Pets

Although many horsemen and trainers extol the virtues of the round pen, many horse owners still overlook just how powerful such a pen can be in developing or maintaining a relationship with a horse. This is a shame because it is truly what I call the Great Equalizer in a horse-human relationship. Perhaps that bears some clarification…

I’ve found many horse owners to be concerned about their physical strength as opposed to that of their horse. They fear they simply cannot firmly establish themselves as the alpha, or leader, of the relationship because the horse is so much stronger. Thus when their horse displays poor ground manners or commits an inappropriate action they are more prone to ignore it and hope it doesn’t develop into worse behaviors. After all, what choice do they have? The horse is just too strong.

The reality is that, except for the youngest of foals, a horse will always possess more raw strength than a human. Any attempts to overpower a horse with sheer strength are doomed to fail. Techniques such as raising your voice towards or slapping a misbehaving horse do not rely on strength – they are psychological. The horse does not want the conflict to escalate as it is uncertain exactly what your capabilities are, therefore it submits.

Of course there are exceptions, and truth be told such techniques are best used on already-trained horses or in situations where you cannot properly establish your authority due to lack of time or proper surroundings. The best way to instill respect and discipline into a naughty horse is by incorporating the Great Equalizer: the round pen.

Whereas many people view a round pen as a means for exercise (and it is true that it’s a great exercise tool), the true power behind the round pen is its ability to establish dominance in a completely non-forceful method. In the round pen, physical strength means very little. It is a quick and easy (as opposed to other methods) technique to make your alpha status known.

Allow me to share an example that will better illustrate why a round pen will serve you better than strength.

I once owned a willful young colt raised by a first-time mother, so unfortunately the mare wasn’t all that familiar with the need to discipline her colt. In fact although the colt was really quite a nice horse, he was unruly and tended to do whatever he wanted from day one. An experienced mare would not have permitted such antics, and had she “laid down the law” better from the first day the colt would likely have been a little less rambunctious.

Soon it came time to provide halter and lead training to this young upstart, and true to his form he made sure the task was trying. Although more than willing to walk with you, he felt there was little need to do so in an orderly fashion. If he “accidentally” bumped into you, or strayed so far from your side that you had to cling to the lead line with an iron grip, so be it. Snapping or jerking the lead line didn’t impress him much.

Even worse, as a colt develops into a mature stallion they often can become very “nippy.” This one was no different at first. Just as he did with his mother, he would sneak tiny bites and nips when you weren’t watching, and although there wasn’t mean intent behind them let’s face it – they hurt!

Anytime a horse strikes at you (and a nip should be considered a strike) it’s important that you retaliate with conviction so they think twice about doing so again. But when I would give this colt a fairly light slap he would almost smirk to himself and try to nip me again! Was he being mean-spirited? No! This colt grew up with no significant discipline from his mother and no fear of humans – we imprinted him from birth and thus he trusted us. Since he did not fear me, he thought I was engaging in some horseplay as any other colt would do.

A slap, as harsh as it sounds to us, is not always about force. It generally does not cause a horse much pain, but rather it is intended as a shock technique for a horse that already recognizes you as an alpha. Since this colt saw me as a playmate and equal, he possessed no fear of my slaps – my choice was to either escalate the physical force (which is generally not my first choice) or establish my dominance in a gentle way via the round pen.

Once I established that slaps or verbal growls would not have any effect on this colt, anytime he would nip at me or try my patience with his rebellious ways we would march straight to the round pen or enclosed paddock. While this colt found the notion amusing for the first five minutes or so, eventually the round pen will drain the “oats” from nearly any horse and he was no different.

With consistent round pen work, this colt soon learned that I wasn’t a simple playmate – I was his leader. Although we could still enjoy each other’s company, it had to be on terms that were agreeable to the both of us (no more black and blues!). Due to consistent round pen work, the leading, nipping and general disrespect issues became a thing of the past.

I hope my example of this young colt showed the folly of depending upon physical force to achieve your goals – “outgunning” a horse is not easy, practical or desirable. Never accept poor behavior and do not feel your authority is measured solely by your raw strength; both are mistakes that are all too commonly committed by horse owners. Instead consider the use of a round pen (or in a pinch you can use a longe line) and find out how easy training and discipline can be when using the Great Equalizer.

