Pets

It does not take long for that bundle of fur to become a part of your family. For some, it takes just a matter of minutes for their new puppy, kitten or adult animal to form a heart connection. Because of that, and because of the rising cost of acquiring a pet, not to mention the rising cost of medical care, choosing the right animal is important. It is also important that you set out to find a reputable place for finding that new family member.

There are many reasons to select each kind of breeder, shelter or pet store. But if the health of the animal you are about to allow to touch your heart is important, there are some things to consider.

1) If your new pet is coming from a shelter, make sure that you know what medical procedures and shots have been given to your new pet. Find out if there is a guarantee of any kind or length. Some shelters offer a 10-day or 30-day guarantee on the health of the pet. Although it will break your heart to discover that the pet you have adopted and had in your home for two weeks is sick, if that pet has been with you for months, the bond is even greater. Find out early on what, if any, health issues you have adopted with that pet, and make an informed decision about whether or not your family is ready to face these issues.

2) Take precautions when acquiring a pet from a private home or breeder. Ask for proof of shots and veterinarian visits. Ask about the health of your pet’s mother and father. Arrange a visit to your own family vet immediately after bringing your pet home, before you have become fully attached to that bundle of fur.

3) Be really cautious of pets purchased at pet stores. Ask about the conditions of professional breeding facilities that furnish pets to your local pet store. If the store clerk is not fully aware of those conditions, you might want to pass on getting your pet from that store.

Even with precautions, families can still end up adopting sick pets without knowing it, and the cost can be tremendous.

Our family adopted a ten-month old kitten from a no-kill shelter just before Christmas, and she is really not thriving. Although she eats constantly, she has not gained much weight. In fact, she is all skin and bones. Our own family vet still has not discovered the cause of this, even though extensive tests have been performed. Each day, we wonder how long she will be with us, especially if we cannot discover the reason for her inability to gain weight.

And the family across the street from us just lost their beloved pet. Their puppy had been a part of the family for six months when she died at the vet’s office. She stopped eating on a Friday night, vomited and had loose stools on Saturday and was dead by Monday morning. The cause appeared to be parvovirus. This family is devastated. They do plan on getting another pet of the same breed and from the same mother dog. This time, however, they have arranged to pay for a complete check-up of the mother dog. They will not take possession of the new puppy until it has been through two shot periods. They also plan on immediately taking the puppy to their own veterinarian for a check-up before allowing the puppy to attach to their heartstrings.

There are no real guarantees of the health of any pet. But certain precautions can help assure that your pet will be a part of the family for many years.

An untrained dog is a direct reflection on you, the pet owner, and how much you care about the dog. In fact a dog that is not trained becomes a nuisance to the owner and the environment. You can probably give to your dog basic obedience training, i.e. teaching it to respond to simple commands. Whether it’s a puppy or a fully-grown dog you can teach them with a little effort on your part.

Dogs are intelligent animals. They have been trained to do specific tasks like sniffing out drugs and explosives and performing search and rescue missions. All these are possible by the efforts of the dog owner. But how can you train your dog to obey you?

First, you need to know about the genetic make up of your dog. Like wolves, dogs are hierarchy conscious. They instinctively gravitate toward living in pack under a leader. Your family is your dog’s pack and it needs to understand that you are the leader.

Even as a puppy, your dog can learn that it is subordinate to you. How? Try holding its gaze with your eyes until it looks away. Also, rubbing the dog’s belly while on its back is a good exercise, as this puts it in a submissive position. If your dog is being a nuisance and does not stop when you say ‘No’, try ignoring it or leaving the room.

When your dog responds to your commands, it is acknowledging that you are in charge. If you, as the owner, do not establish your position of leadership, your pet may conclude that it is equal or superior to you and this might affect its behavior.

To teach your dog basic commands, you will need a collar, a leash and plenty of patience. For successful training, you will have to follow the steps below:

a. Give a simple, one-word command, b. demonstrate the desired action and c. immediately give praise when the action is done. Your tone of voice is more important than the word you use. A command should be given in an affirmative tone and praise be given in a happy, affectionate tone.

