Pets

Crate training a puppy can be valuable for a number of reasons. Being able to rest calmly in his crate is a skill that will serve your puppy well down the road. At the vet, when traveling, and if your puppy is ever ill and restricted on activities are times when a crate can really help your little pooch. In addition, a crate trained puppy is easier to teach rules to as well as train in other behaviors because he already knows how to understand what you want. Here are a few tips that may help you with the process of crate training a puppy.

How to Start

Crate training a puppy is about routine and rules. If you do it properly, there should actually be very few if any problems with the process. First of all, it is usually best to have the puppy spend time in the crate in your bedroom while you sleep. You can always start letting him out as he reaches adulthood, but for the purpose of crate training a puppy you should start with night time.

The Key To Success

Successfully crate training a puppy is about getting him to understand that when he is in the crate alone, nothing bad happens. In fact, good things may happen. He may get food in his crate or even some of his favorite toys. Never make the crate a punishment or somewhere the puppy has to go forcefully. Additionally, don’t put him in there when he is sleeping. If he wakes up suddenly confined, it can really create problems.

Make it a Pleasant Experience

Crate training a puppy is easier when the puppy finds the crate enjoyable. Make it a good place to take a rest, since puppies need plenty of sleep. Put a few of his safest chew toys in the crate along with a treat or two that will help him feel comfort and go sleep well. If your puppy enjoys the crate and can sleep there through the night, it will be better for you and him both.

Crate training a puppy is not hard, but it does take a little know how and a lot of patience. If, though, you take the time to follow the tips above and make the experience a good one for your puppy, you will find yourself with a dog that understands rules and offers you few behavior problems.

The Australian Cattle Dog is a poor choice for young children and apartment living. She is a very dominant dog who needs hours of physical exercise a day and loves to chew. She can become very destructive if she gets bored. She was bred to herd cattle and may try to herd other pets, dogs and even the children in the household if given a chance. They can also be a bit nippy with kids or when annoyed. There are always exceptions to the rule and these characteristics of the breed are generalizations. She basically needs a large safe enclosure or a farm for exercise.

The Australian Cattle Dog is considered a one or two person dog and is suspicious of strangers. They can be very aggressive with other dogs partly because of dominance issues. Some of these dogs have their tails cropped, especially if they are to work with swine.

*Approximate Adult Size. The Australian Cattle Dog male can be 18 to 20 inches at the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and the female can range from 17 to 19 inches at the withers. Either sex can range in weight from 30 to 50 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. The Australian Cattle Dog is relatively healthy but there are a some serious genetic problems to be concerned about. Canine hip dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness) is a serious one. Some have deafness problems and others can be prone to juvenile cataracts or progressive retinal atrophy. There are also hypothyroidism (sluggish thyroid gland which can result in weight), glaucoma, skin lesions, liver abnormalities and osteochondritis.

*Grooming. The Australian Cattle Dog has a short coat that sheds seasonally. Baths should be infrequent and firm bristle brushing is needed weekly or so. Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

*Life Span. With proper nutrition, medical care and housing, she can live from12 to 15 years.

*History. The Australian Cattle Dog was developed in Australia around 1830 by stockmen needing a sturdy dog that could work hard and stand the rigors of an extreme environment. There is controversy as to which dogs actually make up the base stock of this breed. The Dingo (native wild dog to Australia), the Dalmatian, the Australian Kelpie, the Bull Terrier, the Blue Italian Greyhound, the Rough Haired Scotch Collie, the Blue Merle Collie, the Old English Sheepdog, and the Smithfield are some of the dogs that probably make up this breed.

*Category: Working herding group.

*Registries: AKC, ACR, APRI, CKC, NZKC, NKC, ANKC, CKC, KCGB, FCI

*Category: Herding group, working dog.

*Terms To Describe The Breed: Loyal, protective, alert, trustworthy, muscular, agility, strength, athletic,

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Very intelligent.

Excellent guard dog.

High energy breed.

Great working stock dog.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Very serious chewers.

Often a one person dog.

They need serious exercise.

Can be difficult if they want to be.

Very dominant.

Can be very destructive if bored.

Can challenge their owner for supremacy.

*Other Names Known By: Blue Heeler, Red Heeler, Queensland Heeler

Is your pet carrier safe for Air Travel? The new laws of May 2005 require airlines to report all pet incidents to an appropriate government agency. These reports are then compiled and released to the public monthly by the U.S. Department of Transportation. Pet owners can now access these detailed reports on specific airlines prior to making pet travel arrangements. “Equipped with this newly released information pet owners can now make more informed pet travel choices,” says Lisa Kelly, owner of DryFur.com and KC Pet Products, LLC.

