Archive for November, 2006

Keeping Dogs off Furniture: What are Your Doggy Rules?

Thursday, November 30th, 2006

In general, you need to decide what kind of house you want to live in and what doggy rules are the most important ones. For example, if your dog seems temperamental around young children, you will want to focus on this first before worrying about the furniture. It’s often a good idea to have “no go” zones for your dog too. This not only gives you a place where you can put your valuable or vulnerable stuff, but also reminds the dog that this is your territory, first and foremost.

You also have to realize that the second you walk out that door, they may go over to your leather couch, lie on it all day, and hop off just as you get home. Smart ones will even vacuum the dog hair off. You’ll never know they were there. Unless these areas are restricted, your dog will naturally want to recline in luxury. You would too, which is why you bought the leather couch. If it’s not convenient to block access to an entire room, it might be possible to obstruct the item of furniture itself. You might put a few folding chairs on top of it when you’re gone, anything that makes the item undesirable (tacks are not an option).

Of course, there are simple ways to train your dog to jump up on furniture, jump off of furniture, or avoid your furniture altogether. They will obviously want to hop up on the soft, warm spot, so if they’re allowed to, make them Wait, Sit, and then “Up” while patting the cushion will do the trick of letting them know they need to wait for an invitation. “Off” with a quick snap of the fingers or a clap will do the opposite, but you may need to physically encourage this response at first. If you do, taking them by the collar and pulling is the common way but it’s not the best, and they can easily resist.

Instead, try sliding your hand behind them, at their lower back or rear end, so in effect you create a wedge that lifts them slightly off their seat and gradually pushes them toward the floor. All the while, repeat the “Off” or “Down” command. This not only sends the message but makes their soft and comfortable seat uncomfortable, and they’ll want to bail out.

The same will do the trick for a dog who is not allowed on furniture. Remember not to yell or severely push or pull your dog for sitting in a comfortable place. They will be much more willing to respect your wishes if you don’t. As always, the key is in repetition. It won’t take too long before they realize it’s not worth the effort.

Finally, make sure they have a decent option (which a hardwood floor in winter is not). No shame having a day bed for your dog out in the lounge. Even though they no longer have to sleep all day to save up enough energy for the big hunt, as their ancestors did, most are still quite happy to keep doing just that.

How to Control Dog Barking - Some Tips

Wednesday, November 29th, 2006

Dog barking can be a major problem, especially if it’s YOUR dog! If there is anything neighbors hate, it’s loud noise coming from your house or garden - not everything is music to one’s ears. And dogs barking seemingly without good reason is exceptionally annoying.

Dog barking can be controlled through a number of ways, but as with all forms of dog training, positive reinforcement helps more than hitting your dog or just shouting at him to quiet down. You can try to restrain your dog from barking by using a muzzle, but this won’t stop him from whining and in the end, you haven’t resolved the noise problem. Sometimes dogs bark for no visible reason, but it’s only because they’re lonely or restless.

One of the lesser known ways of stopping a dog from barking is by countering noise with noise. How to do this? Put a few coins or pebbles inside a small empty can, and whenever your dog starts barking, take the can in hand and shake it. The noise will startle the dog and make him stop barking. He might start up again in a bit, but just shake the can again; sooner or later your dog will understand what the noise means, and be conditioned to respect it.

If you’re keeping a puppy and the poor little thing can’t stop barking, take him aside and hold his jaws shut. While you’re holding the jaws closed, say “No!” firmly. Release the muzzle once the puppy has calmed down… but if he starts barking again, repeat what you did. Sooner or later he’ll get the hint, or will at least be too exhausted to continue barking, then go back to sleep. After a few days of this, your puppy will be sure to understand what “No!” means when he barks.

Special collars are another way to train your pets into behaving - but try to avoid shock collars, except in very extreme cases. Tone or vibration collars won’t harm your dog, but ought to work as well. Vibration collars may be smarter, especially if you’re keeping more than one dog, since it’s quieter. Moreover, tone collars may emit sounds similar to cell phones or other digital devices, and they might end up confusing your dog more than helping him.

Stopping dog barking doesn’t have to be a tricky task… however, it is important to remain humane and considerate of your dog, at all costs.

Why The World Needs Pets

Tuesday, November 28th, 2006

They won’t hold a grudge. They won’t leave you for someone else. They know how to show their affection. They even know your feelings better than you do. Who are “they”? Well “they” go by many names, but most of the world just calls them “Pets”. Pets are wondrous creatures whose powers go beyond that of spiritual or magical. Perhaps that power is what the world needs more of.

