Archive for March, 2007

Antioxidants For Your Pets Too!

Saturday, March 31st, 2007

It’s not just humans that benefit from antioxidants in their diet, animals do too. Like humans, your pet can suffer from the damaging effects of free radicals so notoriously linked to aging and disease. Antioxidants neutralize these hazardous molecules, and as such serve as potent protectors of the body. Food is an essential source of these key players in our defense system with numerous vitamins, minerals and enzymes having antioxidant properties. Common examples include vitamins A, C and E, selenium and zinc, carotenoids, flavonoids and coenzyme Q10.

Sadly, processed commercial pet foods can be deficient in these active compounds, as well as devoid of live enzymes which also greatly serve the health of your pet. Homemade, raw food diets can provide a healthy dose of antioxidants for your dog and cat. If embarking on a homemade raw food diet, thoroughly research the area first as nutritional balance is essential.

Vegetables and some fruit in your dog’s diet and a small quantity of such in your cat’s diet can provide many of these active compounds. Dogs can eat up to around 30% plant foods in their daily meal and are not obligatory carnivores like felines. Cats require only a very small proportion of plant foods in their diet, around 5-10%. With both dogs and cats, be sure to blend veggies well as they do not readily digest cellulose, and in the wild would have consumed the partially broken down plant foods in the guts of their prey.

Vegetables and fruits particularly high in antioxidants include broccoli, spinach, avocado, peas, blueberries and apples. Other veggie options for your pet’s diet include chard, kale, squash, watercress, carrots, cabbage, celery, beetroots, green beans, sweet potato, cauliflower and asparagus. Use a range of vegetables and always include something green. Seeds provide antioxidant minerals such as selenium (particularly high in Braxil nuts) and zinc (high in pumpkin and sesame seeds for example). They are also rich in healthy oils and vitamin E. One nut or a few seeds a day is adequate for larger dogs, one every few days or so for cats and smaller dogs.

As a note, raw onions are not friendly on your pet’s digestive system so are best avoided. I also avoid tomatoes, peppers, cucumber and potato. Garlic is not good for cats, though small amounts occasionally in your dog’s diet may serve as a natural flea repellent.

Vitamin E is a potent antioxidant and valuable addition to both your dog and cats diet (always research dosage amounts before using supplements), with powerful anti-aging and disease-preventive properties. Vitamin C, however, is questionable for use as a supplement. Where many agree it is not appropriate for a cat’s diet (since they manufacture vitamin C from glucose in their small intestine), there is still debate around whether it is beneficial as a dietary supplement for dogs. Many argue it is health-promoting, where others claim dogs can synthesize vitamin C in their liver and any extra can lead to kidney and liver damage.

Dogs can convert the beta-carotene in vegetables into vitamin A, another immune boosting antioxidant. Cats, however, cannot synthesize vitamin A from plant foods and must acquire this vitamin from animal sources in their diet such as liver.

Recent evidence for the importance of antioxidants in your pet’s diet comes from a study on dogs at the University of Toronto by Dr. Dwight Tapp and colleagues (2005) who found that ‘old dogs that were on an antioxidant diet performed better on a variety of cognitive tests than dogs that were not on the diet. In fact, the dogs eating antioxidant-fortified foods performed as well as young animals’.

Other research by Dr. Rabinovitch and his team studying aging at the University of Washington, Seattle (published in the International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition, 2004), found that mice engineered to produce high levels of an antioxidant enzyme (catalase) lived 20 per cent longer and had less heart and other age-related diseases than controls. In light of the role antioxidants play in combating aging and disease, it is important to ensure your pet’s diet includes a healthy dose of these protective agents.

Copyright 2006 Sylvia Riley

How to Choose a Dog Walker that’s Right for Your Dog

Friday, March 30th, 2007

If you are like most working Americans you are low on time and high on tasks. You might put in long hours at the office. This shortens the amount of time you spend engaging in dog walking with your best canine friend every day. Different dog breeds have different daily exercise requirements, so your pooch might need extensive dog walking or run in the middle of the day.

How can you take your dog walking and be at work at the same time? You can hire a dog walker to be your dog walking replacement while you are at work. Often times a dog walker is more then just a necessity because many dogs that have limited dog walking time become irritable. Dogs need to have daily exercise and human connection through dog walking.