FACT: These Newly Released Reports note that, overall, pet airline travel is safe. Reports further state that, although extremely rare, the number one cause of incidents (death, injury or loss) has usually been “Kennel Problems” such as escape or injuries during escape attempts. The second leading cause of incident was extreme temperatures (heat/cold). DryFur.com is a pet care site that helps inform and prepare pet owners for flight trips with that special little friend.

Is your pet carrier safe for Air Travel?

Take the DryFur.com 9-Point Carrier Kennel Test below to find out:

* Is it constructed of thick heavy-duty plastic with a metal door and metal bolt attachments?

* Is it missing any hardware? Reports indicate that just one missing nut & bolt attachment can cause serious problems for traveling pets.

* Does your pet carrier kennel have dial latch attachments? Reports indicate that these types of attachments are not nearly as reliable or safe as metal bolt attachments. They further recommend that these types of attachments should be reinforced with plastic cable ties to ensure they will stay in the closed/locked position.

* Does your pet carrier kennel have plastic peg-type attachments? Reports indicate that these types of attachments are also not as safe or reliable as metal bolt attachments. They further recommend that these types of attachments should be removed and replaced with metal nuts & bolts or plastic cable ties.

* Does your pet carrier have snap together attachments? Reports indicate these types of kennels are very unreliable.

* What about the kennel door, will it stay closed and secure even if your pet begins to panic? Some airlines are now requiring plastic cable ties on all kennel doors to insure they stay closed/locked during flights.

* Is your kennel lined sufficiently to absorb all wetting accidents? Wet slippery kennel floors are very uncomfortable and extremely unsafe for traveling pets. Further wet skin and fur will exasperate cold temperatures creating a dangerously unsafe environment for your traveling pet.

* Is your kennel properly labeled with “Live Animals” and “Arrow indicating this side Up” to insure proper handling?

* In the unlikely event your pet does escape always make sure your pet has current updated contact information attached to his/her collar. (when traveling or relocating a cell phone, pager or family member’s numbers is preferred for the quickest response) Also pack along a recent photo of your pet this will assist you in locating your pet if he/she is lost or escapes.

By looking at pomeranian pictures you will indeed fall in love with this wonderful breed of dog. Obviously there is more than just good looks that makes this dog adorable and a fantastic family member but good looks is a great start.

If you are looking for a small breed dog that is also a great watch dog, a loyal and intuitive companion, or one that is always happy and playful, with good looks to boot then you can’t go past the pomeranian or pomerian (as sometimes mispelt).

How could you go past the fox like face and the beautiful ball of fur that you find when looking at pom puppies. Their little faces that hold so much expression.

Finding the time to look at pomeranian pictures you will soon see what I mean. You will also see different colors but the most common color is orange. You will find white, black, parti colors as well. Whatever color, they are all gorgeous. These dogs are a toy breed meaning that they are small. Some can be a small as 2 lbs. This is extremely small but most are anywhere up to 7 lbs. Unlike some other very tiny breeds such as the chihuahua for instance these dogs have a wonderful disposition and are not generally snappy or moody. Of course any dog can gain these traits by poor training from their owners but it is not an inbred trait to worry about.

What you will find is that you will have a friend for life and what I have found is that the older these dogs get they still seem to stay young with their enthusiasm for life. They adore human company and if you can say that they may have a down side then it would be that they want to be center of attention all of the time but with good training and lots of love and cuddles you will be able to keep that in check.

Take the time to look at lots of pomeranian pictures and read lots of information about these wonderful little creatures and then you will soon understand why they are such a popular little addition to any family including yours perhaps.

No need to wrestle your cat into a flea dip anymore. The latest preventive treatments are easy to apply. While shampoos and flea collars are still options, parasitologists have developed wonderful new weapons in the war against fleas and ticks. With simple monthly administrations of these oral, injectable, or topical medications, you can guard your cat against flea and tick infestations. Fleas and ticks are dangerous disease carriers that can make your cat’s life miserable. Fleas can transmit tapeworms and cause itchy allergic reactions, which can lead to scratching, hair loss, and infection. Fleas ingest animals’ blood, and the bloodsuckers can actually consume so much that some cats die of blood loss. Hence it’s crucial to keep your cat flea-free.

These Treatments Keep the Pests Away

New medications prevent infestations by killing the adults that hitch a ride on your furry friend or by keeping their eggs from hatching. Here’s what you need to know about the most common flea and tick preventives in your veterinarian’s arsenal.

