Archive for December, 2006

Dog Behavior Training - Why You Should Train Your Dog

Thursday, December 21st, 2006

On the surface, dog training may look like a waste of time. Why train your dog to learn tricks? What good are they? Your dog already knows the basics, so why should you do more than that? Oh, sure, Joe’s dog can play dead and roll over. So, obviously Joe has far too much time on his hands. Why bother? Well, primarily training beyond the basics has three very good advantages; socialization, safety, and bonding.

Socializing your dog is simply the act of making him a pleasure to be around for people and other dogs alike. Who wants to be around a dog - especially a large one - who jumps on everyone with whom he comes in contact? If you have a dog that jumps, you may feel forced to resign him to the backyard when company visits, which may in turn make an annoying barker out of him as he feels left out of social gatherings. But if you treat the problem by training him not to jump, you will enable him to enjoy the company of others when they come for a visit. You will be able to do things with him like go to the park and walk in areas where there are other people and dogs.

One of a pet owner’s biggest fears is losing control over their pet and possibly having them end up hit by a car or worse. Additional training can give you a nice little safety net when faced with those circumstances. Suppose your dog bolted out of the door ahead of you after a cat? When you do catch up to him, he is on the opposite side of a busy street. His first reaction may be to bound towards you. A simple gesture as small as a hand signal can tell him to stop and stay put until you can safely get to him and escort him back across the street.

Aside from those two very practical reasons to train your dog, however, there is a third benefit that busy people sometimes overlook. Time spent training your dog is time the two of you will spend together. If you’ve ever built a model with your kid or fixed a computer or baked a cake with a friend, you know that accomplishing a goal with a loved one can be a valuable bonding experience. Dogs are not immune to this. If you spend just a few minutes each day training your dog, it will give both of you a sense of accomplishment and bring you closer together.

Don’t leave out the party tricks either! As soon as the basics are mastered, there is no reason to stop the learning process. Keep going - see how far you and your dog can go!

Bad Dog? I Don’t Think So

Wednesday, December 20th, 2006

One of the things I run into often is people telling me about the “bad” behavior they see in their dog or cat… I cringe everytime I hear it.

I have always contended that animals do not show “bad” or “good” behavior. They just respond to their environment, be it immediate stimulus or things they’ve been sitting on for a while.

We humans have asked our animals to behave in ways that we perceive as “good”. But I would contend that we actually ask them to behave in a “desirable” fashion. Show me the behaviors that I find acceptable and not undesirable.

Jumping up to give “kisses” is undesirable to many people. But to dogs, it’s a way to say hello. (Just like butt sniffing… but I digress) Cats scratch on furniture. Cat’s NEED to scratch but do they do it to be mean or bad? No, they do it to satisfy a need.

The biggest issue I hear about is inappropriate urination. I often hear things like the dog or cat is intentionally peeing on the rug or on the bed… etc etc… but in all my years of being around animals, not once have I seen this. I’ve seen dogs urinate in front of people, but more often than not, they have a urinary tract infection and need to let their people know it. Cats often refuse the litter box due to some emotional issue.

Before we label any behavior as bad, we should always look to find the root of the problem. Whenever your dog or cat (or ferret or whatever manner of critter you have) starts showing a behavior that is new (even if it’s sleeping more often), there are things you should do.

  1. Take your critter to the vet. Rule out any physical problems first! I know of a dog that started urinating by the door and it was two months and a few bloody spots later before the owners figured out it was a UTI and not just a “spiteful” dog.
  2. Keep a record. Mark you calendar everytime you see this new behavior. What else happened on that day? Did you change food? Was someone visiting? Did you neighbors have a new roof put on?
  3. Remain calm and patient. Rest assured that your critters are not doing these things to be mean. Animals are not vengeful. Fluffy didn’t puke in your shoes to tick you off.
  4. Reduce the stress in your home. What is different about you? Job got you down? Kids making you nuts? Try meditation or just taking 10 minutes to yourself once in a while and just be still.
  5. Consider alternative or complementary products. Flower Essences are effective, relatively inexpensive and safe to use. There are no known side effects and the results can be amazing.
  6. Contact a professional. Whether it’s an animal behaviorist or an animal communicator, seek out someone who can help you.

Remember, good and bad are terms that we have given to our animal’s. Animals are just trying to live their best life and are communicating in the only way that most humans listen. With their actions.

