Pets

Inspect your dog’s toys often. If there are pieces bit off the toy, discard it. Usually small pieces of a toy or chew will pass through a dog’s system, but they could end up causing an intestinal blockage instead.

Flimsy vinyl or plastic toys or balls with squeakers and bells in them usually don’t hold up. Some shih tzu will just tear at the toy until they get the squeaker out. The squeakers and bells also pose a problem of your shih tzu choking on them if he tries to swallow the objects.

Shih tzu like to carry around stuffed toys in their mouth. Get stuffed toys made especially for dogs. Children’s stuffed toys will usually have noses and eyes that can be easily chewed off.

Kong toys are made of heavy rubber and are very durable, which makes a nice choice for your shih tzu to chew on without worry of him chewing off small pieces of the toy and choking. They can be packed with small dog biscuits or bits of cheese to encourage the dog to play with them. They can keep your shih tzu busy for quite a while as he works to get out the treats.

I do not recommend rawhide for shih tzu at all. Stay away from rawhide with the shih tzu. Avoid commercially made pig ears and calf hooves as well. HealthyPetNet has an excellent product called “Porky Puffs.” Visit my website at Stain Glass Shih Tzu to find a link to the HealthyPetNet website for purchasing these. My shih tzu are just crazy for Porky Puffs. Once you have tried the Porky Puffs and see how your shih tzu love them, you will forget all about any other kind of pig ears, calf hooves or rawhide treats that actually can be dangerous to your shih tzu if those small pieces get hung in their neck or digestive system. You will end up in the emergency vet clinic. Try the Porky Puffs from HealthPetNet, I promise you they are safe, excellent and have that smell dogs just can’t resist.

Nylabones is another excellent product to have for your shih tzu. You can get Nylabone in edible flavors, a huge variety of flavors actually. You can also purchase Nylabones in the plastic form in all kinds of flavors. You really should have Nylabones at all times for your shih tzu. They help during teething periods and times you want to train your shih tzu to chew on something appropriate - a Nylabone is an excellent choice to use during these training sessions.

Never, never give your shih tzu chicken bones or any other type of bone that might splinter.

A very special treat is Marrow Bones. You can buy Marrow Bones from a butcher or in the meat department at your grocery store. They are fairly inexpensive. Select them carefully. Avoid those cut at an angle that have sharp, boney material inside. Choose instead marrow bones that are cut straight across and are circular with soft marrow inside. If you can have your butcher to cut them this way for you, Marrow Bones are always a special treat for your shih tzu. Boil them for about 20 minutes, then cool. Scrape off any sharp gristle on the outside that the dog might otherwise chew and ingest. Give the dog one bone, and freeze the others for later use. Shih tzu love to work at getting out the marrow and this can help to keep them busy, and free of boredom. Once the marrow is gone, fill the bones with peanut butter. Marrow bones also can be filled with dry dog food made into a mush with water, freeze the bones with this filling, then thaw them a bit before giving them to the shih tzu. If the marrow bones get grungy after your shih tzu eats out the treat in the middle, put them in the dishwasher. Toss the bones when they begin to show signs of wear.

Health Issues

Your very first action after officially adopting a new puppy or dog – before you take him or her home – should be to stop by your vet’s office for a thorough examination. If you have other pets at home, you don’t want to inadvertently expose them to a communicable illness. If the vet even suspects something contagious, like parvovirus or distemper, leave the animal there for treatment – don’t take him home yet!

It’s even a good idea in such cases to clean your exposed body parts with a bleach water mix to kill latent viruses and germs before you enter your home. Try to avoid direct contact with any pets. Immediately head to the laundry room and put your clothing in the washer with lots of detergent and hot water. If you ruin something, that’s certainly better than exposing your pets to a disease!

Vaccinations

Your vet will, of course, know which vaccinations are required in your city and state. Most vets will administer inoculations in bundles (known as DHLP-P) to save time and expense. The injection includes vaccinations against distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. Rabies vaccine is given separately and is mandatory in virtually every locale.

If you have other pets at home, vaccinations are absolutely critical for any new dogs you add to the domestic mix. Get them done - and stay on schedule!

