Pets

Whether you are planning on adopting a kitten or found one on your doorstep this morning having a new kitten can be a fun and challenging experience. Kittens are cute, soft and so much fun to watch, but they are babies and as babies they have needs. With knowledge and preparation bringing home your baby kitty can be a great experience for you both.

YOUR KITTEN’S BASIC NEEDS

Your kitten’s top needs are food, water and a litter box. Kittens need higher levels of protein than adult cats so they will need food formulated for kittens for their first year. Water is easy just raid your cupboard for a small shallow dish, until you can find a more suitable one at a pet store or online. Next your kitten will need a litter box, a short one is a good idea to start with. I also strongly recommend avoiding clumping kitty litter because kittens can ingest it by licking or otherwise and it is designed to become a hard lump. Unfortunately, there have been reports of kittens ingesting clumping kitty litter and having symptoms such as vomiting a yellow frothy substance, diarrhea and even death. Look for non-clumping clay or biodegradable kitty litters such as those made from recycled newspapers, corn or wheat. There may be other organic choices available at your local pet store as well. Most kittens know by instinct what to do when given a litter box full of litter as a last resort you may shred unprinted newsprint for your kitten to use.

MAKE YOUR KITTEN FEEL AT HOME

Another nice item for your new kitten is a soft warm bed, this too can be homemade or store bought. Kitten love to be in enclosed places like baskets or boxes. To help them transition more easily include a soft item from their former home. You will probably find that their favorite place is lying on a shirt that has your scent. Cats originally came from a pride and like lying together in a group so a piece of clothing with your scent makes them feel like they are in a group. This is especially important for a kitten that has just been removed from its family unit.

PROVIDE ENTERTAINMENT

Toys and a scratching post are not necessities but if you like your curtains, couch and legs, I highly recommend them. Kittens are very curious and have a lot of energy to burn they are building their hunting and climbing skills. By providing safe outlets for your kitten to explore you will lesson the chance of them tearing up your possessions or possibly getting hurt. Toys such a fury mice give them something to chase, catch and carry. Interactive toys will keep them busy and hopefully wear them out once in a while. A scratching post whether homemade or store bought will provide a legitimate place to scratch. Praising them when they scratch the right place can lead to good scratching habits in the long run.

A SAFE PLACE FOR KITTY The next important thing to give your new kitten is a safe place for them to retreat. This is especially important if there are young children in the house. This can be a small bedroom, bathroom or closet. This will give your kitten the security it needs to feel safe while adjusting to a new home.

KITTEN-PROOF YOUR HOME

Remember kittens are just like little kids they love to explore and they frequently get into things that could hurt them. Be sure to kitten proof your home by making sure that there are no long electrical cords that your kitten could get tangled up in. Also watch that they don’t chew on electrical cords either and keep the toilet lid down, a small kitten may not be able to get out if it falls in. Don’t leave small items lying around such as broken balloons and game pieces. It’s also a good idea to put away precious heirlooms for a while until your kitten settles in and learns the rules. Also make sure you put up houseplants, as some may be poisonous and secure mini blind cords, as your kitten could get caught in them and be strangled.

LOVE AND PATIENCE

Now you and your new kitten can settle in and get to know each other. It’s an exciting day for everyone so many new things to see and do, but remember to take your new kitten to the vet as soon as possible to get his or her vaccinations. One of the first things you will need to do is take your kitten to the safe area and show him/ her their bed and where the litter box is. Then give them some time to explore and become familiar with their surroundings. Be sure to closely observe small children when they interact with the kitten. Teach them how to properly hold and pet the kitten for both their and the kitten’s safety. Kittens have very sharp claws and haven’t learned proper manners yet, so you and your children may get scratched a lot at first. Be sure to wash any scratches with soap and water and put first aid antibiotic on them right away. Children need to learn when to leave the kitten alone such as when they are sleeping or eating.

Bringing home a new kitten is a wonderful experience. Knowledge and planning will make your kitten’s transition into your life smoother and even more enjoyable.

A longhaired cat ought to be groomed on a daily basis, this helps keep the coat tangle-free. Use a soft brush to groom the coat first. Work your way from your cats head to his tail brushing in the direction that the hair is laying. Gently brush his belly and tail. Then use a wide-toothed comb to gently comb through the hair.

