Pets

You’ve heard about dog parks from your friends, family and even complete strangers. It’s somewhere you can take your best friend so he can frolic happily with other dogs, getting exercise and socialization with members of the canine family. But what do you need to know before you pack up your doggie for a fun filled day? Your best friend can have a great time if you are willing to follow some general, and common sense rules.

1. If your dog has a history of aggression against other dogs or people, do not take him to a dog park. You are just asking for trouble, not to mention putting other people and pets in danger. An aggressive dog isn’t controllable in those conditions and you are financially liable for any damages your dog does as a result of his actions.

2. Make sure all of your dog’s vaccinations are up to date. Many dog diseases are transmittable by drool, bites, and even feces. Vaccines protect your dog, and other dogs, from potentially deadly and costly illness. Also, all dog parks require canine visitors to have their shots. Bring a copy of your vet’s bill showing your dog has had his shots with you just in case an animal control officer asks for proof of vaccinations.

3. Get your dog licensed per the requirements of your city or state, even if you disagree with the law. Dog parks are monitored by animal control and many jurisdictions will ticket you for not having your dog licensed.

4. Have a voice controlled dog. This means you should be able to get your dog to obey you with only your voice. Your dog should come when called the first time, and stay if you tell him to. If your dog cannot do this, then you should keep him on a leash while he is at the dog park.

5. You must keep your dog in sight the whole time he is at the park. A dog out of sight is a dog not under your control. Also, have your dog’s leash in your hand at all times and be ready to retrieve your dog if issues arise between him and another dog or person.

6. If you have an unspayed female dog, do not take her to the park while she is in heat. This could cause male dogs to develop aggressive tendencies where there might not have been any before. Not to mention the possibility of unwanted puppies in your future if one of the male dogs isn’t neutered.

7. For the safety of all the dogs at the park, do not use choke, prong, or spike collars. These kinds of collars can result in injuries to the wearer, other dogs and even people. Choke collars can get hung up, possibly strangling your dog. Some dogs like to softly bite the back of another dog’s neck while playing. Prong collars could be forced into your dog’s throat during this kind of activity while a spike collar could harm the other dog. Remove them before entering the park.

8. Do not bring food, other than small training treats, to the park. Keep these treats inaccessible to the all of the dogs there. Never offer food to a strange dog without first asking the owner if the dog is allowed to have a treat. Most importantly, do not bring people food to a dog park. Many things we eat are not good for our four-legged friends.

9. Clean up your dog’s feces and dispose of it properly. It’s also a nice thing to pick up poop you find that other owners might have missed. You will no doubt miss some of the piles your dog has left at times and if everyone works together, the dog park you go to will be a cleaner place for your friend to play. Also, fill in any holes your dog might dig in the park. This is a safety issue, not only for humans but for all of the furry friends who use the park.

10. Don’t bring young children to the dog park with you. Children tend to be loud and active, and can scare a normally friendly dog into aggression. Also, it’s nearly impossible for a dog owner to keep visual and voice control over his pet if he’s constantly supervising a child as well.

Dog parks can be a fun experience for you and your four-legged friend. By following some simple rules, and using your own common sense, both of you can have a great time at a dog park.

The West Highland White Terrier is a hardy, happy little terrier that love the companionship of people. They are very good looking and make good watch dogs. They can get along with other pets, especially if socialized when young. They have been known to chase cats as a sport. They are generally very good with children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male is 10 to 12 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 15 to 22 pounds. The female ranges from 9 to 11 inches to the withers and 13 to 16 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the West Highland White Terrier is no exception. Be on the look out for skin allergies, progressive neurological disorders and tear duct problems. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

*Grooming. They have a double coat. The inner coat is soft and fluffy. The outer coat is white, straight and hard hair. This is a breed that needs to be professionally groomed regularly. She should also be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

*Life Span. The West Highland White Terrier can live around 15 or more years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

*History. The West Highland White Terrier comes from Scotland where they were raised to hunt vermin. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1908.

Some Registries:

* West Highland White Terrier Club of America

*UKC United Kennel Club

*NKC National Kennel Club

*CKC Continental Kennel Club

*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.

*AKC American Kennel Club

*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale

*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club

*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain

*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club

*ACR = American Canine Registry

Litter Size: 2 to 5 West Highland White Terrier puppies

Category: Terrier

Terms To Describe: Alert, friendly, reliable, happy, balanced, hardy, self-esteem, strength, affectionate

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Makes a good watch dog.