Your dog may even act out by chewing up your couch and favorite pair of heels when you are gone. In some instances, a dog in need of consistent dog walking will show aggression. This lack of exercise has let excess energy build up.

Dog walking during the day is also necessary for many dogs because they simply can’t go a long duration without going the bathroom. You may be at work for 12 hours and this can be too long for dogs to go without relieving themselves and/or having a snack. Therefore, daily dog walking can be a great benefit to many dogs.

We have established that daily dog walking by a dog walker is great idea. The question now is how do you choose a dog walker? There are many things to consider when you choose a dog walker. Your dog is a member of your family so you need to go through many of the same considerations that you would when hiring a babysitter for your children.

When hiring a babysitter for your children you normally look to family and friends for references. Do the same when you are looking for a dog walker. You can seek out references from friends that have dog walkers, your veterinarian, and dog groomer. They may know of individual dog walkers or dog walking services.

Take time to interview your dog walker. Do they have dog walking experience? Can you speak with any of their clients? Do they have a business license? Find this information and investigate it thoroughly. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog in the hands of someone that is unprofessional or may harm your dog.

Feeling comfortable with a dog walker’s references is also necessary because you will need to give them a key to your home so they can pick up your pooch. They will enter your home for daily dog walking, so you must trust them like you would trust a babysitter.

You need to assess the services your dog walker has to offer. Will they provide special assistance to your dog especially if it is an older dog that may be blind or has arthritis? What types of care services will your dog walker provide in addition to dog walking? For example, will they also provide water and feed your dog? Will they then cleanup any dog waste? You need to understand the scope of services your dog walker is willing to provide.

There are few factors to think about with regards to the actual dog walking. Will the dog walker walk your dog solo or with a group of dogs? A group of dogs may satisfy your needs, but this limits the amount of personal attention your dog can receive. You might have to pay more for a solo walk, but it could be worth the additional cost to keep your pooch happy.

You also need to determine what time your dog walker will come each time, how many times per week, and the length of the dog walk. It is a good idea to find a dog walker that can work around your schedule. They may be a great dog walker, but if they are too busy then they may not be able to meet your needs.

Don’t forget to bring your dog into the picture during the interview process. The dog walker needs to meet your dog. Observe how the dog walker interacts with your dog. Are they friendly? Does you dog appear to warm up to them immediately? If you have an opportunity, try to watch your dog walker interact with other dogs. Are they curt with dogs they aren’t walking?

Once you do hire a dog walker, you need to monitor their performance during the first few weeks to determine whether they are the right dog walker for your pooch. How can you do this if you are at work? It’s as easy as enlisting the help of your neighbor or anyone that will be in your neighborhood during the day. Have them observe the time of day your dog walker arrives and how they treat your dog during dog walking.

Don’t forget to provide your dog walker with emergency contact information. Also inform them of any special needs your dog may have. Finding the right dog walker can keep both you and your pooch happy.

Goldfish Diseases - How To Spot Them, Treat Them, And Hopefully Prevent Them

Thursday, March 29th, 2007

Many small animals and fish are susceptible to diseases and once infected, have greatly shortened life spans.

A goldfish can get sick if his tank is dirty, the water and oxygen levels are too low, the temperatures are too warm or too cool and if he is not being fed properly. Even if you are an excellent and doting parent, sometimes your goldfish might get sick for reasons unknown. Prevention and early detection are the best ways to help Goldie fight the urge to float upside-down.

There are many diseases that goldfish owners should be prepared to treat. They may not be pretty and you might be a little uneasy at first when attempting to identify them, but for the sake of your goldfish take the time to learn about and become familiar with parasite identities.

Skin Flukes are tiny worms that reside in the gill area of fish, consuming the skin cells and causing the fish to itch. Fish have a tendency to rub up against hard objects in attempts to relieve the itching, resulting in red and swollen gill areas. Relief and a cure can be found at pet stores.

Anchor Worm is a contagious parasite that attaches itself to the sides, head or mouth of the fish and is contracted by the ingestion of infection live food. The worm looks like a piece a green, brown or white thread dangling from the goldfish and can cause sore blood spots once it has entered into the flesh. Medicines are available for curing this disease.

