Archive for May, 2007

4 Ways In Which You Can Spoil Your Dog Rotten

Monday, May 21st, 2007

You spoil your pooch as close to rotten as you can get, don’t you? Hey, who doesn’t? It’s almost impossible not to, with those adorable, big, beautiful eyes, the little lashes, the soft fur just behind the ears… they almost beg to be spoiled. But what can you really do? There are all of those new doggie day spas, doggie day cares, and other doggie luxury services, but how often can you really afford things like that? I mean, most people rarely have enough cash in the bank to get themselves a surprise manicure and pedicure, much less spring for their pups to get a quadripedicure. You give her a few scratches behind the ears, rub her belly, and maybe give her a massage and splurge on some gourmet treats, but you have to pay rent and eat each month. Your budget just doesn’t allow for constant spoiling of your dog…

1. Or does it?

You can make the shampoos, fragrances, and skin conditioners the doggie day spas use whenever you want for a lot less money than you think. Wouldn’t your pup love to have an at-home spa treatment? Give these recipes a shot the next time you want to pamper that pup:

2. Aromatic Dry Shampoo

250 ml (1 cup) cornmeal

250 ml (1 cup) baby/talcum powder

5 ml (1 tsp) rosemary

5 ml (1 tsp) lavender

Combine all of the ingredients in a large, airtight container and let them sit overnight. This will allow the rosemary and lavender to scent the other two ingredients lightly. When ready, sprinkle generously over your dog and brush it into her fur by working your fingers against the lay of her coat. Once it’s worked in thoroughly, use your fingers or a hard rubber brush to massage her coat in the direction of the fur but working in circles. Brush until the mixture is completely out of the coat. Your baby will smell great, the powder and cornmeal help absorb excess oil and dirt to clean her, and she won’t have had to go through the trauma of having a full bath! How great is that?

3. Herbal Shampoo

470 ml (2 cups) purified water

10 ml (1 tbsp) rosemary

10 ml (1 tbsp) orange zest

30 ml (2 tbsp) chamomile

10 ml (1 tbsp) lavender oil

120 ml (1/2 cup) baby shampoo

Bring water to a boil, then remove from heat. Add all of the herbs, cover the dish, and allow it to steep overnight. Strain the mixture and stir in the oils, then gently add the shampoo until well-mixed. This shampoo should be kept refrigerated for freshness when not in use, but use about 2 tablespoons every time you wash your dog for a sweet-smelling, great treat for both of you. Don’t forget to give her a little massage while you’re rubbing it in!

4. Lemon Flea Dip

3 lemons

940 ml (1 quart) water

60 ml (1/4 cup) baking soda

5 ml (1 tsp) herbal shampoo

Cut the lemons into eighths while bringing the water to a rolling boil. Add the lemons, boil for one hour, then cover and let the mixture steep overnight. Strain the solution then add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Warm to a tepid temperature before applying. To spoil your pup with the application, dip a sponge into the water and drizzle it slowly over her coat, then use your fingers to work it in using slow, deliberate circles focusing on points like the hips and shoulders. Give her a good massage – she deserves it! This shampoo uses citrus oil to help repel fleas, but the warm water and baking soda also help to soothe any existing irritations she may have.

See? Spoiling your dog is much easier and less expensive than you think, and I’ve compiled 101 Ways to Spoil Your Dog for Under $10 for just that reason. Any dog owner knows how hard it is to resist spoiling their pup, and now there’s no reason to resist! Spoiling her can be as easy as talking to her… you just might not realize the impact simple things have on her. Give the book a read, then try some of the ideas you’ll find. You’ll be amazed at how much closer and more bonded with your dog you feel!

Australian Shepherd: As Good As Its German Variety

Sunday, May 20th, 2007

Australian Shepherd is every bit as graceful as its more famous German variety. And like German Shepherd, these too, are bred as herd dogs, trained and nourished to take care of cattle. Also referred to as “Aussie”, they first appeared in Australia in the early 1800s and come in colors ranging from near black to blue merle. The original purpose of this breed was to serve as guardians for sheep and cattle herds, but it did not take very long for them to build a reputation for sharp intelligence and unfailing loyalty.

They also come in a number of sizes from sleek and gangling to short and stout. They weight from 35 to 65, and some of them have now the famous one-blue-one-brown-eye combination. Quite a prankster, the Aussies’ capacity for ‘humor’ is matchless among dogs.

