Archive for July, 2007

Irish Terriers - the Perfect Family Pet

Friday, July 13th, 2007

The Irish terrier is a breed with distinctive proud appearance and unique personality. Today, more dog lovers than ever are discovering this wonderful dog.

Let’s look at why Irish terriers make such great family pets.

While Irish terriers are not as fashionable as some other terrier breeds, they have a loyal and devoted following and are becoming more popular as family pets.

Temperament

The Irish terrier is an intelligent dog which is full of fun, but not hyperactive and has a steady even temperament.

Irish terriers are loyal, affectionate, free-spirited, and gentle with children and also make excellent watchdogs due to their courageous nature.

The Irish terrier is a free-spirited and strong willed dog. They will however respond to firm trainer with a relaxed authorative manner.

They will learn who is boss and have respect for their owner although they may never be totally obedient!

They are a dog full of mischief, which is part of their charm and that is why they are so well loved and cherished by their owners.

Appearance

The Irish terrier has a distinct proud appearance with his head held high on a long, graceful neck; making this breed stand out in any crowd.

The face features folded ears, dark brown eyes and a piercing, intelligent expression.

An Irish Terrier is a compact sturdy dog and stands approximately 18 in (46 cm) high at the shoulder and weighs approximately 24 to 28 lb (1112 kg).

The dense, wiry coat is close to the body and in terms of color is a solid red-wheaten, bright red or golden red.

The Irish terrier in terms of outline is very different from other terriers.

For example, it is longer than the fox terrier, having a more sleek appearance but still with a sturdy, solid look.

The Irish terrier (although much smaller) looks very similar to an Irish Wolfhound.

History

The Irish Terrier is believed to be one of the oldest Irish breeds originating from the districts around Cork in Ireland.

Very little history is known about the breed, although it is believed the Irish Terrier is probably descended from the old black and tan and wheaten terriers.

The breed was used as messenger dogs in the first World War, which attributed to their reputation as a courageous dog where they were affectionately called “daredevils”.

Originally bred to control vermin, the Irish Terrier was also the watchdog of the family home.

The Irish Terrier as a family pet

To function in their environment they need to show their intelligence, their independence, and courageous nature.

The modern Irish Terrier still remains a “ratter” at heart.

While its independence pluck and courage contribute to its attraction, any owner must take into consideration that the Irish Terrier is a big dog in a small body.

New owners must make a commitment to provide early socialization and training to maintain the wonderful Irish spirit, and form a loving bond.

This will create a well-adjusted dog which will be a loving pet, who is full of fun, unpredictable and a joy and inspiration to their owner.

Dog Obedience Made Easy

Thursday, July 12th, 2007

Virtually any dog can learn to behave in an obedient and well mannered fashion. There are several keys to simplifying the process of training your dog to obey you. Keeping these keys in mind when working with your dog will improve your results. Read on for ways to make dog obedience easier.

One important factor in training a dog is to be consistent. It doesn’t take a lot of time, but the training sessions need to be done every day if possible. If you spend five minutes twice every day taking your dog through commands such as sit, stay, heel, and come, it will yield better results than an hour of training twice a week. Dogs have short attention spans, and need attention frequently as well.

Another key factor is to know your dog well enough to know how to reward or penalize it. Rewards are absolutely essential to training. Verbal praise can be one of the most effective. Pet that dog and tell it how wonderful it is when it does what it is supposed to. A food treat, such as a tasty kibble of dog food, is a classic reward, too. Make sure your dog hasn’t just eaten a full meal or it will lose its effectiveness.

Punishment doesn’t work as well, but there is a time when penalizing will work. This means providing a negative outcome when the dog is not doing what it should. Ignoring a dog when it is misbehaving can be a form or penalizing it, as can giving the leash a jerk. Beating or kicking a dog, or locking it up in a boring building for hours, are forms of punishment instead of penalty, and should be avoided.

You want the relationship between you and your dog to be based on trust and good feelings, not on fear and negative feelings. The best way to do this is to use positive reinforcement when it behaves, and by knowing what it likes. It is worth it to take the time needed to know what your dog really likes and then use it as a reinforcer for good behavior and obedience.

One thing to remember when obedience training a puppy is that they need some time to mature. Starting early is great. We’ve all heard that old dogs don’t learn new tricks very well. But the truth is you will be wasting your time if the puppy is too small. Be really patient in the early weeks. Use the early weeks for getting acquainted and for house-breaking. Leash training can come later.

