Archive for April, 2007

Teaching the Dog to Focus

Friday, April 20th, 2007

A dog that can focus his attention completely on you is a dog that can truly learn and is a pleasure to train. When you embark on training your dog anything at all, first make sure that you can get his attention and hold his attention. There is a method to do this and if you follow this, you will find that all activities from that point on that you are training will be much easier to achieve. A dog that will focus completely on you is a dog that you can count on to pay attention when you speak to him. If he is distracted by a cat, or a car, or something in the environment and is not “listening” to you then it is always more difficult to train your dog to do anything.

To train your dog to focus on you, prepare yourself first with plenty of treats that are absolutely irresistible to the dog. The best treats are nuked hot dogs. To “nuke” a hot dog, slice it in thin slices and throw it in the microwave on high for two or three minutes until it is quite brown and curled and even slightly burnt. Let this cool and you have a dry crisp treat that will not get your pockets greasy and will always make your dog happy. If your dog is on a diet or even if he is not, one thing you must remember about treats is that is you over-do this your dog can easily become obese. To avoid this, don’t feed him as much at his regular mealtimes when you are training on a regular basis. If you are giving him a half a cup of treats, then take away a half cup of his regular ration of dog food.

Now, for training the dog to “watch”, here is what you do. You will start by getting the dog in front of you, either sitting or standing and say the dog’s name sharply and in a commanding but friendly tone. Immediately offer him a treat. Do this once or twice. Then the third time, bring the treat up quickly just in front of your own nose, tell the dog to “watch” and as soon as he looks at you (for his eyes will follow the movement of the treat), then tell him “good dog” and give him the treat. And of course, don’t forget the magic words: “what a good dog!!” Praise with your voice is more important than anything else! Repeat this several times. Later in the day, repeat this again. Add in movement of your hand with the treat…back to his face and up to your nose, again. Soon you will see that each time you say his name and the word “watch” he will look at you. Do this many times during the next few weeks often with a treat and often without a treat. He will get so that he watches the movement of your hand regardless of whether or not it has a treat within. Continue this exercise often throughout the next few weeks and in no time at all, you will have a dog that will immediately look towards you when you speak his name and when you tell him watch. When you see that he is consistently looking at you when you ask him to…you know that you have taught him how to focus.

Anything you teach after that point will be much easier to get through to your dog, for you will have his total attention.

Why Rats are Becoming Popular as Pets!

Thursday, April 19th, 2007

Despite all the bad press, rats are increasingly being chosen as pets. Never mind the popular images of domestic damsels in distress climbing on kitchen chairs while shrieking “Eek! A rat!” Forget all the rumors you heard about filthy vermin scurrying about, populating sewers and spreading diseases. If you ever experience the privilege of taming, keeping, and befriending domesticated or fancy rats, you will quickly forget all the urban rat legends you ever heard.

Interestingly enough, not all cultures fostered such distaste for these rodents of a species called Rattus norvegicus. Historically, rats were loved and even revered in regions throughout Asia where folklore paints a favorable picture of intelligent, playful, and mischievous creatures.

The earliest documented case of rats bred in captivity comes from 19th Century England. Over 100 years of selective breeding has resulted in today’s domesticated rat, no more similar to its wild predecessor as dogs or cats would be to theirs. Today, fancy rats continue to be bred and many are even trained to compete in shows.

As tame as they are, these furry little animals have retained their natural tendencies to dig, climb, swim, and search… and of course, to chew. Therefore, the more “rat-proofed” your home is, the more play space your pet will have.

Contrary to what many may believe, rats are clean, evidenced by the fact that they will readily (and perhaps obsessively) groom themselves and each other. In fact, grooming is an integral part of their social behavior.

When kept properly, today’s rats are typically docile, tame, and adaptable to new people and environments. They will not bite. However when extremely threatened, as in cases of pregnancy or abuse, they may resort to such defensive behavior. Young rats may occasionally nip on fingertips, particularly if they smell food on them. The bottom line, however, is that compared with other small animals such as hamsters and gerbils, rats bite far less.