Sheds almost no hair.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Makes a poor guard dog.

They may dig.

They may bark plenty.

*Other Names Known By: Toseneath Terrier, Poltalloch Terrier

*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

The most common iguana is the green iguana and is easily recognized with its bright green color. Like most iguanas it also contains the traditional spikes running down the centre of its back. Most of you will know that iguanas are masters of camouflage and have the ability to change color to fit their surroundings. This is their only defense against some of their predators and they use quite effectively.

There are in fact 8 types of iguanas in total. They include the Galapagos marine iguana, the Fiji banded iguana, the land iguana, ground or rock iguanas, the desert iguana, the common green iguana, the rock dwelling iguana and the spiny-tailed iguana. Many of these are of course protected species as their numbers have quickly been dropping over the period of the last century, mainly due to the destruction of their natural habitats. ie. Rainforests.

Of course as you may well know, iguanas are also commonly kept as pets and are one of the most unusual things you might see lazing around in someone’s house. The thing that attracts most people to keeping an iguana as a pet is the fact they can be trained to live outside of a cage unlike some other reptiles such as snakes and tortoises.

Generally they are one of the easiest pets to take care of as they are very clean and extremely independent. They require small amounts of food and are prone to very few diseases. If there is one thing to look out for it is the fact that like most other reptiles they carry salmonella in their digestive tract that may cause disease. Therefore it is recommended that you wash your hands after you have come in contact with one.

With that said however there is a very small chance that you will contract anything too nasty and what difference is it from owning a dog or a cat, most pets carry disease and it’s recommended that you wash yourself after coming into contact with most animals. If you think an iguana would be perfect for you, then you can buy one from most local pet stores.

If you don’t want to buy your iguana from the local pet store then you have another option. You can look for breeder in your area. This is actually a better idea as most pet stores sell iguanas that a cross breeds and usually don’t live for as long.

First of all, you must understand that Pekingese are not dogs! They are a combination of part human, part aristocrat, perpetual child, and part cat. There is no other breed like them.

You must also understand that if your idea of a pet dog is one who will sit adoringly at your feet (or in your lap), wait to jump at any command, be available to your every beck and call, the Pekingese is not for you. In most cases, Pekingese will slowly work their way into your home and before you know it YOU will be at THEIR beck and call. They will be extremely obedient—not to please you but only because they CHOOSE to please you. They will come and go as they please because that is what pleases them. They are not being truly disobedient but do so because they can see no reason to do otherwise. After all, they are special, aren’t they?

The Pekingese originated in China over 2000 years ago. Their only function was to carry the robes of the Chinese Imperial Court . Ownership of this dog was prohibited to any except royalty. During the Great China War of 1860, Franco-British forces marched on Peking . The invaders looted the summer place, and the Western world made its first acquaintance with the little Lion Dog of Peking . Five of these little dogs were found in the apartment of the Emperor’s aunt, who had delayed her flight too long and committed suicide when the Palace gates were stormed.

These five little creatures endeared themselves to their captors, who carried them back to England . One was presented to Queen Victoria and was named “Looty”. She lived a life of luxury for ten years in Windsor Palace until her death in 1872. All modern day Pekingese have descended from these five dogs. All the others were slaughtered so that no one would lay eyes on them, for to do so in China brought immediate and unmerciful death.

This background give you some idea of why Pekingese think they are a little bit better than anyone or anything else! It has been so bred into them that they continue this attitude today. So, if you want a whimsical personality, take delight in their independence, accept the fact that they are the bosses, then a Pekingese is the dog for you.

You are no doubt enthralled by the abundance of coat. While very eye-catching, you will pay the price to keep the glamour. If you are not prepared to groom at least once or twice a week, or have it professionally done, then this breed is not for you. The good thing is that they require very little trimming. The hair on the bottom of the feet covering the pads should be kept short. Also, both the male and female should have the hair neatly trimmed around the sheath of the male and the vulva of the female. Scissoring is not necessary on any other part of the coat unless you decide the coat is just too much to handle.

