Archive for April, 2007

The Biggest Ugly Dog

Monday, April 30th, 2007

The biggest, ugliest dog ever seen at Westminster made its debut in 2005 and instantly made a hit with the crowd. His large lumbering feet seemed to be twice the size of what any feet on any dog ought to be….and the pendulous flopping jowls and undulating flaps of skin which wobbled and waved beneath his chin as he moved were a sight to behold. Huge streams of slobber dripped from his jowls as he stood before the Judge. The world had just been introduced to the Neopolitan Mastiff (Mastino Neopolitano)

The Neopolitan is a Mastiff that is said to be one of the most ancient of breeds, a real relic that goes back to the Roman Empire in its heyday. This is an immensely bulky dog giving the impression of great power and strength. His body is covered with loose skin which hangs in wrinkles and folds, especially on the brisket, chest and head. The head on the dog is huge, the skull is two thirds as deep as the muzzle and the muzzle is broad with widely flaring “open” nostrils and deep jowls. The ears are small and nearly always cropped and the tail is tapered and short. The Neopolitan in movement seems to be even more massive and lumbering, appearing much like a slowly moving and thoughtful bear as it gaits. The legs appear short even though the dog is relatively tall, at 26-28 inches, because of the depth of his massive chest, which extends to well below the elbow.

In the history of the breed, it is believed that he was one of the fighting dogs that were used in the Gladiator battles of wild animals fought for the entertainment of the Roman crowds. The wrinkles around the neck served to protect the chest and throat from the bites of predatory animals and the dog’s massive and punishing jaws were brutal weapons. In the middle ages , after the downfall of the Roman Empire, nearly all of the Mastiff breeds were again used in another type of battle, in the pits, fighting against other dogs for sport and wagering. Throughout Europe and Great Britain, dog fights were a huge entertainment and were quite popular. Gradually the terrier and “pitbull” breeds replaced the larger Mastiff breeds in this sport and the Mastiff became more useful as a family and property guarding dog. Actually, the Neopolitan Mastiff, (and nearly all the Mastiff breeds) do not possess the temperament to START a fight, however they of course make a strong and fearsome foe when they are inclined of necessity to protect themselves.

Because they are not naturally inclined to be aggressive, they are loyal and affectionate companion dogs, being good house dogs, except for their innate messiness in terms of slobber and drool. The Neopolitan Mastiff of the modern world has a large number of fans. He is a dog whose ugliness is almost endearing. The old saying “he has a face only a mother could love” is definitely true of this breed.

Sneaking into Hotels: How To Outfox the Front Desk Dragon-Lady to Get Your Pet in the Room With You

Sunday, April 29th, 2007

I’ll bet I’ve snuck into some of the best hotels in the world. You name them in Orlando, Miami, Boca Raton, Seattle, Toronto, Houston, Denver, Aspen, Portland, Vancouver, Whistler, or San Antonio…I’ve been there.With my dogs and ferrets, that is. Yes, I must confess that at one time, as I traveled around North America, with two toy poodles, later with two ferrets, I had no choice but to sneak them into hotels, motels, inns, and resorts when traveling for both business and pleasure. In those days, it was tricky work, especially with the two toy poodles. My wife had to distract the front desk personnel so I could sneak in a back door, zip down the hall to the room we had just checked into, then in a flash glide into the room, calm them down, pleading with the younger one, not to bark. Whew!Spenser, the little barker, always was a yappy cuss. He gave me no end of anxiety. Katy was older, wiser, and almost Queen-like.

She understood that she didn’t need to exert her authority over everyone and everything around her, so she was mostly quiet. Sometimes, we had to wait for nightfall to provide more cover. We would reconnoiter the surroundings, check out all the available entry points, calculate the distance from the entrance to our room, or even choose a room by specific number when checking in, because we knew it was closest to the entrance in the back parking lot. This ’scoping out’ exercise was not just to get them into the hotel, but also to facilitate the night pee and poop breaks too. I’ll never forget the Saturday night of my 50th birthday. We were in the little town of Ouray, Colorado. It’s half way between Durango and Montrose on highway 550. Ouray is named after a famous Indian Chief in the area, and advertises itself as the “Switzerland of America”. It is a neat little spot in a circular canyon, surrounded by immense vertical cliffs. There are not that many hotels or motels in town, so we had to quickly pick one that was a bit back from the main road through town, so we would not be seen by passersby, who might blow the whistle.