However, the Aussie is not for everyone. Having been bred as a herd dog it does not take well to the apartment living of the modern day. It needs space to move and play around. They have no patience to sit and watch television alongside other family members. Their idea of socialization is going out in open, jog around a little and play around a lot. So, if you are one of those television-after-office kind, the Aussie is certainly not for you. It is energetic to the extremes and would try its best to pull you in an active game. Do not expect it to lie at your feet while you type away on your computer or do easy chit chat on phone. You may live in a apartment and it will be happy so long as evenings are his and he gets to play “canine frisbee” or catch-me-if-you-can every evening without fail.

Once you are home from office, it would either want you to indulge with him in a wrestling match or take him out. If you don’t do either, he would find something to do all by himself, which may not be a good news, for they have the reputation for chewing and eating anything that allows their teeth to sink in.

It is highly intelligent and has this deep rooted tendency to closely ‘investigate’ everything. If you are cooking, it may come in to smell and check if the pots smell good and if you are in the shower it may jump in to join you. Besides, they are not really very welcoming hosts. Their sense of humor goes to dogs (other dogs, that is) when it comes to entertaining an unknown guest. They would stare and growl if a guest drops in unannounced. So, if you are getting an Aussie, tell your friends not to ring the bell every time they happen to pass by, for the Aussie is not going to like it. They are kind to children and are staunch protectors of the family.

Housecat Care; How to Handle Specific Problems

Saturday, May 19th, 2007

Make Sure Your Furball Gets the Best Housecat Care

Housecat care includes problems with the litter box and problems with your cat clawing your furniture and curtains. These things can be curbed with the knowledge and actions of the cat owner. There is a time commitment with training a cat. Consider the expense also, caring for pets costs money.

Socializing Your Kitten

Kittens need early repetitive human contact to socialize into wonderful house cats. If concentrated human contact is not present during the pre-weaning stage of the cat, the kittens will develop into shy, reserved cats apprehensive of strangers. No amount of special loving will be able to undo this. While kittens are young, gradually expose them to all the aspects of normal housecat living such as children, other pets, visitors, and noises such as televisions, vacuum cleaners, dishwashers and the like. Take them for little outings into the different areas of your home, keeping them secure and protected in a large cat carrier. Consider taking them for short drives in the car. Anything they are exposed to at this early stage will help them transform into calm, friendly companions in their permanent homes. Housecat care includes socializing your cat.

Litterbox Use

At about 18 days old, a kitten starts to learn to use the litter box. At 21 days, the litterbox training is complete. If your cat is not using its litter box, put it in the room with the box and keep it in there for a few hours every day. Housecat care is training the cat to use the litter box.

Clawing the Furniture

Clawing is not a behavioral problem. It is a necessity and a natural thing for a cat to do. Cats need their claws for several reasons. Grooming is necessary to maintain health and cleanliness. Scratching and licking prevents the fur from tangling, removes dead skin and hair and helps to waterproof the coat. The most important function of a cat’s claws is for protection. Declawing is painful major surgery. It is illegal in fourteen countries and has serious side effects and it is not even necessary. Most cat owners declaw their cats for convenience only. The fact is, cats claw. Claw marks in your house, along with occasional carpet stains and hairy clothes are a consequence of bringing an animal into your home. You can however, create a scratch-friendly home. It begins with the proper tools. There are many wonderful scratching devices on the market today.

There are scratching posts, trees, condos, toys, and even boxes covered in carpet to hide the litte! r box. You can teach your cat to use the scratching tools. Buy several, and put them all over the house close to the furniture the cat likes to scratch. Next, scratch the item yourself and attract the cat’s attention. Praise the cat when he scratches in the right place. There are sprays you can use to deter cats away from an area or you can place inflated balloons on the areas where you don’t want kitty to scratch. Consistent housecat care is loving and patient.

Click And Treat Training For Dogs

Friday, May 18th, 2007

The first major improvement in dog training since choke chains and spiked collars, click and treat has quickly establishing itself in becoming a big hit in the world of dog training. Currently, there are over 10,000 trainers who are using this training method everyday.

One advantage to using this form of training at home is it’s easy to learn for both the dog and his trainer!

Originally used to train marine mammals, click and treat breaks down the process into two separate steps, information and motivation. The click is the information, the treat is the motivation. While other trainers still work on these two steps, they try to teach them all at once, which can confuse the animal and slow down results.

