Pets

The adult heartworm lives in the right chamber of the heart and pulmonary artery that routes blood through the lungs where carbon dioxide is removed and oxygen is added to the red blood cells. Infected hearts sometimes, become so full of worms that only a trickle of blood can get through. Mosquitoes are the main carriers of the disease. A single mosquito bite may imply a heartworm infection. Mosquitoes bite an infected dog and pick up some microfilaria from the blood meal. The microfilaria lives for about two weeks in the salivary glands of the mosquito.

When the mosquito bites a dog or a cat, it punches a little hole with some pinchers. It then releases some saliva which prevents the blood from clotting. As the mosquito starts sucking blood, some microfilaria finds their way into the wound. The microfilaria then begins to migrate through the tissue following veins to the heart. As the larva migrates, they molt and continue growing in size (insects have a rigid exterior, they need to molt or shed the exterior to grow in size). This process takes about six months in order to reach the adult size in the heart. Then, they begin giving birth to offspring, the microfilaria. The whole process then continues and is repeated over several times. The offspring cannot grow into adults without coming out of the animal and spending time with the mosquito at cooler temperatures. In other words, a mosquito is necessary. If it releases one microfilaria into the wound, only one adult heartworm would lodge in the body of the pet. The more times the pet is stung by infected mosquitoes, the more heart worms they acquire.

Treatment for heartworms in cats has a 70% treatment fatality rate. Symptoms are controlled with drugs such as steroids and antibiotics. Heartworm treatment in dogs is possible but it is very risky and expensive. The number of heartworms extant in a dog’s body can alter the outcome of treatment drastically. Since treatment is risky or sometimes even fatal, prevention is the best course of action. If you are in an area with mosquitoes, it is advisable that your dogs and cats take heartworm prevention.

The general appearance of the Affenpinscher is a balanced, wiry-haired terrier-like toy dog. The Affenpinscher is sturdy and compact with medium bone structure. The preferred height at the withers is 9 ½” to 11 1/2″. He has a square-like appearance.

The head is in proportion to the body, carried confidently with a monkey-like facial expression. The Affenpinscher has eyes that are round, dark, brilliant and of medium size in proportion to the head. The eyes are not bulging or protruding. Eye rims are black. The ears are cropped to a point, set high and standing erect, or natural, standing erect, semi-erect or dropped. All these types of ears are acceptable in the breed standard as long as the monkey-like expression is maintained. The skull is round and domed, not coarse. The stop is well-defined. The Muzzle is short and narrows slightly to a blunt nose. The nose is black, neither turned up nor down. The lips are black with a prominent lower lip. The bite is slightly undershot. Level bites are only acceptable if the monkey-like expression is maintained. An overshot bite is severely penalized.

The Affenpinscher’s neck is short and straight. The top line is straight and level. The chest is moderately broad and deep. The back is short and level with a strong loin. The tail may be docked or natural. A docked tail is between 1” and 2” long set high an carried erect. The natural tail is set high and carried gently curved up over the back while moving.

The Affenpinscher’s shoulders are moderately laid back. The length of the shoulder blade and the upper arm are about equal. Elbows are close to the body. Front legs of the Affenpinscher are straight when viewed from any direction. Dewclaws are generally removed. The feet of the Affenpinscher are small, round, compact and with black pads and nails.

The coat of the Affenpinscher is dense, rough, harsh and about 1” in length on the shoulders and body. The hair may be shorter on the rear and tail. The mature Affenpinscher has a mane or cape of strong hair which blends into the back coat at the withers area. To emphasize the monkey-like expression of the Affenpinscher the longer hair on the head, eyebrows and beard stands off and frames the face. The Affenpinscher’s coat needs little grooming to maintain a neat and shaggy appearance.

The Affenpincher is seen in colors of black, gray, silver, red, black and tan or beige. The blacks may have a rusty cast or a few white or silver hairs mixed with the black. The reds vary from brownish red to an orangey tan. Beigh has black, brown and/or whit ehairs mixed with red. Some Affenpinschers may have black masks or a small white spot on the chest. Large white patches are undesirable.

The gait of the Affenpinscher should be light, free, sound, balanced and confident. The Affenpinscher’s signature walk is that of comic seriousness.

The personality of the Affenpinscher should be alert, inquisitive, loyal and affectionate toward owner and friends. The Affenpinscher is generally quiet, but can become extremely excited when threatened or attacked and is not afraid toward any aggressor.