Do you really know all there is to know about your canine companion’s nutritional needs? Many pet owners think they’re doing what’s best for their dogs when it comes to food, but in reality they rely on pure instinct more than science. Nutrition isn’t a guessing game, even when it comes to your pooch. Think about it – if you were left to feed yourself based only on what you craved and had no knowledge of what your body needs to function, would you be eating 5 servings of fruit and veggies or would you head straight for the Ding Dong case at the market?

1. Cover all of the bases.

A dog’s diet can be as complex as any human’s (including yours!), and it’s absolutely essential that you, as an owner, hit all of the vital nutritional bases. A deficiency of certain vitamins and nutrients can lead to upset tummies, overly dry or oily skin, brittle bones, weight issues, and, in some of the worst cases, death. A balanced and proper diet is the building block of your dog’s overall health – if he doesn’t get the right blend of nutrients, the most impeccable care otherwise won’t mean a thing. But with the right diet, his defenses against disease and disorders are infinitely stronger than a dog whose owner hasn’t put much thought into an eating plan.

2. Mix it up!

For the most part, pre-packaged food will help you cover all of the major nutritional requirements a healthy, fairly young dog has. This where many owners trip up simply because of the ease of the decision. Most think that the major choice is between dry and moist food, when in reality the best diet you can provide your dog is one varied in ingredients, textures, and nutritional value. Dogs, of course, are carnivores, and that instinct remains in their blood to this day. They continue to hunt prey (poor Kitty), love sausage-flavored treats, and adore the great crunch they get when chowing down on a bone. Those varied elements should give you a little bit of insight into how diverse your dog’s diet can be.

3. Move beyond meat.

Building some portion of his diet from meat gives you many of the crucial nutrients he needs for energy and growth, but he also needs fiber and carbohydrates to aid in digestion and stability. You could throw down a bowl of dry food every day and maybe give him a “treat” of moist food once a month, but how would you like it if the tables were turned and he insisted on feeding you pancakes every day for the rest of your life? Not such a sunny outlook, is it?

4. Make it a real meal.

Listen, nobody ever said you had to rely on a bag or can of food to feed your dog. You cook for your family all the time. Doesn’t your dog deserve similar treatment? Most owners say they’d love to cook for their pups but just don’t know where to start, and that’s where I come in. Now you can help fulfill all of your dog’s nutritional needs as well as his taste desires with just one quick flip through my new book, 180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Recipes. I know, I know, you’re busy, and there’s barely time to cook your family a proper meal. That’s why you’ll love this book – in addition to covering all of the usual recipes like traditional dog chow and cookies, I’ve created several that are healthy and delicious enough for you, your dog, and your family. Being skeptical is natural; after all, I never dreamed I’d come up with recipes I could easily share with my dogs! But how can you pass up recipes like biscotti, muffins, omelettes, dinner mints, and even sushi?

5. Give him some green.

Your dog needs a well-balanced diet, and the best way to accomplish that is through a wide variety of ingredients. Did you know that many dogs love veggies? In fact, if your dog likes to nibble on grass, he may appreciate some of the veggie-oriented recipes in the cookbook. Give it a shot and see what you – and your dog – think. After all, the worst that could happen is an improvement in your pooch’s health!

The only set rule in feeding your pup is to make sure his meals satisfy the unique nutritional requirements any dog has. You don’t have to stick to the bag or the can, and you don’t have to spend hours slaving away in the kitchen. Making dishes for your dog can be a family event, and nothing expresses gratitude better than a big, sloppy, wet kiss. “180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Food Recipes” features a huge array of delectable treats made to please any pup… but you’ll be amazed at how many you can eat, too! It’s a great starting point for any well-rounded nutritional plan for your dog. You’ll both be happy you made the investment!

If it is a change in your dog’s normal behavior, it might be a bladder infection or some other medical problem, so check that with your vet first.