Most trainers will verbally praise a dog for good behavior, while at the same time motivating the dog to repeat his actions. This can be a good method, however it takes longer for the dog to understand which behaviors and actions caused the praise from the trainer.

With the click and treat method, the processes are easily taught. In normal training, a person would say “good boy” when a welcomed action occurs and proceed with giving a treat. The clicker becomes a substitute for verbal praise and can actually catch the “good boy” behavior quicker than saying it, letting the dog know exactly which behavior he is being rewarded for.

Another way to look at click and treat training is viewing it as a secondary reinforcement, while food, water, physical affection and play (things the dog wants) become primary reinforcement. When you take a dog for a walk, the leash works as a secondary reinforcement. It is obvious to the dog that the leash is not taking him for a walk; the owner is, however, it triggers a reaction in the dog, telling him that the leash will let him know where he will go and where he will not. And if he reacts to the leash with good behavior, his reward will be a nice leisurely walk.

Click and treat works the same way. When a dog hears the clicker, he will know that he performed a good behavior and as long as he keeps hearing a click, there is a treat coming his way. So, the clicker works as a secondary reinforcement, teaching him boundaries and appropriate behavior.

A couple advantages of the click and treat method include;

1) Faster response than verbal praise. The clicker can identify the exact behavior at the time it happens.

2) It takes the place of treats. While motivating the dog to hear clicks, it will also teach him to work without the expectations of having treats given to him each time he does something good.

3) If the trainer is working at a distance from the dog, the clicker will still work, without having to be right next him.

Are you ready to try clicker training?

The first thing you’ll need to do is go to your favorite pet supply store and invest in a clicker. The clicker is nothing fancy and should just cost you under five dollars. While you’re there grab some pocket treats, little bits of dried liver work well.

A good method to use when getting started with click and treat is to stand in front of the animal. Click the clicker and give a treat. Continue doing this for 20-30 minutes, or until the dog becomes startled by the sound of the click. This will familiarize him to the clicking sound, while teaching him that every time he hears it, he has done something good. After he gets the hang of it, begin by adding commands, such as “sit” and “stay.”

Click and treat has proven to be a simple, yet consistent training method with quick results. So for the trainers out there who are looking for a new and innovative way to motivate and praise their animals, get out there, buy a clicker and…..click!

How to Care for Your Puppy

Thursday, May 17th, 2007

A Puppy Story

My grandmother had the sweetest little white dog when I was growing up. He was half-poodle, half-maltese, and I loved him dearly. But no matter how much I cared for that dog, he was her baby. She got him quite by accident one day. She was returning from work and he was being mistreated, on the sidewalk where she walked. She gave the harried woman who was being mean to the little puppy ten dollars and immediately took him home. My grandmother, having no pets up to that point, got home with her new puppy and realized she had no food for him. So, she fried up some bacon and eggs and gave the puppy some of what she was about to eat.

That dog was for ever unable to consume dog food for the remainder of its life. Spoiled and pampered, he ate bacon and eggs from then on at least three times a week. Baloney, hot dogs, and other dog-friendly foods rounded out his diet. He was, without a doubt, one of the most spoiled pets ever to live on this Earth.

The moral of this story is that if you feed your puppy people food, that puppy will always want people food. Don’t think that even a puppy won’t turn its nose straight up in the air if given food that it doesn’t want to eat – it will. Dogs will eat grass, sniff their own messes, and lick themselves in front of your company. But if you put some less-than-savory dog food in front of them, the dog suddenly becomes a connoisseur of cuisine – and nothing you can do will make it eat something it thinks it should not eat.

How to Prepare

If you unexpectedly find yourself with a puppy on your hands, you might be forced to throw something together in a pinch. It’s okay to give your pet special treats once in a while. And let’s be honest, you’re probably going to end up giving your puppy treats. While bacon and eggs might not be a good idea, it’s okay to give your dog some baloney or pieces of hot dog if you like. If you give the puppy real bacon, however, the puppy will never eat the fake bacon treats that you can purchase for your pet.

It’s best if you get prepared before you ever bring your puppy home. First things first, the puppy needs a little space to call its own. Perhaps a doggie bed with some toys, a food dish, and a water dish must all be laid out and made ready for the newest addition to your household. If your puppy isn’t housebroken (and in almost every case, it will not be), put down a liberal amount of newspaper in the puppy’s area. An untrained puppy is going to mess on the floor and there’s nothing you can do about that. By preparing for the worst and putting down plenty of newspaper, you might be able to save your flooring.