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Would you have guessed that there are around sixty-eight million dogs in America living in forty million households? Would you believe that nearly thirty billion dollars are spent on pets annually?

Clearly, Americans are animal crazy. There is little we will not do for our beloved pets. We take them with us wherever we can-to the corner store, a café, on a train. We buy them gourmet food, order customized beds for them and dress them in specially made clothing. We are attentive to their every need, making sure they also have top of the line health care.

In many ways, we treat our pets like our children. We shower them with affection and bask in their attention. And when something goes wrong and Spot or Fluffy suddenly falls ill, we do whatever we can to fix it right away.

In turn, it is important for pet owners to have comprehensive and up-to-date information about medical treatments and nutrition available to them 24/7. While it is true that their vets may be their best resource, these vets may not be the most reliable. For example, what happens if your vet is on a lunch break when you call or if the office is closed for the day when Spot gets tangled in a fence?

A website that lists the latest news on vaccines, diets, exercise programs, and emergency animal treatment is priceless. In an emergency situation, the pet’s owner does not have time to spare; answers are needed right away. Logging on to a pet care resource site takes just seconds and it will provide the facts they need immediately.

Owners can also save money by using a pet care site. If one can find a solution to Fluffy’s dry skin problem on the internet, there will be no need to schedule an expensive consultation with a doctor (and Fluffy will be thrilled that she is being spared the stress of an office visit!).

The best pet care websites also offer money saving opportunities. If you are a pet store owner, maybe a local brand of fish food will offer a discount to your viewers, or perhaps you could post a reduced price on dog toys for anyone who comes into your store and mentions your website. Obviously, there are numerous promotional possibilities. All you need is a clever idea and an attractive web presence.

Here are some other examples of what can be included on a resourceful site:

• Information about pet boarding
• Information about pet travel and safety
• Using your pet as protection in your home
• Common diseases and common cures in household pets
• Allergies: Human and Animal
• Grooming techniques (traditional and otherwise)
• Training techniques for large and small animals
• Breeder information for dogs, cats, horses, etc.

Having a well designed and informative website is a huge bonus for your clients and you. Whether you run a veterinary service, own a pet store, or at a trendy pet “barkery,” the internet can help you to advertise and expand your customer base. A website shows that you are serious about reaching out to your community and providing helpful information.

I do a lot of writing in various areas and much of it has to do with how to do things. Usually, the articles are fairly general and are related to more extensive and complex resources available online. After all, one short article isn’t going to be enough to teach you how to house train a dog. The point though is that, in almost every case, people’s apparent inability to achieve their goal, whether it’s how to potty train a dog or stop a cat’s destructive behavior, is almost always the result of not actually carrying through and doing it.

There are books, training videos, probably vast MP3 collections, all of which can teach you or show you how to house train a dog. Now there are some people who are collectors. They just love to get everything about dog training, dogs, dog breeds all the way to the that non-existent but highly desirable “The Everything Dog Training and Trick Book”. Others are really looking for a solution but keep going from one to another looking for something that requires no effort on their part. Just like everything else in life, potty training a dog takes actual work and effort on your part.

The amount of work involved in potty training a dog is not a back-breaker, but you need to learn how to go about it. You need to pay close attention to the process and you need to carry through with the training. There’s just no other way. Nobody’s selling a magic wand you just wave around - and Shazaam, you don’t need to know how to house train your dog because - miraculously - your dog has become instantly potty trained. Somehow though, a lot of folks seem to keep thinking that if they keep looking eventually they’ll find that easy magic solution.

Hopefully, you now get the idea of what the first step in house training a dog - or, in fact, any kind of dog or pet training is. You have to decide you are serious enough about it to actually do it even if it takes some time and effort. If you can’t do that then there’s absolutely no point in spending any money on a course or videos or an ebook on how to house train a dog. You’re going to need the money for cleaning expenses.

To help get through that first block, think about what a nasty unending on-going mess you will have to deal with if your dog is not house trained. Day after day, week after week. Dogs can live a long time.

This same principle applies to any undesirable behavior. A well trained dog makes a fair more pleasant companion and requires far less work on your part. And an untrained dog can be a serious risk, especially if it has aggressive tendencies.