Recently while being interviewed by a local newspaper reporter I was asked the question, “Why do you think that pets have become so popular in recent years?” I thought for a moment and then answered. “We are a nation at war, a nation still recovering from the after effects of September 11th, a nation rebuilding in the wake of a devastating hurricane in the South, all while living in a media spoon fed world with terror attacks in every news break.” I then went on to explain the key thing that separates us from our pets. If I were to go to a human friend for emotional support, I could only expect so much. You see, they could be affected by the same negative worldly stress that depresses me. However, my pet remains unaffected. This newspaper reporter agreed with my statement and we spent several minutes talking about the idea of “unconditional love”.

Unconditional love is a phrase that I have heard people from all walks of life relate totally to pets. I find it amazing that so many people with different backgrounds, cultures, and languages can come to this same agreement. When we are at our lowest of lows our pet will still be there. Pets fill the void in our lives.

Another incredible aspect of pets is in the case of loved ones away from home. While loved ones may be over seas fighting to preserve freedom, pets are fighting battles here on the emotional frontlines in our homes. Our pets are armed with the weapons of mass affection. A wet nose, a wagging tail, a friendly purr, and soft snuggly fur remain a strong hold of the pet arsenal. In a few short moments a pet can bring us from a face full of tears to a face full of cheers.

They always aim to please expecting nothing in return. I have never heard of a dog not loving his master because his master forgot say “I love you”, or a cat ignoring her caretaker because they got home late from work. Wait, I am talking about cats so actual results of the previous statement may vary. My point is that we could learn a tremendous amount about humility and humanity from our pets. Humans using the powers gained by observing our pets could one day actually bring about world peace. In the mean time we take it one heart at a time.

The next time you find yourself alone, hurt, sad, or frightened, just find your furry friend, open up your heart, and let the power heal you.

Efficient Care Requirements For Aquarium Fish

Monday, November 27th, 2006

You need not to purchase the most expensive kinds of fish just to set up the best aquarium. This can be luxurious already. What you need to know is the proper way of maintaining your aquarium to make it pleasing to the eyes at all times.

Besides all other aquarium supplies, the fish is the most important. It cannot be called an aquarium without the species that will swim into it. This can come in varying types depending on the aquarium you put up.

Aquarium fish can be purchased in extraordinary color patterns. It comes in red, white, green, purple and even blue. In most cases, the male fish has brighter color and longer fins than the female fish. Typically, the more vibrant is the better because it can add appeal inside the aquarium.

There is a specific lifespan for the fish. However, it can be changed through your maintenance. There are times that fish has longer lifespan but due to your negligence, it can be shorten to months instead of years. This will just be a waste of money so better to take note of this factor.

Below are some reminders for proficient care of your aquarium fish:

1. Have regular check for the unnecessary things that may fall into the aquarium.

Cleanliness is very essential for your maintenance. This will not concern the pleasing appeal of the aquarium alone but most particularly the health of the species residing in the habitat. You can use filtration supply on this matter. Cleaning habit can be done weekly or you can do it gradually if you see some falling food remains at the top of the aquarium.

2. Beware from buying aggressive species.

Peaceful types of fish are more advisable because aggressive specie can affect the entire habitat. One can kill the other. Prevent this scenario to happen because you can probably end up with your aquarium to nothing.

3. Do not overfeed the aquarium fish.

Some fish are only required to be fed once a day although others are for twice. Overfeeding is not helpful nor will it make your fish grow larger instantly. Many cases have shown that it can cause death to your fish.

4. When changing the water, add product that will remove chlorine in the water.

Chlorine can be toxicant for your fish. You can purchase products from pet stores in order to eliminate the amount of chlorine in the water.

If you care for your fish, then better follow the advice that will cater your aquarium fish needs.

Tips and Tricks Caring for Adult Size Ferrets

Sunday, November 26th, 2006

Through the lifecycle of ferrets, they are born quite small, and grow quite quickly until they are fully grown adult size ferrets. When they are at this size they are almost the length of two male hands, and they are quite long and slender with short limbs, which makes them quite humorous to look at.

An adult size ferret eats quite a considerable amount of food during the course of a day, and they enjoy a wide variety of meats, fruits and vegetables and can quite comfortably live off most cat foods. They are very active when they are awake, but they do sleep about 18 hours of the day when they are fully grown, younger ferrets sleep for a bit less.