Ich is the most common parasite that attacks fish with lowered immune systems. Introduction your fish to a new environment is enough to weaken immune systems and thus is a frequent cause of Ich in fish. Little white bumps will appear all over an infected fish, causing him to itch and gasp for air. Medication is readily available at pet stores and should be administered as soon as possible.

Tail or Fin Rot is a disease that causes damage and fraying to the fish’s tail and fins, and is normally brought on by poor water conditions and high levels of ammonia and nitrites. Medication can be purchased at your local pet store.

There are plenty of different diseases, parasites and fungal infections out there just waiting to attack your poor defenseless goldfish. By monitoring and properly caring for your pet, you will improve your goldfish’s chances of avoiding illness.

Dealing With House Training Your Dog

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

House training is one of those issues that every dog owner must grapple with. In most cases house training is the first major milestone in the relationship between owner and dog, and it can sometimes be difficult and confusing for owner and dog alike.

The best house training procedures are those that use the dog’s own instincts to the owner’s advantage. These strategies take into account the dog’s reluctance to soil the spots where he eats and sleeps. This is the concept behind den training and crate training. Dogs are very clean animals, and in nature they always avoid using their dens as toilet areas.

These kinds of natural training methods generally work very well, for both puppies and older dogs. Naturally, older, larger dogs will need a larger area for their den, and crate training is generally best used for puppies and small dogs.

When house training a dog or a puppy, however, it is important to pay close attention to the signals the dog is sending. It is also important to be consistent when it comes to feeding times, and to provide the dog with ready access to the toilet area you establish on a regular basis.

It is important as well to never try to rush the process of house training. While some dogs are naturally easier to train, most puppies and adult dogs will experience at least one or two slip ups during the house training process. When these accidents occur, it is important to not get mad and punish the dog. Accidents during house training usually mean that the owner is trying to move too fast, or that the dog has been left alone for too long. In this case, it is best to just take a step back and start the process again.

It is also important for the owner to reward the dog enthusiastically when it does its business in the appointed area. The dog should learn to associate doing its business in its toilet area with good things like treats, rewards and praise.

During the house training process, the den area starts out very small, often as small as half of a small room in the beginning. As the dog learns to control his bladder and bowels better, and the owner learns to anticipate the dog’s toilet needs, the den area can be slowly expanded. It is important not to make the den area too large too soon. The den area must be expanded slowly in order for the house training process to move along smoothly.

It is important for the dog to be properly introduced to its den. Many dogs, particularly those who have never been confined before, such as those who have spent their lives as outdoor dogs, may react to the den area as if it is a prison, and constantly whine, cry and try to escape the den. It is important that the dog learn to accept its den as a home and not a cage.

One problem many dog owners overlook when house training a dog is that of boredom. Boredom is actually the root cause of many behavior problems in dogs, including chewing and other destructive behaviors. Boredom can also be the root cause of problems with house training. Dogs that are bored often consume large amounts of water during the day, and this excess water consumption can lead to the need to urinate often, even in its den area. Since soiling the den area goes against the dog’s nature, he can quickly become confused and frightened, thereby setting the house training program back even further.

To prevent the dog from becoming bored when you are away from home, be sure to provide him with lots of different kinds of toys, as well as a safe and secure place to sleep. In addition, a vigorous period of play time can help the dog sleep while you are away. In addition, playing with the dog in its den area will help him bond with this area and recognize it as a safe, secure home.

Is a Dog the Right Pet for You?

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007

We all need some company. Whether it be from another person whose warm embrace and comforting words would make our troubles more bearable, or from a pet whose undying loyalty and adorable demeanor is a cause for much fondness and joy, life would be so much more wonderful if there is someone, or something, to share it with. This is the reason why we enter relationships. And in the same light, this is the reason why we all have a special place in our hearts for pets. And of all the pets that we can avail of, dogs are the most popular of choices. Those cute canine companions are indeed inspiring in their own little ways. Consider the following characteristics of dogs that make them perfect pets for most people:

Dogs are known for their fierce loyalty. They know who their masters are, and they stick with them through thick or thin. Dogs are highly intelligent creatures. They can be disciplined relatively easily, and they can be thought some amazing tricks as well. There are many practical chores that a dog can do. A canine companion can fetch he papers or your slippers, fend off undesirable household pests, and perform a variety of specialized tasks, like for example the special role of a guide dog for a blind person. Dogs are excellent security measures for the household. Their bark alone would scare of potential burglars. And in the event that such a burglar does muster the courage to step inside your house, he will be met by an angry dog in defense of his master s property.