Learning how to house train a dog is generally the first step that people want to take with a new puppy. But it should also fit into learning how to train your dog to be a great companion. You are supposed to be the boss and that means you do need to learn how to be good master or mistress. That can make the difference between a wonderful experience and an ongoing miserable struggle with your dog that no one wins.

There are some excellent guides, in different styles, which are easily available on the internet. Generally, which might be best for you depends on your style and how you learn best. If you prefer to read and are interested in more detail and information, then an ebook with step-by-step instructions on how to house train a dog (with pictures, of course) might be the best solution.

On the other hand, if you learn more easily by watching video and listening, then a video course might be better. There are advantages to both and many people have found it helpful to eventually get more than one guide.

Whichever style is best for you, these guides offer you more than simply a method on how to house train a dog. The best ones teach you step by step how to solve other common dog behavior problems and teach you methods you can use to deal with whatever undesirable behavior problems your dog develops. Life with a dog can be very satisfying and enjoyable, but it is also largely dependent on you taking the steps necessary to learn how to train your dog.

Copyright (c) 2006 Richard Keir

Your Shih Tzu matron will keep her whelping box clean the first few weeks. She will stimulate her Shih Tzu puppies to eliminate and ingest their wastes. Newborn Shih Tzu puppies are born incompletely developed. The Shih Tzu matron must stimulate them to urinate and defecate or the puppies become toxic and die.

The whelping box still needs to be cleaned and disinfected daily. Use ¾ cup Clorox bleach to one gallon of water. Clorox bleach is highly effective against Parvo virus. Your Shih Tzu dam’s discharge must never be profuse, overly bright red, greenish or odorous. Should any of these conditions occur, call your veterinarian for advice.

Change the Shih Tzu whelping box linens daily the first week and twice daily thereafter. Do not allow the bedding to become damp. Chilling is fatal to newborn Shih Tzu puppies. Bedding in the whelping box should be completely flat. Shih Tzu puppies can become lost under wrinkled bedding.

Newborn Shih Tzu puppy stools should be checked as they eliminate. A bright or strangely colored stool, yellowish streaked, foamy or mucoid of consistency are signs of trouble. Hard stools accompanied by straining and crying or loose stools of a diarrheic condition are indicative of life-threatening conditions. Normal Shih Tzu puppy stool has form, is not overly hard, runny or mucoid. It is brown and holds together in a soft but formed “rope.”

The only time a Shih Tzu matron should wear a collar is when you take her out the yard or to the vet. Remove the collar prior to whelping and throughout the time Shih Tzu puppies are near their dam. Do not use flea collars when the dam is with her Shih Tzu puppies.

Four interlocking layers of opened newspaper on the floor over heavy plastic film such as that used by painters are helpful in preventing serious cleanup problems. It is not necessary to discard plastic sheeting after each use. Clean with a solution of ¾ cup Clorox bleach and 1 gallon of water.

While most Garden Buffs can hardly wait for spring and summer to arrive, many pet owners fear this lovely time of year. They know it’s the beginning of flea and tick season. While the exact time when these tiny pests appear en masse to torture pets and humans alike may vary, a wise Pet Owner starts to prepare for their arrival as the snow melts, flowers bloom or the temperatures start to climb.

Preparation can help avoid infestation. Flea and ticks may seem like super-pests that are able to thwart even professional efforts to get and keep them out, but they are not as tough as you might think. In most cases, people actually invite these pests on to their property and into their homes by their action or inaction. They do this by creating a flea and tick friendly environment.

I received a letter from a big city apartment dweller a few years ago. He had a small dog and lived in a clean, well-kept New York City apartment. He took stellar care of his dog, had his place professionally cleaned and always made sure that his pet avoided contact with other animals and areas likely to be infested. Despite all these precautions, his pet always ended up with fleas. Having lived in the Big Apple myself for a number of years, I knew that his problem was a common one. People who live in urban areas or clean suburban neighborhoods fail to understand how their pets get flea and tick infestations. Well, it’s a lot easier than you might think.

During my days in New York City, I watched more then a few people walk their pets near trees. I mean, when a dogs gotta go, they’ve gotta go! The problem is that almost all trees in urban or suburban settings have grass, weeds or some other form of flora near or around them. That grass is rarely trimmed to proper standards. Fleas love tall grass because it’s just a hop, skip and jump to the next animal that happens along to use the nearby tree as an animal restroom. Ticks also have a field day with these areas. Animals free and clear of these tiny pests interact with infested pets and you know the rest of the story.