Adult size ferrets are very friendly and still just as curious as when they were pups. Their uncontrollable curiosity does cause them to nip on some occasions, but if this habit is controlled before they are adult size ferrets it shouldn’t happen often, and if it does, they will most likely do it in a playful fashion that wont be painful at all.

If this common habit with ferrets isn’t terminated when they are young, an adult size ferret can give quite a nasty bite with their strong carnivorous jaws. This is why it is a must to properly train your ferret while still young.

Full adult size ferrets are not usually the ones that most ferret lovers are looking for when in the market for a ferret. Commonly people buy ferrets when they are very young, usually only around a month or two old, because this is when they are cutest and most playful. However an adult size ferret can be a more intelligent pet for some, and this is true for several reasons. Firstly, you know what you are getting when you purchase it. With fully grown ferrets you don’t have to guess what they will look like when they are older, and you can also see what sort of personality they have and if that is what you are looking for.

Another popular reason is that it’s easier to buy adult size ferrets and be able to tell if they are at a high enough standard to go in ferret competitions these are a lot like dog or cat competitions. One of the other common reasons for leaving purchase of a ferret till they are more mature, is that you don’t have to go through all the training which is sometimes a tough and annoying process that many owners do not wish to go through.

So from this information, you should be able to better decide if it is more sensible for you to buy a ferret as a youngster, or go for an adult size ferret.

Does Your Dog Bite? How to Protect Your Dog and Yourself from Liability

Saturday, November 25th, 2006

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Foster and Rescue, claim that dogs bite more than 4.7 million people every year in the United States.

The blame could be the dog’s, the owner’s, or the victim’s. But the one who invariably pays, is the owner. The owner of the dog becomes responsible for paying for the medical bills, time lost from work as well as pain and suffering. The one who suffers most, is the dog that is abandoned in a shelter or disposed of.

Dog owners should assume more than their share of the responsibility for protecting people and other animals from their dogs, and also assume the responsibility to protect their dogs from people. Kids will run up to a dog screaming in delight and frighten the dog. A dog in his excitement to greet someone may jump up and scratch him or her. A passer-by may approach a dog aggressively or provoke him. Neighborhood kids may let the dogs out just to have some fun.

There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This important and routine procedure will reduce your dog’s desire to roam and fight with other dogs, making safe confinement an easier task. Spayed or neutered dogs are much less likely to bite.

• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.

• Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an excellent way to socialize him and to learn proper training techniques. Training your dog is a family matter. Every member of your household should learn the training techniques and participate in your dog’s education. Never send your dog away to be trained; only you can teach your dog how to behave in your home. Note that training classes are a great investment even for experienced dog caregivers.

• Be alert with your dog around children. Rambunctious play may startle your dog, and he may react by snapping or biting. Neighborhood children may be attracted to your dog, so make sure you have a child-proof lock on your gate and there is no way for little hands to get through the fence.

• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Never teach your dog to chase after or attack others, even in fun. Your dog can’t always understand the difference between play and real-life situations. Set appropriate limits for your dog’s behavior.

Don’t wait for an accident.

The first time he exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.

• Be a responsible dog owner. License your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone’s safety, don’t allow your dog to roam alone. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied on a chain often become dangerous. Dogs who are well socialized and supervised are much less likely to bite.

• Stay on the safe side. If you don’t know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

I thought you said your dog doesn’t bite? “That’s not my dog” … says Peter Sellers.

Seriously, if your dog bites someone, act responsibly; take these steps to mitigate the harm:

• Confine your dog immediately and check on the victim’s condition. If necessary, seek medical help.

• Provide the victim with important information, such as the date of your dog’s last rabies vaccination.

• You should cooperate fully with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian’s hospital. Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.

• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services.

If you have to let your dog go, don’t drop him off at a shelter, where he will only be given a few days to live. Take the time to find him a new family. To do this there is a support and training network called MuttShack, at http://www.Muttshack.org, who will teach you how to re-home your pet.

• If your dog’s dangerous behavior cannot be controlled, and you have to make the painful decision to give him up, do not give him to someone else without carefully evaluating that person’s ability to protect your dog and prevent him from biting. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else.

• Never give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. “Mean” dogs are often forced to live miserable, isolated lives, and become even more likely to attack someone in the future. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. Be safe, be responsible and most importantly, teach your dog to be a good canine citizen.

• Your dog lives to make you happy. If he understands what you need from him, he will make you proud.