This incident is special in my memory, since, as I said, it was my 50th, and we were planning on a nice celebration dinner in a restaurant on the main drag. But after nightfall, it was starting to get cold, so we didn’t dare leave the two poodles in the vehicle, since they would get cold and might start to whine. The woman who owned or managed this motel was a real ‘dragon lady’. She had accusingly asked me three different times if I had pets. I knew that if she heard them in the room, we were toast.

It took a while to get them both calmed down and we took the chance of going out for dinner. It worked, since we weren’t thrown out when we returned. But around midnight, I had to take them both out for the final constitutional. We had been forced onto the second floor, a walk-up stairs (I did the walking, holding one in each arm) and this was trickier in the dark of the back stairwell. I nearly fell forward, flat on my face, twice tripping over my own feet. I made it, by sheer luck, got the necessary business conducted, and then safely back into our room, without being seen. When dawn arrived, with full light, we had to sneak them out of this hotel, quickly, so this woman was not chasing us down the street. She looked and sounded like someone who would. I didn’t want to press my luck or push her overly-officious, little Napoleonic-like buttons. We got the entire vehicle packed carefully – that means I did it all, while my wife kept the two of them quiet as mice – and then in a flash, with one each in our arms, the two of us raced for the car, fired up the engine, and shot out of there by way of a back street, burning rubber, before the dragon lady could ever know. Sneaking ferrets into lodging establishments is much easier.

Ferrets are prized as pets, especially in condos and apartments. They don’t bark or meow or make any noise. All poop breaks are conducted within the confines of their cage. We would carry them in a nice ‘Sherpa’ bag (meant for small dogs or cats) and they were just fine. However,standing there lying like some impersonator to the front desk clerk, is not a thing of which I am proud. This anxiety and extra stress has now disappeared. I discovered Pets Can Stay.com. This is a unique pet-friendly web site and free travel service, where hundreds of lodging establishments that welcome and honor pets allow you to stay in the same room with your pets. Not every hotel can join this group. To become a member of their system, each establishment must adhere to certain pet and guest-oriented standards that ensure the traveling pet owners’ best interests, and those of her or his pet(s). Sure I know that there are hundreds of “pet-friendly online directories,” but how do you know what you’ll get until you arrive? What ‘surprises’ are waiting? How will you know for sure that the standards of accommodation you seek for both you and your pet(s) will be met?

To my way of thinking, Pets Can Stay provides some “quality assurance” in that aside from the website, and the services they provide, the Pets Can Stay certification logo provides travelers with “peace of mind” by letting them know that this particular lodging establishment will provide them and their pet with excellent hospitality and service. With this company I have no anxiety regarding what I will find when I get there. This means a lot to me and thousands who travel with their pets. The very best part is I no longer have to fight the hotel dragon ladies of North America. I no longer have to sneak around like a member of the 82nd Airborne on night maneuvers. It’s a big sigh of relief, and just one less nasty problem to worry about when traveling.

©Copyright, Roy MacNaughton, 2006

Dog Fences: The Key to Happy Neighbors

Saturday, April 28th, 2007

Dogs are one of the most popular pet in the United States today. We spend lots of money on them, pamper them and are very devoted to our four legged “children.” Dogs require a high level of responsibility, they need to be fed, walked and taken to the vet. Dogs also need to be kept safe and taught to be good neighbors.

The easiest way for a loving dog owner to keep their precious pet safe is to install a dog fence. There are several types of fences available on the market today, these fences act as a barrier, keeping your pet inside your yard. Chain link and privacy fences are the more traditional choices for keeping dogs (as well as children) safely in their yards. Pet safe invisible fences, also known as wireless fences are gaining in popularity with many dog owners.