There are just no shortcuts to preventing flea and tick infestation. It is all about cleanliness, vigilance and making the right choices. Providing a clean and well-kept environment for your pet is the best way to avoid infestation. Problem areas include refuse storage, lawns, trees, plants and bushes. Problem situations include contact with other animals and exposure to environments outside of your residence.

Let’s begin with the garbage. Refuse areas are the perfect breeding ground for all kinds of pests. Keeping the inside and outside of garbage containers clean and making sure they are tightly covered is a step in the right direction. However, you also have to be sure that pets cannot get near or have regular contact with the containers or the area where they are kept. Pets are attracted to the smell of garbage (which you might not even be able to detect). So are other animals. Birds and various animal visitors to your property can bring unwelcome pests. These pests can end up infesting your pets. Refuse areas should be fenced off or placed outside of your pet‘s roaming area. Bird feeders should be placed away from areas where your pet eats, drinks or exercises.

Wild birds carry a number of tiny pests and diseases that can seriously affect the health of domesticated pets. When birds use pet water bowls to drink or bath, they can pass all kinds of health problems along to your animals. A large or concentrated number of bird droppings are also a major problem. While you cannot avoid having birds visit your yard or balcony, you can help limit their access to your pet by not going out of your way to welcome large numbers of them. Feed and water your pets inside. Avoid Bird Feeders if you have pets that eat, drink or exercise nearby. Keep pets inside when you seed your lawn.

The best way to place a NO VACANCY sign on your property when it comes to fleas and ticks is to avoid creating a pest friendly environment. Keep your lawn, trees and bushes trimmed. Use small portable gardening fences or other means of containment to keep your pet away from areas between bushes, small trees, gardens and your house. Purchase flea and tick preventive lawn sprays. These attach to your garden hose and allow the spray to be easily applied to your lawn, trees, plants and bushes. Most of these spray products are available at large pet or department stores. Outside areas should be sprayed once a month from March until October (and later if temperatures remain mild). If your pet has access to a balcony, patio, deck or garage, these areas need to be kept clean as well and may also be treated with anti-flea and tick sprays available in aerosol cans.

Dog Houses, concrete Pet Runs and containment areas can become havens for all kinds of bacteria, pests and disease. Unless you have a specific need to have these artificial areas on your property, don’t bother with them. Your pet is better off without them. These kinds of areas require a huge amount of maintenance and cleaning. Even when properly maintained and cleaned, it’s difficult to keep these structures free of troublesome pests.

Once you get the clean pet area thing down, you have another big hurdle to jump. Spring is the perfect time to take advantage of public picnic and park facilities. We all love to take our pets to the park and show them off. Well, fleas and ticks love that too. As pets meet and mingle, all kinds of pests and health threats rear their ugly heads to threaten your beloved pet. That is why it’s smart to stay away from public areas with lots of other pets, wild animals, tall grass and poorly maintained flora.

If you’ve got Spring Fever, curb your enthusiasm and keep your pet safe. I just cringe when I see people bring their pets out to public areas and allow them to run all over the place unleashed. That’s wrong on so many levels and it is an even bigger problem during flea and tick season. Maybe they watched too many Lassie reruns and have a vision of their dog running across a high grass meadow to save old Mister Hobbs who had a heart attack while plowing his field? Perhaps they saw Free Willy, all the sequels and want to give their pet a respite from the gated existence they endure as domesticated pets? Either way, letting your pet run free in public areas is not doing them or any one else any favors (except fleas and tick, they love you for it).

Another way to help keep your pet free of pests is by keeping the outside from coming inside. During the 1970s, everyone wanted to be Grizzly Adams. My mother loved to go walking out in the country (as long as it consisted of meadows off any one of a number of local expressways, parkways or highways). She brought all kinds of wild plants and berries into the house from those places. My favorite was the time that she decided to make Dandelion Wine, spent a couple of days collecting Dandelions and a couple of months trying to get the vile brew to taste like something someone would actually drink.