Wolf Pack Territorial Fight

Friday, November 24th, 2006

We have been taking glimpses into wild wolf society to help us understand dog instinctive behavior (both good and bad) that we observe in our pets. We find fascinating organization and rigid structure in wild wolf society, with swift, consistent, fair discipline and clearly drawn lines of leadership, support, and boundaries. The importance of coordinated participation from every wolf pack rank in the hunt, territorial fights, and really all other times, help us to understand the roles of dogs with different personalities, how they seek to interact with us and with other animals, and the kind of leadership and boundaries that your domestic dog expects from you — without which he is miserable!

A wolf’s sense of smell is at least 20 times stronger than ours (and so is that of your domestic dog). A wild wolf’s hearing is more than 40 times better. So the scent of a wolf pack that is trespassing is picked up by the pack that owns the land even if they are hours away from the trespassers. The wind carries scents and sounds.

Territorial fights are rare among rival wolf packs. Nine times out of ten, the trespassing wolf pack flees when the wild wolf pack who owns that land shows up. Even if the owning pack consists of only three wild wolves and the rival wolf pack consists of nine, the trespassers will still run. The landowner is the winner.

If the trespassers refuse to leave, then the male alpha leaders will begin a fight. The wolf pack members on both sides will stare as they look on to see who will win. (Mares do the same thing when stallions fight.)

The two alpha leaders rarely decide to draw blood on one another. It is more so a question of who raises his head the highest, or the first one to be pinned down on his back has lost.

Sometimes during the fight, in a clever ploy, a wild wolf on the side of the defending wolf pack will cross over to the other pack and steal a couple of adolescents. The leader of the trespassers will look at the theft, and thus lose the fight because of the distractions. The victor alpha leader will not allow the adolescents to return. They will become part of his wolf pack.

After a fight, the victors remark their borders. They completely drench the borders with such potent scent that it would make human eyes water. They groom and lick every bit of the new members to remove the scent of the old wolf pack, and then they rub their own scent on them.

Contrary to popular belief, much communication between rival wolf packs is simply that — communication — and not a challenge or threat. The alpha leaders constantly howl back and forth to each other about such things as how that year has been for them, if the pack is well or if they have had hard times, their victories, how much stronger the pack has grown, and such.

Wild wolves also howl friendly greetings to their relatives. For example, an adolescent female may cross over to a rival wolf pack and become a part of it, never to return to her birth pack. Still, those in her birth wolf pack will howl news and salutations to her. Relatives can cross territorial borders for a visit if first given an invitation; without invitation, though, the visitor would be fought for breaching the border. Her own pack would attack her, too, because that is against wolf law.

Rival wolf packs always respect each other, and their respective alpha leaders honor the position of the other as the leader of the pack. They acknowledge the achievements and activities of the other wolf pack.

Sometimes a wolf pack is more led by its female alpha than a male alpha leader. There is no sexist attitude in the world of animals. She will scratch the ground and lift her leg to remind the trespassers of the proper border. Only the alpha pair lifts legs to mark. All of the other members (male or female) squat. If a territorial dispute should erupt when one of the wolf packs is female led, the dispute might be settled by a voice contest (howling) instead of an actual battle in which the pregnant leader could not participate.

So as you see, territorial fights are not all that common among wild wolf packs, and when they do occur, bloodshed is rare because things are normally worked out another way. Wild wolf society is replete with rules that apply to all wolf packs and which lend stability to their members.

How To Choose A Dog For An Elderly Person

Thursday, November 23rd, 2006

Dogs have been making great companions for centuries now. They are loved by all ages. Everyone has their own preference as to what dog best suits their lifestyle. When choosing a dog, this is an important aspect to consider, especially for the elderly. Having a four legged friend can be comforting and can bring much joy to an elderly person. Studies have proven that having a dog around, improves the overall wellbeing of seniors. They can have someone to share their love with. Even nursing homes have grabbed onto the idea of having animals visiting or even living in the same venue.

What are the best picks for the elderly though? The two most important areas to consider are the size and temperament of the canine. Smaller dogs tend to be less maintenance and easier to handle than larger ones. Smaller dogs are also beneficial for the elderly because they make great lap dogs. Below are some top choices of breeds for seniors.

Schnauzer - These dogs enjoy being around people. They crave the companionship given by humans. There are two sizes: the miniature and standard size. Either one will do. Schnauzers can be protective of its family and they have a desire to please. Maintenance of the dog consists of exercising daily. A brief walk would be sufficient. Also consistent grooming is required.