UK Pet Medications

Tuesday, December 19th, 2006

In the UK, most pet medications sold are prescriptions-only-medications (POMs). POMs are supplied by manufacturers to veterinary wholesalers and doctors. They in turn, sell these to pet owners. POMs in the UK are much more expensive than in any other part of Europe.

In the UK, there are some service institutions run by nurses for pet medication. They give medications to pets by visiting the houses of pet owners. They provide services for pets such as dogs, cats, birds and fish. Their services are available for 365 days a year. These service providers cover the area of UK on a case-by case-basis. They give topical medications, oral medications and injections. They usually charge a small fee for giving injections. If necessary, they take the pets with them to the veterinary surgeon. They also suggest food prescriptions to be followed. For new pet owners, they give an initial consultation free of charge.

These service providers charge extra price on additional number of pets. The pet owners have to book in advance for consultation purposes. 50% of the cost is required as security deposit at the time of the first booking. The balance will be collected at the time when they visit the homes of pet owners. One can pay the money by check, cash or by availing credit card facilities or bank transfer. When they visit the home of pet owners, they even clean the cages of these pets, give food and water for pets, and record the activities of pets.

There are some UK pet pharmaceutical companies which offer non-prescription drugs and vaccines, and some others offer pet services. Some of these companies offer on-line services to the public for purchasing pet medications.

The Veterinary Medicines Directorate controls the pet medicines in UK. It is an offence to place a pet medicine in the market if the medicine has not been granted a market authorization by the Secretary of state. The holder of market authorization will be found guilty if the pet medicines supplied do not maintain the standards of marketing authorization.

Should Outside Cats Use A Collar

Monday, December 18th, 2006

Most cat owners find themselves in a quandary over whether or not to use a cat collar on their outdoor cats. The debate still reigns over the pros and cons of outfitting an outside cat with a collar, but many veterinarians and cat experts agree that collars are the best way to go. However, before you decide, take a look at these pros and cons:

Pros:

• Cat collars can hold identification and registration tags. This is critical in case your outdoor cat becomes lost or is picked up by a concerned individual. Also, collars can hold bells or other noise generating items to scare away potential prey.

• Many cat collars are equipped with reflective material. Whether the collar is made completely out of reflective material or only contains a small strip, this will help your cat to become more visible in the dark. Cats, especially those of dark color, can become invisible at night, which is a potentially dangerous situation.

Cons:

• Cat collars can easily snag and cause your cat to become hung or stuck on branches, fences, or anything else in the great outdoors. Some cats have actually been strangled when their collar has gotten caught and cut off the animal’s air supply.

• Your cat may not be comfortable wearing a collar or the collar may be too heavy for the animal.

Given these pros and cons, consider choosing a collar that will maximize the positives and minimize the negatives. For example, there are many collars on the market that are specially designed to break away or unclasp when the cat is hung. These collars are considered strangle-proof and release when approximately seven pounds of pressure is applied. This way, the cat can break him—or her—self free from any snare.

Furthermore, there are many different types of collars on the market. Bring your feline friend with you to the local pet-friendly pet store and try on several different types of collars until you find one that best fits. Avoid choosing a harness for outdoor cats unless you plan on walking the cat on a leash. If this is the case, only allow your cat to wear a harness while supervised, as most are not snare-proof.

On a whole, collars are encouraged on cats that spend their time outside and inside. In addition to providing visibility to your animal, the collar will hold valuable identification information that will protect your cat and assist you in finding your pet.

Dog Obedience Schools: 4 Tips For Choosing The Right Dog Training Schools

Sunday, December 17th, 2006

Narrowing down your choices of dog obedience schools can be challenging, especially if you are a new dog owner that doesn’t know what to look for in a dog training school.

Many new dog owners believe that dog obedience school is only suited for puppy obedience training and that their older dogs will not be accepted into the class. Although some schools focus on puppy training, most schools offer classes for dogs of all ages and all levels of training.

Remember that while dog obedience training is to help teach the basic commands, it can also be a great way to spend time with your dog and to help them bond with you. If you are having a specific problem with your pet, such as they are rolling in stinky stuff or running away every time you open the door, there are also classes that are specifically geared towards this type of obedience problems.

Once you decide that you are interested in attending dog obedience training with your pooch, it is best to take a few minutes to research exactly what to look for in an obedience school.