Owners have found rats to be highly intelligent creatures that are easily trained. Your rat will learn to approach you when its name is called, and for the right treat, it can learn basic commands such as “sit” and “stay.” The patient and persistent rat owner of an agile and eager-to-please pet may be delighted to see his furry friend successfully complete an obstacle course of bridges, tunnels and hoops.

Although this may take weeks, even months, of consistent training the sense of accomplishment can be very rewarding for both owner and rattie alike. They have proven themselves to be intelligent enough to learn a variety of things… right down to litter-training!

In time, rats can become quite fond of their owners and will welcome a ride inside a cozy pocket or perched on a shoulder. Some rats will even lick or “groom” their beloved human friends.

It has often been said that rats combine the good aspects of other pets. They offer the friendliness and unconditional love that a dog gives you. They share the cuteness and inexpensive cost of mice and hamsters. They’re as clean as cats. And they’re among the most intelligent of any animal, meaning they’ll surprise you with all sorts of entertaining antics.

One of the few drawbacks is that rats have a typically short lifespan of two to three years on average, during which time they may be prone to tumors or respiratory infections. However, if the right precautions are taken, rats can live full healthy lives.

Keep in mind that a short life doesn’t change the connection between you and your rat. It’s still satisfying to have them as pets even if it’s for a shorter period than you would hope. As Alfred Lord Tennyson put it, ‘Tis better to have loved and lost, Than never to have loved at all.

By taking the time to learn all about pet rats, you can be assured of a positive rat-raising experience!

The History of the Collie

Wednesday, April 18th, 2007

There are few who do not know about the breathtaking Collies and their extreme intelligence, which makes them one of the most popular breeds in American. Everyone knows and loves Lassie and still reads the Collie books written in the 1920s and ’30s by Albert Payson Terhune.

The origin of the Collie is not fully known, but their appearance signifies a relation to the wild dog. Although, they were produced from the old working dogs, the Collie is nearly a distinct breed of their own. They are considered to be the superior in instinct and intelligence to all other breeds, and are actually born perfectly trained for service. The Collie dog makes an excellent sporting dog, and can be taught to do the work of the Pointer and the Setter, as well as that of the Water Spaniel and the Retriever. They are extremely clever with excellent noses perfect for hunting, guarding, yet they are great companion dogs.

The Collie is one of the finest show dogs. By most, they are considered to be the most respectful and courteous dogs and are actually said to be a joy to train. They are a graceful and physically beautiful dog breed that surpasses most breeds at this time. They are large enough to demand the authority of a heard of sheep yet make ideal pets.

The Collie is a lively dog poised with stamina, intelligence and freedom. Their gentleness makes them perfect therapy dogs. They are the perfect addition to any family whether for service or companionship.

Dog Nose Depigmentation

Tuesday, April 17th, 2007

Owning your own dog can bring such joy to your life, as well as it being a loyal companion to you, too. People around the world love to take great pride in looking after their dogs and doing everything they can for them. However, from time to time, things happen that are completely out of the owners control and the dog may have some problems that may need some special attention. One of these problems includes Nasal Pigmentation problems.

Nasal Pigmentation Problems

There are several problems that can occur with nasal pigmentation in dogs and some are more common than others. Some frequent Nasal Pigmentation problems include:

Dudley Nose

You may notice that the pigmentation in your dog’s nose has changed spontaneously for no apparent reason. If so, there is no need to be alarmed as this condition is likely to be Dudley nose and it is not known to be the cause of any disease or anything serious.

The nasal planum will look normal with the only difference being that the color is slightly lighter than what it is supposed to be. Basically, it happens when a young dog can start off with a black nose, but as they get slightly older, the nose changes to brown and sometimes pink or white. No one knows what causes dogs to suffer from this condition or what really triggers it. It is just something that happens spontaneously and it does not cause the dog any problems at all.