Physical punishment, such as hitting or kicking, is not necessary. Simply say ‘No’ in a sharp tone, prolonging the vowel, so that the dog will know that you are displeased with its performance. A dog is intelligent enough to know when you are rewarding or reprimanding.

If anything more drastic is needed, you might grasp the dog by the scruff of its neck and shake it lightly while saying ‘No’. Reprimands should be given during or immediately following the undesirable behavior. Remember, a dog cannot discern why it is being scolded if scolding occurs minutes or hours after the act. Neither does it understand why a certain action is acceptable on one occasion but not on another, so be consistent.

Training of a dog is a continuous process, but the nucleus for all obedience is the command ‘Sit!’ if your dog understands this basic command it becomes quite easy to train your dog in the other basic commands. For example, you can tell your dog to sit when it begins to jump on visitors. To teach your dog to sit, put the leash on it and give the command while pushing down on its hindquarters and gently pulling its head up with the leash. Give praise immediately. Repeat these steps until the dog obeys the command on its own.

To teach your dog to remain in the position, use the command ‘Stay!’ while standing in front and putting your hand out with the palm facing flat toward the dog. If the dog moves, say ‘No’ and place it back into position. Repeat the command and praise the dog when it stays sitting for a short period. Gradually increase the time it sit and then the distance between you and the dog as it responds to the command.

The best way to teach your dog to come to you is to use a long leash and give a gentle tug while calling your dog’s name and giving the command ‘Come!’. Back up as the dog moves towards you and continue to praise. Soon it will respond to your call without being prompted by the leash. Never use the word ‘Come’ for a negative reason, such as to reprimand. Your dog must learn that responding to ‘come’ will bring pleasurable results, whether praise or a food treat. If you lose your patience while teaching this command, your dog will learn that coming is unpleasant and will be avoided.

You can teach your dog to walk by your side without pushing ahead or lagging behind. To do this without stress, use a link-chain training collar and a short leash. With the dog on your left, give the command ‘Heel!’ and step out with the left foot. If your dog attempts to push ahead or lag back, give a quick, sharp jerk on the leash and repeat the command. Give praise for compliance.

Remember, a dog is a social and intelligent animal. Long period of confinement can lead to excessive barking, hyperactivity and destructive behavior. But with training, your dog can become a delightful, loyal companion instead of a nuisance.

The Irish Wolfhound is a tall, large dog that needs an average amount of exercise. Never push a young Irish Wolfhound to run or exercise when she does not want to as you may injure rapidly growing joints. She is generally not a good watch dog or guard dog as she is very sweet tempered and loves everyone. Her size and looks should deter any prowler. She tends to get along with considerate children, other dogs and other pets. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with any puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Irish Wolfhound is 28 to 35 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 90 to 150 pounds. The female ranges a bit smaller than the male.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Irish Wolfhound is no exception. Be on the look out for canine hip dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), heart problems (cardiomyopathy), bone cancer, bloat (Gastric Dilation-Volvulus, the second leading killer of dogs, can kill within the hour, this space is too limited for a complete explanation but you should read up on this). Feeding more then once a day and avoiding exercise right after meals may help guard against bloat, and Von Willebrands disease (a problem with blood clotting). This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Irish Wolfhound has a rough, hard and wiry coat. She should be brushed regularly with a brush and a comb. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, avoid mats and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her. She should also have dead hair plucked occasionally, a job possibly better done by a groomer.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.

Life Span

The Irish Wolfhound can live between 6 and 10 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Irish Wolfhound comes from Ireland where they were used to hunt wolves and help in battles. They were also used for companions and hunting deer. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1897.

Some Registries

• The Irish Wolfhound Club of America
• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

3 to 4 Irish Wolfhound puppies

Category

Hound

Terms To Describe

Power, swift, muscular, graceful, active, dignified, willing, sweet, patient, large, tall, intelligent

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• They look scary enough to deter intruders.
• Very calm, nice dog.
• Takes training well.
• Rarely barks.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• Poor watch dog.
• Poor guard dog.
• Sensitive to moods.
• Knows if you are laughing at her.