Pack Hierarchy Issues

Any time you bring a new pet into your home with existing dogs, there is potential for fights as the hierarchy of the ‘pack’ is thrown into temporary disarray. It’s often impossible to tell whether a new dog will be an alpha or not, especially when it’s a puppy. However, puppies are much easier to condition to a lesser status within your home’s pack, even if their natural tendency is toward dominance. Remember, even two dogs will often be driven to attempt to form a pack with a dominant-subordinate relationship.

Let the dogs work it out, unless open aggression erupts. Then, you might try bringing in a professional trainer or, if possible, separate fighting dogs by partitioning them in certain parts of your home. Caution: never attempt to physically separate fighting dogs with your hands or feet! Instead, spray or pour a copious amount of cold water on them. The cold and wetness will serve to startle them, which usually defuses the situation without you ending up with stitches.

There is, unfortunately, not much you can do to predict which animals will be dominant. Some breeds are more likely to have individuals that will assert themselves in the pack (German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Pit Bulls), but even there, you get a wide range of characteristics. So, plan for any contingency, including returning the new dog or finding a better home if it causes serious disruptions that are not naturally resolved within a few days.

Feeding Routines

If you’ve only had one dog in your home previously, an issue that can be a source of potential problems when you add a new one is feeding time. You don’t have to think about it with just one pet, but when you have two or more animals trying to eat in one space – especially a confined area – watch out! Early on, make sure you remain close by in case a fight breaks out. Even dogs that have always been docile and friendly can quickly turn on companion animals when food is in the mix.

If possible, segregate your pets so they can eat without any contact with the other(s). Not only will this eliminate the potential for aggression, but it may prevent other disasters as well. Dogs that eat in groups tend to gulp without properly chewing their food. This can lead to choking and a condition called ‘bloat’ that can be life threatening.

Don’t Ignore Your First Dog!

When you bring in a new pet, it’s easy to start ignoring your existing dog(s). You’re not a bad person! It’s a natural tendency. However, you should anticipate it and work hard to catch yourself doting on the new dog at the other’s expense. Dogs are very tied in to our feelings and actions. More than most owners ever realize. You will send the wrong “vibe” to your older pets if you change how much time and attention you give them. To keep everyone happy, spend quality time with them all and don’t play favorites – even when the new pet is really ‘new.’

Picture the scene: you go out for a nice day with the family. Everyone has fun and when the day is over you come back, only to find the back gate wasn’t completely latched. You go into your backyard and find your beloved pet, Fido, is gone. What do you do? How do you get your best friend back?

Losing a pet is a scary experience. You don’t know what has happened to your friend, or even where to start looking. It can be a daunting time, but if you keep your head and follow a few simple steps, you’ll be closer to finding your pet.

First off, be sure to search the area your pet was last seen in carefully. Are there any places he can hide? Be sure he isn’t stuck under the house, or in a garden shed. You’d be amazed at the places a dog or cat can hide in a backyard or house. If you do find him hiding, don’t try to pull him out. Get a favorite treat for him, and show it to him. Dangle his favorite toy or your car keys if he loves to go for drives. But let him come to you.

If you can’t find your pet in your house or backyard, then go looking through your neighborhood. Walk, or drive, calling your pet’s name. Ask your neighbors if they’ve seen him. Be sure to tell your mailman about your missing friend too. Mailmen are around many different neighborhoods and might notice your pet running around. If you don’t find your pet at this point, then it’s time to widen the search.

1. Make a poster with a good picture of your pet. Put on it the words LOST PET: with a description of your pet. Be sure to list the size, fur color, breed, sex, and any distinguishing marks your animal might have. Also, be sure to put a phone number on the poster, so if someone finds your pet, they can call you. Make copies and hang them in your neighborhood and at major intersections. Also, take copies to local pet stores and veterinary offices. Most times, they are very willing to hang a lost poster up and they will be on the lookout for a pet that is brought in injured.

2. Go to the local animal shelters and ask to see the pets brought in that day. You will have to go more than once, and probably every other day, to be sure you don’t miss your pet. Some humane shelters only keep stray pets for a few days before either making them available for adoption or euthanizing them. Even if you dog has a collar, it might not still be on the pet when the shelter gets them. Also, be sure to leave them a flier of your pet, just in case.

3. Call road services in your area. They can tell you if they found any animals that had been killed by cars. While a horrible thought, knowing what happened to your pet will bring closure for you and your family.