There are advantages and disadvantages to traditional well as to the newer style of dog fences. Traditional chain link and wooden privacy fences offer a physical barrier to keep your dog in your yard and other animals or people out. These fences can be expensive to install and the wooden ones will need regular maintenance to keep looking good. In addition, many, many dogs learn to either dig under or climb over a traditional fence.

The newer wireless pet containment systems, also known as invisible fences also have advantages and disadvantages associated with them. This type of dog fence offers the owner a system that keeps the pet in the yard, but doesn’t keep out other animals or people, which could leave your pet vulnerable. These fences can also be expensive to install, but they don’t “break up” the look of any landscaping. This is especially important with homeowners associations restricting the use of traditional style fences. One big disadvantage to an invisible fence is that if the wire gets broken, there is nothing to keep your dog in its yard, except its training. It is very important when using this type of fence to train your dog properly and keep up on regular maintenance; this is will ensure that if a break occurs, it can be fixed as soon as possible.

Another very pressing issue for dog owners is the fact that dogs bark. Some dogs only bark when necessary, other dogs bark at absolutely everything. This is more of an issue if you live in a neighborhood where people are more likely to complain, or if you leave your dog outside for long periods of time.

There are many reasons that will make a dog bark, other animals, people or the want to come in the house. It is important to teach your dog as a puppy a command to stop barking. By teaching a puppy this type of command, the issue of barking can be better controlled, although not completely eradicated.

If the reason for the dog bark is boredom, or the want to come in the house, the installation of a dog door can virtually eliminate the barking. Dog door come in an array of styles and prices. They range from a standard hole cut in a door covered with plastic, to a more high tech version such as the automatic dog door. This dog door works in conjunction with a transmitter that is placed on the dogs’ collar, allowing only your dog to enter your house.

As pet owners we want the best for our companion, the use of a dog fence and perhaps even a dog door will allow our pets and ourselves to live in harmony (most of the time) with our neighbors and friends.

A Chinchilla? What?

Friday, April 27th, 2007

When I tell people that I own a chinchilla, their initial reaction is usually “Huh?” People hardly know anything about chinchillas other than they are rodents, but there is so much more. I have had fish, hamsters, lizards and dogs, but my chinchilla has been my most interesting pet to raise so far.

A chinchilla is a rodent that upon first look resembles a rabbit with a bushy tail. A chinchilla is much more active than a pet rabbit, though. While they do hop like rabbits, they are much more agile jumpers and are not afraid to jump from high ledges. As an owner it is important to note this when handling a chinchilla. You want to hold them firmly but gently, as to not hurt them and not give them the chance to jump out of your arms and risk hurting themselves. They tend to enjoy being cupped against your chest or stomach which provides both comfort and safety to the animal.

Like any animal living in a cage, chinchillas need a chance to run free once in a while. This should be done in the house, either under your supervision or in a safe setting. Often I put my chinchilla in a hamster ball so she can get some exercise without getting into trouble. It also is a good way to protect your small animals from other animals that might cause problems, like dogs.

If left to roam on their own, there are hardly any places safe from your chinchilla’s expeditions. They are very adventurous animals and are always looking for a new toy to chew on. Often this is wood or electrical wires, though plastics, papers and other reachable materials are not out of the question. The floor should be checked carefully before letting your pet out for their exercise. Electrical wires should be lifted off the ground and out of the chinchilla’s reach.

You may think that you can keep up with the chinchilla and that there is no need to take such precautions, but they can be very sneaky animals when need be. They are easily timid if not use to their owners and will instinctively find a safe place out of your reach, usually under a large chair or behind a huge piece of furniture.

The biggest problem with chinchillas is stocking up on the right pet supplies. Most small, local pet stores don’t carry chinchilla specific items, even if they have sold the pets in the past. This was the case with my chinchilla. The most essential chinchilla specific item is their dust bath. This can be easily found in many stores though as usually a common item to see.