Vitiglio

Vitiglio is a condition that is more common in certain breeds of dogs and it is a depigmentation of the skin in patches of white hair or pale skin. The problem with Vitiglio is that it can actually affect the nasal planum, too. Also, the thing is, there are no treatments that have been made available to help treat this condition. So really, the best thing that you can do is to apply some sun block to the nose when they are exposed to the sun. It can occur in certain breeds such as Poodles, Pointers, Irish Setters, Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherds, Samoyeds and Afghan Hounds.

Snow Nose

A term called snow nose is applied to dogs that lose the pigmentation of their nose during the winter months, but it darkens again in the spring and summer months. Something that has not been proven to work but may help is vitamin E and it is completely safe to try the dog on it. The condition itself is thought to be caused by the lack of sunlight, which is why the color returns in the spring and summer months. One thing to keep in mind is that complete depigmentation does not occur in this condition. So, if your dog does suffer from complete depigmentation, it is not snow nose and you should consult your local veterinarian to get a true diagnosis.

Lupus Erythematosus

This medical condition can cause pigmentation problems and there are two main types of the condition that can affect dogs. As with Vitiglio, Lupus Erythematosus can affect certain breeds and with this condition it is usually German Shepherds, Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs and also crossbreeds. As well as the dog losing pigment on its nose, you may also notice inflammation and scaling on its face as well as lesions on the ears. If you do notice any of the symptoms, it is likely to be Lupus Erythematosus and not just a simple pigmentation condition that causes no problems whatsoever.

Pigmentation problems are common in certain breeds of dog and, usually, they do not cause many problems. To protect the nose, it is possible to purchase creams that may help to stop it from becoming dry and sore. Vitamin E cream is particularly good and many people find that it really does work for their dogs. The only real problem that pigmentation problems usually cause is in the show ring. Many breeds will be disqualified for not reaching the breed standard because of lack of color in the nose.

Your veterinarian will be able to advise you of the best treatment for the problem. Remember that it is not usually a problem, but any change in your dog’s health is always worth checking out.

Care and Feeding of Your Horse

Monday, April 16th, 2007

Even though your horse is a large animal, it has a very small stomach and intestines. They cannot hold huge quantities of food at a time. They require their food well spread over the day, may be four or more times a day.

Major problems with horses are that they cannot vomit. They have a group of muscles around the food pipe connected to the stomach. This group works as a one-way valve. When food passes down the food pipe into the stomach the valve relaxes, but the valve squeezes after that and does not let food go back up.

Hence, the food a horse eats, has to pass through the entire digestive system. Due to this reason colic is a common problem with horses.

Grain is a regular food for horses and the quantity of grain to be fed depends on the quality of grain, size of the horse and how hard working it is. Five to Ten pounds of grain a day is what a hard worked or a larger horse should get. Lesser feed can be given to a smaller or less worked one.

Among grains, oats are standard feed which helps in digestion. Corn is another grain that is a good source of energy and fat. Molasses are added to the feed mix for flavor and carbohydrate needs. The feed should be checked for traces of certain minerals essential for good nutrition like calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, iodine, etc.

Salt is another important thing for horses similar to human beings. One to two ounces of salt should be mixed in the feed, if the commercial feed does not contain the same. It can also be given in a block form and left in the stable or pasture.

If the feed mixture contains all the nutritious goodness then the horse owner only has to monitor the quantity and time of feed.

Hay is another staple food for horses. The quantity of hay a horse should be fed depends upon its body weight. For instance, for 100 pounds body weight, a pound of hay is good enough. This quantity also depends on the quality of hay and the quantity of bodywork a horse does. Best thing is to let a horse to choose to eat throughout the day freely so that it improves its digestive system.