4. Place an ad in your local paper in the “Lost Pet” section. Be sure to check the “Found Pets” section as well. Be aware that some people don’t know the difference between the breeds. A basset hound might look like a beagle to someone who isn’t familiar with the breed. Answer any ads that might be your pet, but be ready to be disappointed when they aren’t.

5. If you are offering a reward for the return of your pet, don’t say what that reward amount is. There are some dishonest people out there who call the numbers on lost pet signs and claim to have the person’s pet, demanding money to deliver the pet, then never coming up with the animal. Be wary if people calling demand money.

Finally, don’t give up. Keep checking the shelters. Drive your neighborhood each day. Keep trying to find your pet. Remember, there have been cases of pets being gone months and being found. You just have to keep trying.

Some dog owners believe that a dog is a dog, and that his place is on the floor exclusively. Some feel that he is a member of the family, and that he should be allowed up on chairs or sofas if he feels like it. And there are attitudes in between that may dictate permission for him to get up on one “favorite chair.” Generally the split is between country and city, with country dogs being relegated to the floor and city dogs having the run of the place.

If he is going to be strictly a floor dog, then he should never be allowed up on any piece of furniture, right from the start. Being up on the couch with you or solo hold little distinction for him and it will only confuse him later if you deny him the privilege. When he is little, he won’t be able to negotiate the height, so there is no problem with him climbing up.

As he grows and investigates, he will try to climb up just to see what is there. Push him off gently and tell him “no” a few times and he will get the idea. Later he may try to occupy it while you are out of the house. An easy solution to train him is a few light mousetraps covered with a sheet or newspaper set near the back of the cushion. The trap can’t hurt him and the snapping noise will solve the problem.

If you decide that he is going to be a full member of the household with all privileges, the problems are only those of dirt and reactions. As for dirt, he should be trained to wait at the door for a quick cleaning with an old rag after he has been out of doors. By the time he is old enough to climb onto chairs easily he will be old enough to have learned the “sit and stay” and there ends the problem.

As far as reactions go, this is really something between you and your friends. Somewhat fastidious friends who come to visit may find dogs on furniture disagreeable, particularly if the dog has to be shooed off of the chair they are about to sit in. If he is a chair sitter in your house, he may try to be one when he goes visiting with you. So set up a rigid rule for him – okay at home, forbidden elsewhere, and don’t make exceptions and he won’t be likely to be confused.

This beautiful dog, the Boxer. The best companion dog of all time without a doubt. Well, I have had nothing but Boxers all my life, so I have to admit my opinion will be a little partial. I can tell may stories of the joy those boxers have given me through my life. They can always put a smile on your face. I’m not sure if it is the fleshy jowled pug nosed face that I find so wonderful, or there personality, disposition,or more likely it is all of the above. Boxers are so playful in the way they are prepared to play in a second with a piece of rope or run around the grass. Attentive because they have to be with you everywhere you go, because that is where the action will be and they need to be part of it. Affectionate, they crave physical contact and petting. they love climbing into your bed with you at night and are a great heat source on a cold night. Loyal in that they are friendly and personable, but will jump to defend you quickly with a tenacious presence. Boxers are obedient and gentle, they are very tolerant of children and babies. You know how children are with the ear pulling and grabbing. That irritates some dogs. Boxers take all of that with no problem unlike any dog I know. Simply the best family dog imaginable.

where did this breed originate? How did the boxer we know and love today come to be? It was a cross between a couple different dogs, but I wanted to look into its geneaology and see for sure. This is what I came up with.

The name Boxer is commonly thought to originate from the way that a boxer plays. they rear back on its hind legs and comes at you with its paws swinging, sort of like a pugilist. You have to be careful, because they can land a couple arm scraping punches quickly, thus the need for a well trained Boxer. However this explanation is wrong. Actually, the name “Boxer” is taken from an ancestor, the smaller BullenBeisser (Barbanter) that were called “boxel”. The name “Boxer” is a corruption of that name that has passed through time.

The boxer started out as a cross between the German Bullenbeisser and the English Bulldog. The German Bullenbeisser was a large sized hunting dog for hundreds of years. It was commonly used as a hunting dog for large game like deer, bear and wild pigs. Its primary purpose was to track down wounded prey and subdue it until the hunters came.