Chinchilla specific toys and food can be rare, however. It may run out and more stock may take weeks or months to come in. Do not worry. Chinchillas love many things that gerbils, hamsters, rabbits and even parrots do. They really enjoy wood blocks to chew on, as do all rodents since it helps keep their teeth healthy and perfect length. Chinchillas are very active even in their cage, and wooden ledges for them to climb and jump around on is wonderful too. They also enjoy a nice shelter within their cage, usually some plastic house or igloo you can easily find.

Chinchilla are quite unique animals. While many needs can be similar to a rabbit or hamster, they have a much more wild and adventurous personality that can keep you on the go when taking care of them. They are very affectionate too and can be just as comforting as a dog or cat. If you haven’t considered buying one before, it is a nice possibility to look into. Once you hold a chinchilla and feel its soft fur nudge into you with its own version of a hug, you’ll never want to put it down.

Spotting the Deer While Trailing

Thursday, April 26th, 2007

Some deer that a hunter has trailed really gave him troubles when they dive into the water because it is very difficult to track again from where they come out of the water. The deer also uses some tricks to throw the hunter off the trail. In this article you will get some tips on how to spot the deer while trailing.

Deer will sometimes take to water in an attempt to lose the hunter. When they follow brooks, it is a simple matter for the hunter to watch the shorelines in order to find the spot where they emerge from the water. When they enter a pond or lake, the trailer is very apt to assume that the deer have crossed over it. Deer seldom do this except at a narrow place on a large body of water. Usually they will swim or wade along the shore until they think that they have thrown the follower off the trail and then they leave the water.

I was trailing one day when two dogs entered the chase and drove a buck into a nearby lake. When I arrived at the shore, the dogs had abandoned the chase. I walked along the shore of the lake for about two hundred yards until I found where the deer had left the water and I resumed trailing. Incidentally, that was the only deer I ever followed that failed to give me any warning when it was about to lie down. It ran for almost a half-mile in almost a straight line, and then dropped to the ground to rest. When I jumped him, it was so unexpected that I failed to get a shot. These three tricks, with variations, are about all that a deer will use in trying to throw the hunter off the trail.

One variation of the circling trick, which is very exasperating, is when deer run to a place where other deer are, or have been feeding, and there is a ready made maze of tracks to confuse the hunter. Sometimes deer run to the location of other deer, which are resting, in an effort to transfer the hunter’s attention to them. Sometimes these tricks work to the hunter’s advantage and he is able to bag a deer other than the one he is following. When this happens to me, I have a feeling that the bagged deer is the result of an accident and not of my own efforts.

I remember one large buck, which I jumped one snowy day when there were no deer moving and tracks were practically nonexistent. I followed him at a fast pace until he began to show signs of stopping and then I slowed to a stalking pace, watching ahead and to each side of the trail. Coming to a windfall about thirty yards to my right, I saw a deer’s head and neck above and beyond the blow down. I didn’t stop for a second look, but shot the animal as soon as I knew that it was a deer. At the sound of the shot, several other deer bounded from the surrounding area. I checked the tracks later and found that the buck, which I had been following, had not stopped there, but had passed on by the place where four other deer were bedded. I had shot the smallest deer, a male fawn that didn’t weigh over sixty pounds. I was not a very proud hunter as I dragged the animal home.

During trailing, the deer sometimes leads you to other deer who are feeding in groups. This can lead you to bag at least one even if you don’t get the one you are trailing.

Home Educating an Old Dog - Better Late than Never

Wednesday, April 25th, 2007

Home disciplining an older dog is possible, in spite of what manyhumans imagine. A canine is never too elder to learn where you wish him or her to go exempt them. When you initially commence potty educating for an elder mutt you must reject any medical problems that might compromise for more complicated house educating. When you reject medical troubles it’s time to commence potty teaching for your senior mutt! With a bit of time and support you would discover that your aged dog will cheerfully go potty within their chosen areas.