Program contains lufenuron, a chemical that prevents flea eggs from hatching but does not kill adult fleas. It is available as a monthly oral tablet or suspension and as a twice yearly veterinarian administered injection. This compound doesn’t work against ticks. Frontline is available in a dab-on formula or a spray. It uses fipronil to wipe out both fleas and ticks, and it continues to work even after you give your pet a bath.

Advantage (imidacloprid) is a topical treatment that also withstands washings and keeps killing fleas for a full month.

Revolution (selamectin) is the latest big gun among the monthly options for flea and tick prevention. You apply a few drops of the liquid medication to your pet’s skin, and it guards against heartworms, flea eggs and adult fleas, ticks, ear mites, hookworms, and roundworms.

If Your Cat Has Been Infested

If you started using one of these flea medications after you discovered a flea infestation, you’ll need to treat your house too. Fleas can live for several months in your house and yard, and flea eggs may hatch in your carpet, cushions, and drapes for years. Your cat isn’t the only one at risk: People can get irritating fleabites too. Ridding your home of these pests takes time and a concerted approach. Here’s what to do.

To get rid of housebound fleas

Use professional flea foggers in each room and sprays for hard-to-reach spots. Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times in a week. After each vacuuming session, remove vacuum bags and tape them closed, then throw the bags away. Also clean your cat’s favorite hangouts and wash her bedding regularly.

If your flea problem is recurring

You may need to treat your yard as well. Use professional concentrated yard sprays for the outdoor fight. You can buy many that attach easily to the end of a garden hose for application. It’s especially important to spray moist and shaded areas of your yard. Note: You should never use any environmental treatment directly on your pet. Ridding your pet and home of these hardy pests is a tough job, but you’ll rest easier knowing that your cat doesn’t have to endure the maddening itch or insidious diseases these parasites can inflict.

More and more therapist, doctors and mental health professionals are becoming aware of the wonderful therapeutic benefits of involving dogs in patient recovery. Dogs are used with brain injury patients, elderly, physically impaired as well as patients in hospitals and treatment centers. The very nature of a dog, its loyalty, unconditional love and its pure joy at seeing a friend really make them a wonderful asset to any therapy program.

Therapy that involves dogs, known as Animal-Assisted therapy, is used in many different settings in several different countries. The dogs can be involved in helping with fine motor control as the patients move their arms and fingers to pet and brush the dogs as part of their therapy process. Large muscle therapy is also completed when the patients take the dogs for walks or on outings to parks and recreational areas.

There is little hard scientific evidence as to how or why dog therapy works so well with many patients. Many therapists believe that the unconditional love of the dog helps patients gain self-confidence and self-esteem. There is another school of thought that caring for or spending time with a dog something that often brings patients back to their childhood or to a more positive time in their life. Regardless of exactly how or why dog therapy works so well with patients is not as important as the fact that it really does work.

Dogs can also be used as a friend for many patients. Elderly, shut in and isolated patients come to see visits from their therapist and their dog as a chance to interact with another living thing. Dogs are very non-judgmental and are always happy to see the patient, which is very positive for the patient both emotionally and socially.

Therapy dogs are not a specific breed or type of dog, nor do they have to a certain age or size. Usually therapy dogs are medium to large sized dogs but there are many small dogs that make excellent therapy dogs. Many organizations that use therapy dogs have volunteer owners and dogs come to the hospital or care facility and work in conjunction with the health care professionals and trained therapists on staff.

Therapy dogs must be very calm and well behaved. They should have no history of any kind of aggression or lack of obedience in new or unfamiliar settings. The dogs should be very well socialized and should not be prone to barking or whining as this can be disturbing to the clients as well as other patients in the facility.

Most therapists require that the therapy dogs do through special obedience and possibly other training. The dogs are taken in and out of the facility many times before they actually start working with the patients and clients. In addition both the owner and the facility will need to carry special insurance on the therapy dog to cover any possible events.

If you have a dog that loves people, is very calm and relaxed even in new situations, has lots of patience and is very obedient you may want to volunteer with a dog therapy service. The internet is a great place to start your search for agencies, or contact your local hospital or long-term care facility to find if dog therapy is being used in your area.

An under gravel will chiefly function as a biological filter, but larger debris can naturally also become trapped in the substrate. In this type of filter, water is forced through the substrate at the bottom of the aquarium by an air lift or power head attached to an air lift. To make sure that the filter functions properly, the aquarium keeper will usually place the gravel on top of a perforated surface. The actual filtration is performed by bacteria that colonise the surface of the each pebble or corn of sand. The smaller the particles, the more surface area for the bacteria to colonise. An under gravel filter should therefore not be constructed using large-sized gravel. When you select between the various air lifts and power heads, you should keep in mind that very rapid currents are undesirable in an under gravel filter.