After any one of her attempts to get closer to nature, our home quickly filled with wild flora and all kinds of annoying flies, tiny flying insects and other annoying bugs that came along for the ride or were attracted by them. My Mom got really mad at me when I kept insisting that she had caused a fly with a human head to be brought into the house after collecting a bunch of wild plants and ferns from near an old research laboratory. I think the fly kept saying, “Help ME…Help ME!” The object lesson here is to keep inside plants and wild foliage brought in from the outside away from your pets. Trudging around nature and making it welcome in your dwelling can bring many tiny pests into your pet’s environment. May I suggest getting your inside flora from a reputable Nursery?

Because fleas and ticks have become such a big problem, there are now a number of indoor and outdoor chemical treatments available for your pet and their environment. Given the possible repercussions of exposing a pet to any chemicals, I suggestion you ask your Veterinarian for their input on these choices before using any. They are some natural choices that produce the same result.

A natural flea repellent can be produced by cutting up a lemon, allowing it to sit in a spray bottle overnight and then spaying it liberally on your dog. Avoid their eyes, but spray behind their ears. The spray can also be used on your pet‘s environment. A small amount of eucalyptus oil can be added to the final rinse of your pet’s bedding to help keep those tiny varmints away. Fleas hate salt and it can kill them. If your dwelling is really hopping with fleas, apply a thin layer of salt to your floor, carpet and furniture, then vacuum. You will be surprised how effective salt can be against all kinds of annoying pests. Dogs who need a flea bath can be bathed with some Lavender oil. And then there’s the G-Bomb. Dogs hate garlic, but so do fleas and ticks. Garlic can be added to a nice piece of meat or chicken. When you pet sweats, they drop the G-Bomb on pests.

When it comes to fleas and ticks, they always prefer to come into a pest friendly environment. The best way to keep fleas and ticks away from your pet, your housing and yourself is by making sure that you do not put out a WELCOME sign. Keep your pet and their environment clean and well groomed. Pest proof your dwelling. Use common sense when taking your pet outside or away from home. Like poor relatives, it’s much easier to keep these pests out then to make them leave once they have found a nice place to stay.

Read more about Dog Care and health tips at http://doggiestyle.billknell.com. Adopt a puppy at http://www.AzToyDogs.com or http://www.ArizonaPups.com.

Housebreaking an older dog is not an impossible task. Although it is generally easier to housebreak a puppy, any dog can be housebroken given the proper techniques. First, before you begin, you must know how a dog thinks. I would say that a dog thinks 80% of the time with its nose, and the rest of the time with its other senses. If you look at animals in the wild, you’ll notice that most mammals like Wolves, Lions, Tigers, and Wild Dogs scent mark their territories. This is not only a sign of demarcation, but a place where these animals return to mark over and over again, in order warn other animals or their rivals that this is their territory.

It is precisely this habit that the distant cousins of wolves, our dogs, exercise on a daily basis. That is, dogs know and remember where to go “potty” by mainly using their sense of smell. Dogs a creatures of habit; therefore, they generally like to go “potty” after a meal, after they wake-up from a nap, and after they exercise. Your job is to recognize when your dog needs to “go” and guide it to the pre-designated area before it does its business. Thus, you must monitor your dog for at least 2 weeks until the desired outcome is programmed into your dog’s psyche.

So, what are you to do if your dog makes a mistake and “goes” in the middle of your living room? The answer depends on whether you catch your dog in the middle of the act or not. If you catch it in the middle of the act, you can say something like “no,” and quickly lead your dog to the desired location before it finishes doing its business. If, however, you find the mess after the fact, you must NEVER punish your dog. Your dog simply won’t understand what it is being punished for and it will soon learn to fear you instead of look at you as its leader.

The question then is “what should one do if one finds the mess after the fact?” My advice is as follows: take a newspaper or towel and rub it onto the mess; then, take it back to the location where you desire your dog to “potty,” and smear that area. This will teach your dog to use its natural instincts (to scent mark) to go “potty” exactly where you want it to. But you still are not done yet! Now you must erase your dog’s memory of the location in your house where it had gone “potty” by properly cleaning the spot with the right cleaning agent. Cleaning with ordinary household cleaners is a bad idea. Most household cleaners contain Ammonia; the very ingredient in Urine which arouses a dog’s instinct to scent mark. So, instead of using ordinary household cleaners, use a product like “Nature’s Miracle,” which is specifically designed to remove the smell of urine and feces and erase you dog’s memory of the previous location where it had done its business.

The key to housebreaking an older dog is patience. Be patient, and you dog will learn to do what you ask of it in no time.