Other Names Known By

Irish Hound, Irish Wolfdog, Cu Faoil, Milcu

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

Does your dog ever drag his/her bottom along the ground? Does your dog nibble and chew at his/her knees, tail or bottom? Does your dog sometimes strain excessively to defecate? If the answer to any of these questions is yes, then your dogs anal glands might need emptying.

What are anal glands?

Anal glands are sacs located either side of the anus, at approximately four and eight o clock. These sacs contain natural liquid secretions which can vary in color from yellowish to brown to grey in healthy animals. When a dog defecates, the sac is normally emptied and a small amount of the secretion coats the stool. The function is essentially as a scent marker for marking territory, which is of course redundant in domesticated animals. Anal glands are the reason why dogs like to sniff each others bottoms, they are merely checking out each others personal scent. In most dogs the sacs empty regularly and easily, however some struggle to empty them and these dogs are predisposed to anal sac disease.

Why do some dogs get anal gland problems but others not?

Good question. Certain breeds are worse affected than others, though any breed can get problems. Toy breeds such as Chihuahuas, Dachshunds and Miniature Poodles are commonly affected, and also Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. Obese dogs are more likely to suffer from anal gland problems, but thin dogs can also be affected. A high fibre diet is thought to help dogs empty their sacs naturally, though this is unproven. Vets are unsure exactly why some glands block up and others do not, but dogs that require their anal sacs to be manually emptied tend to have a recurring problem where the owner will need to organize for this to be done regularly.

How do I know if my dog has a problem?

1.Your dog starts to drag his/her bottom along the floor, known as scooting

2.Your dog nibbles or chews at his/her knees, groin, rump, tail or anus

3.Your dog strains hard whilst passing a stool

4.Your dog has started to develop a foul smell

5.Your dog is showing evidence of pain in the area around the anus

6.You have noticed a swelling, discharge or a hole near the anus

How do I empty the anal sacs?

Most anal sacs can be emptied easily, and by the owner at home if they are prepared to. It is advisable to wear latex gloves for hygiene reasons; these can be purchased at some DIY stores or pharmacies. If you cannot face doing it yourself, your vet will be happy to do it for you.

There are two techniques for emptying anal glands, externally or internally. Try externally first, if you struggle to empty them then try the internal method. You will know they have emptied as you will see the secretion squirt out!

External emptying: Place your thumb and forefinger at 4 o clock and 8 o clock below the anus, an inch or so away from the hole. Gently massage upwards and inwards towards the anus. If nothing comes out, try pressing a little harder. If they still do not empty, you may have to try internal emptying.

Internal emptying: Place your thumb at 4 o clock and your forefinger inside the anus, 1-2cm in. Try to feel for the swelling, and squeeze it. Once empty, repeat for the other side. It may be easier to change hands to achieve this. If the sacs are very impacted, firm pressure will be necessary to empty them and the discharge will appear like a thick paste rather than a liquid.

What happens if I do not empty them when they are full?

Well, your dog will remain in discomfort. If the duct leading from the anal sac to the skin (through which the discharge normally empties) is blocked, the sac will continue to fill and usually form an abscess. This is a bacterial infection of the anal sac, where the sac fills with pus and then bursts through the skin, leaving a bloody hole. A burst anal gland abscess required veterinary treatment immediately, and a prolonged course of antibiotics. Needless to say it is much better to empty the anal sacs regularly to prevent this from happening.

My pet needs his/her anal glands emptied regularly. Is there a long term solution so that I do not have to keep doing this?

Yes there is, a surgical operation where the anal glands are removed entirely. This is nearly always completely curative, and relatively straight forward to perform. As mentioned earlier, the glands serve no physiological purpose to the dog and so are not missed. Complications with the surgery only tend to arise if the dog has previously had a burst anal gland abscess, as this can scatter the lining of the sac and make removal more difficult. The surgery is done under general anesthetic, the duration of the operation depends upon the size of the dog and the technique used but usually takes around an hour. This operation is often advised in young to middle aged dogs that need their glands emptied 4 times or more in the space of a year.