A common feature of many boxers is the snipped pointed ears. Done these days just for show, but it actually had a practical purpose related to their use as hunting dogs. When tracking and holding wild animals, the dogs would often suffer badly torn ears. cropping their ears was started to avoid this problem.As time passed, dogs of smaller stature became more favorable and the German Bullenbeisser was purposefully bred smaller and smaller. The smaller version of the German Bullenbeisser was then named the Bullenbeisser(Brabanter).

In the late 19th century, the Brabanter was bred again with the English Bulldog. This was the starting point for what would become today’s Boxer. in 1894, the breed was stabilized and exhibited in 1895.

The story of the dogs that took part in the early genealogy is rather interesting. An true tale of breeding and selection.

A gentleman from Munich Germany, George Alt crossed a brindle-colored bitch Brabanter called “Flora” with a local dog of unknown ancestry named “Boxer”. This resulted in a fawn and white pup they named “Lechners Boxer”. When Lechners Boxer matured, “Lechner’s Boxer” was mated with his mother “Flora” and one of the litter was a bitch called “Alt’s Schecken”. “Alt’s Schecken was registered as a Bierboxer or Modern BullBeiser. “Alt’s Schecken” was then bred with a English Bulldog named “Tom” that produced a puppy named “Flocki”, the first boxer entered into the German Stud Book. “Flocki’s” sister, the white “Blanka von Angertor” was then bred with the grandson of “Lechners Boxer”, “Piccolo von Angertor” to create “Meta von der Passage”. It is “Meta Von Der Passage” that would have the biggest impact on the boxer breed. She is the mother of the modern breed of Boxer. “Meta von der Passage” went on to give birth to a line of sires that defined the future of the Boxer to the current day.

The Coton De Tulear is a Bichon type dog which is descended from the small white dogs of Madagascar which were believed to have been brought to the Mediterranean region by a shipwreck in 1665. These small white dogs existed in Europe as early as the 1500s according to written references of the time. Often these were the little dogs which were carried on ships as companions of the passengers and also as a ship’s dog to rid the ship of rats and vermin. These early Bichon type dogs, as they were dispersed around Europe by sailors and travelers, began to be named mostly after the region in which they flourished and each type, though basically from similar origins, developed along lines which were sufficiently different that most of these small white fluffy dogs are now compartmentalized as separate breeds and registered as such by the F.C.I. (the European counterpart of the A.K.C.)

The Coton De Tulear is distinguished by it’s silky long single coat which is quite fine and cotton like in texture. The coat is white although there may be slight biscuit or lemon markings on the ears or feet and rarely one can find specimens which are black and white. The coat length is about three inches and the standards require that it not be scissored but left in a natural state. It is a small dog standing no higher than 10-11 inches at the withers. The head has a well defined stop and the untrimmed hair should be left in a “fall” over the eyes, often covering the eyes completely. The tail is not curled too tightly but should be loosely curled over the back.

The Coton is a breed which is quite friendly and has enjoyed a popularity amongst the upper classes of Madagascar as a status symbol. The small white dogs ran wild in packs on the island. When they became “socialized” they became favorites of the nobility. For many years it was outlawed for a member of the lower classes to own a Coton.

This little dog has a sweet but also playful demeanor and is a gentle and affectionate little dog. He would be considered a “lap dog” even though early in his origins he was also quite useful as a ratter. The Coton does have a distinctive growly “talk” which is unique. He is a good watchdog for setting up an alarm even though he is a small dog. Also this is a highly intelligent dog that is easily trained.

The Coton de Tulear is becoming more popular in the show rings of Europe. It has recently joined the list of dogs registered in Foundation Stock Service of the American Kennel club, this is usually the first step towards eventual registration in the A.K.C.

Camping Etiquette for Dogs

1) Always keep your dog on a leash:

This sounds so trite and as a dog owner you have heard it time and time again. But, it is one of the most common problems. There are a number of issues associated with letting your dog off-leash in a campground. First, they could get lost while running after a rabbit, deer, or coyote. Second, there might be a bigger, dog-aggressive dog tied up in the next campsite that could eat your dog for lunch. Third, you are giving the rest of us a bad rap and the campground might decide to ban dogs. Enough said, I hope.