If your cat has any knots or matted hair, gently ease the knot out with a comb or brush. Holding the knot in one hand whilst brushing with the other will prevent any pain to your cat from pulling on the coat. Longhaired, flatter-faced cat breeds need their eyes cleaned and dried weekly or even daily. Fluid cannot drain through the tear ducts properly and they are therefore prone to weeping.

If your cat starts getting fussy and giving you signs that she has had enough, you can groom the sides of her face. You can also give your cat the occasional treat.

If you think your cat may have fleas, you can end the grooming session with running a narrow-toothed comb through the coat. Grooming should not aggravate your cat, but be a pleasurable experience that can build trust and confidence. Start grooming sessions gradually with short sessions so your kitten or cat does not become bored. Never restrain your cat if they become stressed during a grooming session. Instead stop the session and try again later when they are more relaxed.

The result of grooming your cat whether it is a quick weekly brush or a daily intense grooming session is a happy cuddlesome cat. Your cat will look good and feel great.

Many different fishes from the Cyprinid family are referred to as barbs, but it is chiefly the species found in the genus Barbus that we consider true barbs. The name Barbus is derived from the fact that barb fishes are equipped with sensatory organs called barbells that they can use to find their way in murky waters where light is scarce. The genus Barbus is also known as Puntius and contains a wide range of popular aquarium fishes, including the silvery Tinfoil barb (Barbus schwanefeldi).

The Tinfoil barb has a silvery body with bright and shiny scales and beautiful black and red-orange fins. The Tinfoil barb is sometimes confused with another species in the aquarium trade, Barbonymus altus, but this fish lacks the black lines that decorates the caudal fin of a true Tinfoil barb.

The Tinfoil barb is an active species that will inhabit the lower part of the aquarium, from the bottom and up to mid-level. Most Tinfoil barbs in the aquarium trade are wild caught, since their size makes them difficult to breed in captivity. Sexing the fish is also hard. Tinfoil barbs are egg-scatters and a female Tinfoil barb can produce several thousands of eggs during one spawning.

Tinfoil barbs should only be kept by aquarists with really large aquariums, since it is one of the largest barbs and can reach a length of 36 centimeters (14 inches). It is also a schooling species, so you must have enough space to house a group of Tinfoil barbs. A school of Tinfoil barbs is non-aggressive and can be combined with fish from other species as long as those fishes are as large as the barbs or bigger.

The Tinfoil barb feeds chiefly on plant material, but will not turn down occasional treats in the form of worms, insects, crustaceans or small fishes. Keeping your Tinfoil barbs with small fishes is therefore not recommended, since they might be perceived as prey. It is not hard to get your Tinfoil barb to eat in captivity. If you have tender plants in the aquarium, or plants that have not yet rooted themselves in the substrate, your Tinfoil barb might eat them.

The Tinfoil barb will also appreciate filamentous algae. Many aquarists choose artificial plants for their Tinfoil barb aquarium, but you can go for real plants if you choose sturdy plant species that will tolerate nibbling. Ideally begin with really inexpensive plant species to test how your particular Tinfoil barbs will treat the live plants.

The Tinfoil barb originates from tropical waters in Borneo, Sumatra, Thailand, and the Malayan peninsula, and the water temperature in the aquarium should therefore be 22-25 ° C (72-77 ° F). Since it inhabits rapidly moving rivers and streams in the wild, the Tinfoil barb will appreciate strong currents in the aquarium. The preferred pH is in the 6.5-7.0 range and the water hardness should not be higher than 10 dGH. If you care for your Tinfoil barbs and provide them with a suitable environment and appropriate diet they can live for 8-10 years.

There are numerous products that will kill adult fleas on your dog. However, they vary in the duration of their effects.

1. Flea shampoos, sprays, and powders. Most products will kill any fleas present on your dog at the time of application, but many have no lasting effect - your dog may have more fleas within 24 hours of being treated. When using a flea shampoo, always begin on the dog’s head, face, and ears so the fleas won’t run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet’s eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful. All shampoos should be rinsed thoroughly from the coat.

Some of the newer, more effective sprays can be a valuable part of the overall treatment plan. They kill adult fleas rapidly and are safe enough to use daily, if necessary. Flea sprays containing insect growth regulators (IGR’s) are helpful in managing the overall problem because they help to break the flea life cycle. Be sure to read the label when using any of these products, because they might be recommended for once a week application, instead of daily.