An adult horse’s body comprises of 50% water and the baby horse or foal has 80% water. Horses need water between 5 and 15 gallons in a day. Horse watering should be done very cautiously because if watered at the wrong time can take away its life. If a horse has undergone heavy workout, cold water should not be given immediately. The horse has to be first walked out so as to cool down. When the breathing and body temperatures become normal, it should be provided with water. It should not drink in large gulps too. So, the best thing is to let the horse drink water from time to time from the freely available source so that he is not overly thirsty at any point of time. Over watering at any time should be avoided since it cannot vomit. Otherwise, it would feel uncomfortable that might be the cause for choking.

Copyright (c) 2006

How To Cut Your Cat’s Claws Without Losing Your Skin In The Process

Sunday, April 15th, 2007

Cat lovers are known to pamper their pets and you are probably no different. Your kitty has all the latest toys and comforts including self-cleaning litter box, a treat dispenser, cat grass, every cat toy known to the pet shop owner, and a variety of scratching posts but kitty wants to use the sofa instead.

Nothing you have done to try to deter her from scratching as worked and you are at your wits end. You have tried all the sprays and even the double sided tape that is supposed to scare her away due to the stickiness but all she does is walk over a little and continue to sharpen her claws on a different spot. So what are you to do? Does the concept of trimming your cat’s claws scare you to death? Let me show you how to make it easier.

First off, don’t try to rush the process of trimming your cat’s nails, all you will get out of that is a ticked off cat and lots of bites and scratches! Take the time to let her get used to having her claws touched and rubbed. You should do this often and not just went you want to cut her nails, if not the cat will associate the touching with getting her nails cut and you do not want that. Do a little research on the technique so that you are comfortable with it. You probably know that there is a blood vessel that runs in the claws that not only hurts if nicked, but will also bleed badly. A wound in that area is highly susceptible to infection as well due to her digging in the bacteria filled litter box.

Before you begin to actually do the clipping, make sure that you have all the things you think you will need. Of course, the most important part of your tool kit will be the clippers. You need a good quality pair that are only for the cat. Get some guillotine style surgical steel clippers from a pet specialty store and try to get some that have an extra blade. Practice a little with them before the live event so that you are comfortable using them.

Next you need a large towel to wrap your cat in case she doesn’t chill out and calm down. This way you can keep her wrapped up and work on one paw at a time. You may need to draft a friend or roommate into helping you if you have particularly unruly kitty. Finally, you want to be sure that you have a good light source so that you can see the blood vessel in the claw and avoid cutting it. It is best to leave them a little long than to cut them to the quick.

I am not giving you a guarantee that following my advice will make you successful in getting your cat’s claws trimmed, if you have one of those arrogant kitties that have a mind of their own it may take you several tries over a period of days to get them all trimmed. Just remember, there is no law that says you have to get them all done in one sitting, if you get one done that’s a step in the right direction. If you insist on trying to cut the claws and your cat is freaking out she will run from you the next time she sees you with the clippers.

Your Child’s First Pet

Saturday, April 14th, 2007

Tired of hearing your child whine about wanting a pet? All parents seem to have this problem at one time or another. Many children want a pet, and it’s a perfect way to teach children responsibility. If you’ve decided to give your children the opportunity to have a pet of their own, you just have to figure out which pet is the right pet! There are a few smaller, easier to care for animals that make great first pets. These are typically a bit more affordable than bigger animals such as dogs or cats. However, with any pet, the owner’s personality affects the decision.

Gerbils make great pets for smaller children, as they are active during the day and are extremely curious and friendly. Gerbils are actually desert animals. They are very clean animals, which makes cleaning up after them a lot simpler. For a young child’s first pet, these are perfect! Gerbils are very social animals, so a pair is definitely the way to go with these animals. However, be sure they are not mates, otherwise you’d better be prepared to take care of lots of little gerbils! A large aquarium-style tank with a deep layer of wood shavings makes for a perfect home for these little creatures, as they love to tunnel and dig. To keep them (as well as your child) entertained, tunnel-type toys are great! Gerbil food is relatively inexpensive and can be purchased at any pet store. They also enjoy the occasional bit of lettuce or cheese. Gerbils usually live up to three years.

