities of ammonia (NH3) through the process of ammoniafication. Heterotrophic microbes utilize the organic compounds of decomposing matter as their carbon source. Ammonia (NH3) is the byproduct of this consumption. Ammonia, in its neutral state, exists as ammonium (NH4+).

Ammonia (NH4) is assimilated in more than one way. Plants (such as Hornwort) and algae can assimilate ammonia and ammonium directly for the biosynthesis. The remaining bulk of decomposed byproducts are utilized by bacteria in a process called nitrification. Ammonia does not last long in a healthy aquarium environment, fortunately. Nitrifying bacteria such as Nitrosomonas quickly break down ammonia into less toxic Nitrite (NO2). During this process, specific species of nitrifying bacteria strip the ammonium of its hydrogen molecules as an energy source. Oxygen molecules are then affixed to the stripped nitrogen, forming the oxide nitrite (NO2). Another group of bacteria (Nitrobacter ) utilize the enzyme nitrite oxidase that is then responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate (NO3). This nitrate can either be used by plants as a nutrient source, or can be further broken down into nitrogen gas (N2) through the activity of anaerobic bacteria such as Pseudomonas .

It should be noted, that without oxygen (nitrification is an oxidative process), none of this process can take place. It should also be noted that in recent studies the Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter responsible Freshwater nitrification are NOT the same in saltwater.

BIOFILTRATION:

Nature can pack a lot of bacteria into small places, which is to the advantage of the aquarist. For bacterial growth, all that is required is ammonia and oxygenated water. This is the beginning of the nitrogen process and the growth of bacterial colonies. Remember you need oxygen and a lot of surface area for bacterial colonies. Wet/dry filters, sponge filters, ceramic media, and loosely packed upper layers of gravel are all sources for bacterial accumulation. If there is not adequate surface area in oxygen areas of the filter media or gravel, nitrification will be poor. Water will follow the path of least resistance, so if your filter or gravel has a build-up of non-nitrifying bacterial slime or is packed to tightly, nitrification will not be achieved. Sponge Filters or Pre-Filters are an inexpensive filter medium for colonies of nitrifying bacteria. Wet/dry filters and live rock (in Marine Aquariums) are excellent sources of bio filtration in larger aquaria. Bio-Wheels are very popular, but in my tests in my maintenance business they are VASTLY overrated. They tend to accumulate hard water deposits and stop and even when they are working my tests have shown little difference in aquariums when they are removed as compared to sponge filters or wet/dry filters. Canister filters are also good sources for nitrification as long as the proper media is used (such as ceramic rings) and the media is not packed too tight and is rinsed regularly.

DENITRIFICATION:

Is the process of converting Nitrates (NO3) in to Nitrogen (N2), which is dispersed into the atmosphere. This process can take place in an environment without oxygen by anaerobic bacteria. This process is more common in Marine aquaria and takes place in fine #00 sand, , live rock, or “aquarium mud”. In freshwater aquariums this process often produces deadly Hydrogen Sulfide, but by maintaining an oxygen level above 1 ppm, this can be avoided. Plants roots are great for maintaining this balance of oxygen in the gravel for proper Nitrate removal A thicker layer of coarse gravel utilizing a “void space” called a plenum is often used for Nitrate removal in Saltwater and even freshwater aquariums. These are not to be confused with under gravel filters.

SUMMARY OF LEVELS;

In healthy aquarium ammonia and nitrites should be at 0 ppm In a healthy freshwater aquarium Nitrates should be 15-50 ppm (below 15 ppm is not healthy for planted freshwater aquariums). In a healthy Saltwater fish aquarium nitrates should be below 40 ppm. In a healthy Marine Reef aquarium nitrates should be below 20 ppm (or even less).

AQUARIUM CYCLING:

These major additional benefits result from the constant removal of Nitrate by bacterial action in the plenum. My preferred cycling method (it was not in one of the links) is to transfer filter media (sponges work best) from an established aquarium along with some gravel, then introduce the fish SLOWLY starting in a day or two. The method of adding “aged” media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem. To prevent this transfer of disease pathogens and parasites, only use a media source where no new fish have been added in 30 days, ALL water parameters are good, and if possible has UV Sterilization (although not necessary). Also keep in mind that many pathogens such as pseudomonas are usually present in a healthy aquarium, but when fish are stressed, the fish are in poor health due to poor feeding and lack of proper minerals, and/or water conditions are less than desirable- these pathogens will be opportunistic and cause a disease in the fish. We used this method for our Aquarium Maintenance route for years and never lost a fish to Ammonia or nitrite poisoning, and disease transfer was minimal.

There are many products for cycling available too, but most in my opinion do not work well (although properly cared for BioSpira is effective).

Another method is fishless cycling where un-scented pure ammonia is poured into the aquarium (3-5 drops per gallon pure ammonia) so as to bring your ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. Then it takes about 3-8 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. Although this method is growing in popularity, I do not recommend it, not because it does not work (it does), but because human nature is to want to add fish sooner than the 3-8 weeks it takes for this method.

Another method is the gradual addition of fish food to an otherwise empty aquarium (no fish). This can be a very effective means of cycling that is preferred by many experienced aquarists. The method of adding “aged” media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.