The under gravel filter is inexpensive, but can be hard to clean, especially for the inexperienced aquarium keepers. If a lot of debris becomes stuck among the gravel, it will seriously hamper the filtration process. You can reduce the risk by attaching a sponge at the water intake. This way, the water will be mechanically filtered before it is forced through the under gravel filter. Remember to clean the sponge regularly. Another way of preventing clogging is to employ so called “reverse-flow under gravel filtration”. During this type of filtration, a power head is used to push water up through the gravel. Under gravel filters are most common in freshwater aquarium, but they will work well in marine fish-only aquariums too unless the aquarium is heavily stocked. A reef aquarium will typically need more powerful forms of filtration than the under gravel filter, since reef creatures tend to be extremely sensitive to poor water quality.

Fluidized bed filter

Fluidized bed filters are often used in planted aquariums. Unlike many other types of filter, they will not make carbon dioxide escape from the water. The fluidized bed filter is similar to the under gravel filter, but is comprised of small sand particles instead of gravel. Both the under gravel filter and the fluidized bed filter are biological filters that require bacterial colonization to work, and since sand particles are smaller than gravel there will be more surface area for bacteria to colonize in a fluidized bet filter.

Another difference between the under gravel filter and the fluidized bed filter is that the later one is more compact and has a more powerful water flow forced through it. In the fluidized bed filter, the sand will be tumbled around quite violently and this will make the water highly aerated. This in turn will provide the bacteria with plenty of valuable oxygen. This powerful water flow means that a fluidized bed filter rarely clogs up, and you do not have to spend a lot of time on maintenance work. If clogging does occur, it must be solved immediately since an oxygen deprived fluidized bed filter is unhealthy for the aquarium.

There are several types of ready made fluidized bed filters to choose among, and you can also create your own do it yourself fluidized bed filter. A fluidized bed filter can be placed inside the aquarium or hung outside the aquarium like a power filter. If you make your own fluidized bed filter, you should keep in mind that it will need a very strong water pump to work.

I didn’t like Jimbo much when we first brought him home.

At the time, we had an old Dauchsand named Frank that was so easy going, so easy to take care of. Frank needed no supervision. He just didn’t have any inclination to push the envelope in any way. And this is what we were used to. We had no idea what we were in for. Nor did poor old Frank… or our poor old cat Peter.

But talk about cute. This Jack Russell puppy was the epitome of adorableness. But what a little arrogant brat he could be!

Peter was very protective of his dignity and enjoyed his daily walk across the yard to his own private latrine area. Needless to say, things would never be the same for Peter. His dignity and suave stride was quickly converted to panic and a terrorized sprint as Jimbo, who lay in scheming but patient wait, knowing full well Peter’s daily routine, sprung from cover and ran that poor cat up the nearest tree.

I’ll never forget the look on Peter’s face as he glared at the little tyrant skip away in glee. And, after a few deep swallows and recovering his now damaged pride, Peter slowly and gracefully climbed down, swearing his certain and eternal hatred for Jimbo every downward step of the way.

And I wish I could tell you that relationship improved over time…but the only thing that improved is that Peter got his claws into Jimbo enough times to keep him at bay… most of the time anyway.

Now Frank was a bit of a different story. Jimbo idolized Frank, and Frank was like a doting grandfather to Jimbo, a little too doting I always thought. For instance, they would service each other with flea-biting sessions. Well, I say each other, but it was mainly Jimbo that was serviced. He would clench Frank’s foot between his sharp puppy teeth while Frank would commence with flea-biting. If, however, Frank wanted to stop, Jimbo would bear down on his foot. And poor old Frank could not stop until Jimbo released him! So you can see why I had a hard time liking this dog.

But Frank adored Jimbo, and Jimbo followed Frank everywhere he went. The two were inseparable although Frank’s sweet disposition never quite wore-off on Jimbo. He has remained the dynamo tornado even up to the present.

Frank and Peter have long since died and Jimbo is our only pet… who is now nine years old. You wouldn’t know it though.

That’s one of the amazing things about Jack Russells, they neither look old or act old. He, who is a short legged Russell, will still challenge any dog, no matter the size or stance. He will still chase every cat, rabbit or squirrel no matter the time of day, and chase them with extraordinary youthful lightning speed.

As for me? I fell completely in love with him, even though it took some time to get to know him. While he does, and always will I suppose, be predisposed to what is rightly named the ‘Napoleon Complex’, this Little General, in all his lasting arrogance, has won my heart and admiration as being the most unique and endearing personalities I’ve ever known.