Guinea pigs are good first pets, as they don’t scratch and can be gently handled. Like gerbils, they’re social creatures, so a pair is preferred. Guinea pigs are very timid, so they need lots of places to hide in their cage. An aquarium-style tank works well for guinea pigs as well, as long as they have a grazing area and places to burrow. Guinea pigs need a daily diet that his high in fiber and vitamin C. Guinea pigs live up to six years.

Most people aren’t entirely keen on the idea of keeping mice, but if you’re looking to get one as a first pet, you should keep in mind that, like the others, they are social. Two to three female mice are the best way to go as males tend to fight and produce a much stronger smell. Cages must be cleaned two to three times a week. A wire-mesh cage works best for mice, as they need a well-ventilated living space, with tunnels and other toys. Mice need a lot of things to gnaw on, such as dog biscuits.

Though they generally have a shorter life span than gerbils or guinea pigs, mice are by far the highest maintenance. However, any of these pets are perfect for a child’s first pet, and what better way to give your child a lesson in responsibility?

Can My Pet Fish Get Me Or My Kids Sick?

Friday, April 13th, 2007

Pet fish, both salt water and fresh water varieties, can get you sick from a strain of bacteria related to human tuberculosis. Although infection from this bacteria is rare, certain precautions should be taken when cleaning and dealing with aquarium water, fish and products contaminated with aquarium water. This disease is very dangerous for those with a weakened immune system.

The layman term for this fairly rare fish tank disease is Fish Tank Granuloma. The scientific name for this bacteria is mycobacterium marinum. If you think that you or your child has been exposed to or is suffering from this disease, your smart move is to consult your physician who can help pinpoint the cause and prescribe proper treatment. This article is for your additional information only. I feel that it is always smart to do your homework before you consult your physician. The more help you can offer your physician on his diagnosis of a problem the better.

The absolutely fist line of defense against this infection is to wear waterproof gloves when cleaning your fish tank or dealing with fish tank water. Even if you wore gloves, wash your hands and arms thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap when you start and when you are done, just to be safe. This disease often enters the body through cuts and abrasions or any compromise of the skin so be particularly aware of this. Never drink or taste your aquarium water for any reason.

The symptoms of Fish Tank Granuloma are wounds that take a very long time to heal. Generally these wounds are on the hands, arms or fingers. After the wound closes, there may be some soreness and small nodules (called granulomas) around the wound. If this disease enters the bloodstream, nodules may form in the veins close to the original wound. Because this disease is very slow growing, these nodules may take 2-3 weeks and even up to several months to show up. The infected wound may become ulcerous and close lymph nodes may become swollen. This disease may heal itself over time. Your doctor may be interested to know that this bacterium is gram-positive which means it will retain a crystal violet dye for identification purposes.

It should be noted that this disease may also be picked up at incorrectly chlorinated pools, from any fish (uncooked), and from swimming in fresh and salt water in many parts of the world, including the United States. Generally, a cut, abrasion or wound must be present along with the bacteria.

Treatment varies and as of now, there is no set rule to which regimen of antibiotics works best. It can take a long time to rid oneself of this disease. It can take 3 months to almost a year of an antibiotic regimen. Often combinations of antibiotics are used such as tetracyclines, ethambutol, rifampicin, trimethoprim, and/or sulfamethoxazole. Some physicians use Rifampin + Ethambutol, Rifampin + Clarithromycin or Minocycline by itself.

What Do You Get for the Dog Who Has Everything? How About a Little Bling Bling?

Thursday, April 12th, 2007

It’s a must-have for the well-appointed dog, and pet jewelry isn’t just for the small breeds anymore. Today’s dog jewelry comes in a wide variety of styles to suit dogs of all sizes, breeds, and genders. Think your rugged male St. Bernard would look silly wearing jewelry? Guess again! There’s something out there for every pet, and with all these choices . . . what’s a dog to do?