It’s rather common for older spayed bitches to start dribbling. This is easily fixed most of the time with doses of estrogen. In many cases, the doses can be tapered off after a few months. Some dogs require estrogen for the rest of their lives. Only small doses are needed, so it’s not that expensive to treat. Again check with your vet.

All dogs urinate, some more than others. Entire males will mark their territory by using urine.

Some dominant females will do the same. Castration certainly helps to slow down or even stops male dogs from marking their territory.

But this has to be done at an early age to avoid a habit formed condition. Dogs also mark trees, shrubs etc to communicate and mark their territory. If you walk your dog and you don’t want your dog to urinate on public icons or structures, then before the dog gets to these items call its name. This will bring the attention back onto you and reward the dog for returning.

If it does not respond to its name then tag the lead back and give a suitable command like ‘no’ or ‘attt’.

Important: To do the “Tag Back” on the lead it must be only to get the dogs attention and not used as a negative response. The idea is to keep the dogs attention to you.

Then you can walk the dog where it can urinate, like walk up to a tree or a telephone Pole. Give the dog a command like ‘letgo’ or ‘wee’ and praise the dog when it does. Don’t worry if you think your dog will only go when you give the command and that when you are not home the dog will burst…. it won’t.

As long as the dog has a lot of freedom when walking on the lead, let the dog relax and be a dog. Keeping a dog at the heel position all the time will create stress in the dog. Don’t allow your dog to urinate on everything its wants.

Complete article can be found at www.Here-Is-Your.Info/About/DogTraining

There are many things dogs can be trained to do but, of all the tasks a working dog can perform, search and rescue ranks the highest for needing qualified, professional trainers. A Search and Rescue (SAR) dog’s performance, quite literally, can determine life or death to a human in need.

As shocking as it may sound, there is no set of standards for rescue dog training. Subsequently, rescue clubs, teams, and individuals emerge as trainers, when, in fact, they may know little, or nothing at all, about training a SAR dog. Attending seminars and reading books on the subject are worthwhile endeavors, but they do not constitute being a SAR dog trainer. Sadly, in a large percentage of cases, this is an assumption not only made, but followed, and replicated. In some cases, those touting themselves as SAR dog trainers scarcely have enough knowledge to teach a dog simple parlor tricks, let alone promptly and accurately scenting or tracking skills, where a human life hangs in the balance.

Even when the topical qualifications are in place, this is no substitute for failing to research the validity of those qualifications. You will hear the term “qualified instructor” often from those with police/military backgrounds. While this sounds impressive, keep in mind that there is no “qualification” standard to begin with, so the very title is misleading. Further, there may be a very good reason that the individual is no longer training/handling outside of the police/military venues. That reason may be a desire for work in the private sector, or it could be indicative of poor performance.

Now, I’m not trying to paint a bleak picture; there are a number of incredible SAR dog trainers out there. All of these great instructors hold one thing in common: they can bear your scrutiny with flying colors. If you’re making the huge step towards training your dog for SAR, then you really need to make the right choices. Here are the top things to consider when choosing a SAR dog trainer:

1. Experience. There is no substitute and there is no better gauge of a trainer’s value. Look for trainers who have years of experience in a wide variety of disciplines, not just SAR. Demonstrated ability, in more than a single focus, means that the trainer will be able to administer a wide variety of training methods to accomplish the end goal. Other potential disciplines to look for include: agility, obedience, hunting, or herding. This experience is easily verified by titles such as: Companion Dog (CD, CDX) Agility Dog (AD, MACH, NATCH), Schutzhund (I, II, II) to name a few.

2. Actual SAR experience is a must. SAR dogs perform a number of tasks that your instructor MUST have real-world experience with. They need to be well-versed, from first-hand experience, on how lost or fleeing people will act, how a crime scene needs to be preserved in cadaver searches resulting from criminal acts, etc.

3. The trainer should be well-versed on all breeds and capable of assessing and advising on the limitations and capacity of that breed.

4. Separate marketing from proven performance. If your trainer is good, you can bet he or she will have references. Contact those agencies and inquire about the specific services the trainer was hired for and their thoughts regarding the trainer’s services. Just because they have a polished web site, well-designed brochures, etc., does not mean they’re the best pick, by default. In some cases, a smaller organization may actually yield better references.