Have Fun Home Educating an Older Mutt

You should like the experience of house disciplining your dog or at least give the idea of doing so. If you look at the method as a task your mutt will pick up on your outlook. If you draw close to the house teaching procedure with a encouraging attitude, things will go much more smoothly for both of you. Potty teaching an elder dog will take a bit of time & persistence, but usually a excellent approach will get you both through.

Consider being tolerant during this important stage , , your mutt did not have the advantage of learning early. Dog’s are to a great extent like people; they get set in their ways and widens functions. They might have never even thought about going to the toilet anywhere else but where they usually go, so it may take you a bit of time to get them to smash their attitude. Have reliance; house disciplining an old mutt is possible!

Some challenges you might face when home breaking an elder dog is it’s laziness regarding your canine’s incentive to learn. An incapability to smash old routine can be hard at times for many mutt’s’sthat is set in their habit. Aged mutt’s’s can be immense, but they are frequently sluggish and unresponsive when equated to a puppy, which could make home disciplining tough. For a second time, I reiterate, don’t give up! Patience is the solution here.

Think of Using Teaching Assistance when House Educating an Senior Mutt

You might find it very useful to employ the use of home teaching assists while house teaching an senior dog. Several types of products you might want to think are summarized below:

· Scented puppy pads which smell like urine and magnetize the canine to a particular place!

· Newspaper can be useful especially when combined with urine perfumed spray or drops.

· Crate training will motivate your mutt to maintain his personal area fresh until you can come with him or her to the suitable place to home.

· Take the mutt out every 2 to 3 hours to the “designated potty spot” and motivate him or her when they go to the right spot.

· Room or seclusion training, which works the same way as crate teaching, motivates the canine to maintain his or her area hygiene.

You might find it beneficial to use numerous techniques when house training your older mutt. For example, you might want to locate your old dog in a crate while you are away from home, but when you are away from the house you can take the canine outside every 1 or 3 hours to motivate him or her to go in the right spot. The key is to be consistent, to do the same things every day so that your dog picks up on the behavior & in due course does it on his or her own.

Positive Reinforcement Requires Dedication and Time

If your canine goes to the bathroom in the wrong spot, scold them if you find them in the act. It generally helps to shift the accidents to the right spot, if possible. If you don’t catch them in the act, scolding them would not help the situation. In spite of, focus on rewarding them when you are training your canine friend. When you see your dog go potty in the correct area, praise them, and simply give them positive attention. Make it a constant habit to this process & your senior canine will be home trained & living happily within the boundaries of your home.

House educating an elder mutt can be annoying, so consider that evenness & patience will go a long, long way. Old routines die tough, so do not stop with the routine even if you are fairly certain that your huge canine has it down. Stay persistent with the procedure unless the mutt can show to you over a long period of time that they are truly house skilled.

Visit http://largedogbreedz.com for more information regarding how to properly potty train your canine companion. For more healthy training advice, take a look at our selection of training articles at http://largedogbreedz.com/large-dog-training-articles/dog-obediance-training

Cat Litter Brands Determine Good Cat Litter Box Habits

Tuesday, April 24th, 2007

If you have a cat who doesn’t use her cat litter box, it might be the type of cat litter you buy for her.

Cats are fussy about a lot of things, and the cat litter brand you think she’ll likes might end up offending her for a number of reasons. If she doesn’t like it, your cat will communicate the only way she knows will get your attention - she’ll stop using the cat litter box.

There are a confusing number of cat litter brands to choose from. Some are made with humans in mind. These types often contain perfume or some type of smell that pleases you and me, but not necessarily to kitty.

A cats’ sense of smell is much more sensitive than a human’s. Cat litter that is drenched in a pleasant (for humans) scent may be very offensive to your cat. If her sense of smell is overwhelmed, she’ll avoid the cat litter box.

If you suspect your cat doesn’t like her cat litter, this can be an easy problem to fix. For example, if you faithfully supplied her with a brand she liked, but you decided to switch brands, she’ll stop using the cat litter box if it doesn’t meet her approval. In this case, switch back to the previous cat litter brand.