No one knows when the concept of using assistance animals for

the blind first came into being. It is suggested that dogs have

been used in such a capacity in various cultures for a very long

time. It is known, however, that there was no formal guide dog

program in existence until after the First World War.

Why German Shepherds?

Many people have probably wondered why guide dogs and Seeing Eye

dogs are so often German Shepherds. The reason is actually

twofold. First of all the German Shepherd has a strong sense of

loyalty to its owner, giving it a natural tendency to be

protective. Having a very protective dog as a companion is an

obvious asset for someone who may otherwise be easily attacked

by less then scrupulous individuals. The other reason is far

simpler; the first guide dogs for the blind and visually

impaired were trained in Germany to provided assistance for

those blinded in the war.

After the end of World War I the nation of Germany was

devastated by financial depression. Many private businesses

failed and the Potsdam, Germany school that trained the guide

dogs for the blind was one of them.

The Beginning

An American woman named Dorothy Eustis had heard about the

program and decided it was a very worthwhile endeavor. Because

she owned a company that was training German Shepherds as

working dogs, she decided she might try to train guide dogs for

the blind. She did not start this right away, however. In fact

she was still considering the possibilities when she penned a

story for The Saturday Evening Post about the potential for

guide dogs for the blind.

A Nashville man named Morris Frank had heard the story and

decided to write to Ms. Eustis and ask her to train a dog for

him. She did and Mr. Frank became known as the first blind

person to use a guide dog.

As part of an arrangement he’d made with Ms. Eustis, Mr. Frank

started training guide dogs in the United States. The foundation

that Mr. Frank started was dubbed “The Seeing Eye” and the

so-called Seeing Eye dog was effectively born.

Today guide dogs are trained to assist people with many

different disabilities. There are Hearing Ear dogs to assist the

deaf and other dogs that assist the physically disabled. All of

the people who have benefited from the use of a guide dog,

however, owe their thanks to Mr. Morris Frank of Nashville,

Tennessee

Leaves are falling and paws are crunching in the parks….

What a beautiful time of the year to get out with your canine companion and enjoy the crisp, cool air, frolic in the falling leaves and take in the visual splendor of nature. A walk in the woods can be an exhilarating experience for you and your dog, especially if you’ll take a moment for some basic dog care preparations. Minimize surprises and emergencies by following these simple steps.

I don’t know about you, but I will drive hours to find a place where the dogs can run free in nature. We all love it and often spend the whole day in the mountains together. I’ve developed a list of easy dog care to-do’s to ensure we have a great time and arrive and leave together safely.

I recommend the following items for your outdoor adventures:

1. Orange vests for you and your dog

This may sound like overkill, but I recently had an experience with my dogs that scared me. I was out in the woods with my dogs when I heard shots fired not far from me. I couldn’t see my dogs and terror ran through me. Immediately I realized we were not prepared for the hunters. Bright colored vests would have helped the hunters know we were not deer, and please don’t shoot us. Every year you hear the stories of accidental shootings. Don’t be the next casualty — don your orange vests!

2. Current dog tags on collars

Keeping a collar and current dog tags on your dog helps others get him home if you get separated. One thing I have recently done is change the dog tags to read “I must be lost. Please call Mom. (xxx) xxx-xxxx”. This gives all the pertinent information, yet doesn’t provide information for an easy abduction. I don’t want someone to know my babies’ names, which might lead the dogs to believe the stranger is a friend.

3. Foot and body check during and after the outing

I check my dogs’ paws and body frequently to remove the debris from the fall season — gum balls, seeds, burrs, rocks, thorns, pine needles, and leaves can add up to irritation or lameness.

4. Fresh water and a bowl

If I can help it, I don’t let my dogs drink standing water. I carry fresh water instead. I have had to deal with stomach problems in the past from bacteria in standing water. Carrying your own water is a small thing, but doing it can prevent lots of pain and suffering, a vet bill, and a 10-day supply of antibiotics.

5. Towels

I love towels, lots and lots of towels. To me, dropping dirty towels in the washer is much easier and less smelly than detailing a car or working to get that horrible wet, dirty dog smell out of fabric and carpet in my truck.

6. Whistle — long range

Lastly, I whistle-trained my dogs. If we do separate, a blow on the whistle has them running to me. Chances are, they don’t like not being able to see me and will be happy to have me back in their sights. I highly recommend the ACME whistle that sounds from 2-5 miles. Get it on a lanyard and carry it with you.