Have a place for your puppy to sleep. True, most puppies will grow into doggies that will sleep in bed with you, but in the beginning your puppy may not be big enough to jump into bed. You’ll have to put the puppy in your bed if that’s where you want your pet to sleep, but there is a note of caution with this. Animals that learn at a young age to sleep in your bed are always going to sleep in your bed. So you may want to have a special little bed just for your puppy.

Bringing Your Puppy Home

Your puppy won’t know that your home is its home right away. Probably the first few weeks of life have been confusing for that puppy, anyway. By the time your puppy comes home with you, it’s already been separated from its mother, brothers and sisters, and might be coming into a home where no other animals live. It’s a very traumatic experience for your puppy, and keep in mind that the puppy doesn’t quite know who you are yet.

Aquarium Online Supplies Have Made Life Simple

Wednesday, May 16th, 2007

Online aquarium stores have the advantage of being able to display thousands of high-quality freshwater, saltwater and marine reef aquarium supplies all from one convenient location, and at the lowest possible prices.

Aquariums are growing into one of the fastest moving products on the internet. The aquarium online supplies range from quality aquariums, filters, heating, pumps, and aquarium ornaments to food and feeders. This is a great advantage to a buyer in that all the aquarium supplies may be purchased from one point, with no need to trek from store to store.

This is not the only reason why the aquarium online supplies are becoming extremely popular. A further reason for the increasing popularity is the vast amount of information that is generally included on the aquarium products. This information and guidance, helps the buyer to make more of an educated decision on what to buy.

Another point to keep in mind is that the prices available from most online aquarium stores are very competitive and well the market price. This is due to the much lower cost of running an e-commerce site, as the aquarium website owner can make their prices more attractive by passing part of their commission and profits to the buyer. This will make the purchase doubly enticing to the buyer, not only does the buyer get the aquarium supplies at prices below the market rate but also able to purchase form the comfort of home.

However, remember to keep in mind the possible shipping costs that will be passed on by the aquarium online stores. If you have a local offline aquarium store, there is not really much point in ordering products from the internet. You will have the advantage of being able to regularly visit the store to keep up to date on the latest products available.

Finally, there are some aquarium products that may actual become more expensive if bought on the internet, such as glass fish tanks. This is due to the weight of these tanks and also the need to be shipped carefully. In view of this couriers therefore charge higher fees to deliver them. This is why some aquarium stores will try to avoid stocking a large selection of glass tanks as part of their aquarium online supplies.

But overall, it is normally a great advantage to purchase aquarium supplies on the internet.

The Proper Use of Dog Identification Tag

Tuesday, May 15th, 2007

Losing your dog could be a very sad experience. Dogs are more than just pets; they are also our guardians and our companions. It is said that dogs are more loyal than other animals and are in fact, even more loyal than most of us; hence, a dog is considered as man’s best friend.

No matter how we try to keep our dogs always within sight, however, they sometimes go astray. Chances are, without any form of identification, they may not be returned by those who find them and they might be gone for good. This is where the importance of a dog identification tag comes in. Since your dog cannot speak for himself, its dog identification tag shall tell the finder where to return your lost dog.

A typical dog identification tag is a flat metal tag attached to the collar, chain, rope or harness worn by the dog around its neck. It usually displays the name of the owner, his contact number or his address. It’s used to easily and quickly notify the owner when the dog is found.

In UK, affixing a dog identification tag on the dog’s collar is a legal duty. A Control of Dog Order was issued in 1992 which required all dog owners to fix on their dog a collar with a dog identification tag on it whenever it is in public places such as a public road or a public resort. The dog identification tag must have pertinent information such as the name of the dog, and the name and address of the owner so the dog can be easily and quickly returned to the owner when lost. These pieces of information may also be engraved on the collar itself or on a plate attached to the collar. A violation of such law would cost you ÂŁ2,000.

There are also exemptions to the Control of Dog Order of 1992. Not covered by the legislation are the following:

a. dogs that are officially used on by armed forces, HM Customs & Excise or the police b. dogs that are used in sport events c. dogs that are used in capturing and destroying vermin d. dogs that are used to drive or tend sheep e. dogs that are used by blind people to guide them f. dogs that are used in rescuing in the event of emergencies

In the US, using dog identification tags is not obligatory; however, many dog-friendly organizations recommend the use of such tag. Moreover, most Americans, dog lovers as they are (American Veterinary Medical Association 54% of all households in the US have at least one pet dog; 47% of them consider their pets as members of the family), feel and understand the need of using dog identification tags.