House breaking is best done using the crate method. Have a dog carrier or small pen that will be the dog’s own special area. If you contain the pup in this crate whenever you are gone, and overnight, the dog will not soil it, but will wait till you return to use the potty. Of course if you will be gone for a very long amount of time, or if you failed to take him out to potty before penning him up, he might have to go so bad that he will soil his crate. Generally speaking, though, a dog has a natural instinct not to soil his kennel.

Fighting Fleas Indoors - How to Treat for Them in your Home

Wednesday, July 11th, 2007

You’re sitting in your favorite spot on the couch with your cat by your side. Then all of the sudden, you feel an itching sensation around your ankles. You scratch a few times, but this irritating feeling deserved persists. You look down and see little dark dots just bouncing around. Guess what? Your precious kitty has brought a present into your home - fleas! But wait a minute; you are diligent about treating your family pet for fleas. After all, you struggle with your ornery cat when it comes to baths, flea collars and topical flea treatments. What is the deal with all these hopping pesky critters nipping at your ankles?

Unless your cat is strictly an indoor family feline, chances are it has brought those fleas condign inside from the outside! Your first course of action is to treat your yard with insecticide to kill any fleas and larvae. However, that outside treatment alone is not going to eradicate those fleas inside your home. See, what happens is that these adult fleas material off your pet and burrow into the carpet. The same does for any flea eggs, pupae or larvae. These critters be inadequate lie in your carpet, seat cushions, slipcovers and bedding until such time that their eggs hatch and are ready to hop onto some unsuspecting victim. You have to not only treat for those adult fleas but also get those eggs as well before they hatch.

The first step and perhaps the most important in fighting these fleas is your vacuum cleaner. Consistent vacuuming is a great way to get rid of a lot of the adult fleas as well as the eggs, pupae and larvae in your carpet, bedding and really, anything else that can be vacuumed. Be sure to vacuum the areas where you cat sleeps and lounges the most. Also be sure to get into the cracks and crevices of the floorboards and corners of rooms. The key to a successful vacuum session is making sure to replace your vacuum cleaner bag ofttimes so that those eggs don’t hatch and escape to other parts of your home. By sealing your vacuum cleaner bag inside of a plastic bag, you can ensure that those fleas will not escape.

The next step in eradicating the fleas from your home is the use of flea insecticides. These chemical treatments can be in the form of powders, sprays and foggers. In some instances, depending on the flea infestation, you might have to use a combination of products to get the desired effect you want. In regards to powders, this would be a treatment that you shake and work into your carpet. By allowing the powder to settle into the carpet fibers, it can penetrate down into the matting below. This speeds up any flea eggs into hatching, where you can then vacuum up the little critters, thus ridding yourself of even more fleas.

With sprays, flea control is short term. Flea spray really just kills the adult fleas and does not affect the eggs, pupae or larvae. Foggers can be messy and a trial to work with. You have to vacate your home for several hours or even up to overnight, depending on the amount of treatment you have to conduct. Some foggers leave a residue on the surfaces in your home. You have to take special care and put away any food products and relocate your fish tank or bird cages.

Be sure to get every single area in your home that your cat visits. Some cats enjoy the closet and will sleep in there. Others like the garage or laundry rooms. You also cannot forget the pet carriers and any vehicles that the cat may have ridden in. All of these areas will ambition to be treated for fleas.

It is important to note that successful flea eradication stems from a combination of several treatments. Vacuuming should always be the first step in the treatment process. Then the sprays, foggers and powders are the next step. After the application of these chemical treatments, you should vacuum again. This treatment cycle rarely works the first time. You may have to complete the cycle two or more times before most of the fleas are gone. You know when you’ve been successful because you will be able to sit with your cat on the couch without being nibbled on by fleas!

Pet Training

Tuesday, July 10th, 2007

Do you have an unruly dog or cat that just won’t behave? When animals don’t listen to their masters and start to become destructive around the house, it is probably time for some good old fashioned pet training. There is much more to pet training than just teaching your dog the basic commands like sit, stay, heel, lay down, and roll over. When you can become the leader for your animals, they will follow you and live up to the name of man’s best friend.

There are many pet training tools that you can use if you prefer to try teaching your pet commands or tricks at home. You don’t have to be a professional dog trainer to get your dog or cat to come, stay, or listen to you. The first rule to follow is to be very calm and assertive around your dogs and cats, so that they get the message that you are in control. You might also want to purchase training leads, collars, treats, leashes and other helpful pet supplies to assist you in the teaching process.