These 6 simple steps can make your outdoor trip so much more enjoyable, for you and your dogs. And paying attention to the basics in dog care shows your dog just how much you love her.

Happy hiking!

Introduction

Your dog’s health and wellbeing is important to you and your family. Not to mention keeping down the cost of veterinarian bills! So you need to carefully consider the food that you give your dog. People sometimes just pick the first dog food bag they see at the store. It’s easy to overlook the importance of dog food but it is essential to pick the right one for your dog.

To keep your dog healthy he needs plenty of fresh water and should be fed good quality dog food in amounts just right to meet his energy requirements. Always follow the guidelines on the dog food package for recommended feeding amounts.

Picking a dog food

The first challenge in choosing a dog food is picking one that has overall quality. The term that comes up a lot about dog food is human grade. Human grade implies that the dog food is good enough for us to eat. Many commercial dog foods are made from materials unusable or less desirable for human consumption. Often the meat that is used in dog food is of a quality considered unfit for humans to eat.

Major dog food companies try to provide balanced proportions of vitamins and minerals for maximum benefit to your dog. Although you may see that many brands of dog food have almost identical labels, a reputable dog food company will provide an explanation for each supplement and how it benefits your dog.

Always read the label to see what proteins, vitamins and minerals are being provided to your dog. Try not to use store brand dog food they may short change your dog on much needed nutrition.

Studies have shown that the primary ingredient in dog food should be meat-based protein, not corn meal, flour or corn gluten meal. According to reviews a better quality dog food results in a healthier coat, fewer digestive problems and firmer stools. Pet-nutrition experts agree that the best dog food is made from human-grade ingredients like meat, whole grains and vegetables. Premium dog food is so important because good nutrition is essential for a long, healthy life.

Types of dog food

There are many varieties of dog food to choose from. The three most popular types of dog foods are dry, semi-moist and canned products. Check the color of your dog food. Usually dog food made from natural ingredients will have soft earth tones and contain no preservatives, artificial colors and flavors.

Raw dog food is becoming more popular. More and more veterinarians recommend feeding your dog with raw dog food. They feel that this is the best choice and is the healthiest food for your dog. After all, you’ve never seen your dog enjoy commercial dog food the way he enjoys a good meaty bone.

Raw food advocates concede the diet costs more than traditional dog food, but they argue it’s worth it. You may find that locating free natural home made dog food recipes is not easy. Try making a mixture of ground turkey, rice and carrot as your own dog food. Your dog will thank you for it.

If you decide to go the commercial route, try and choose a good premium dog food since it contains more energy and protein than an economy brand. Unfortunately not all dog food brands contain high quality and natural ingredients, so always check the label. It is best if you seek advice from your veterinarian before deciding on which dog food to feed your dog or puppy. He will know your dog’s dietary needs and you will find that veterinary offices and feed stores often carry excellent and natural dog food.

All Natural Dog Food

Many natural dog foods contain only fresh, natural and wholesome ingredients for your dog. Not only are the protein ingredients digestible, but the carbohydrates in the dog food are digestible. Natural dog food has 100% nutritional value which is important for healthy strong dogs. Chicken, egg and fish are examples of protein that is provided in natural dog food. There are also ingredients in natural dog food that really help the health of your dog’s skin and also your dog’s coat. One of the main draw backs of natural dog food is that it has a shorter shelf life and may spoil before it is used.

Dried Dog Food

A good high quality dry dog food will work out to be more economical than the generic brands even though they cost more per pound. A vast majority of dog owners go for dry dog food for its convenience and ease of storage. The cheaper dry dog foods are made from soybean, corn or rice, while many premium dry dog foods are made with all-natural, human-grade ingredients.

Vegetarian dog foods

There are dog foods specially formulated for dogs that are allergic to wheat, corn, and/or chicken. There are also vegetarian dog foods marketed to owners who do not want their dogs to consume meat products. Most vegetarian dog foods use soy as a protein source. If your dog has allergies consult your vet before putting him on a specialized diet.

Conclusion

Overall it’s usually best to let dogs enjoy dog food and not our food, even though they may prefer what we’re eating! Of course you can feed your dog treats from time to time, every dog needs some TLC from time to time!