Flea powders are easy to use - simply sprinkle on your dog’s coat.

2. Flea rinses or dips. These may be effective for four to five days, depending on the product. The rinse is applied after the dog has been shampooed and not rinsed out and left to dry on the dog’s coat. You need to dip the entire dog from nose to tail. Follow directions carefully regarding frequency throughout the flea season.

Pet shops and supermarkets sell a huge variety of flea dips and shampoos for your pet. If your dog has only a few fleas, there’s no reason why you can’t treat him yourself. Make sure to follow the label instructions on whatever product you buy, and pay close attention to age restrictions. Many products are not suitable for young puppies. Never use cat products on dogs.

As with flea shampoos, when using a flea dip, always begin on the dog’s head, face, and ears so the fleas won’t run for shelter in those hard to reach areas. Be extra careful not to drip any solution in your pet’s eyes. Applying the solution with a sponge is helpful.

You might want to take your dog to the veterinarian where either an assistant or a groomer on staff will dip your pet, or take your dog to a grooming shop for flea treatment.

3. Sprays containing flea growth regulators which are called IGR’s. These sprays are usually applied weekly and the growth regulators help break the flea’s life cycle.

4. Flea collars. Flea collars are an easy, economical, and useful method of flea control when used before you see fleas, but aren’t very effective if you already a flea problem. Flea collars are on the dog and working 24 hours per day. However, they are not very effective in climates that are especially conducive to flea reproduction. Many people don’t like the smell of insecticidal flea collars or the smell and oily feeling the insecticide leaves on their hands after petting a dog wearing one. But, they are a lot better than nothing!

Many flea collars, such as the Ovitrol Plus or Ovitrol Plus II sold by veterinarians, kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile. These are generally called Egg-Stopper Collars and contain insect growth regulating ingredients, which prevents egg from hatching.

Some dogs are sensitive to flea collars and develop a skin irritation under the collar, so if this happens, you should remove the collar and use another method of flea control.

In addition, there are High Tech Electronic Flea Collars for dogs that emit powerful ultrasonic pulses. They are supposed to be inaudible and harmless to pets and humans but, fleas go crazy!

Do-it-yourself Low Tech Herbal flea collar - effects last approximately one month: Buy a soft untreated flea collar. Mix 1/2 teaspoon rubbing alcohol, essential oils of 1 drop cedar wood oil, 1 drop lavender, 1 drop citronella, 1 drop thyme oil. Open the contents of four garlic capsules into mixture. Soak flea collar until it has absorbed sufficient mixture soaked through, then let dry.

5. Spot-on products. Advantage® and Frontline® are two brand name products that are applied topically to a small area of the dog’s skin and they effectively kill fleas for at least a month. They are purchased in small vials that contain one dose for various sizes of dogs. They kill adult fleas, usually before the flea has the opportunity to bite your dog.

When using some of the new residual topical treatments such as the spray and the liquid applied to the dog’s neck, you may find environmental control will become much less a concern. In some cases, treating the dog with these new products will effectively control the environmental problem.

6. The pill. (Program™) This product prevents flea eggs from hatching when administered orally to pets once a month at mealtime. Dogs are fed Program in tablet form. Different tablet sizes and suspension doses are prescribed according to the animal’s weight. When an adult female flea bites a Program-treated dog, the flea ingests the active ingredient (lufenuron) which then passes into her eggs and prevents them from hatching. Program is dispensed only through veterinarians. This drug does not kill the adult fleas on your dog, but it does break the flea life cycle by preventing hatching of the next generation of flea eggs. In effect, it kills the next generation of fleas.

A similar product called Sentinel contains both the flea control ingredient and heartworm medication all in one dosage.

7. Natural methods include essential herbal oils, essential fatty acids, garlic, and/or B vitamins tend to make the animal less tasty to fleas. You can supplement with garlic or brewers yeast tablets. Some animals are allergic to brewers yeast, so watch closely the first week or so to make sure the itching doesn’t get worse.

8. Flea Combs. Run the comb through your pet’s hair and gather a bit of hair and “flea dirt”. Daily flea combing may seem like a tedious process, but you can trap some of them in the comb. Be sure to drown them in soapy water, because fleas can jump out of plain water.

Actually, more superstition than you would imagine.