2) Call ahead:

Even though campground guides may tell you that the campground accepts dogs. Be sure to call ahead, because many of them only accept dogs under 25 pounds or they charge per pet. Look in our guide to camping with dogs here or look in the Travel Life directory here.

3) Clean up after your dog:

We have found that the bags sold for doggie do do are very expensive in pet stores. Instead, we use simple food storage bags from the grocery store. Not the kind with zipper seals, but the plain old gallon size food storage bags with twist ties. These are slightly larger than the pet store bags at less than half the price. The only drawback is that they are clear instead of colored, but you’ll get used to it!

4) Make sure your dogs don’t bark too much:

A lot of dog guides recommend that you stay home if you have a dog that barks too much. This is not fair, every dog should go camping. If you have a dog that barks his head off at the drop of a pin, you probably better spend some time training him. Try to give him treats whenever he stops barking upon command, eventually he will get the picture.

5) Dog aggressive or people aggressive dogs:

Again, everything I have read recommends that you keep these kinds of dogs at home. I disagree. Dog aggression and people aggression are often natural behaviors for dogs. The trick is to keep these dogs under ABSOLUTE control at all times. You must be diligent in this one, or someone or some dog could be seriously injured. Here is what I have learned from my dog that is afraid of strangers and weighs 130 pounds.

a) Get a restraining collar that provides total control of your dog.

b) If you leash them outdoors at the campsite, always be outside with them.

c) Don’t take them for hikes on trails, this is asking for trouble.

d) Find a campground with spacious sites; look in Fodor’s Best Campground Guide at www.fodors.com for the site spaciousness and privacy factor.

e) If you must take them in crowded situations, use a muzzle (but only use a muzzle sparingly).

f) Be vigilant at all times, I have camped full-time for two years now all across the country without incident. However, I am always with my dog and I have him under my complete control (not, always easy with such a large dog).

Following these five simple rules will allow you and your dogs to enjoy camping, while not creating any complaints from other campers. If you do receive a complaint for any reason, try to be bigger than the complainant - act calmly and address the problem. After all, you are going camping to enjoy life!

The Scottish Terrier tends to be a one person or several person dog. They prefer cooler climates and moderate exercise. Daily long walks or a properly fenced in yard will accommodate their exercise needs. They are known to be diggers and they will wander off, given a chance, so be sure she is kept secure. They need to be extensively socialized with other pets and older children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Scottish Terrier is 10 to 11 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 19 to 23 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Scottish Terrier is no exception. Be on the look out for Scottie Cramp, Von Willebrands disease (a problem with blood clotting), skin allergies, Craniomandibular Ossteopathy and bladder and kidney stones. This breed is known to be difficult welpers. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Scottish Terrier has a harsh, wiry coat with a dense, soft undercoat. They need to be professionally groomed several times a year.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Scottish Terrier can live between 12 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Scottish Terrier comes from Scotland where they were used to kill vermin.They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1885.

Some Registries

• Scottish Terrier Club of America
• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

3 to 5 Scottish Terrier puppies

Category

Terrier

Terms To Describe

Small, compact, confident, bold, dignified, powerful, brave, alert, protective, lovable, stubborn

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• Makes a very good watch dog.
• Intelligent dog.
• Sheds very little.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• They love to dig.
• Can be very stubborn.
• Can be a one person dog.
• Can bark excessively.
• Makes a poor guard dog.
• May wander off.

Other Names Known By

Aberdeen Terrier

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

So you’ve brought home your new puppy, it’s time to name your new animal friend but you’re running short on ideas. Choosing a name for your dog can be hard if you aren’t feeling very creative, so here we give you a head start with the basics and some great ideas to help you choose the perfect name for your puppy.

Three Basic Dog Name Guidelines

1. Pick a name your dog can easily recognize. Dogs usually respond better to one or two syllable names. If you do want to go for a dramatic and unusual long name, consider whether you can easily shorten it to something a bit simpler for your dog to understand.

2. Avoid dog names that sound like the standard commands of No, Stay, Sit, Come, Down or Fetch. For example “Joe” is probably too close to “No”. It can be difficult for dogs to tell the difference between similar sounding words.