There are several cute cuts that can be done by a professional and which will still leave the dog looking like a Pekingese. I do not recommend that it should be totally shaved. Of coarse, as in all coated breeds, the length and quality of the coat will vary. If you buy from a breeder who is primarily producing show quality puppies, your puppy will have a lot of coat. I certainly recommend that you buy from this type of breeder. Puppies purchased from a pet store are of questionable parentage and will not mature to look like the Pekingese you see in the show ring. By the age of nine or ten months you should have some indication of what the coat will be like.

Generally speaking, Pekingese are amiable creatures but will not take kindly to being badgered by children. They are not mean by nature but will eventually retaliate if someone continues to abuse them. If there are small children in the family the Pekingese should have a place of their own, such as a crate, to escape to. Cats and Pekingese seem to have an affinity for each other and will probably become very good friends. It is not recommended that you have an aggressive dog in the same household as Pekingese will not back down, so matter the size or strength of the other animal.

Pekingese make good house pets, whereby they will have a domain to rule. Their favorite spot will probably be where you don’t want them, but you will put up with their wishes because you love and admire them. They need daily exercise but you shouldn’t expect them to be boundary trained so you will need a dog proof fence for them. They are easily trained to the leash and enjoy daily walks. The Pekingese is quite muscular and solidly built with most of their weight concentrated in the front quarters. For this reason, stairs should be avoided, and they should not be allowed to jump from high places such as the couch or bed. Since they are a long-backed dog, landing from a height could cause grave problems.

Pekingese are very tolerant of cold and will often prefer to be outdoors when you think they should be indoors. However, they are intolerant of heat and you must guard against them becoming over-heated during hot weather. Be sure they have plenty of fresh water and a cool place to lie. A basement is ideal, but they do not want to be away from the family. They love to lie on a stone hearth, a cool linoleum floor, or in front of a large floor fan. If you have a pool or pond in your yard, guard your Pekingese carefully!! They are not good swimmers and once their coat becomes saturated with water they will surely sink and drown.

Pekingese are really quite free of hereditary problems and if you buy from a reputable breeder should live a long healthy life of from ten to eighteen years. However, since this is a flat-faced breed you must guard against injury to the eyes. Because they have no snout to protect the eyes, they can be more easily injured than the eyes of some other breeds. “Peke proof” your yard. That means no long grass, rose bushes, and low tree branches—anything sharp they could bump into. Clean the eyes daily with a cotton ball and look for anything out of the ordinary. The first sign of injury is often watering or blinking.

If not noticed immediately the eye will turn a light blue and you may see a small indentation called an ulcer on the eyeball. Prompt veterinary attention should be sought so you can properly medicate it. I recommend that you always have a tube of chloramphenicol eye ointment on hand—injuries have a habit of happening on Sundays and holidays! Remember, the best remedy is prevention.

Welcome to the PEKINGESE ADDICTION SOCIETY! I hope you are prepared for a long and enjoyable relationship of being owned by your new pet. Your Pekingese will offer you many hours and years of enjoyment. There is NO other dog like them! If you have any questions, or need further information, please call me at any time. I’m always available to talk Pekingese.

Many people wouldn’t dream of traveling or moving to Mexico without the family pet. After all, it’s a member of the family too! You can bring your pet or pets with you, but you must do some planning before hand.

If you want to bring your pet to Mexico, you’ll need two pieces of paper. The first is a vaccination certificate to ensure your pet has been vaccinated against rabies, hepatitis, pip and leptospirosis. The second is an office health certificate that must be issued by a veterinarian no more than 72 hours before entering Mexico. Your professional Mexico real estate agent can give you more information.

You can bring two large pets (dog or cat) with you. It is possible to bring more, but you must obtain permission from the Mexican consulate. You’ll need to contact the one nearest you. There is no quarantine period for pets entering Mexico. Make sure to check with the airlines if you’re flying into Mexico. Often airlines have restrictions on size, weight, type of carrier, etc. Be sure to contact your airline and plan ahead.

Owning a pet in Mexico is much the same as owning a pet in any other country. Most dog owners in Mexico have their domestic help care for their dog. You’ll seldom see an owner out walking their dog. Make sure your dog’s caregiver is aware of your dog’s exercise and feeding schedules. Also make sure your dog is comfortable with its caregiver.

Stray dogs and cats are common in Mexico and they carry many diseases. To protect your dog or cat make sure they have the right vaccinations and they are administered correctly. It’s also important to treat your pets for parasites. Veterinarians abound in Mexico and they do make house calls. Again, ask your local professional Mexico real estate agent for recommendations or referrals.