When you begin your pet training, whether with a professional or at home, remember that if you get frustrated or angry with your pets, you probably won’t be able to teach them very easily. Patience and repetition is key, and the more you practice and also exercise your animals, the better your relationship with them will be. Consider getting a pet training video or book to help you teach your dog or cat the best behavior.

Pet Tags: An Overview

Monday, July 9th, 2007

When a pet is lost, a pet ID tag is often the only way to find its owner. In the growing US pet market, the demand for pet tags is booming. Annual ID tag sales now surpass $155 million with more than 18 million pet tags sold.

Pet tags include the name of the pet and owner, and the owner’s address, phone number, and other relevant information. Artwork and logos may also be included. Pet tags can be designed using different materials, such as aluminum, brass, metal, plastic, and stainless steel, and in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes (small, large and extra large). Tiny pint-size tags are especially designed for kittens, puppies and other small pets. These tags contain name, address and telephone number of pet owner. Each tag comes with a hole and is designed to be hung from a collar.

Creating and designing a pet tag is an art and big business. Durability and legibility of the tag determines whether the lost pet will reach its home or not. Hardware to wear the tag is equally important and should be of good quality. All tags should have an eyelet to put it in collar of the pet. The size of pet should be considered while selecting tags. Lightweight tiny tags are best for small size dogs and kittens. Tiny tags are still large enough to carry four lines of information just like normal-size tags. Pets should not be burdened with more than one tag.

Plastic tags can be chewed by the pet, especially teething puppies. They may be break proof but not chew proof. Quality plastic tags should be preferred. Stainless steel tags do not rust. Engraved text is very clear, legible, and looks good on steel tags. Stamped stainless steel tags may not be as good and readable as engraved ones. But brass tags are not as durable as stainless steel because brass is a soft metal. Even lacquer-coated brass tags do not last long. Vending machines can produce aluminum tags but these machines cannot engrave on stainless steel. Tags of aluminum, which is very soft metal, are inexpensive.

Pet tags are very affordable. Blank tags cost as little as quarter, while a complete pet tag can cost as little as $3.00. In some parts of the world, permanent pet tags are issued at-cost or even free.

Pet tags for dogs are the most popular form of pet tags. Dog pet tags display address and telephone number of the owner. In the case of a lost dog, this means that it easily can be sent back to respective owners. Metal tags worn around a dog’s neck in its collar are a good means of identification. Data on pet dog tags may consist of allergy details, artwork, medication, logo, picture, and text. They can be personalized. Tags can be produced in matching colors and desired sizes. Double sided engraving tags may cost as little as $5.00. Many tags have separate lines for name, address, city, pin and so on.

Readily available and easily affordable, pet tags are vital for ensuring that if your pet gets lost, it will have a good chance of being found and returned to you.

How to Raise a Healthy Kitten

Sunday, July 8th, 2007

Selecting a Kitten It is best to choose your kitten from the whole litter, choose the frisky playful, friendly kitten that is confident and happy to approach you rather than the one that hangs back and is shy. The best time to take your kitten home is between 7 and 8 weeks old. Some pedigree breeders like to keep the kittens until 12 weeks old so they can have their initial vaccinations. Some things you have to look for when choosing a new kitten or cat are:

  • The ears should be clean and no unpleasant smells.
  • White blue eyed cats are prone to deafness (all cats eyes are blue at this age) Test this by making sounds outside its field of vision.
  • Eyes should be clear and bright with no sings of weeping.
  • Gums should be pink (not red) and teeth should be white.
  • The coat should be clean and unmated with no fleas or flaky skin.
  • Check under the tail – this area should be spotless in a healthy cat.
  • Setting in your new Kitten or cat It is probably best to have a proper pet carrier to take your new pet home in – to avoid extra stress. At let your new kitten or cat come out of the carrier at its own time. It will need time to settle down, so make sure it has fresh drinking water and a little food also make sure it can find its way to its bed and litter tray – then leave it alone for a little while. Make sure that children behave gently and quietly around the kitten, kittens need peace and quiet to sleep as well as needing laytime. It is best to keep your kitten confined indoors for a week or so and accompany your kitten on its first trip outside – continue to go out side with your kitten for the next few trips. This will give the kitten a sense of security and encourage it to come when you call. Your new kitten should integrate quite well with other pets, make sure that you can introduce them slowly. Some pets will integrate at all – make sure you keep small mammals and birds away from your kitten as their natural instincts will take over. Once your kitten has overcome its initial fears it will amuse it self for hours with very cheap simple toys like ping pong balls, cardboard rolls and small stuffed animals. What Equipment your cat or kitten need A bed: a cardboard box with a blanket or cushion in it – makes an ideal bed for a kitten as the kitten grows you may like to find a more permanent replacement, such as wooden box or a covered bed. You may like to keep in mind that it should ideally be washable when choosing a bed. Place the bed in a quiet, draught free, warm spot. Grooming tools: – A brush - preferably with natural bristles is very useful for grooming any cat – for long haired cats you will also need a wire toothed metal comb and a pair of rounded scissors to cut out any tangles. A pair of feline claw clippers will complete your pussy cats grooming set.