The purpose of this article is not a how-to on correcting the behavior of an aggressive dog. That task is better left to dog trainers, veterinarians, and dog behaviorists. This article identifies seven basic types of dog aggression, however, and offers suggestions on how to communicate better with an aggressive dog to prevent injury from dog attacks.

Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?

Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child’s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.

Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog’s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:

Dominant

Opportunity

Game

Boy/Girl

Injury

Territorial

Escape

Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.

The dog with the highest social order is called the alpha dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.

Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.

The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.

Here is a less obvious challenge to an owner’s dominance in the pack:

You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.

Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.

Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.

Gently cup your hand over your dog’s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You will see the behavior right away.

Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.

Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.

Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog’s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.

A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.

You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.

Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.

Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!

Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.

Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.

Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.

Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack’s territory. The dog’s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!

When a dog is in a new environment, he may be “territorial” because he is not sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be “cage aggressive.” The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.

When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.

Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.

A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.

Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.

This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?

Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or making sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.

Canine Parvovirus, is a viral disease that attacks dogs and if left untreated, it kills them within day’s, usually due to dehydration and it’s side effects.

Parvo is caused by a virus present in the faeces of infected dogs. Other dogs and pups pick up the parvo virus through eating food off the ground, chewing bones on the dirt, licking each other… there is so much parvo virus in the environment that older dogs have become somewhat immune to it, however puppies are very susceptible, especially from around weaning age at 5 to 8 weeks.

Parvo symptoms include severe depression and a loss of appetite, followed by a high fever, vomiting, diarrhoea and dehydration

The infected dog will pass bloody stools within 24 hours. Puppies infected with parvo usually die within 48 hours if left untreated.

The virus initially lodges and multiplys in the lymph nodes of the throat and in 3 or 4 days it spreads to the bone marrow and the gastro-intestinal tract. All three sites contain the rapidly multiplying cells that the virus needs. In the bone marrow it kills the young immune system cells, and as such a low white cell count is the first clinical sign of possible parvo virus infection. Having a low white cell count also means that the host dog cannot fight the infection.

While this is happening the parvo virus is attacking the gastro intestinal tract, killing new cells of the intestine walls before they have a chance to grow. This results in an inability to absorb nutrients, causing acute diarrhoea. The intestinal wall becomes so damaged that bleeding occurs, allowing bacterial infections to take hold.

Therefore puppies can die from either severe dehydration and shock, bacterial infection… or more commonly,both.

You can’t treat parvo with antibiotics, however, they are routinely given to prevent secondary bacterial infections setting in, while the dog’s immune system is actively fighting the virus.

The best treatment for parvo is prevention. And the best form of prevention is Vaccinating, which should be mandatory for all puppies before they are 3 months old. Follow up every 12 months with a booster shot.

You should vaccinate pregnant broody’s with a killed parvovirus vaccine, either before mating, or 2 weeks before her puppies are born. This will pass on protection to the puppies until they are about 6 weeks old, or until they stop suckling. The danger period for puppies is between weaning at 5 to 8 weeks old, and 3 months of age, when they should get their full shots.

On dog farms and in breeding barns, it’s advisable to give puppies a 4 in 1 shot that includes parvovirus and corona virus vaccines at about 7 weeks, followed by their full 5 in 1 shot which includes Leptovirus vaccine at 3 months of age.

The only way to kill parvo in the environment is with either Bleach diluted 30 to 1 with water, or some other proprietary brand containing bleach. If the infected area is left dormant, the parvo will die in the ground in around 7 months, but you would be well advised to leave them vacant for 1 to 2 years. Freezing protects parvovirus cells, so if the ground is snowbound in winter, it may be at least 2 years before it is safe to allow puppies on it again.