When your pet leaves Mexico, the same documents are required as when they entered. You’ll need a certificate of vaccination and a certificate of health from a veterinarian. You will also need to get an export license in order for your dog or cat to leave the country. Your pet will undergo a visual inspection and there is no cost for this license.

While the process may seem drawn out, it is in place to protect all pets – in and out of Mexico. For those who would never consider moving without their pet, it just requires a bit of pre-planning and some local information from your Mexico real estate agent.

I don’t know how you feel carrying an extra 10 pounds around, but I usually feel bloated, sluggish and downright grumpy. So just imagine how Fido feels when he’s packing extra pounds!

As it turns out, my dog and I bulked up together – so when it was time to slim back down to my skinny jeans and start feeling better about, well, everything, I started looking for ways to get my fat – not fluffy – pooch back down to a healthy size. And cruising around online is where I found my answers! (Aren’t the answers to all of life’s questions on the Web, anyway?!?)

Being a good dog owner, I took my furry friend to the vet before adjusting his diet or exercise routine – just in case he wasn’t packing on sympathy weight and was really facing some health problems. As I suspected, he received a clean bill of health – and I got some tips from my vet on how to transform my pup’s body.

According to my vet, I should:

• Reduce his caloric intake by 25% over a long period of time.

• Front-load his caloric intake by giving him more food in the morning than at night.

• Watch his weight loss – if he’s losing more than 5% to 8% of his starting weight a month, take him back to the vet immediately!

Cruising online for other ways to help my plump pooch shed some pounds, I also stumbled across an article on PETCO’s site that had some great ideas, including:

• Pumping up play time with longer walks and varied activities to keep you both interested.

• Very slowly introducing your dog to reduced-calorie or higher-fiber foods

• Eliminating snacks and table scraps from his diet – even if they’re seemingly healthy

Following these tips, my pooch and I have shed our excess pounds and are running, jumping and playing more than ever. Of course, we still like the occasional treats to reward ourselves for good behavior, but now we both get healthier treats – like frozen yogurt (for me) and all-natural jerky for her.

We’re actually looking so good that we’ve even got a double date at the dog park this afternoon!

This year we decided to try ultrasound on some of the bulls in bull test. Most other breeds such as the Hereford, Angus, Shorthorn and Charlois have been using ultra sound for up to 5 years. We have always considered Murray Greys to be the best at marbling and passing along those genetics but other than our numerous carcass wins at various carcass competitions, we had no other source of carcass grading. When talking to the ultra sound technicians as well as some of the herford breeders there were several things that were impressed upon us.

1. The results are relative.

2. The results are genetic in that certain families will have higher marbling than others.

3. Heifers should be done at about 1 year of age. Age should be kept constant as it affects results and ones with low results can be culled from the herd.

4. Relative EPD’s can be extrapolated from the results but must be done from the states. This involves some extra costs and the animal must have a strip shaved in it’s side.

The accuracy of the ultrasound depends upon the technician doing the readings. Our results were done by Rod Wendorff and Doug Ralph both certified technicians. The accuracy is high enough that bulls selected based on ultrasound results will result in a positive genetic change in progeny carcass traits. Heritability for carcass traits are moderate to high, being slightly higher than birth weights, weaning weights, and yearling weights.

It is a well know fact that marbling is the best indicator of just how tasty the beef will be. Research shows that meat AAA and above produces the most satisfied consumers. As marbling increases so does the juiciness, flavor and the tenderness, so why not use all means available to better production from the ranch.

So to understand the ultra sound results.

Marbling

3.00 – 3.99…………..Single A……………..Standard

4.00 – 4.99…………..Double AA…….…….Select

Above 5.00………….Triple AAA…….…….Choice

Remember that the age of the animal should be taken into consideration. A high AA that will be fed for an additional 90-100 days will likely result in a AAA carcass. Keeping in mind that some genetics may never reach AAA.

Back Fat MM

The fat measurement gives an indication of the bulls fleshing ability. Fat bulls have less lean meat/muscle in the carcass. Calves from a bull with very little fat may finish too slowly. Bulls with excessive fat may suffer reduced fertility. Back fat is also related to a female’s ability to produce milk, rebreed, reach early puberty and maintain a short calving interval.

Rib Eye Area (REA IN2)

The Rib Eye is the largest muscle in the body at birth so the REA gives an indication of overall carcass muscling. This is measured in inches. Big is good but read on…..