The decision for you, and your dog, to become involved in SAR is a big one. Take the time to do your homework. Your success and enjoyment will not only be richer but it may, in fact, save a life!

Did you ever think it might be a two way street with your shih tzu. Sure he/she annoys you sometimes, but just think about the things that might be annoying your shih tzu. Because dogs can’t talk we usually have to make guesses about what they are thinking.

Just recently my Tessy had a litter of puppies. Early in the morning we received a call from a couple who had “just” lost their shih tzu. They were very upset and crying. This was about 6:00 a.m., I believe. Tessy had an available male that would fit this couple and so I was running about at this early morning hour getting the puppy ready for them to pick up. Suddenly I noticed Tessy giving me a very unusual kind of disgusting look. I felt like she was saying: “now just what do you think you are going to do with my boy?” “Whatever you are up to, Connie, I just don’t approve of it and I am very suspicious of your actions right now.” I just looked back at Tessy and said, “well Tessy, we can’t keep all of them.” Sometimes my girls do get upset at me when it is time to start placing their puppies. It is like they make me feel as if we should keep every one of their puppies and just live here as one big happy family. That is impossible. And I keep reminding them that this is just impossible. I keep a lot of our puppies just for that very reason. The moms enjoy them so much, I can’t stand to take all of them away from the mother. I notice also that the mothers are happier when they have at least one of their offspring with them at all times.

Humans are very inconsistent. I am inconsistent. Dogs do best with structure and consistency. The best way (and I don’t always do as I say) to avoid confusing your shih tzu is to set clear house rules from the beginning. So if you don’t want to do things that annoy your shih tzu, and you don’t want your shih tzu doing things annoy you, try to set some clear house rules with the entire family before the shih tzu arrvies. Be consistent and provide structure.

Some things you might want to address first are: Will the shih tzu be allowed on your furniture? Where will your shih tzu be sleeping? When and where will you feed your shih tzu. Where will the shih tzu use the bathroom (try to choose one spot and don’t change the spot). If you can get all those things straightened out with him in the beginning, you have solved several problems for yourself and your shih tzu.

Try to be aware of the things that annoy your shih tzu and if you can successfully fix those things you do to annoy him, you might be pleasantly surprised to find the shih tzu does fewer things to annoy you as well.

Dogs are believed to be descendants of wild wolves. They were the first wild animal to be tamed. Ancient man probably brought home cub wolves to raise as pets. The pet wolves were also useful in driving away bears and other wild animals. One of the oldest known breed of dogs is the Salukis, which were bred by Egyptians thousands of years ago as hunting dogs. Greyhounds and Dalmatians are also among the oldest breeds documented.

Over the centuries, people have found many ways for dogs to be useful. Dogs helped to pull loads, herd cattle and sheep, and guard their master and the master’s property. The Ancient Greeks developed tiny lap dogs, which were meant to be held in a lady’s lap to help keep her stomach warm. Bulldogs with huge jaws and short noses were developed so they could hang onto the throat of a bull and still be able to breathe. In more recent years, dogs have been trained as seeing eye dogs for the blind. Dogs have also been recruited to work with law enforcement to detect drugs and explosives.

Today many dogs, such as the Poodle or Chihuahua, no longer resemble the wolf. Other dogs, such as the Siberian Husky and the German Shepherd still show a strong resemblance to the wolf. There are many different breeds in existence today, from the short haired Beagle and Boston Terrier to the long haired Cockers and Scotties. The Beagle may be better suited to live in the city, while Setters or Collies may be more comfortable in the country. The tallest dogs are Great Danes and the Irish Wolfhound. They would probably be more comfortable in a place where they had a lot of room to run and play.

In the United States, one out of three families owns one or more dogs. Most dogs live anywhere from eight to fifteen years. When dogs are one year old, they are as physically mature as a 15 year old human. Dogs can see some color but not as vividly as humans, thus they are considered color blind. Yet, dogs can see much better in dim light than us. Dogs have us beat in the category of smell, also. Their sense of smell is up to one million times greater than humans!