As an alternative to dog identification tags, some dog owners prefer to have their dogs tattooed as collars and dog id tags may also be lost. Today, with the emergence and advancement of RFID technology, it’s already possible to implant microchip with control numbers under the dog’s skin. This makes tracking for a lost dog easier and faster.

Facts About Heartworm in the United States

Monday, May 14th, 2007

* Canine heartworm infection occurs all across the United States. Heartworm infection has been found in pet and wild dogs in all 50 states, each of which have there own areas where the disease is an ongoing problem (these are known as “endemic” areas).

* All dogs regardless of their age, sex, or habitat are susceptible to heartworm infection. The highest infection rates (up to 45%) in dogs not maintained on heartworm preventive are seen within 150 miles of the Atlantic coast from Texas to New Jersey and along the Mississippi River and its major tributaries. Other areas of the United States have lower incidence rates (5% or less) of canine heartworm disease, though even in those states some local regions have environmental, mosquito, and dog population factors that allow a higher incidence of heartworm infection.

* Badly affected regions have heartworm infections diagnosed in dogs as young as 1 year, with most areas diagnosing infections primarily between the ages of 3 and 8 years of age.

* The infection rate in male dogs is as much as 4 times that of female dogs and dogs housed outdoors are 4 to 5 times more likely to be infected than indoor dogs.

* Although there are differences in frequency of infection for various groups of dogs, all dogs in endemic regions should be considered at risk and placed on surveillance/prevention s.

Introduction

Heartworm was once considered a parasite common in southern climates, it is now recognized as a major, global pest affecting dogs, foxes, wolves and coyotes.

Heartworm was discovered nearly a century ago in dogs, and was discovered in cats in the 1920’s. Since then scientists have devised diagnostic tests, preventives and treatments, but the disease still spreads.

When you are are visiting your local vet, you may notice posters which show the infested heart loaded with long fine spaghetti like worms, this is too remind pet owners not to gamble that their dog or cat will never be bitten by an infected mosquito. Heartworm prevention is simple with regular dosing with preventive medication. If the pet has heartworm infestation this is dangerous; untreated dogs die and treated dogs go through weeks of discomfort while the worms are killed and expelled from their bodies. Testing

Heartworms can be detected by blood test. X-rays can also detect the changes in the heart and lungs caused by the presence of adult heartworms in these organs.

Prevention

Preventive doses come in oral and topical versions, products like Heartguard, Interceptor, heartworm treatment and ProHeart are given monthly. Revolution is a new preventive applied topically. Some of these drugs also kill other parasitic worms, and Revolution also acts against fleas, ticks, and mites.

Many veterinarians including the team at Vetstop recommend a year-round heartworm prevention to guard against the occasional infected mosquito flying about in even relatively mild winters. The old saying applies; “Prevention is better than cure”.