Dogs are generally sociable. They can read people s intentions. They will exhibit the same kind of warmth to their master s friends and loved ones. With all the wondrous delights of owning a dog, some important considerations may get lost amidst such hysteria. The fact of the matters is that dogs aren’t for everyone.

Lovable as they may be, it takes a certain kind of person with certain kinds of characteristics to be able to rear a dog properly under a healthy environment. Is a dog the right pet for you? Let s take a look at the questions you should be asking yourself before deciding on a canine companion as your pet of choice.

How busy a person are you? Dogs need constant care most of the day. If you re out of the house a majority of the time, you will not be able to provide for the dog the care it deserves. Additionally, dogs initially need housebreaking that is, training them to be house friendly so that they won t end up chewing on some expensive items and ripping that costly carpet to shreds. You would have to invest some substantial time to train a dog the proper way. How patient are you? Not all dogs can be trained easily. Though possessed with higher intelligence than most available pets, dogs can sometimes test the limits of your patience. Additionally, not all dogs are alike. Some breeds are different than others, in terms of physical characteristics and behavioral traits. While some dogs respond to negative conditioning, or punishing them when they do something bad, other dogs are more receptive to positive reinforcements, that is, praising them when they do something admirable.

How much commitment can you give? Caring for a dog is not a short term hobby. Often, it is a decade long commitment, as dogs do have a lifespan of 10 to 20 years. During this time, you will be expected to give much love and affection for your dog so that it may grow up healthy and sound. Is your place perfect for a dog? Not all households are dog friendly. Small spaces, for example, like condo units and studio type apartments, will prove difficult for dog caring. Dogs need a lot of space to move around. They need to exercise on a daily basis, as their health is sometimes more volatile than ours. If you wish to care for a dog in a small dwelling place, you must invest some time everyday to walk him around the neighborhood so that he can get the workout he needs.

These may sound as steep requirements for owning a dog. But the joys that those adorable canine companions can bring into our lives will make all the troubles very much worth it.

Monarch Butterflies - Their 1800 Mile Flight to Freedom

Monday, March 26th, 2007

The fall migration of Monarch butterflies is one of those fascinating natural mysteries to which human beings still do not have any answers. For centuries, the black and orange Monarchs have been great winter attractions in the Californian and Mexican regions. However, no one had any clue to this huge influx of Monarch butterflies in these regions.

In 1937, part of this mystery was unfolded through the attempts of a researcher named F. A. Urquhart; he began putting wing tags on the butterflies in order to track their origins and whereabouts. His endeavors bore results and it was brought to light that the Monarch butterflies were original natives of the northern regions. The winged beauties soared and glided in the sunlit skies across USA from March through October. Come winter, and they would migrate to the warmer regions southwards to avoid the cold winds, returning to their summer grounds in the wake of spring.

The migration and the life cycle of a Monarch butterfly continue to puzzle human beings. Studies have established that a Monarch butterfly completes a round trip only once in its entire life cycle. With an average life span of about 6-8 weeks (of one generation through the various stages - egg, caterpillar, chrysalis, butterfly), the migration chapter is not covered in a single generation. In fact, it is the fourth generation Monarch butterflies that take the long flights (ranging to some 1800-2500 miles) from their summer homes to their winter roosting spots traversing many mountains and forests in their way.

The first three generations complete their life cycles in the northern regions. The fourth generation butterflies attain maturity at the onset of Fall. These adults are slightly different from the summer adults; they do not mate rather take to flight to keep warm. Monarch butterflies east of the Rocky Mountains migrate to the Oyamel fir trees of Mexico and the ones west of the Rockies migrate to the eucalyptus trees of Pacific Grove and surrounding areas in southern California. The fall generation Monarchs hibernate in their warm nesting grounds of Mexico and southern California until the arrival of spring when they wake up to mate and migrate back to the summer homes. There they lay eggs and die.

In spite of the most sincere researching, Monarch butterflies have remained an enigma for humankind. We yet do not have any explanation to how these little winged creatures keep revisiting the same trees year after year and that being fourth generation offsprings!