Types of Training:

Some dog owners might be looking for basic command training, while others will be looking for advanced training to use their dogs for agility challenges, fowl hunting and retrieving and even for training. As well, some schools will focus on a certain type of training, so it is important to consider whether their training matches your needs as a dog owner. It is also helpful to look for a dog training school that offers various levels of obedience training, in case you would like to continue on with your dog training to help remain consistent with your dog.

Methods of Training:

Before you rush into the nearest dog training school and sign up for classes, you should attend an orientation or another training class to get an idea of what type of training the instructor or instructors will be using. Remember that just as you might not agree with the method a fitness instructor uses for teaching a class, you also might not agree with the training methods an instructor uses for teaching a dog obedience class.

Instructor Experience:

One of the most important things to look for is the type of experience the instructor has working with dogs. Are they simply a dog lover that is really good with animals or have they actually received formal dog obedience training? Remember that not all states will require dog instructors to have formal training, so it is up to your discretion to determine whether the instructor is suited to teach classes.

References:

Because there are so many different schools to choose from, you really should select a school that offers references from satisfied customer. You may also want to verify these references by asking veterinarians or local dog owners that have completed dog obedience schools.

Make Homemade Dog Beds

Saturday, December 16th, 2006

How about making a homemade dog bed or two? Just follow the easy instructions below:

BASIC DOG PAD

Materials

  • Old quilt (or sleeping bag-the kind that unzips and opens out into a square or rectangle)
  • Sewing machine or needle and thread Velcro (optional)
  • Super strong glue (optional)

Instructions

  • Fold the quilt lengthwise in half or thirds
  • Try it out in the back of your vehicle or doghouse
  • Above all, make sure it’s big enough for your dog to lie on!
  • For a smaller dog, cut off some of the length
  • Use the remainder as an extra layer or two
  • Sew the edges together or
  • Use Velcro strips at least 3 inches (75mm) long at strategic points
  • Note: Adhesive Velcro is easiest to apply, but doesn’t always stick that well. You may need to secure the strips by sewing them to the fabric or adding a strong glue

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“PILLOWCASE” FOAM BED

Materials

  • An old quilt or sleeping bag
  • Foam pad or pieces of foam, large enough to accommodate your dog
  • Straight pins
  • Marking pen
  • Needle and thread or sewing machine
  • Velcro or zipper to match width of pillowcase (optional)

Estimated Time

  • One to two hours

Estimated Cost

Will depend on how many of the materials you can scrounge:

  • Thread: About USD 0.30
  • Zipper: USD 0.00 if you can take one off an old couch cushion, sleeping bag or something you’re no longer wearing; otherwise up to USD 6.00
  • Velcro: Up to USD 4.00

Instructions

  • Place the foam on the right side of your material about 1 1/4 inches (30mm) from the bottom edge and one side (per above)
  • Fold the remaining material over the foam
  • Leave the top end alone
  • Mark the bottom and side seam with your marker or pins, leaving a 1 1/4 inch (30 mm) seam allowance
  • Cut off the excess fabric
  • Sew along the marked seams by hand or machine
  • Turn your pillowcase inside out so the good side faces out
  • Insert the foam
  • If you have enough excess material at the top, you can simply fold it underneath the pad or
  • Add a zipper or Velcro for a fancier finish
  • The Velcro can be applied in strips at least 3 inches (75mm) long or in one long piece
  • Remember you may still need to sew the Velcro down or add extra glue, even if it is the adhesive kind

Bloodfin

Friday, December 15th, 2006

Family: Characidae

Species: Sphyocharax anisitsi

Size: 5.5cm (2 one quarter inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Streams and rivers of Argentina and Paraguay

Remarks: Bloodfins should be kept in shoals. They breed freely but eat their own eggs.

Other Names: Argentine Bloodfin, Red-finned Characin, Red-finned Tetra. Formerly classified as Aphyocharax rubripinnis.

Comments: As the name suggests, red is normally present in the fins of this silvery flanked species. The colour is not, however, very apparent on this juvenile. The male anal fin carries tiny hooks to assist in spawning, which may become entangled in an aquarium net. It has to be said that this is a very pretty fish due to the red colours it carries.

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This fish comes from the “Tropical Fish” family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called “GB Aquarium” and see what’s posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

Animal Care: Pet Pests Are Back!