Copyright 2006 Paul Nelson

Getting To Know The Poodle

Sunday, May 13th, 2007

Getting to know your dog starts by getting to know its breed, and that includes getting a better idea about its appearance, personality, and health requirements. Here’s what you need to know about the Poodle:The Poodle is considered one of the smartest dogs in the world. In addition, this breed is exceptionally easy to train. What many people do not know is that the Poodle has been around for centuries, originally being a large dog used for hunting. The exact origin is controversial, some historians believing this breed comes from Germany while others believe it comes from Denmark, France, or even Piedmont. Regardless, the French are now considered the official claim to fame regarding this breed, which is why sometimes the dog is referred to as the “French Poodle”.The Poodle, being a descent of the Hungarian Water Hound and Barbet, loves water. Therefore, the actual name is a derivative of the German word “Pudel, which translates to “one who plays in water.” With exceptional swimming and retrieving skills, this breed was at one time used to fetch waterfowl. To keep the dog from becoming waterlogged, giving it more flexibility to swim, the hunters would clip the coat, leaving only hair around the legs as protection from the environment. Today, we still see the Poodle clipped in this traditional fashion.Realizing just how smart the Poodle was, the French began using the breed to perform in the circus, which led even further to popularity. The large, Standard Poodle was eventually bred down to what we see more of today as the Miniature and Toy Poodle. Keep in mind that the Standard variety is still available although not as widely chosen for a pet. In addition to excellent family additions, the Poodle is a great show dog and performer. When showing, all three varieties are scored the same.The Standard Poodle is the largest of the three varieties, followed by the Miniature version and then the Toy version. All three are graceful, lively, and elegant. The Poodle is also shaped much the same, only different according to size. This breed is also a part of many hybrids to include Cockapoo (Cocker Spaniel and Poodle) and the latest, the Labradoodle (Labrador Retriever and Poodle).Physical AppearanceAll poodles have long ears that are flat and wide. The eyes are almond-shaped and the face generally has an alert expression. On this particular breed, you would find the head to be slightly rounded and the teeth have a scissor type bite. The Poodle’s feet are oval and webbed, making it a powerful swimmer. Depending on the owner, some will have the tail docked and dew claws removed.A great benefit to owning a Poodle is that this dog does not shed. Therefore, people with allergies, respiratory problems, or even people with a disability that would find cleaning up after a dog difficult would love owning this breed. The hair of the Poodle is another important aspect. The hair is curly and therefore, must be brushed and clipped on regular schedules.Typically, a Poodle would be one color such as brown, black, white, blue, apricot, or gray but you will also find parti-colors, sometimes referred to as “phantom colors”, which means black and red markings. While the hair on the Poodle’s body is tightly curled, you may find your dog’s ears curly or straight. When visiting a dog groomer, you will find there to be many different cut options. However, for show purposes, just three cuts are acceptable. These include:1. Puppy Clip2. Continental (Lion Clip)3. English Saddle ClipIf you plan to use your Poodle as a working dog and not a show dog, then you could go with any clip you like. However, most often, the hair would be kept short as a means of reducing tangles and water remaining on the animal if used for fishing or hunting. Unfortunately, if a Poodle is not properly clipped, the hair can cause serious problems. As the hair grows, it begins to cord. When this happens, it can pull on the skin, causing lesions, sores, infection, and so on. At this point, the only solution is to have the coat completely shaven off.To give you an idea as to size, the original Standard Poodle would measure more an 15 inches at the withers, the Miniature Poodle 11 to 14 inches, and the Toy, less than 11 inches. Additionally, a Toy Poodle must be 10 pounds or less to qualify for this class. Keep in mind that the FCI and AKC have slightly different regulations so you would need to follow closely to the one you wanted to use for show.Temperament and PersonalityThe Poodle is an exceptionally bright dog. The breed is active and alert, loving, and loyal. In addition, the Poodle does very well with children if socialized when young and in most cases, handles other animals quite well. This particular breed will often go to great lengths to please its master and many times, is a one-person type dog. Although the Poodle is typically mellow, they can become bored and mischievous. Therefore, it is important to exercise your pet and spend some quality time playing.You will also find the Poodle to be a sensitive dog. In fact, when caught chewing on something or getting into something he or she is not supposed to be in, you may even notice slight embarrassment. This breed is comical and makes a great watchdog. The one thing to remember is that if you find your particular Poodle is a little on the high-strung side, proper training, and socialization will reduce the risk of sapping dramatically. Then, if you have smaller children, they would need to be taught how to respect this breed, meaning no sitting on the dog, and no pulling of the ears or tail, etc.HealthPoodles will often have hyperactive tear ducts, meaning they have streaks of brown running down the eye area. Sometimes, keeping the eye clean with a cotton ball dampened with water is enough but if you find the problem to be constant, your veterinarian may prefer to check for a clog, which can be corrected. Then as mentioned, it is imperative that a Poodle have proper grooming. When buying this breed, the expense and time associated with grooming should be considered.Most Poodles will live to around 14 to 16 years of age. Although typically a healthy breed, you should know that some health risks exist, which vary depending on the variety. For instance, things such as Entropion, Cataracts, Intervertebral Disc Degeneration, Epilepsy, Legg-Perthes, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Luxating Patella, Urolithiasis, and Trichiasis are all possibilities for the Miniature and Toy Poodle.Then for the Standard Poodle, the above-mentioned risks exist along with small potential for Canine Hip Dysplasia, Addison’s Disease, Gastric Torsion, Sebaceous Adenitis, and Von Willebrand’s Disease, a hereditary protein deficiency. In addition, all varieties of the breed are predisposed for mammary tumors. With good care and regular checkups, a Poodle should live a long, healthy life.

Why Do Birds Scream?

Saturday, May 12th, 2007

Why does my bird scream?