Wingless Fleas

Sunday, March 25th, 2007

A Flea is a common small wingless insect. Fleas, being external parasites, live by hematophagy off the blood of mammals and birds that they live on. There is several different species of fleas, with the most well known being:

- Cat Flea

- Dog Flea

- Northern Rat Flea

- Oriental Rat Flea

It is rare that flea’s become damaging to their host; in most cases they are just nuisances. There can however become a problem when the host suffers an allergic reaction to the flea saliva. Spots where fleas bite are normally visible by a slightly raised and itchy swolled spot, that will have a single puncture at the center.

It is important to note that opposite to what I said above, fleas can transmit diseases. This is a rare scenario, but does happen, and an example is the bubonic plague where the disease was transferred between rodents and humans. If that is not bad enough Murine typhus fever and even some cases of tapeworms can be transmitted by fleas.

Fleas are busy little insects and will pass through a complete life cycle, egg to adult, in as short as two weeks to as long as eight months, depending on environment conditions. Generally after a blood meal a female flea will lay eggs, about 15 per day, and up to about 600 in its whole lifetime. The eggs are generally layed on the host, and will often times drop off the host. These Flea eggs take between 2 days to 2 weeks to hatch.

More Than A Regular Dog Wash

Saturday, March 24th, 2007

All of us dog owners know that it is important to keep our dogs squeaky clean and smelling fresh especially if we spend a lot of time with them hugging and playing around. It is more important especially if you or your kids let them sleep with you or in your rooms. They need to be clean so that you don’t get any allergies or worse contract skin diseases because of the bacteria and germs that they may be carrying with them.

It is every dog owner’s responsibility to regularly bathe and clean his dogs. Though most dogs don’t need to be bathed that often, this would be an appropriate time to do other necessary things like ensuring that your dog is free from fleas and ticks, brushing his teeth and cleaning his ears. This would be an appropriate time to do all these tasks at one time since it is quite difficult to let your dog stay still for these actions. These are things that we often neglect which are very important for a healthy and clean pooch.

Bathing your dogs would also create some bonding time with you and your beloved pet. While it is a fact that many dogs hate being bathed, they would definitely appreciate the special attention and affectionate gesture they will be receiving when you give them a bath.

Get rid of unwanted ticks and fleas

Despite all the efforts we exert in keeping our dogs clean, one way or another it may get some fleas and ticks often times. This is especially true if you live in a wooded vicinity or if you have a lot of plants. If your dog is also used to the habit of visiting and playing with other dogs, he may get the fleas and ticks from them. It is important that you solve the problem regarding your dog’s ticks and fleas at an early stage. Fleas and ticks nourish themselves with your dog’s blood supply and they bring with them diseases that could be harmful for your dog.

Ticks and fleas hide under your dog’s fur and it is best to look for them on the belly and under the collar area.

Dog’s teeth need brushing too

Just like our teeth, dog’s teeth also require regular brushing. Most pet doctors say that it is ideal to brush your dog’s teeth twice every week for their teeth and gums to be healthy. Your can buy from your neighborhood pet store a dog toothbrush and specially formulated toothpaste just for them. I know that at first brushing their teeth would be a struggle especially if they are not used to it but their toothpaste has been made to be of a taste that is pleasing for them. If there are times that you do not get the luxury of time to brush your dog’s teeth you can opt to have your dog eat dog biscuits that clean their teeth although brushing them is still the better option.

Clean Dog Ears

You can find a cleaning solution for your dog’s ears. Dip the cotton swab in the solution and lightly clean your dog’s ears. While you may encounter some problem in keeping your dog still this usually takes a short time.

7 Good Reasons to Have Your Cat Spayed or Neutered

Friday, March 23rd, 2007

Every year, many cat owners decide to get their cat spayed or neutered. This decision is made for several different reasons, all of which illustrate why it is such a good idea.

The many problems caused by un-spayed or un-neutered pets each year are part of what has prompted numerous humane societies to require that any adopted animals be promptly spayed or neutered as a condition of adoption. Many of the problems that are listed below would be alleviated if more people took the time to get their pets spayed or neutered.

With that kept in mind, here are the top seven reasons to have your cat spayed or neutered.

1. The most important reason is simply that there are too many unwanted litters of kittens. Millions of cats are euthanized each year. 90% of these animals would be acceptable for adoption into families, unfortunately, there simply are not enough families looking for cats to give these animals a good home. A single un-spayed female cat can produce three litters per year, with an average of four to six kittens per litter.