Thursday, December 14th, 2006

While most Garden Buffs can hardly wait for spring and summer to arrive, many pet owners fear this lovely time of year. They know it’s the beginning of flea and tick season. While the exact time when these tiny pests appear en masse to torture pets and humans alike may vary, a wise Pet Owner starts to prepare for their arrival as the snow melts, flowers bloom or the temperatures start to climb.

Preparation can help avoid infestation. Flea and ticks may seem like super-pests that are able to thwart even professional efforts to get and keep them out, but they are not as tough as you might think. In most cases, people actually invite these pests on to their property and into their homes by their action or inaction. They do this by creating a flea and tick friendly environment.

I received a letter from a big city apartment dweller a few years ago. He had a small dog and lived in a clean, well-kept New York City apartment. He took stellar care of his dog, had his place professionally cleaned and always made sure that his pet avoided contact with other animals and areas likely to be infested. Despite all these precautions, his pet always ended up with fleas. Having lived in the Big Apple myself for a number of years, I knew that his problem was a common one. People who live in urban areas or clean suburban neighborhoods fail to understand how their pets get flea and tick infestations. Well, it’s a lot easier than you might think.

During my days in New York City, I watched more then a few people walk their pets near trees. I mean, when a dogs gotta go, they’ve gotta go! The problem is that almost all trees in urban or suburban settings have grass, weeds or some other form of flora near or around them. That grass is rarely trimmed to proper standards. Fleas love tall grass because it’s just a hop, skip and jump to the next animal that happens along to use the nearby tree as an animal restroom. Ticks also have a field day with these areas. Animals free and clear of these tiny pests interact with infested pets and you know the rest of the story.

There are just no shortcuts to preventing flea and tick infestation. It is all about cleanliness, vigilance and making the right choices. Providing a clean and well-kept environment for your pet is the best way to avoid infestation. Problem areas include refuse storage, lawns, trees, plants and bushes. Problem situations include contact with other animals and exposure to environments outside of your residence.

Let’s begin with the garbage. Refuse areas are the perfect breeding ground for all kinds of pests. Keeping the inside and outside of garbage containers clean and making sure they are tightly covered is a step in the right direction. However, you also have to be sure that pets cannot get near or have regular contact with the containers or the area where they are kept. Pets are attracted to the smell of garbage (which you might not even be able to detect). So are other animals. Birds and various animal visitors to your property can bring unwelcome pests. These pests can end up infesting your pets. Refuse areas should be fenced off or placed outside of your pet‘s roaming area. Bird feeders should be placed away from areas where your pet eats, drinks or exercises.

Wild birds carry a number of tiny pests and diseases that can seriously affect the health of domesticated pets. When birds use pet water bowls to drink or bath, they can pass all kinds of health problems along to your animals. A large or concentrated number of bird droppings are also a major problem. While you cannot avoid having birds visit your yard or balcony, you can help limit their access to your pet by not going out of your way to welcome large numbers of them. Feed and water your pets inside. Avoid Bird Feeders if you have pets that eat, drink or exercise nearby. Keep pets inside when you seed your lawn.

The best way to place a NO VACANCY sign on your property when it comes to fleas and ticks is to avoid creating a pest friendly environment. Keep your lawn, trees and bushes trimmed. Use small portable gardening fences or other means of containment to keep your pet away from areas between bushes, small trees, gardens and your house. Purchase flea and tick preventive lawn sprays. These attach to your garden hose and allow the spray to be easily applied to your lawn, trees, plants and bushes. Most of these spray products are available at large pet or department stores. Outside areas should be sprayed once a month from March until October (and later if temperatures remain mild). If your pet has access to a balcony, patio, deck or garage, these areas need to be kept clean as well and may also be treated with anti-flea and tick sprays available in aerosol cans.

Dog Houses, concrete Pet Runs and containment areas can become havens for all kinds of bacteria, pests and disease. Unless you have a specific need to have these artificial areas on your property, don’t bother with them. Your pet is better off without them. These kinds of areas require a huge amount of maintenance and cleaning. Even when properly maintained and cleaned, it’s difficult to keep these structures free of troublesome pests.