Adjusted REA IN2/100 lbs

The largest rib eye area may belong to the largest bull. Adjusting the REA to 100 lbs body weight helps determine which bulls are more muscular and which bulls are simply heavier.

Cutability (%LMY)

Cutability is the percentage lean meat yield in the carcass. Back fat will reduce yield by 7 to 8 times what REA will increase the yield.

So to sum it all up.

• It is desirable to have an animal that has high marbling, large rib eye and high percentage lean meat yield.

• Remember that moderation and balance are key ingredients of a successful breeding program.

• Knowing what cow families produce the best marbling will only increase your yield and herd performance.

Eating is one of the most primal activities for dogs. They love it, and they have respect for whoever gives them food (the leader in the pack). You can use your “power” of being pack leader to enhance your dog training efforts — every day.

The following suggestions will help you establish your role as pack leader and reinforce dog obedience, deferment to your leadership, dog training techniques, and overall attitude and disposition (yours and your dogs).

1. CONSISTENCY

A good habit to have in feeding your dog is consistency. Dogs love routine and food is a very important subject to them.

For example, feed your dog at approximately the same time(s) each day (some modification is fine for weekly schedule changes.) If feeding two times a day, pick two windows of time that you can be consistent with, for example, between 7:00 and 8:00 am and then again between 5:00 and 6:00 pm.

Having a window of time helps prevent anxiety in a dog expecting to be fed at a specific time each day (5:15 pm — yes, dogs can zero in on a specific time of day like 5:15).

This is a very real concern for dogs and some dogs can fall apart emotionally and physically if they are expecting food at that time and don’t get it. Ever hear of the dog that is panting and spastic and throwing up or having diarrhea? This dog is anxious. Setting a window of time and sticking to it will help your dog remain calm. Practice the same routine every day.

2. NO RUNNING BUFFET

A big mistake is to offer up the running buffet, where food is available around the clock. This is actually a pretty common feeding program in many homes because it’s simple for the humans — add food as needed.

So why not do this? Because it leads to an obese, lazy dog who doesn’t listen to your commands, respect your leadership position or adhere to rules you’ve set forth in your dog training.

3. MEALTIME IS DOG TRAINING TIME

Wonderful things happen at mealtime — for you and Fido. You get the opportunity to have your dog perform (reinforcing all that dog training you’ve done) for his meal. This could be sit, down, come, place.

So what, you say? Well, this is the easiest way you have of getting your dog’s affirmation of you being the leader and reinforcing dog training. If you aren’t the leader, guess who is. It will be the demanding, obnoxious dog bossing you around for a meal.

What exactly does it look like? Hold the food bowl in your hand. Your dog may be spastic, jumping, yipping, and pawing at you for the food. This is another dog training opportunity for you — teaching him to be calmer at mealtimes.

State your command once and wait (good to start with a sit, which is usually the easiest). Your dog sits and the bowl of food goes to the floor with praise for a good sit and a release “OK” that they can move to get the food.

When your dog complies with your command, he has just deferred to your leadership in the pack. (When beginning this program, you may need to help your dog with completing his command and praise warmly and then give food.)

Once your dog has the program down, you can introduce other feeders such as spouse, responsible children, etc to gently let your four-footed family member know her position in the pack.

CONCLUSION

By changing your dog’s feeding routine, you change so much more. You get to reinforce all the dog training and dog obedience you’ve worked so hard on — and it feels effortless. You get increased respect from your dog for providing the important commodity of food and for being a consistent provider. The more you establish yourself as leader of the pack, the more your dog will want to please you and dog training will be a snap.

Handler Attention - If you want hundred per cent attention from your dog, you must be prepared to give this to him during training. He is entitled to your full attention - any failure on your part will result in failure on his. Therefore, sessions should be short, but intensive whilst they last.

Voice Control - Probably the most important thing for a handler to learn is how to use his or her voice to obtain the right response from the dog during training. Any sharpness used to get his attention must be short and snappy with an immediate softening of tone afterwards and with the recall an excited tone to encourage the dog to come in. A sharp tone of voice should only be used to get the dog’s attention and at no other time. If this sharpness of tone is not successful on this first call then your training is not soundly based. Continual shouting is of little value in successful dog training.