    A collar or harness: Your cat should wear a collar complete with an identification disk. The collar must be elasticized in case it gets caught – for example on a branch whilst climbing a tree. Some owners train their cats to go for walks on a harness or lead.

    Toys: There are a huge range of toys available for cats making play of exercising fun and providing stimulation. Many stuffed toys contain catnip – this herb also called catmint appeals to many cats, creating an apparent sense of wellbeing – this lasts for approximately 15 minutes. A scratching post – Cats love to scratch. Scratching serves a couple of purposes – firstly it keeps the claws neat and trim – it also marks the cats’ territory as other cats will see the marks and smell the scent. The cat has glands between the toes that release this scent as the cat scratches.

    A scratching post is the best solution – but the cat will need to be taught to use it from the very beginning. This will save your furniture, avoid using a carpet covered scratching post as the pet cat may see the house carpet as an extension of the scratching post. If the cat ha selected a piece of furniture where it like to scratch – by covering it with plastic for a while the cat will stop scratching there. Cats do not like the feel of plastic. A litter tray – A litter tray will be needed when your kitten first comes home and if you intend to leave the cat in at night. Choose a tray that is deep enough and roomy enough for your cat to turn around in easily. There are numerous varieties of kitty litter available – choose one that suits you. Also a covered litter tray is a great idea as it keeps the smell and the mess inside also creating a more private spot for your cat. A Cat flap – Cat flaps are a great idea to allow the cat to go in and out as it pleases. You must be careful however as other cats may also come in. check what flaps are available and choose the one that suits your needs. A cat is quite easily trained to use a cat flap – prop the flap open at first and call the cat through form one side than the other. When it has mastered this, lower the flap a little and use the same procedure – continue to do this until you can close the flap altogether. Feeding your kitten Ask the breeder or pet shop for a diet sheet so that you can continue feeding them the same diet and quantities. This will avoid you giving it too much food or an over rich diet which can cause tummy upsets. You should also find out meal times. Food and feeding your cat There are three types of cat food available commercially –moist food, semi – moist food and dry food. Cats need meat or fish everyday to be healthy.

  • Moist food as in the canned varieties is preferred by most cats because it closely resembles fresh meat. It also has the vitamins and minerals that the cat needs. How ever canned foods will not last long once served and it is best to take the food away after an hour to encourage your cat to eat its food in a single sitting rather that picking at it all day long.
  • Semi – moist food usually comes in a sachet. It keeps well in a bowl without drying out or loosing its texture and tastes good to cats.
  • Dry food contains very little moisture so it is very important to have fresh drinking water available.
  • Establish a feeding routine where you feed your cat once or twice a day – at the same place and the same time. Leave the food out for an hour then take it away. This will help to make your cat a healthy eater and not pick at the food all day. Worming

  • The most common worms that affect cats are round worms and tape worms. Cats must be de-wormed regularly. Your vet will give you specific advice on worming products.
  • Following these simple steps will ensure you, your family and the newest edition to the family will have a happy, healthy and rewarding time together.

    (c) Katharine Logan 2005 http://www.pet-library.com

    Horses - Affirmed

    Saturday, July 7th, 2007

    In the crazy world of horse racing the one thing we had yet to see going into the 1978 horse racing year was back to back triple crown winners. That was about to all change because of a horse by the name of Affirmed.

    Not only had there never been back to back triple crown winners but no horse ever had to beat the same rival in all three legs of the triple crown. So 1978 was indeed special all the way around. Because during this amazing year Affirmed and Alydar gave racing fans all over the world the thrill of a lifetime. By the time the last leg of the triple crown at Belmont was run, Affirmed was a triple crown winner but it was Alydar that got everyone’s sympathy and was the hero of the year.