It may feel like defeat, but if you think about it in terms of saving money, time and frustration because you’re not cleaning up cat messes, then everybody wins.

You may have had to switch cat litter brands because her favorite brand is no longer available. If this is the case, experiment with similar brands and see which one she prefers.

Here’s an easy way to test cat litter brands to get kitty’s approval:

Set up two litter boxes. Each box should have a different cat litter brand. Leave the boxes down for a few days. At the end of your test period, see which box accumulated the most deposits. If one box was preferred over the other, you have your winner. You may need to repeat this test a few times before your cat decides you got it right.

If you have several bags of cat litter left over from your tests, donate them to your local feline rescue organization. They can always use any type for their rescued kitties.

If you switched cat litter brands because your nearest pet store no longer carries it, consider making a trip to one a little further from your home. The trick is to stock up with a large number of bags so your trips are as infrequent as possible.

Cats are demanding creatures. Since we don’t speak meow, and they can’t talk, cats communicate clearly (according to kitty logic) with radical, startling actions. It’s up to us humans (isn’t it always?) to translate our cat’s wishes and concerns.

By paying attention to past events (like switching litter brands on kitty), we can decipher and solve many cat litter box problems.

Aquarium Rentals

Monday, April 23rd, 2007

Considering an aquarium, but discouraged by the thought of all that responsibility, not to mention cost? What about if you move, moving a full sized aquarium can be a hassle? Well, now there’s good news. You can have all the appeal and beauty of an aquarium without the long term responsibility or high costs often associated with owning your own, full sized tank. Aquarium rentals are quickly becoming a popular option for businesses and homes.

Perhaps you are not certain which style aquarium to invest in. In all probability you’d enjoy an aquarium much larger than your budget deems reasonable. Remember, bigger is always better, especially when considering uniqueness and style. Aquarium rentals allow you the options of styles and sizes, before making the commitment of buying an aquarium system outright. Think of it as a “try before you buy” option of aquarium styles.

Placement of your aquarium may also be a concern. A Juwel Trigon corner aquarium might appeal to your decor now, but what about when you redecorate and a Juwel Vision becomes more charming? Aquarium rental introduces such options to those who want them.

Aquarium rentals also offer convenience. All the supplies you need to get started are included. Filters, lighting, electrical components and the finishing are all included, no need to buy separate pieces or figure out which model numbers are compatible with your aquarium system. Aquarium rentals make set up a breeze.

Studies show adding an aquarium, or living work of art, to your business environment can help ease stress and lower absenteeism in the workplace. Create your own in-house experiment by renting an aquarium for you and your employees to enjoy. Odds are your aquarium will have a positive effect on all who enjoy its liveliness and beauty. The addition of beauty and life can make even working in a cubicle more enjoyable. Rent an aquarium and productivity and morale will inevitably increase.

Updating your lifestyle has a similar effect to the office study and aquarium rental makes it a breeze. Whether you reside in a house or apartment an aquarium is a great addition. Plus, aquariums are known to emit calming effects so even if buying one outright is out of the question, consider renting your alternative.

Aquarium rentals provide quality and aesthetics without the hassle. No longer is it necessary to worry about packing your aquarium system for a move. No worries around whether you can get the system you desire; customization is available on rentals as well. Enjoy the uniqueness of your very own aquarium while avoiding the hassle of storing or moving when the need arises.

The exclusivity of showing an aquarium in your space should be convincing enough. If not, the awe you’ll inspire from visitors, employees, or family members will make the addition well worth it. Think of adding an aquarium as upgrading your space and your life. Consider enjoying a superior rental aquarium system with less hassle; go on have fun what more can you ask?

Cheap Cat PlayThings You can Find Around Your Home

Sunday, April 22nd, 2007

Buying toys from your local pet shop can be expensive, and after the money you spend on it, your cat either tears the toy to pieces in a couple of hours or turns its nose up completely!