Once you get the clean pet area thing down, you have another big hurdle to jump. Spring is the perfect time to take advantage of public picnic and park facilities. We all love to take our pets to the park and show them off. Well, fleas and ticks love that too. As pets meet and mingle, all kinds of pests and health threats rear their ugly heads to threaten your beloved pet. That is why it’s smart to stay away from public areas with lots of other pets, wild animals, tall grass and poorly maintained flora.

If you’ve got Spring Fever, curb your enthusiasm and keep your pet safe. I just cringe when I see people bring their pets out to public areas and allow them to run all over the place unleashed. That’s wrong on so many levels and it is an even bigger problem during flea and tick season. Maybe they watched too many Lassie reruns and have a vision of their dog running across a high grass meadow to save old Mister Hobbs who had a heart attack while plowing his field? Perhaps they saw Free Willy, all the sequels and want to give their pet a respite from the gated existence they endure as domesticated pets? Either way, letting your pet run free in public areas is not doing them or any one else any favors (except fleas and tick, they love you for it).

Another way to help keep your pet free of pests is by keeping the outside from coming inside. During the 1970s, everyone wanted to be Grizzly Adams. My mother loved to go walking out in the country (as long as it consisted of meadows off any one of a number of local expressways, parkways or highways). She brought all kinds of wild plants and berries into the house from those places. My favorite was the time that she decided to make Dandelion Wine, spent a couple of days collecting Dandelions and a couple of months trying to get the vile brew to taste like something someone would actually drink.

After any one of her attempts to get closer to nature, our home quickly filled with wild flora and all kinds of annoying flies, tiny flying insects and other annoying bugs that came along for the ride or were attracted by them. My Mom got really mad at me when I kept insisting that she had caused a fly with a human head to be brought into the house after collecting a bunch of wild plants and ferns from near an old research laboratory. I think the fly kept saying, “Help ME…Help ME!” The object lesson here is to keep inside plants and wild foliage brought in from the outside away from your pets. Trudging around nature and making it welcome in your dwelling can bring many tiny pests into your pet’s environment. May I suggest getting your inside flora from a reputable Nursery?

Because fleas and ticks have become such a big problem, there are now a number of indoor and outdoor chemical treatments available for your pet and their environment. Given the possible repercussions of exposing a pet to any chemicals, I suggestion you ask your Veterinarian for their input on these choices before using any. They are some natural choices that produce the same result.

A natural flea repellent can be produced by cutting up a lemon, allowing it to sit in a spray bottle overnight and then spaying it liberally on your dog. Avoid their eyes, but spray behind their ears. The spray can also be used on your pet‘s environment. A small amount of eucalyptus oil can be added to the final rinse of your pet’s bedding to help keep those tiny varmints away. Fleas hate salt and it can kill them. If your dwelling is really hopping with fleas, apply a thin layer of salt to your floor, carpet and furniture, then vacuum. You will be surprised how effective salt can be against all kinds of annoying pests. Dogs who need a flea bath can be bathed with some Lavender oil. And then there’s the G-Bomb. Dogs hate garlic, but so do fleas and ticks. Garlic can be added to a nice piece of meat or chicken. When you pet sweats, they drop the G-Bomb on pests.

When it comes to fleas and ticks, they always prefer to come into a pest friendly environment. The best way to keep fleas and ticks away from your pet, your housing and yourself is by making sure that you do not put out a WELCOME sign. Keep your pet and their environment clean and well groomed. Pest proof your dwelling. Use common sense when taking your pet outside or away from home. Like poor relatives, it’s much easier to keep these pests out then to make them leave once they have found a nice place to stay.

Read more about Dog Care and health tips at http://doggiestyle.billknell.com

Adopt a puppy at http://www.AzToyDogs.com or http://www.ArizonaPups.com

Pug Care and Breed Information

Wednesday, December 13th, 2006

Pug dogs are perky, small dogs that have a short, sleek coat and cute inquisitive face. These loyal dogs are extremely smart and sensitive to commands. They are sturdy and rugged, love to play and are fantastic with kids. They are not yippy like some small dogs tend to be and are great for a small house or apartment. They typically are outgoing and sociable with humans as well as other animals. They do need attention, like any other pet, and will reward you with their loyal companionship.

History

Pug dogs are an Ancient Asian breed. In the sixteenth century Pugs were all the rage in European high society and a Pug is rumored to have saved the life of William, Prince of Orange when the dog barking gave them notice of the Spanish invasion. Many pugs were found in Chinese Imperial palace in the mid 1800’s. The AKC recognized pugs in 1885.