Pug - These dogs are good picks because of their size. They are small dogs, and yet they have big hearts. They are generally very playful dogs. Outgoing by nature, they thrive off of attention and affection from its owners. Even though they crave a lot of attention, they do not just take; they give a lot out too. These dogs are best fitted for someone who has plenty of time on their hands. They are not always high energized. They do have down time in which they like to snuggle up on a warm lap.

Cocker Spaniel - The cocker is a rather popular pick among dog lovers. They are not high strung or outgoing by nature. Because of their patience and docile personality, they make great picks for seniors. They do not need a lot of exercise either. Just a brief walk will do. They are loyal to their owners. Because of their curly hair, regular grooming is a good idea.

Chihuahua - These dogs may be tiny, but they have a loud bark. They tend to take to one owner rather than several family members. For seniors living alone, they are great for warning of people approaching. Despite their size, they are very protective of their owners. They generally weigh less than 5 lbs. and are 6-9 inches in height.

Shih tzu - These dogs live for human companionship. They are friendly and gentle dogs. This breed is very alert to what is going on around him.

Yorkshire Terrier - This dog makes another great lap dog. He enjoys quietness by lounging around. Do not be fooled by his lounging, he does have quite a bit of vigor.

Scottish Terrier - By the name, it is obvious that Scotties derived from Scotland. They are loyal to their family. They are a working dog that weighs between 15-20 lbs. Their stature reflects their intelligence. They can be protective as well.

Toy Poodle - This dog loves to be doted over and enjoys the company of people over other dogs. Poodles love attention and do not mind being treated like a king. If a senior is looking for a companion to dot over, this is the pick for them.

Pomeranian - This dog originated in Pomerania, Germany. It has been compared to a little fuzzy bear. Pomeranians tend to be perky and can bring a smile to any face. They make great companions.

Boston Terrier - Boston Terriers are considered to be American breed dogs. They are small in size and because of their protective nature, seniors will feel secure having one of these around. Despite their protective instinct, they are also friendly and mellow.

These are just a few breeds that an elderly person might want hanging around. Smaller dogs with mild temperaments toward their owners tend to be preferred picks. Keep in mind, there is always an exception to any breed. It is best to talk to others who are familiar with a particular breed. It is also best to know the restrictions of the senior before choosing the right dog.

What To Do In Case You Loose Your Pet

Wednesday, November 22nd, 2006

According to the most recent Synovate pet survey (Sept. 2005), conducted in nine markets across the globe, the UK and the US were shown to be the two absolute leaders in pet ownership. But the world-wide annual statistics on missing pets are shocking. Over 10 million pets go missing every year and millions never make it back home. This short rescue guide was compiled in order to minimize the chances of you ever having to file a missing pet report and to provide to all US pet-lovers a comprehensive list of the things one should know and do before and after his/her independent companion decides to migrate and explore the unknown. Just read carefully the tips that follow keeping in mind that you should not get discouraged or panic if your pet disappears. By following our advice and keeping yourself organized and prepared at all times, the chances are that you will be reunited with your lost friend again soon.

Plan ahead: Create an emergency action list and keep it handy in house or car. Check frequently your pet’s neck to ensure that the collar is in place and that its rabies tag and pet license tag are there; apart from pet’s ID your current phone number should appear. If your pet carries a microchip or a tattoo have that number with you all the time (in your wallet). Make sure you have recent reliable photos of your pet. Create a pet file on your PC with pet web directories and have all the local pet authorities’ telephone numbers also in print. Keep an updated map of your area with your emergency pet kit. Frequently check your locks, doors, windows and fence for possible escape passages. Do not trust strangers and never leave your pet unattended outside stores or inside vehicles. Register your pet to the available services of your area; you will save precious time if your pet becomes lost.

Your pet is missing: Check everywhere you can and do it quickly! Ask friends, neighbors and local pet authorities to assist you in your search. Create and distribute flyers including your pet’s pictures and your phone number and never state the exact amount if you decide to offer a reward or your real name and house address. Scan your neighborhood and give a copy of the missing pet’s flyer to everyone you meet, asking them to call you in case they see or hear anything. Have a real live person or if that is impossible a telephone recording machine answering the phone. Check all the clinics of your area frequently and visit the local shelters in person everyday. Befriend the employees and request their assistance. Inform the local veterinarian offices and the police. Provide all the details they need, but leave a few of your pet’s characteristics out. These will later help you identify whether the person claiming to have found your pet has actually your companion in his/her possession. Never visit by yourself someone that called and reported to have your pet. Take a friend with you or arrange to meet in a public place or the police department. Contact the local media and create a publicity fuss. Publicize your pet’s disappearance via the internet and local newspapers. Check the ‘found pet’ section of your local newspapers daily. Most importantly, do not give up hope. Keep looking and good luck!