3. Choose a name that’s both easy to call out and one that you are happy calling out. Remember, you will be calling your dog’s name out in public places at times and shouting out “Parsnip“ in the local park, may leave you feeling a little embarrassed! You also want a name that will work well when you are straining your voice to call your pet as he disappears into the sunset chasing after a rabbit!

Looking For Dog Name Inspiration

Start with the obvious. Take a long hard look at your new little friend he may be telling you his name without you knowing. Look at his appearance, behavior, personality, and disposition. Names like Spot or Red may come to mind. How about Bandit for a dog who steals things or Rebel for a stubborn dog?

Then look elsewhere for inspiration. You can name your dog after another famous dog, for example Pluto, Pongo, Lassie or Digby. What about your favourite sports, movie, music or comic strip star?

How about choosing a dog name after a member of your family or friend of a figure from history like Napoleon, Alexander the Great or Rasputin? Take a look at your environment or think about your favourite place they will give you more ideas.

Remember, the dog name you choose for your puppy says as much about you as it does about your pet. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with him. But other people may judge your dog’s character by reference to its name and might therefore react negatively or fearfully to a ‘dominating’ name when meeting it. It is a good idea to use a dog name that conveys the image you want your pet to have.

Also, pick a name that will grow with the pet. For example “Tiny” may be less appropriate for a full-grown dog.

Whichever method you choose, have a good time doing it and choose a name that you will want to keep.

Teaching Your Puppy Its Name

Pick a dog name that pleases you and stick to it. It can be confusing for your puppy if you keep changing your mind. Your dog will learn his or her new name quickly if you use it often. When you call your pet, use his name. Do not say “here puppy”. Calling your pet by his name will help him to become familiar with it and with your voice as well.

If choosing a long name keep in mind the shortened version. A long name will inevitably be shortened, but it may ruin the effect that you were originally looking for.

Above all have fun and choose a name you really like. Your puppy will undoubtedly become your best friend and only you can find just the right name.

I have difficulty sleeping because my dog shares my bed. When I say “shares,” I mean he assigns me a tiny space on the edge where I must hang on with my toenails to keep from falling out. Louie stretches out sideways in the middle of the bed and hogs the pillow, growling in his sleep if I try to claim a corner of it for myself.

The worst part about sleeping with Louie is the racket his stomach makes. Like the ghost of Jacob Marley, it haunts my dreams. The gurgles, growls, and roars are loud enough to break the smell barrier. Sometimes I wake up to so much noise I think I’m in the middle of Mardi Gras.

The other night, when I finally managed to go to sleep, I had a dream that started out great. I was happily driving my hot pink Cadillac convertible to a rubber stampers’ convention. Out of nowhere came another car and bam! I ran right into it. A policeman arrived on the scene within seconds — because he was driving the car I hit. Boy, was I glad to wake up from THAT dream!

Many of my dreams end badly. That’s because Louie not only torments me during waking hours; but he crashes my dreams and ruins those too. I hate it when he has seizures, asthma attacks, and digestive disturbances in the middle of the night. It’s hard to sleep with someone jerking, hacking, and wheezing in your ear. Especially when that someone’s breath smells like an anchovy cannery. Somehow, what’s going on in my conscious world gets mixed up with my unconscious thoughts and incorporated into my dream.

It’s REALLY annoying when this happens during the best part of a Mel Gibson dream! The scenario goes something like this:

Mel: “I beg of you. You must be my leading lady. * Cough. * No one else can take your place.”

Me: “Oh, Mel. You’re making me blush!”

Mel: * Wheeze* “I must have you. * Snort* If you refuse, I’ll go on a hunger strike. . . . HAAAAACK!”

Me: “What was that Mel? I didn’t catch that last part.”

Mel: “Hornnnk! Gag. Honnnkkk!”

Me: “Mel, you smell like a pig farmer’s boots – hey! Don’t lick my face,

Mel. Wait, what are you doing? Not on my pillow!”

Mel: “ BLAAAAAAGH! CAAAHAAACK!”

Then I usually awake in time to catch Louie hacking up cricket legs, bits of candy wrapper, or the half-digested remains of a paper plate.

I hate having my sleep disrupted, because the ONLY hope I have of meeting Mel Gibson is in my dreams. I do a lot of other impossible things in my dreams too, like flying without an airplane, and walking around in the mall wearing nothing but my underwear. Now how come Louie doesn’t interrupt THOSE dreams?