Breed Standards

Pug dogs should be 12 to 14 inches tall for males and 10 to 12 inches for females. They grow a short coat in black, fawn, apricot or silver. These dogs are stocky with a round eyed face, prominent eyes and curly tails. Pugs should weigh in between 13 to 20 pounds.

Medical Concerns

Pugs often have respiratory and skin related problems. Their “button” ears which fold overcan create a friendly environment for mites - therefore their ears should be checked frequently. These little dogs have flat faces with protruding eyes which might make them prone to ulcers on the cornea. Pugs are also prone to colds and should avoid harsh weather- either very cold or very hot.

Grooming and Care

Bathing pugs is recommended but care should be take to be sure you dry them completely after bathing as they can catch cold easily. Care must be taken with Pugs to insure their ears do not harbor pests and the folds of skin on their faces should be cleaned. Pug dogs are rather easy to care for and groom because of their short hair.

Pugs make loving and loyal companions but like most toy breed dogs do take extra care and attention. Before you adopt a pug, you need to make sure that you can provide him with a proper home. Pugs should not be kept outdoors for any length of time so you will need to provide suitable housing inside the home. Also, make sure you have the time to devote to your dog as he does require your attention.

Free Dog Training Tips: Easy Steps to You Becoming Leader of the Pack

Tuesday, December 12th, 2006

[This article is the second in a 3-part series about changing dog behavior using positive dog training methods.]

Be a leader, a dog will follow.

From the last article, remember King and his dominant dog behavior? King was the leader of his pack — Mom, Dad, 2 kids. King set the rules in the house and didn’t hesitate to enforce them, with growling, posturing, biting and other scary dog behaviors.

In that article, I introduced 3 simple dog training steps to help you begin to take the leadership role back from your dominant and furry leader-of-the-pack.

Let’s look at another family, where Mom is the leader and Queenie is at the bottom of the pack hierarchy (where dogs should be) and her obedient dog behavior was praised and applauded by the whole family.

One day, Billy brought a dog home. The family decided to take her in and make her part of the family. They named her Queenie. Queenie was a terrier mix, feisty and pushy, with an inquisitive mind. Mom Jackie quickly began helping Queenie fit in with the family with positive dog training techniques. She taught Queenie where her sleeping places/beds were, how to make requests with a polite sit, how to communicate in a positive way, how good manners result in good things. Jackie patiently reinforced each good dog behavior until Queenie got it, and then she would review and reward to keep the good behaviors in place. Queenie quickly became a wonderful member of the family. Yes, she pushed and sought out trouble wherever she could, but Jackie was there to help redirect her and teach her new ways of using her curiosity in fun games and activities with her family. There was no concern about biting or bad dog behavior. Queenie and the rest of her pack were calm and happy.

If you want your household to be more like Queenie’s, here are a few more simple dog training suggestions to help you take back your leadership position and create an orderly and calm household. (Review article #1 for the first set of suggestions).

1. First, get their attention!

Begin all communication with your dog’s name first. “Blah, blah, blah Benji” gets their attention at Benji. “Benji! Come!” sets Benji up for success.

2. Leader first!

You, the leader, always go first through doorways, gateways, car doors, etc. The leader goes first and the dog follows. Praise, praise, praise for honoring the leader.

3. Be kind!

This is so, so important. Use a gentle voice for most things. When you need to use a more stern approach, that’s fine. Just remember, your dog is looking to you for direction and guidance. Give it calmly and lovingly and you will see the difference. Your dog will love you and want to be with you and please you.

4. Let’s play! — on MY terms.

Games and toys are great fun for dogs — and you. Begin and end games as a leader does. YOU are in control, not Skipper. End the game before he gets bored and leaves. Keep him wanting more.

5. Let’s EAT!

Being a leader means eating first at mealtime. If you typically eat at about the same time your dog eats, you eat first and then feed your dog. (This suggestions points to another strong recommendation – no running buffet!)

Don’t let Fifi run your household. No matter how large or small the dog, or how cute and cuddly, if you do not step into the leadership role, your dog will. Take leadership of your pack back and begin to change that bad dog behavior. You CAN have Queenie in your household. Just start putting these dog training suggestions in place and you’ll notice the difference right away.

Be the leader–your dog will love you for it and work hard to please you!