The science part, we all know. By application of laws, theories, and technologies borrowed from physics, biochemistry, and engineering, veterinary medicine takes on the appearance of a science.

But, surely, mere application of scientific principles does not make an enterprise a science. After all, belief systems of all kinds use scientific principles. Religions apply the principles of economics, engineering, and more. But no one would confuse religion with science.

A science is a coherent system that produces consistent outcomes. Orthodox veterinary medicine has value, but it is neither coherent nor consistent.

The lack of consistency is obvious. Anyone having an animal treated at a vet knows that the outcome is chancy. Maybe the treatment will work and maybe it won’t. Vets make no excuses for this lack of certainty and everyone, including myself, accepts it. Animals are extraordinarily complex creations and no one should expect predictable results.

The lack of coherence, though, is another matter. After all, we expect any credentialed group, especially one authorized to deal in sickness and health to have a logical coherence. We expect their facts to be part of a real, objective analysis. Many of the “facts” of veterinary medicine are not facts at all.

A complete analysis of the logical flaws in veterinary medicine would take a much longer article and will be dealt with in the future. However, their most flagrant disregard for reality has to be the reliance upon disease entities.

Disease entities do not exist! At least they do not exist in the way that we ordinarily understand a thing to exist. Things, entities, objects have a mass that can be measured and weighed. Diseases do not have extension in time or space. There is no there there. They have no factual basis. Disease entities are a focus for treatment, a shorthand notation to explain a complex biological process.

No problem with veterinarians using shorthand to focus their treatments. The problem arises when a convenient way of talking about a condition takes on a life of its own. The problem arises when we start to confuse the label of a disease entity for the reality of a disease process.

Take for an example, Parvo in dogs. What is it? It is not the Parvo Virus. The Parvo Virus existed before 1984. But Parvo, the disease, did not. Before 1984, dogs contracted the Parvo Virus but most of them did not contract Parvo, the disease.

Even today, most unvaccinated dogs contracting Parvo will recover. Some, though, will die within 24 hours. The virus is the same. The dogs are different. Parvo, and all diseases, describe a complex response between host and pathogen. Parvo is not a thing. It is a process.

Facts are stubbornly solid. They have a solidity that superstitions lack. So the veterinarian inability to affect the immune strength of dogs is a fact that should be addressed but for many reasons is not. So since the vets lack the tools, they do not talk about treatments for immunity. In its place, they substitute an imaginary enemy they can deal with–the disease of Parvo.

Parvo, a non-existent entity, can be conquered with a vaccine, itself a very dangerous treatment. That would be acceptable except the Parvo was never there to begin with. What happened with the advent of modern veterinary medicine was that dogs were getting immunologically weaker. One treatment the vets devised for that immunological weakness was to initiate an immune response to the Parvo virus. The result of the Parvo vaccination, and the many other vaccinations, is that while dogs are now immune to Parvo and other common canine diseases, their overall immune strength continues to fall as they get sicker and sicker.

Now dogs are free of the common canine diseases. Only, they get more immune-related diseases than ever. Dogs are diabetic, cancerous, dyspeptic, allergic, and inflamed. The vets focused on disease entities rather than on the interaction of a pathogen and the host. The result is a domestic canine population more immune to a narrow spectrum of diseases and more susceptible to a much wider spectrum.

Superstition, especially the kind that denies the facts underlying sickness and health, is counter-productive. Superstition does have a positive value, though. It is a tool of the powerful against the powerless. When diseases became things, medically authorized persons gained a great deal of power but lost their credibility, effectiveness, and scientific legitimacy.

House rabbits are a perfect pet for many people, regardless of whether they live on a farm or in an apartment. House rabbits are small, easy to take care of, and don’t require any expensive supplies like some other pets do. They are cute, friendly, and playful. They are also safe enough that you can have a child play with a rabbit unsupervised, something that would probably not be safe to do with a dog.

Also, rabbits love to play with children. Having more than one rabbit will just add to the fun. However, if you do have more than one rabbit, make sure they are the same sex. Also, while rabbits sometimes get along well with other pets, it is generally best to not mix rabbits with cats or dogs.

Caring for your House Rabbits.

Care for house rabbits is critical for the well being of your rabbit and for your enjoyment of your rabbit. You will not be able to enjoy your rabbit as nearly as much if your rabbit is constantly ill. Also, your rabbit will not be very happy if it spends most of its time feeling miserable. Unfortunately, rabbits are very vulnerable to disease.