    The truth is, the Affirmed - Alydar rivalry started long before they ever got to the Kentucky Derby, the first leg of the crown. On June 15, 1977, was when it all started at Belmont Park. The two horses were running in the Youthful Stakes. It was Alydar’s first race and Affirmed’s second. Affirmed won the race while Alydar finished a disappointing fourth. In was the only time in ten meetings between these two horses that they both didn’t finish first or second.

    Affirmed came into the world on February 21, 1975. He was born at Harbor View Farm in Florida. The owner, Louis Wolfson, had sent other horses out to race in his career but never with the success that was about to come with Affirmed.

    Affirmed made his maiden race on May 24, 1977, at Belmont Park. He won the race by an easy 4 and 1/2 lengths. Three weeks later was when he won the Youthful with Alydar coming in fourth. But after that race, Affirmed and Alydar ran every race almost neck and neck in one of the greatest rivalries of all time.

    On July 6 at the Great American Stakes, Alydar finally got the better of Affirmed and beat him winning by 3 and 1/2 lengths. This didn’t discourage trainer Lazaro Barrera who then immediately shipped Affirmed out to Hollywood Park where he won the Hollywood Juvenile Championship on July 23. This was the first of four straight victories for Affirmed.

    There were other races afterwards, with Affirmed and Alydar trading victories. This set up the first leg of the triple crown, the Kentucky Derby. Ironically, this turned out to be the least exciting race of the three with Affirmed taking a commanding lead. At the end, Alydar could only close the gap to 1 1/2 lengths though he gave it a valiant effort.

    It was a different story two weeks later at the Preakness where the two horses were engaged in an epic duel. Affirmed again took an early lead but this time Alydar made it a race with Affirmed winning only by a neck.

    But as good as the Preakness was, the Belmont Stakes will go down in history as being one of the most exciting races in history. For almost the entire race in a five horse field, Affirmed and Alydar were running neck and neck. It was like out of a movie. Finally though it was Affirmed who won the race by a head.

    This was indeed one of the greatest horse rivalries in racing history, one which may never be duplicated.

    Cat Fleas

    Friday, July 6th, 2007

    There are more than 2,000 species of fleas around us. Out of these, the most common one is the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. The cat adult fleas, unlike many other fleas, remain on the host. Though it exists worldwide, it is most commonly found in the United States. Cat fleas are commonly found on both cats and dogs.

    In order to reproduce, cat fleas needs fresh blood. They lay eggs at the rate of one egg per hour. Their life cycle consists of four stages of metamorphosis, namely egg, larval, pupa and adult. Depending on external environmental factors like temperature and humidity, this cycle lasts 30 to 75 days. The most common problem occurring due to flea bites is flea allergy dermatitis, the severity of which depends upon the sensitivity of the host. Pet owners in the United States spend millions of dollars each year on flea allergy remedies. Cat fleas often carry infection too, and are feared to be capable of carrying plague and typhus. They also serve as the intermediate host to the dog tapeworm, an intestinal parasite, which gets transmitted to the pest when the flea carrying the tapeworm cyst is ingested.

    The only possible way to detect fleas is to observe the behavior of your pets. Early detection of the fleas enables you to control them and minimize the suffering that can be caused to you and your pets by allergies or more serious infections transmitted by them. The most important way to control the breeding of fleas is to take proper care of sanitation of your indoor and outdoor premises. Ensuring proper care of pets by washing and shampooing them regularly is also another important factor. There are varieties of shampoos available in the market for pets, which contain pesticides, and are helpful in eradication of fleas.

    Only by being conscious of cleanliness can we rid ourselves of the annoyance and hazards spread by cat fleas: by preventing them from breeding in and around our homes and pets.

    Tips for Your Pet Bird’s First Month Home

    Thursday, July 5th, 2007

    For any new pet moving to a new home can be a very traumatic experience and in some cases even more so for a pet bird. Many times if bird was hand fed as a baby it may have stronger attachments then other birds. However if you take the time setting up your birds new environment properly with some extra care, it will a bit easier for your pet bird to make the adjustment to it’s new home.

    One of the most important things you should first do when you bring your new bird home is to place its cage in an area that does not have an over abundance of activity or confusion. Even though we are trying to make sure our new friend doesn’t feel like he is caught up in the middle of all the household action. We also want to make sure that he does not feel all alone by putting him in some unused room by him self. Ideally you want to find a spot in your home where he can still interact with you, but there won’t be constant loud noises or lots of sudden movements that can continually startle him.