Regardless of which kind of dog you choose- big, little, smooth haired, shaggy, fast, slow, playful or dignified, dogs make wonderful companions. Enjoy their companionship and remember they need plenty of love, attention, and petting to be happy!

Whether you intend to show your Westie, or keep him for a household pet, the first key to West Highland Terrier grooming is to start while he is a puppy.

Take your Westie to his first groomer appointment after he has had all of his shots, at approximately 14 weeks. Acclimate your dog to the grooming process, and he will grow to accept it as part of his natural routine. If you intend to groom your dog at home, give him his first clipping at around the same age.

West Highland Terrier grooming, whether performed at home or by a groomer, should be performed with the dog’s safety and comfort as the first considerations. Be aware of the practices used by your groomer, and be sure to remain with your dog until you are convinced that he is safe.

Contact your local Westie Club to find a reputable groomer. If you intend to show your dog, you will want to be sure that your groomer knows what a Westie cut looks like. It is not unusual for owners to find that their Westie has come home from a grooming looking like a Schnauzer or a Scottish Terrier. If you are uncertain, bring photographs to your first groomer visit.

Although you might think that, after safety, your first consideration is price, how to groom your Westie is your next decision. A show dog must be hand stripped to give the dog its Westie look - round head, carrot-shaped tail, and blended skirt.

Hand stripping involves actually pulling hairs. When they grow back, they tend to be straighter and coarser. Many claim that a hand stripped Westie coat sheds dirt, allowing the dog to go longer between baths. Hand stripping is not necessary for a Westie that is kept as a pet, and a regular clipping from your groomer, or at home, is all that your dog needs. A clipped Westie coat will be softer and curlier, and more prone to staining.

Because of their white coats, staining is another problem peculiar to West Highland Terrier grooming. If the hair is white at the base, licking might be the problem, and is often triggered by cuts and abrasions, or objects lodged in the hair around the paw.

Hair that is stained down to the base may indicate a fungal or yeast infection, and your Westie should see a veterinarian. Staining around the muzzle is most often caused by the food the dog eats. Check for red food dies, or beets in the formula. If you want your Westie to attain show dog perfection, a cotton ball dipped in hydrogen peroxide, and wiped on the beard daily, will lighten and prevent the stains.

(Disclaimer: Any information contained in this site relating to various medical, health and fitness conditions of Westies or other animals and their treatments is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of any animal. You should always consult and check with your own vet or veterinarian.)

Cat Declawing

What is the use of cat declawing?

The main reason people decide to declaw their cat is to protect their furniture. An untrained cat’s claws can be very destructive in a home, damaging furniture, curtains and carpets. Cats like (and need) to scratch and claw at wood and rough surfaces, and if they are not properly trained, your furniture will look very inviting to them. Another reason people give for declawing their cat is to prevent the cat from injuring them. Cats use their claws and teeth to defend themselves and to fight. Small children may mishandle a cat and provoke it in scratching them. Some cats also have a more aggressive or nervous nature and will scratch people when they feel threatened.

Cat declawingToxoplasmosis and Bartonellosis are two diseases that can be transmitted from cats. It is important to note though, that those diseases are most likely to be contracted from a litter box, or even from biting – but it is highly unlikely that it will be contracted from cat scratches.

Declawing a cat is a selfish and very drastic solution for problems that could be solved in many other ways and may bring forth much more serious problems. Owners that decide to declaw their cat do this solely for their own comfort and do not take in account the problems that may sprout from doing this.

What does the declawing process involve?

Cat declawing is also known as onychectomy and is a much more complex operation than simply removing your cat’s nails or claws. The declawing operation is in fact the amputation of each of the cat’s toes at the first joint. It involves cutting of the front part of a cat’s toes and means cutting through nerves and muscles and removing bone. This operation is extremely painful (it has been proven to be much more painful than sterilizing or spaying your cat) and it will take a long time to heal. Even after the wounds have healed, the cat may suffer from a series of after-effects.

Are there any disadvantages to declawing your cat?

Yes! There are numerous disadvantages, not only to your cat but to you as cat owner as well. Cat declawing is illegal in many countries around the world and considered as inhumane and as a form of animal abuse and mutilation.