Body and Hand control - It can be of great value to use body and hand movements as signals, but you must be conscious of their useful application. The proper and natural use of signals will help your dog, so long as you know you are using them. You can later minimise these signals or cut them out when no longer needed. Hand and arm signals in particular can be used to reinforce acts of encouragement.

Use of Food as Reward - Titbits of food should never be used in place of other forms of reward or encouragement, but rather to back up or reinforce encouragement and praise. The correct use of food can have a dramatic effect on the progress of training. To obtain the best results in training, a dog should never be fed before a training session - it is much easier to train a hungry dog. A training session just before feeding time where titbits are used to reinforce praise and encouragement can prove to be very effective. It should be noted that training without titbits can restrict the effectiveness of repeating that part of an exercise to about three to five tries before moving to another part. After this, a dog normally loses his edge and the handler wonders why performance deteriorates. However, the use of titbits can prolong a training session for twenty to thirty repeats with a hungry dog. The idea is to get the right balance and really understand your dog’s limitations.

Dogs can be and are trained very effectively without ever using a titbit, but, as an aid, the use of food can speed up and help consolidate on the elements being trained. Also, the use of titbits can help to keep the handler in a better frame of mind. What handler can be coarse and overbearing whilst giving his dog something to eat? It just would not make sense.

Your dog is fat. OK, possibly not.

But there’s a very good chance he or she is, and you don’t even know it.

Statistics vary, but veterinarians report that as many as 25 - 44% of all dogs are overweight, and that obesity is the number-one canine health disorder. Obesity is defined as weighing over 15% more than the standard accepted weight for the dog’s height.

With nearly half of our dogs weighing in on the heavy side, it’s no surprise, then, that obesity-related conditions are on the rise within the pet population. These conditions include diabetes mellitus and orthopedic, musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune and reproductive disorders. These can be devastating conditions for your dog to live with.

Doctors ascribe the rise in obesity to a combination of the general lack of fussiness of dogs, their natural gorging behavior, and insufficient exercise.

And since dogs don’t do their own grocery shopping or prepare their own meals, we must add to this a prevailing ignorance among their owners in providing a nutritious, well-balanced, calorie-controlled diet.

Do you know if your dog is fat or fit? Do you know her daily caloric requirements? Do you know what factors may mitigate those daily caloric requirements?

Did you know regular dog food is packed with sugar and fat to make the toxic crap they put in it palatable?

A healthy dog is ready to eat at any time. Some dogs quite literally can eat while flat on their side and more or less asleep. Therefore, it is pointless to use your dog’s begging behavior as any indicator of how much to feed him.

Knowing how many calories he needs and how that translates into food will help keep him trim and healthy. Energy needs for the dog change throughout his life, increasing the more active he becomes, and, as you might surmise, decreasing as the dog reaches his senior years.

Your vet will help you determine if your dog’s weight is on target, or if she is headed for fat city, and all diet-related considerations should definitely be discussed with your vet before introducing any major changes into your dog’s nutritional sphere. But, before your next office visit, you can do an assessment to determine (albeit imprecisely) your dog’s general body condition and weight.

Can the ribs be easily felt with slight fat cover, or are they difficult to feel under moderate or thick fat cover?

From the side view, do you see an abdominal tuck?

Is there thickening at the tail base?

From the overhead view, is there a well-proportioned waist?

Or, from the overhead view, does she have a marked hourglass shape? (an indicator of being underweight)

Or, from the overhead view, is the back slightly or markedly broadened at the waist? (indicators of being moderately to severely overweight)

Is your dog slow to rise or move around?

Is she reluctant to exercise, or does she tire easily with activity?

Individual metabolism, exercise, age, environment and overall health will determine what your dog really needs to remain lean and healthy. Since your dog can only have so many calories every day, it is important to pack lots of nutrition, bulk and appeal into those calories.

Our wildly popular Dog Food SECRETS™ information products can help you step-by-step overcome your nutritional naivete.

Embracing this information doesn’t mean you have to prepare every meal with a set of scales on the counter, no. Do it a few times and you can do it forever.

After you determine your dog’s caloric needs, the ideal solution to meet those needs is to prepare your dog’s food at home, where you can have total control over the caloric and nutritional content.

Our books can help you there, too — as it includes a collection of easy, healthful, natural and delicious recipes created with your dog’s palate and welfare in mind. In fact the Silver and Gold packages include over 200 easy-to-make healthy recipes.