Trisha Adams

Jack Russell Terrier Pics & Tics

http://www.jack-russell-terrier-pictures.com

Sometimes the hunter missed the spot in where the deer can get killed instantly. In this article you will get some tips on how to shot the deer in the correct spot.

For example, I was planning a hunt one evening, which was to take place the next day, when it began to snow. Going out about midnight, I drove over the roads that surrounded my hunting territory. I knew that there would be few, if any, fresh tracks in the morning, and that it was important that I have some idea of the movements of the deer during the night.

I found a large buck’s track where he had crossed a road and I chose him as the object of the next day’s hunt. In the morning, I went into the woods where I was sure the buck would be bedded down, found him and jumped him out. Previously, I had sent my companion to a crossing which I suspected the deer would use. That buck fooled me and picked another crossing. Then the fun began. I followed that buck and tried to get my companion on the proper crossing.

That old buck wouldn’t cooperate. He kept on picking the wrong crossing all day long. We never did get him, although I might have been able to bag him on some occasions when I caught a glimpse of him. I didn’t want him; he was my companion’s deer. He didn’t want to bag a deer by having the guide do the shooting. He was a sportsman and a deer hunter.

Another time when hunting alone, I found a track quite late in the afternoon. There was every indication of a snowstorm in the offing, so I decided this deer had left his bed earlier than usual to fill his paunch before the storm. I followed his track until I found out he was heading for a feeding area. Then I planned the hunt. Should I go into that feeding area so late in the day with the chance I could stalk him in the fast diminishing interval before dark, or should I leave him alone until morning and stalk his bed? I decided to wait because the approaching darkness might result in poor shooting that could lead to a wounded deer that I would not be able to locate in the morning.

Next day I kicked him out of bed without getting a shot. I followed him for a time and wounded him, breaking his leg in the process. My own fault. I tried a shot that was way out. I tried to estimate the distance and raised my rear sight for the distance, but undershot.

After I broke that buck’s leg, I followed him for a time until he went into an area where the woods had been cut off some years back and had grown up to clumps of small firs. I rounded one of these clumps and there stood the deer with his tail to me, his head turned around as he tried to clean the wound in his leg. He was not over twenty-five feet from me. At that distance, in that position, he was a dead deer. I drew a bead on him right between his eyes and tried to end his suffering. He went down, but before I could jack another cartridge into my gun, he bounced up and was gone, leaving an antler on the ground. I had forgotten to lower my sight to its normal position after the last shot. I got that buck, but only after a chase that lasted four hours. He never gave me another opportunity to get close and I was lucky to bag him at all, even handicapped as he was by a broken leg.

When a hunter shot the deer and wounded him but didn’t kill the deer because of undershot, the hunter can chase the deer by following the trail.

The most crucial aspect of house training a puppy is to teach it how to remain clean in the house. Dogs are not shabby by nature - they would normally urinate and defecate away from their sleeping and feeding area. Puppies that have been raised in a shabby environment, living in cramped quarters, may be quite cumbersome to housetrain. When you purchase a puppy ensure that the original owner has provided a clean environment with separate feeding, sleeping and potty areas.

Puppies have a rapid learning rate and they can efficiently grasp what you teach them. You need to instill a sense of timing and schedule in your puppy from the day you bring it home. You can do this by feeding the puppy at the same time each day, and carrying out other activities at specific time slots. This way your puppy will grow up to be an obedient, disciplined dog.

You would not want your puppy to go inside its crate or in the house. Therefore, train it to urinate away from the crate or the house. Take it for a stroll in the lawn and voice train it, such that it adheres to your commands. Successfully housetraining your puppy would take a few weeks or so. It’s certainly not a piece of cake, and you must not reprimand your puppy if it fails to obey your command. Just place it back in the crate and then again take it for a stroll. Slowly but surely the puppy will learn how to get along with separate feeding, sleeping and potty areas.

It is imperative that you supervise at all times while housetraining you puppy. When no one is there to supervise it, the puppy must be confined to its crate. With time the puppy will learn to keep itself clean. Once it does so, you can try leaving him unfettered in a room of your house. If the puppy gleefully obeys your commands, does not depict aggressive behavior, manages to stay clean, and does not damage or soil any household stuff, you may let him stay in another room as well thereby continuing the housetraining process. However, if the puppy behaves in an unruly fashion, revert back to the previous stage of housetraining.

All the while be patient while housetraining your puppy. It’s not a cake walk, and therefore, it’s unrealistic to expect instant results.