2. Unwanted cats that are not euthanized or adopted are often abandoned and become feral. It is estimated that the feral cat population is as large as the current number of cats that have homes. Feral cats can carry diseases as well as harm the populations of wild rodents and birds. As a result, a large feral cat population can have a damaging effect on the environment. By having your own cat spayed or neutered, you can ensure that your pet will not contribute to the growing problem.

3. Un-spayed female cats go into heat several times a year. By spaying your cat, you can prevent several unwanted behaviors, including spraying, hours of yowling, and you will not have to confine your cat for several weeks out of the year.

4. Male cats that have not been neutered are also more difficult to care for. Sexually mature male cats often feel a need to mark their territory. Also, the mating instincts in un-neutered cats cannot be curbed or controlled, and often these male cats will wander off for days at a time in search of a female that is in heat. Sometimes when male cats wander they get lost and do not come home. By neutering your cat, you can prevent this.

5. It is better for your cat’s health to be spayed or neutered. For example, female cats that are spayed before their first heat will have a reduced chance of mammary cancer, and will be unable to develop pyometra, which is a serious uterine condition that can cause death. Also, an unwanted pregnancy in an already ill or aging cat can be fatal. Male cats which have been neutered have less chance of being injured in fights over females, or of developing prostate problems

6. Spayed or neutered cats are often more friendly with their owners than they would usually be. Not only are the cats more friendly, but as has been mentioned before, there are fewer unwanted behaviors for their owners to contend with. It’s much easier to have a good relationship with your cat when you don’t have to worry about all of the unfortunate situations that come up after your pet has reached sexual maturity.

7. Getting your cat spayed or neutered will save you money in the long run. First, it can save you money by eliminating the need to replace furniture that has been damaged by a female cat in heat, or a male cat marking its territory. Next, since the procedure is fairly cheap, it may save you a lot of money by preventing health problems in your pets.

Something to remember: You should still get your cat spayed or neutered, even if you don’t think that you can afford the procedure. Look around in your area for cheap or even free services.

Saltwater Fish and Nano Reef Basics

Thursday, March 22nd, 2007

These basics are intended for a marine fish aquarium (and basic Nano Reefs), not an advanced marine reef aquarium. A properly set up and maintained salt water aquarium can be relatively easy to keep, in fact, sometimes easier than some freshwater fish such as discus.

These facts and opinions are based on my experience of keeping and professionally maintaining marine fish (and reef) aquariums for over 27 years with one of the largest aquarium maintenance companies in Los Angeles, California.

NANO REEFS:

For Nano reefs much of this basic information applies. I still recommend a UV sterilizer if it can be fitted to you nano reef (a small internal filter such as a Via Aqua 305 Internal Filter” connected to a compact UV works well)

*Cured live rock is a must.

*A fine #00 sand with a ½” layer of #3 sand on top works best in my opinion for cleaning and de-nitrification.

*Water changes and regular checks of water parameters are a must (do not forget to check alkali reserve, the same as KH in FW). Water parameters change more rapidly in a Nano aquarium.

*Two power compact light, changed every six months and cleaned regularly in between. They should be one daylight and one actinic or two 50/50.

[1] Filtration; Good filtration is a must for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available too.

Canister filters are good for their capacity, but can become Nitrate factories is not rinsed very regularly. I do not recommend Fluvals due to their poor impeller design. Via Aqua. Eheim, Jebo, and Magnum are the ones I recommend.

Wet/Dry filters are good, but usually are poor mechanical filters. The bio ball media in them also should be rinsed regularly in de-chlorinated water to prevent a buildup of organic material, increasing nitrates.

Sump systems with live rock, plants, and sponge filters work well. The live rock is excellent for aerobic filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal) and anaerobic filtration (nitrate removal). The live plants and green algae are good for nitrogen fixing and phosphate removal. The sponge filter is a simple to clean aerobic bio-filter and mechanical filter.