Start by keeping your cat free of fleas and ticks. This is often more challenging in the outdoor cat. Be persistent and try various flea and tick products to find one that gives good results. Remember to also treat and clean your cats bed once a week to reduce fleas. Vacuum your carpets especially where your cat likes to sleep. If your cat or home seem to be heavily infested consult your veterinarian for advice and alternatives.

Cats like to be clean and will usually attract your attention in one way or another when the litter box is overdue for a cleaning. Our cats will whine and fuss in the early morning to be let outside rather than use a smelly litter box. Our cats are also quite happy to use the bathroom floor or shower as an alternative. Thankfully we learned this communication method early on and have managed to meet their need in keeping the litter box clean and fresh. Some cats will scratch around in a dirty litter box and keep scratching for a while with the sand going everywhere. That is there form of communication. Even if the litter box looks clean, is clean of clumped litter, it may still smell of urine and will need a thorough wash and new litter to meet your cats standards.

Observing your cat on a daily basis, knowing its habits and personality will help you detect any changes. Noting any changes in your cat early can prevent future health concerns. Have cuddle time with your cat where you gently inspect its overall condition. Learn to look for any signs of illness such as fever or a dull coat. If your cat is not showing any specific signs, but you know he is simply not himself, there is no harm in calling your veterinarian for advice.

Taking time to create a healthy environment for you and your cat will enhance your relationship, keeping your cat comfortable and content. Remember a healthy cat is a happy cat.

Lovebirds make wonderful pets. Their exquisite colors and animated personalities easily endear them to onlookers. While every bird has its own personality there are traits common to all Lovebirds which have made them a popular pet and a great choice for a first time bird owner.

Appearance

Lovebirds have perhaps the most varied coloration among the parrot species. Years of hybridizing by breeders have developed soft pastels or brilliant hues. You’ll find Lovebirds in nearly any color imaginable - blues, yellows, purples, peaches and so on.

Lovebirds are also a pleasantly sized parrot for most people. They are only 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 inches and about 42-60 grams. Baby Lovebirds will be close to the size of an adult Lovebird.

Life Span

Like other parrots, Lovebirds have a long life span - although not as long as the larger species. They live 15-20 years, approximately the same life span as a cat. It is important to understand the commitment before purchasing a Lovebird.

Lovebirds Are Active Little Parrots

Lovebirds are very energetic and inquisitive. They will happily fly about or sit on your shoulder during daily activities. They are not nervous of usual activity and generally can integrate with a family of busy, noisy children with great enjoyment. Lovebirds love to play and are comical to watch whether they are playing alone splashing in their water dish or playing with your hair and sneaking into your collar.

Your best bet is to buy a hand-raised Lovebird which will be more tame than a parent-raised bird. While Lovebirds are quite fearless and should be supervised closely around other pets, they do enjoy playing with people. Gentle and consistent handling will help prevent nipping.

Lovebirds, like other birds, are born to live among a flock and so they will challenge authority for the dominant position. Sometimes headstrong, the owner of a Lovebird needs to be patient and firm. However, Lovebirds are not overly demanding in most respects and will learn to be well-behaved. They are also content to play alone for periods of time as long as they are given proper space and playthings.

Lovebirds are very intelligent and can even be ‘potty’ trained to go on a paper or in a trash container instead of around the house. This can make it much easier to allow your Lovebird to enjoy freedom outside the cage without the constant clean up.

Vocalizations

While Lovebirds will learn to mimic the sounds around them, including household noises and other birds, they are not known for mimicking human speech as well as other parrot species.

Despite this you will find your Lovebird to have a strong personality all its own and it will convey its moods and desires quite clearly.

Before buying your Lovebird be sure the owner or breeder can provide additional assistance in helping you settle your bird at home. You are likely to have other questions arise as a first time owner and should look for cooperation for properly learning to care for your pet Lovebird.