Many people don’t realize just how painful a declawing operation can be. Scientists have proven cat declawing to be extremely painful and even test new painkiller drugs on cats that are being declawed. Although the cat may not show signs of pain outwardly and seem to be content, it will definitely be in a lot of pain after the operation. Big operations or rather amputations like declawing can hold many of the usual dangers related to surgical complications. A lot of vets also only use the minimum amount of painkillers and anesthetics during the operation, and prescribe no painkillers for the recovery process at home. The wounds take several weeks to heal, and the pain may continue months after the operation.

Complications after a declawing operation are also very common. The wounds may become infected or some of the amputated toes can begin to grow back. Some cats may experience lameness and even be crippled. You may notice a declawed cat trying to scratch at surfaces. They reason for this is because it is common for the tendons of the severed joints to detract and cause a constant feeling of stiffness in their paws.

Cats need their claws for balance and also use it to hook their paws on surfaces and stretch themselves. This stretching forms a very important part of the cat’s exercise and muscle toning. A declawed cat will need to learn to walk differently (because it doesn’t have any front joints) and its body weight will rest on their feet which can even cause arthritis.

It is very common for declawed cats to develop behavioral problems. It may develop a fear for its sandbox, because scratching in the sand may be painful. So, instead of having a cat that damages your furniture, you will have a cat that refuses to use its litter box. Also, because it has been deprived of its best means of defense, its claws, it may now revert to using its teeth to protect itself and can start to bite people when feeling threatened.

Declawed cats will also not be able to defend themselves effectively against other cats or dogs and can even die in fights.

Because of these behavioral problems developed after declawing, many cat owners become detached from their cats and may even want to get rid of them.

Professional cat declawing

If you do decide to declaw your cat after all, at least make sure that it is done professionally and with as little discomfort to your cat as possible.

The most developed method of declawing to date is laser declawing. Laser declawing is less painful, because bleeding and swelling is reduced.

Always ensure that your cat or kitten is older than 4 months before declawing. It is also not advisable to declaw cats that are old and not so active anymore, because they will take a longer time to recover.

After the operation, your cat may be kept in the hospital for the night, or a longer period of time depending on the cat. When taking your cat home, try to keep it from getting overexcited and prevent it from jumping or putting heavy strain on its paws. It is common for the paws to start bleeding every now and again, but ask your vet’s advice if the bleeding alarms you.

To minimize the pain your cat can experience when using its sandbox, put newspaper strips in the sandbox. Sand or clay can infect the wounds on the paws or cause pain when “scratching” in the box. After your cat is fully recovered you can replace the sand again. Your cat may not like the newspapers and this can become a messy affair.

Always look out for the following warning signs, and notify your vet if any occur: Swollen paws and frequent bleeding. If your cat display extreme difficulty in standing up or walking after one day.

Alternatives to cat declawing

Before deciding on such a drastic measure or “solution” as declawing your cat, first consider some of the (often more effective) alternatives. The main reason for declawing a cat is to prevent it from damaging your furniture. Scratching is a necessary instinctive habit for removing the dead cells around its claws, practicing balance and stretching and toning muscles.

Cats are highly trainable animals and can be taught to use only a scratching post for these purposes. There are numerous scratching posts or “cat furniture” to choose from, whether your cat likes scratching vertical or horizontal surfaces. You can even buy “cat trees” with attractive objects hanging from the tree to catch your cat’s attention or build your own (just make sure they are stable and won’t fall over on your cat).

To train a cat to use scratching posts, and to discourage it from scratching your furniture, you can place netting or foil over your furniture. When you see your cat trying to scratch your furniture, pick it up and put it down in front of its scratching post.

Nail caps can be applied to a cat’s claws, this need to be applied every 3 to 6 months depending on the cat. Nail caps will prevent damage to your furniture and to yourself while causing almost no inconvenience to your cat (compared to the serious discomfort caused by declawing). You can also trim your cat’s nails frequently to keep it blunt.

For more information about taking care of cats see cat-urine.net/cat_declawing.html

Having a well behaved dog can really mean the difference between a pleasant experience and a downright horror pet story.