As for live rock, I strongly recommend using it. Make sure it is cured, many stores sell live rock right after it comes to them, and this is not cured live rock. Live rock arrives to the stores wrapped in newspaper and mostly dead by this time, it takes up to 6 weeks to fully cure live rock. Fully cured live rock has the benefit of containing aerobic and anaerobic bacteria; the later helps convert nitrates to nitrogen which is released harmlessly into the atmosphere. Cured live rock also contains many “creatures”, many of which are both interesting and beneficial. You may also create your own using rock high in calcium carbonate, or even dead coral skeletons by placing them under healthy cured live rock for a couple of months in a healthy aquarium (reef set ups are best for this). It is important to use very porous rock for the proper benefits of live rock

Hang on back filters are very limited, but can be used too, especially if combined with other bio filters. Internal filters are also limited, but once again are good combined with others.

Ecosystem mud filtration is effective for nitrate removal (due to the large colonies of anaerobic bacteria), they are much simpler to use than a protein Skimmer in my opinion (which I believe are over sold for fish aquaria).

Unfortunately there are many stores pushing these systems as the end all of filtration, and they are not. They are a good part of a system, but should not be the only part. Good mechanical, other types of bio filtration, and especially germicidal filtration are also important.

More on Nitrate Removal Filtration;

(A) As mentioned above, Mud filters can be very useful for Nitrate removal; you can make a simple one with a HOB filter or sump aquarium. (With the HOB you must place the media in fine mesh or nylon filter bags so as to not cause damage to the impeller, also keep bags out of heavy flow area of filter). [1] First use a 2 cm layer of #3 gravel on top. [2] Then 5 cm of #00 sand. [3] Then you can make your own anaerobic mulm from top soil; rinse fine top soil in a 10/1 bleach solution, then rinse again until clean (you can add a de-chlorinator to remove bleach). This goes on the bottom of the sump in a layer about 2 cm thick.

(B) Also as mentioned above; A lot of cured live rock is extremely helpful for nitrate removal

(C) Plants or green algae (such as caulerpa algae) in aquarium or refugium.

(D) Pre-Filters such as ATIs “Filter Max” on filter intakes; these are easily rinsed and remove organic matter before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle.

(E) Protein Skimmers

(F) Metal Halide lighting. I know this seems off subject, but I have found that Metal Halide lighting helps with nitrate levels, even when other filters are poor. I do not have scientific proof, but I believe the Redox potential (350 mV) this light helps maintain has a lot to do with this.

Filter redundancy is also important, as filters/pumps can break down. Extra filters also increase bio and mechanical filtration. An economical combination would be a sponge filter, internal filter, and a hang on back (power filter).

For more on filtration, please see this site: “Aquarium Filtration”

[2] Lighting; A 10,000 K Daylight bulb is a start, better would be a 50/50 daylight/ 420nm actinic bulb, or better yet would be one of each.

[3] Test Kits; an ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and KH (alkalinity) test kit are all important.

[4] Water Chemistry; Start with a good marine salt and mix it to a specific gravity of 1.019- 1.021 for fish.

Add trace elements and aquarium buffer. SeaChem makes an excellent product called Reef Calcium which maintains KH, adds bio available polygluconate complexed calcium. Many products available do not add both calcium and magnesium (such as Kalkwasser), and they are BOTH necessary together for proper chemistry and fish health. It should be noted, that unlike freshwater fish which absorb the water around them, marine fish drink the water constantly, which affects their internal body chemistry to the surrounding water.

Maintain Ammonia and nitrites at 0, pH at 8.2-8.4, kH at 200 ppm, Nitrates below 20 ppm. Change water regularly using a gravel vacuum, especially in areas of waste accumulation, this will help maintain low nitrates.

[5] UV Sterilization; UV Sterilizers are in my opinion, not essential, but are VERY important. UV Sterilizers help with disease prevention and also help maintain a proper Redox Potential (oxidation properties of water). The Redox Potential is often overlooked by many aquarists both SW and FW. For more information please see my article about “Aquarium UV Sterilization and how it works ”

[6] Proper Fish and feeding; do not over crowd a marine aquarium. The amount of fish depends on the aquarium surface area and the type of fish. My article “Basic Aquarium Principles” addresses this subject. Feed your marine fish according to the type of food they naturally eat in the wild. Aquatic based foods such as HBH Marine Flake or Spirulina 20 Flake are good generic fish foods for Tangs, angels, clown fish, ECT. (Angels also need sponge in their diet).

This is a basic article, for more information, find a good local dealer or see my blog “Aquarium Information”