    In situations where you already have another bird in your home, it would be best to segregate your new arrival for about thirty days. The reason you want to do this is to help ensure that if your new bird has an infectious disease, you won’t infect your original bird. When creating a quarantine for your bird, it would be best to keep him on floor in a completely different room of the house. Also make sure to keep their food and water dishes apart and do not interchange them even after washing. If your home has a central air conditioning system, you may have difficulty being able to ensure a true quarantine. Since these kinds of air conditioning system employ air duct systems which carry the air from one room to other rooms in the house. Regardless it is still a good idea to quarantine the new bird than immediately putting exposing him to your original pet even if you have air ducts.

    You should also make sure that any new bird you bring home is in good health. So be sure to take him to your local avian veterinarian for a general check up. Your veterinarian will be able to check and make sure that your new pet bird is free of any contagious diseases, worms or bacterial infections. This is even more important in cases were you have a hand fed baby bird, the reason being is that if the bird wasn’t properly hand fed it is at a higher risk for having a bacterial infection.

    When ever you bring a new bird home you should closely monitor their eating habits during their initial adjustment period. If you notice that your bird doesn’t seem to be eating at all during the initial twenty four hours, you should try and offer him some spray millet. Spray millet is pretty much a dessert for birds. Another option is to offer him a whole grain cereal which may coax a frightened bird into eating. If you just brought home a newly weaned baby bird and he is not eating and is also making various squalling noises, your new bird may have regressed some and will need to be hand fed slightly longer. In these situations call your breeder for assistance.

    If for some reason you cannot get in contact with your breeder, odds are you can buy some hand feeding formula from your local pet shop. To use the formula simply mix up a tiny quantity of the hand feeding formula until it reaches a consistency close to that of pudding. Then offer some of the mixture to your bird by putting some of the formula on a plastic spoon. If all is well he should eat it right off the spoon.

    Lastly, you should not be afraid to interact with your new pet bird, just make sure you don’t get out of hand and overdo it. At first you should only try to work with him for 10 minutes at a time and no more. If he continually flies away and you notice your self having to chase and catch him, Just put him away back in his cage for a bit until he starts to calm down. Every time you chase and catch your bird it cause him some stress, which is something we are trying to minimize for our new friend.

    Basics Of Saltwater Tropical Fish

    Wednesday, July 4th, 2007

    Some folks believe that the saltwater tropical fish aquariums look better than the freshwater aquariums. But are they? Which do you like? Below are some ways to choose which type to choose for your home. Also, you may want to go to http://www.fhhome.com for more home decorating ideas.

    The answer lies in the fish! Saltwater or marine aquariums are made to house tropical fish that you find around reefs in the ocean. These fish come in shapes sizes and colors that make a dramatic impact. The freshwater fish simply cannot compete with these natural beauties.

    If you want these same gorgeous fish in your living room, you can setup and maintain a saltwater tank with only a bit more effort than your freshwater tank. They key is to choose hardy fish that will last as saltwater fish are much more fragile and more expensive than their freshwater counterparts.

    Some hardy fish you may want to consider for a saltwater tank include damsels, mollies and clownfish.

    Damsels are probably the most hardy fish and should certainly be considered for a new tank as well as for beginners. These fish are fairly inexpensive, are not finicky eaters and can withstand poor water conditions better than any other marine fish. Although they are not the most colorful of fish, they are certainly your best bet until you become experienced and have a stable tank. The only caveat is that some can be aggressive so you should limit yourself to 2 per tank.

    Mollies, the same fish that you use in freshwater tanks, can be acclimated to salt water tanks and are quite hardy. These fish are very inexpensive and a great way to start off your marine tank. If you buy mollies in the pet store from a freshwater tank, acclimate them by dripping salt water into the bag over a period of 8 hours or so - removing excess water when the bag gets too full and slowly increasing the salinity.

    While damsels and mollies may not be the most beautiful fish, the clownfish is certainly a colorful and interesting fish for your tank. These fish are fairly hardy but a bit more difficult to acclimate to a tank so you may not want to use them as starter fish. Clownfish are territorial but will only be aggressive with other clowns and are good for a community tank. Although clowns do like to live around a seas anemone, the will do fine without one which is good for the beginner since the anemone is fairly difficult to keep.

    These three types are a great way to begin. But you will eventually want to add other varieties of tropical fish. Consider basslets, wrasses, hawk and grammas to complement your tropical fish tank. Some difficult ones to keep, and therefore avoid, are mandarin, certain eels, butterfly fish and seahorses.