Getting fish can be very exciting. There are so many different kinds of fish that sometimes it can be hard to choose. Fish come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and patterns. They can look exotic or ordinary, bright or dull. Some are large, and others very tiny. They can add a great deal to any home décor, adding variety and color to the home. Additionally, they make great pets, teaching children responsibility. Plus, they are easy to care for, and if you get a good filter and keep the tank out of the sun, you only have to clean the tank every couple of weeks. But you can’t just buy a bunch of fish and toss them into the water. You have to make sure that your fish and your water go together.

For most fish, just any water will not do. There are two main types of fish: salt water fish and fresh water fish. You can kill fish by putting them in the wrong kind of water. A salt water fish does not thrive in fresh water, and you can easily kill a fresh water fish by putting it into salt water. This means that you have to be careful when selecting fish for your tank. You need to make sure you are getting the right fish for your tank. Otherwise, you will find your fish belly up in a mere matter of days.

If you are set on particular fish, then it is important to determine what kind of water they will need before you buy them. You want to make sure that you will have access to the proper water before buying the fish. After all, it is so much a waste of money to buy fish when you cannot get the proper water. And many pet shops will not take fish back. This is because they might pick up diseases, and shop owners do not want to take them back. On most fish, there is a no return policy in force at the majority of pet stores. So do your research ahead of time so that you know exactly what you need in terms of water for your desired fish.

The other thing you need to make sure you have is the proper fish tank. Some tanks are made specifically for salt water, and some are made for fresh water. There are tanks that are made for both, so that you can use either. Before you purchase your fish, make sure that you have the right tank. You want to be sure that your tank is the right kind of home for your fish. Plus, you do not want to ruin the tank by putting the wrong kind of water in it. Tanks can be quite expensive, and it is a bad idea to ruin one with the wrong water. Getting a tank meant for either type of water can be a good move, as it allows you the flexibility to change your mind later on down the road.

Just as trees, flowers and plants help our environment, add a food source and make our landscapes beautiful so too do aquatic plants provide the same for your aquarium.

Just like us fish like to have areas where they can swim around and nibble at, but plant life in the aquarium plays a much greater part in the aquatic environment.

Toxins in the water created by rotting food and fish excrement pollute and starve the water of vital oxygen. Remembering that the fish breathe water through their gills we know that it is vital to keep oxygen levels up in the tank. Aquatic plants will help the process and uses the phosphate created in the nitrogen cycle to help them grow.

So what is the nitrogen cycle? Just like on land the leaves, plant life and animal droppings rot and mulch down into a fertiliser. Plant roots take the fertiliser and use it as a feed. In the aquarium rotting foods, and fish waste falls to the bottom of the tank and turns into a fertiliser for the aquatic plants. In turn they produce oxygen through photosynthesis just as the trees and flowers do above water. More oxygen means that the fish can breathe healthy clean and safe water.

Aquatic plants also play an important part in the breeding process of fish. Some species lay their eggs beneath the leaves away from other predatory fish swimming around the plants to ward off fish from nearing them until the eggs hatch, the leafy plants then offer a good food source for the young fry and indeed many adult fish enjoy nibbling on the fresh leaves as much as we enjoy our garden vegetables..

Not only are aquatic plants important to the tank environment but offer an exciting landscape for you and your fish. Imagine walking through the countryside and seeing no trees, no flowers and plant life, pretty grim thought yes? In the same respect the underwater garden offers you the chance to create dramatic and stunning plant effects that will give you hours of watching pleasure as you see your fish happily swimming and enjoying the garden you have given them.

Different plants have different visual effects, look around your aquatic centre and ask for advice as some plants are hardier than others and therefore easier to look after. You will also need to ensure you have a good substrate for the roots to grow and a plant food, this usually comes in liquid form and can be added at intervals to ensure your plants get what they need to survive life in the tank.

The plants come in all shapes and sizes, various colours can brighten a drab looking aquarium, this not only creates great effect for you and any visitors to your home, but also gives the fish a greater enjoyment. When you plant your garden, use your imagination, create an effect you will truly be happy with, and if you need an extra hand there are hundreds of ideas to choose from in websites and books readily available on the net, library’s and in your local aquatic centre.