There are basically four main categories in pet jewelry: necklaces, branklets, charms, and barrettes.

Necklaces come in a wide variety of materials and styles, and just like the human version are designed to be worn around the neck. Many of them have sterling silver clasps for durability, and rugged construction and style to withstand the rigors of a dog’s life. Costume jewelry is cute, inexpensive, and you can buy enough of it to match your own outfit or the whims of the day. Costume jewelry is usually made out of synthetic materials and can mimic crystals, pearls, gemstones, and other beads. In a Southwestern mood? Put your pooch in a leather and turquoise necklace. Looking for something dainty for your toy breed? Try a personalized rhinestone necklace. Does your dog have a larger . . . er . . . bone structure? There are chunkier versions out there designed specifically for bigger dogs.

If you are looking for a piece for a special occasion, pamper your pet with a piece of fine jewelry. There are custom-made creations made of fine materials for owners who are looking for something really unique. Pet necklaces made of Swarovski Austrian crystal are particularly popular, and come in a variety of styles and colors.

Branklets are pet jewelry’s latest offering. A branklet gives the owner a choice. Put it above your pet’s front paw knuckle, and you have a bracelet. Put it above your pet’s hind leg knee, and you have an anklet. Branklets come in a variety of styles and materials—from dainty jeweled leather to more casual denim, from chunky studded leather to Southwestern—and are appropriate for dogs of all sizes and breeds. For those seeking a really put-together look, branklets often come with matching collars.

Charms are a more understated form of pet jewelry, but can really say a lot about the personality of the pet—or its owner. Charms are designed to attach to the collar and can be understated, humorous, practical, sporty, or regal. Have a dog with an attitude? Help him express it with a pewter charm that says “talk to the tail” or “spoiled rotten.” If you are looking for something practical, try an understated charm with your dog’s name. Charms are ideal for male dogs, as there are lots of sports- and hobby-related charms to choose from.

Barrettes are another form of pet jewelry that is popular, though they are less versatile than the other types of dog adornments. First of all, they don’t work for short-haired dogs, are not practical for outside dogs, and for male dogs, well, we won’t even go there! However, barrettes are very cute on smaller indoor breeds and lap dogs with plenty of hair.

Pet jewelry is lots of fun and a great way to express your personality and that of your pet. Bring on the bling bling!

Training a Rescued Older Dog

Wednesday, April 11th, 2007

It is a widely held misconception that you cannot train an older dog. But the fact is, dogs do not have the capacity to hold and understand what they are being taught until they are 4 months old. Training a dog needs consistent effort and a disciplined approach. You must use the same gestures, body language, and voice commands every time to send across the message consistently. Using different commands for the same activity confuses your dog and makes the training effort worthless.

People usually shy away from adopting an older dog, as they believe the owner has left the dog at the shelter because of some fault in the pet. On the contrary, in most cases it just the opposite. People usually leave their dogs because of their own problems, or they may be no longer be able to care for the dog. It does not matter if you get a pup or an older dog to your house. All dogs can be trained, and older dogs typically have some basic obedience training. Dogs are descendants of wolves, and have carried over some of their characteristics through evolution. This makes them a pack animal. They like to be a part of a group, and your family is their pack. When your dog arrives, you should send a firm message that you are a leader of this pack.

The methods of training do not change much. An advantage to training a young adult dog, is that they are physically more developed and can be made to repeat things and undergo training for longer period of time, compared to puppies.

In extreme cases if you adopt an older dog who has had no previous training, you may need to consult with a trainer or a specialist in dog behaviour. You can then go on with the same routine as that of training a young dog, but with more patience and perseverance. Always remember dogs don’t understand a word you say. They don’t understand English. It is only your gestures and movements that send a signal to your dog to react in a certain manner. To do this you must play the game of action and reward to make your dog do things you want them to do.

Whatever you do never exhibit impatience, and anger to your dog. He may have had several owners, and will need time and your companionship to adjust to the household, and adapt to the new rules.