The best way to protect your rabbit from disease is to make sure that your rabbit and its cage are always clean. Regularly clean your rabbit’s cage with a disinfectant, and also give your rabbit an occasional bath. If you have a new rabbit, quarantine it from the rest of the rabbits for at least two weeks. If at the end of the two weeks the new rabbit looks fine, it is probably safe to put it in with the other rabbits. If you have questions about rabbit care, ask your veterinarian.

Each year, more and more pet owners are taking advantage of positive changes in the pet food industry. Many of the unnecessary, and sometimes undesirable, ingredients once used in pet treats are being replaced by more natural alternatives. Pet owners and pets alike are reaping the benefits of these healthier alternatives.

The caveat: not all manufacturers are jumping on the bandwagon. Many still make treats and biscuits with ingredients we consider off-limits, like chemical additives. In order to make sure your pet is getting a healthful treat, read the label carefully.

Make sure it has:

• No artificial colors.

• No artificial flavorings. Quality ingredients have enough flavor of their own.

• No artificial preservatives, including BHA, BHT, sodium nitrate, and ethyoxquin. Look instead for natural preservatives like citric acid, rosemary, and vitamins C and E. (Vitamin E is often labeled “mixed tocopherols” on ingredient lists.)

• No added sugar, corn syrup, or salt. You want to keep your pet healthy, so why not make sure his treats are the healthiest they can be?

Treats can prove invaluable in rewarding positive behavior and in reinforcing behavior learned during training. They’re also a fun, inexpensive way to show your dog you love him. When choosing a treat, be sure to consider:

• Intended use - if you plan to use treats during training, smaller treats are a good choice. They’re quickly consumed and provide minimal distraction from training tasks.

• Frequency - if you plan to treat your dog often, consider smaller, lower-calorie treats which will help him stay slim.

• Age & Health - puppies often prefer smaller treats, and seniors with sensitive teeth often prefer soft treats. Dogs with food sensitivities/allergies can benefit from hypoallergenic treats.

• Pooches preferences - treats are available in several different shapes, sizes, and flavors sure to fit your dog’s unique tastes.

A poorly trained dog is a nuisance and can even be a danger to himself and others. A properly trained dog, on the other had, is a wonderful and pleasant companion. In addition to helping you bond, it can even protect your pet from being hurt if he listens and will come when called.

When training always remember that dogs respond best to positive reinforcement – yelling at your dog and hitting him will not accomplish the task, instead use rewards such as treats and your approval – this will make the task much more pleasant for both of you!

There is a common “process” to training, no matter what you want the dog to do. They key is to get the dog to perform the action and at that exact moment give the command for the action, then praise the dog and reward him with a treat. After a while, he will catch on and associate the action with the command.

Here’s some steps you can use to train your dog with the most basic command – Sit.

1. The first thing you need to do is to get your puppy or dog to associate the act of sitting with the command. To do this, simply hang around with your dog and when he sits give the “sit” command.

2. Getting down to your dogs level will allow you to present his reward (treats) quicker so grab a handful of bite sized treats and get down on the floor.

3. Bring the treat up over the dogs head. He will smell the food and follow it with his nose. This action will cause him to sit (or backup, but obviously we are hoping for the sitting action).

4. The key to the training is to present the reward at the exact moment the dog sits, but you must also give the command at that moment as well so that he associates command with action. So as the dog sits, say “sit” and then immediately give him the treat.

5. Give the dog praise – show joy in your voice and he will really respond.

6. Repeat three to five times at each session but no more than that. Training should be fun and not a boring chore so don’t overdo it in one sitting. You may have several sessions throughout the day.

When you spend the time to train your dog, you get much more than just a dog that does some tricks. He loves to do things with you. He learns to listen when you say his name. He gets used to being with you and doing things on your initiative. Through good training your position as leader is strengthened. You should plan to spend a couple of minutes every day on practicing his “tricks”. This type of repetitive reinforcement will help him to remember and also create the bond between you.

Raising a puppy can be a very rewarding experience but it can also be a lot of hard work. This is something that a lot of people don’t take into consideration when getting a new dog. Puppies much like human infants, need almost constant care and attention especially in the earlier stages. Puppies love to use their mouths to explore objects around them. Smelling and tasting are the primary ways a puppy will learn about new things. If that ‘new thing’ is an electric cable or something small that could lodge in its throat your puppy could be in trouble. It’s very easy for a puppy to get into trouble if it is not constantly supervised.