Boy if we had THE answer we’d be writing this from our yacht. But of course I have to weigh in here. What got me thinking about the subject of “why birds scream,” is some recent web surfing.

I spend my days doing what many of you wish you could be doing, surfing the web for bird toys and parrot cages. The magic of the internet enables us to shop the world. In order for us to provide the best possible shopping experience. We look at lots of sites and products. Pricing is important but not our priority. We feel good information about parrots and general avian issues is the most important product we can offer. And we offer that for free. We like to know who’s selling what. We also like to see how well they’re selling it i.e. is the site easy to navigate. Do they offer multiple payment choices and so forth?

But I digress – So here I am on the of a national chains of pet supply products. They have an FAQ for bird ownership. Something we always applaud. Well I’m reading the list and one of the topics is Why is my bird screaming? No real explanation is offered and at the end of the paragraph they recommend taking your parrot to a vet if screaming persists.

Yikers! Screaming parrots – vets – why?

Let’s look at this logically folks, not that parrots are logical but they are creatures of habit. One of the things we learned from Michelle Karras www.thepoliteparrot.com is silence means danger! If you have a flock of wild parrots in trees (in their natural environment) or even a flock of local wild birds in your back yard. On any given sunny day a flock of birds will make a lot of noise – it’s all about FLOCK. Chirp, chirp, scream, scream. What are they communicating about? Same things we do. “Find any food lately? Yeah they had a great sale on worms about a mile from here.”

SILENCE means danger! If you’ve ever seen a hawk fly over a flock of wild birds, you swear you can hear the sound of the hawk’s wings flapping. That’s one of the reasons parrots come in so many colors. If they’re quiet and deep in a tree they are difficult to spot. When that danger passes its chirp, chirp, scream, scream. So again I ask, “is screaming a reason to run to the vet? I don’t think so.

Something we hear a lot of is - people will have a screaming bird (usually newbie’s) and the bird will scream for whatever reason. What does their human companion do? Yell SHUT UP! And what does the parrot do? SCREAM SOME MORE!

Again I fall back on my good friend logic. The bird screams, you scream back. Do you think there may be a slight chance that when you scream back the bird might be thinking “hey – this is great! Someone is finally squawking back at me “hey SCREAM, SCREAM, please scream back some more, I’m lonely you’re my flock and I need to talk to someone than you?”

Begin to see where I’m going with this grasshopper? OK so now you know one of the whys. Here’s a little tip form Michelle Karras www.thepoliteparrot.com that may work for you:

Excessive screaming is a learned behavior that we teach our birds. Covering your feathered companion with a blanket, teaches him or her that you will cover the cage when scream gets out of hand.

Yelling at a screaming parrot, gives the parrot the attention it seeks. Ignoring a screaming parrot is not the answer either. Ignoring bird’s screams could result in finding injuries too late (or water had run out). Options are to make sure all your Psittacines needs are satisfied. Large hygienic cage, clean water, fresh food, working toys. Twelve hours of sleep (uninterrupted), soft wood and other materials to chew, and plenty of exercise.

Start with a signal to stop loud parrots. Ring a cowbell (or bang a pot) in the room next to the screaming bird. They hear the bell (sound), they stop to listen, Show up from the other room while they are quiet to praise and reward. Set them up to succeed. Use a time when you know they are quite loud. Distract them with a new noise in the next room. As soon as they stop to listen, appear and praise.

Lengthen the time between the signal and your appearance each time. Try and take a whole day at first and only work with the parrot and the screaming. Initial rewards should be substantial, a known favorite treat. Use the same signal just before feeding fresh food. Wait until the parrot is noisy; give the signal, praise, and feed.

Not all parrots will quiet down for the same signal so you may have to try several noises before finding the one that works for you.

Note: Do not use your voice. They may try to mimic you.

Scream time is a time during the day that you allow your parrots to be noisy. This should be given somewhere between 3p.m. and 7p.m. each day. Encourage your parrots by playing stimulating music. Dance, sing or scream along with them. Scream time should last no less than 15minutes and no more than 1/2 hour each day.

Some parrots enjoy screaming to the vacuum, this is fine to encourage but play music as well. Find music that your parrot gets excited over. Use that same song every day for scream time. Change the music from time to time but be consistent overall. When Scream time is over, lower the music volume Talk your parrot down. Lower the music slowly, turn it off, and play their relaxation code music. Give them afternoon snacks when “cool down” is over.

Birds will wait for their “Scream Time” because they know they will be rewarded for their patience.