Your pet is back: Once reunited with your pet, of extreme importance is for you to discover what circumstances allowed it to escape and perform any necessary changes to prevent a similar incident from happening again. Do not forget to call your neighbors, friends, local veterinarian clinics and shelters, to inform them that your pet is back. Of course, always remember to keep a collar and a current identification tag on your pet at all times, even when they are in your house. Your pet’s ID is actually its ticket home.

Echidnas

Tuesday, November 21st, 2006

What has the beak of a bird, the spines of a hedgehog, the gait of a reptile, the pouch of a marsupial, and the lifespan of an elephant? If you answered an echidna, you are correct! Echidnas may not be the most famous creatures on this planet, but fossils dating back to 100 million years ago prove that they’ve been around a long time. Elusive and enigmatic, these “spiny anteaters” have bewildered scientists and wildlife enthusiasts for centuries.

Echidnas make virtually no noise, follow no observable routines, and lack permanent dens, making it almost impossible to track and study them. They also travel great distances; some cover home territories of 250 acres or more! Native to New Guinea and Australia, echidnas weren’t even identified in the western world until 1792, when the first detailed description was published in England. Still, it took hundreds of years of technological advancements before any close study of the echidna was possible.

At first glance, an observer might classify echidnas in the same family with hedgehogs. Australians have nicknamed them “porkies,” after their resemblance to the porcupine. Their likeness to these mammals, however, is only skin deep. While echidnas are probably best known for their spiny backs, these spines are uniquely different from porcupine quills. Although echidnas can move their spines (and they do, especially in mating rituals and when protecting themselves), the spines cannot be easily removed from their backs, like quills are. Echidna spines are extremely strong, and have been known to puncture tires! They are actually modified hairs that have a long root extending into a special layer of muscle.

If echidnas have little in common with hedgehogs and porcupines, they have much in common with their close relative, the platypus. These two species are the only known surviving monotremes in the world. Monotreme, literally translated, means “single opening,” referring to the fact that these mammals have only one opening. Whereas other mammals have three openings, monotremes have one cloaca, which is used in the urinary, defecatory, and reproductive systems. In addition, monotremes are the only mammals who lay eggs, rather than give live birth.

Females produce a single, soft-shelled egg 22 days after mating. Placing the dime-sized egg in her pouch, located on her belly, the female waits until ten days later when the egg hatches and a tiny, embryonic puggle emerges. The mother produces milk, as do all other mammals, but she has no nipples. Instead, the puggle suckles milk from the pores of two milk patches in her pouch. By 45-55 days old the puggle will have begun developing spines, and the mother (understandably) expels it from her pouch. She will have dug a nursery burrow in preparation, and here the puggle will remain for another six months, suckling when its mother returns to the burrow, about every five days.

By the time the young echidna leaves its burrow it will be prepared for the rigors of survival. At approximately the same size and weight of a human newborn, the adult echidna has a narrow, elongated snout and short, strong limbs. Its legs protrude from the sides of its body, rather than underneath, giving the echidna its reptile-like gait. Echidnas have large, backward-pointing claws which they use for digging. The most important equipment for survival is their long, sticky tongues. Echidnas are toothless, and use their tongues to slurp up ants, termites, worms, and insect larvae. Their Latin name Tachyglossus acculeatus means “fast-tongued and spiny.”

Echidnas live relatively peaceful, long lives. They have no native predator, although one species of large monitor lizards eat the spineless puggles. Non-native predators, including feral cats and pigs, dogs, dingoes, and foxes, will attack echidnas. Under attack, the echidna will roll itself into a spiny ball until the danger has passed. Vehicles pose the biggest threat to echidnas, which move slowly and are often seen disposed at the side of the roads. A second threat to echidnas is overheating. Echidnas have no sweat pores, and do not pant. They must therefore maintain a very low body temperature. It was even disputed at one time whether echidnas were even warm-blooded mammals or not, given how low their internal temperature was. Escaping these dangers, echidnas can live fifty years or more.

Scientists have not been able to determine the number of echidnas in existence in the world, and have officially listed them as a protected species. It may take time, but hopefully technology will continue to aid us in the understanding of this primitive, perplexing creature.