Why not save your money and entertain your cat with the following things you can find around your own home?

String!

I guarantee all cats love string. As it wiggles along the ground, moving fast and slow, it triggers your cat’s hunting mechanism and makes a great plaything.

A great idea is to tie a long piece of string to a stick, so you can drag it along the ground and tease your pet while sitting comfortable in a chair.

Paper!

Other than the sound of pet food, nothing perks my cats ears up like the sound of paper being rolled into a ball. A ball of paper about the size of a ping-pong ball is ideal for your cat to chase around the house. They absolute love it.

Similar thing to use for ball pet toys are rolled up sweet wrappers and small balls of foil.

Rope!

One of the most versatile products you can use to make different cat toys and activities.

It’s great to wrap around a post to make your very own cat scratch post and can be pined to pieces of board to make scratch boards that can be mounted on a wall inside or out.

These are just some of the things you can find inside your home to entertain your pet, without having to spend a lot of money in pet shops on toys and pet accessories.

Introduction To Clownfish

Saturday, April 21st, 2007

Introduction To Clownfish

Clown fish are known technically as Anemonefishes and are a subfamily of damselfish, in the pomacentridae family. There are 26 unique species of ‘Clownfish’, 25 of them being in the Amphiprion genus and only 1 in the Premnas genus. They are typically a small fish, mature males only growing anywhere from 2 to 5 inches in length.

Habitat

Clownfish are only found in the tropical waters of the Indian or Pacific oceans, and the Red sea. These climits provide a suitable environment for enemonefishes due to their warm temperatures. Clownfish tend to be bottom dwellers, and most notably reside in inshore reefs, specifically inside sea anemones. The anemone provides protection for the Clownfish both by enabling the fish to hide, and with it’s poisonus tenticles, keeping other fish away. There is no definite information why the Clownfish is not stung by the anemone, but many theories exist.

Prey or Preditor?

In nature a clownfish will attract it’s pray by swiming around it’s anemone and displaying it’s bright colors. Once the victim, all the time thinking that he is the preditor, begins to aproach, the clownfish will recede into the anemone with his prey following closely behind. The sea anemone once in contact with the ‘preditor’ will sting, kill, and begin to eat the prey. This leaves the leftovers for the Clownfish to snack on. Other forms of food are planktonic crustaceans and algae that may develope on coral or nearby rocks. Anomenes themselves may provide food as the clownfish will pick at and consume dead tenticles.

Captivity

This fish is a very good first choice for saltwater tanks, which is one of the reasons they have become so popular in the united states and parts of europe. Part of their suitability is found with anemonefishes having a very small territory; which is good for the small area offered in fish tanks. The substrate area of tank, meaning the area on the bottom of your tank adjusted for protruding rocks and sunken ships, is more important then the total volume of the tank. A 20 gallon tank would be considered the minimum recommended size for Clownfish. Living peaceably in your fish tank a Clownfish would require aprox. 14 hours of light and 10 hours of darness every day. These amounts may be adjusted and are only suggestions. Be carefull of high nitrate levels. Mature Clownfish can sometimes tollerate these levels, but the larva and babies will almost certainly not. Include a large variety of food when feeding Clownfish. Feedings should include live brine shrimp, frozen food, algae and the traditional flakes. Being that clownfish will have no preditors in a fish tank a sea anomone is not requird to protect them.

Breeding

Many people believe anemonefishes will not breed without the presence of a sea anemone, but this is not the case. After some time, a particular spawning site will be chosen. This spawning site will remain the same throughout the life of the Clownfish pair. Clownfish will spawn all year round laying their eggs in large batches. In the wild eggs are normally laid on coral or rock that is near the anemone, though in your tank they may be laid anywhere. Once laid by the female, the male clownfish assumes the job of gaurding the eggs until they hatch, typically 4 or 5 days aftwards. When clownfish reach sexual maturity they will strike out on their own, searching for a vacant sea anomone. Clownfish may be expected to live around 3 to 5 years in captivity.