We all want to have a great time with our loved ones including our pets so why not implement some of these handy hints to ensure your dog is always well behaved.

1. Train your dog early. Ideally you would want to start training your dog when its just a puppy. This is the best time to start setting boundaries and training it on what it can and cant do. If you have your dog a little later in its life span then get it to a local dog training course as early as possible. Think of it as quality bonding time and you can be around other pet lovers. Your investment in a dog training routine will pay of immensely in the future.

2. Always be positive around your dog. Whether your training or otherwise be positive around your dog. Treat your dog as you would like to be treated. Positive reinforcement goes along way to creating a pleasant well behaved dog. Keep your training sessions short and enjoyable for both you and your dog. If you find that you are feeling stressed then end the session for the day and pick up again the next day.

3. Set boundaries. At the end of the day your dog is not an equal. It is merely an extension of your family. You wouldn’t let your child run freely with no consequences and you wouldn’t let your child run your household. This goes also for your dog. You need to ensure that your dog understands the pecking order. This will go along way to ensuring that your dog obeys your commands and is disciplined around you and strangers.

4. Be assertive with your commands. Don’t discipline your dog by yelling out their name. They will in time relate their name with a negative connotation which is hardly what you want. You don’t want your dog shriveling in fear every time they hear their name. Pick commands and use assertiveness to enforce them without being aggressive. If your dog finds that you aren’t enforcing your commands then they will in time start testing which commands to follow and which to ignore.

5. Enjoy your time with your dog. At the end of the day you want to have a companion that you both enjoy spending time with. So do things that you both enjoy together and share time with each other. Take your dog to the park or for a walk. Make sure you bring some treats.

A well behaved dog is not such a far fetched idea. With a little patience and training any dog can be mans favoured companion.

1. Make a puppy bag: Take a puppy bag with you each time the pup goes along:

* Soft wet and dry rag(s) in a zip lock baggie

* Empty zip lock baggie that contain a “mess”

* Leash/collar or harness

* Treats/toy/tug/water

* Copy of attempt record

2. Have a support system: Start a list of the names and numbers of skilled dog people you could be called for advice, recommendations or simply to brag. Start this list using your breeder, veterinarian, trainer, feed store and as well then gather cards from “dog owners” you meet during excursions with your pup.

3. Chew treats: Puppies are normally known as chewing achines. That’s how they discover their world. Much like human babies, everything just goes in their mouths. Especially at teething time, give your pup with a mixture of textures for chewing pleasure. Some of them are:

* Ice cubes

* Large carrots

* Toy with natural peanut butter rubbed

* the pup’s searching tongue

4. When Pup meets cat: Separate the fresh pup from your house cat till the pup is tired. Make the first; manager’s introduction or get to know visit when the pup is vigor depleted. If your cat is tremendously testy, inquire with your veterinarian about mild sedation for the feline.

5. Not around puppy: Be aware what you do around your puppy. Spading weeds from your flowers might be a task for you. However, the dog might find it’s a grand way to learn about digging holes.

6. Take it easy: Puppies are small balls of energy. Yet, they require lots of rest. Do not set your hope too high. Let your pup have ample of “down time.” If you have children, verify they understand the puppy should have “time and space” to rest and be left alone.

7. Go for a walk: Soon these would be a magic. Take your puppy for a short walk daily. Exploring the world collectively is a great way to expose your puppy to new experiences. But remember: they tucker-out simply, so do not overdo.

8. Do not push it: Puppies learn superior when you do not effort to teach over at one time. Make the sessions short and good to end on a good note. Make sure the training is a real fun for the puppy and he/she would learn faster and would be keener to please. If the puppy is having complexity with one work-out, end on a good note and try again some another day.

9. Keep them occupied: A bored dog could be a critical dog. Give your puppy something that keeps it occupied. Toys are significant to excite a puppy’s brain activity. Choose items, which won’t confuse the pup. Chew toys, which look like shoes are not a good idea.

10. Love lasts: Your pup would be a mature dog before you know it. A dog is a lasting commitment. Some breeds live 15 years or even longer. That gorgeous puppy still requires love and care when it is mature. If you care for your pets, they would return the love many times over.