Another problem that can occur when raising and training a puppy is what could be termed as the ‘cuteness factor’. Puppies by their very nature can be adorable. This seems all well and good on the surface but can cause problems when it comes to teaching your new puppy the dos and don’ts. If your puppy has done something that you consider could form into a bad habit and should be discouraged, it can be very difficult reprimanding the puppy even if that may only involve raising your voice. Many people find it difficult when two big round eyes are looking up at you from a sad puppy face. Sometimes it’s a lot easier to forgive the puppy without taking it to task. The only problem here is, that if you do this too many times, your puppy will be forming bad habits at a very young age. These will become much worse and harder to handle when your dog reaches maturity. They are best nipped in the bud early, no matter how difficult it is.

It is essential that your puppy has room to roam. This does not mean that they have a free run of your home. You should allocate an area that the puppy will have plenty of space to stretch its legs and investigate things whilst still under your supervision. Also try and keep the puppy in areas where other members of the family spend a lot of time. This will help with the bonding process and also keep familiar family smells around your puppy all the time. Doorways and of course the tops of stair ways, should be closed off using baby gates or if you do not have any try a piece of wood made to fit or any other improvised method. The idea is to contain the puppy within a particular area, reducing its chances of straying into trouble. Keep some of the puppies’ favorite toys in the same area, as well as a bowl of water for refreshment. In addition, an opened out newspaper on the floor will provide somewhere for the puppy to relieve itself in an emergency without ruining your carpet.

Dogs are naturally hierarchical pack animals. What this means is that their importance within the pack is ordered by a set hierarchy. The dominant member is at the top of the pack and subsequent submissive members below. The first thing that you can teach your puppy, is that your are the ‘top dog’ or primary dominant member. If you do not assert this dominance early on, the puppy may try to adopt this role through instinctive behavior. This is obviously undesirable if your dog tries to rule your home.

The easiest way to assert your dominance is not through being aggressive or overtly loud but through being consistently firm with bad behavior and giving praise (and the odd treat) for good behavior. If your dog is particularly badly behaved then a firm verbal reprimand should do the trick, seldom should physical violence be used. When your puppy exhibits good behavior such as sitting when asked or ceasing to bark when asked, then a lot of praise will reinforce this behavior.

Making yourself the dominant member will mean that your puppy will look to you for approval and guidance, making rearing your puppy that much easier. Your puppy will soon be looking up to you as ‘top dog’.

Rearing a puppy can be a great experience. There will be no better satisfaction than when your dog grows to maturity as a well rounded member of the family whom you can feel proud of when people comment on what a lovely dog you have.

When you bring home a new puppy, it’s like bringing home a new family member. So, you want to be totally prepared for all the challenges of owning a puppy. With the proper steps, you and your little one will have a comfy and happy life. The basic items that you must have include food, everyday essentials, and grooming tools.

Food is obviously the most important item to have ready for your puppy. Puppies grow at an amazing rate and need extra calories and protein. You can meet this need either by buying puppy food that is specially formulated or by taking adult food and mixing in a raw egg or meat. Also keep in mind that your puppy has been eating a certain kind of food at the breeders or pet store. Find out what kind it is and gradually change to whatever food you want to get. Switching too fast could cause some digestion troubles.

The everyday essentials for a puppy are a collar, leash, crate with bed, pee pads, food and water bowls and of course toys. Be sure to get a crate proportional to the size of your puppy. Large breeds will of course need some more room. This is also important in using the crate to house break. Buy your pee pads in bulk until the puppy is completely house broken. As for toys, go for the more expensive and durable ones. They will last longer and save you money in the long run. Your dog will have more fun with them, too. Get stainless steel food and water bowls because they’re easier to clean and more durable that plastic ones.

Grooming is an important part of a dog’s life that often gets overlooked, so it’s important that you have all the right tools. Whether your dog is short or long haired, you will need nail clippers to keep their nails at a healthy length. Nails that are too long are uncomfortable to walk on and destroy things more easily. For longer hair and larger breeds, decide ahead of time if you’re going to do grooming yourself or if you’re going to go to a professional. If you’re doing it yourself, make sure you have good shears, a brush and some gentle shampoo.