Pets

The American Eskimo is a member of the family of Spitz dogs. The Spitz type breeds can trace their history back to the “Peat Dogs” of the New Stone Age. All of them possess double coats that stand away from the body, prick ears and a tail that curls tightly and is usually carried over the back. Among the most common Spitz breeds represented today are the Keeshond, the Chow Chow, the Finnish Spitz, the Shiba Inu and the Akita and several others, besides the American Eskimo. The American Eskimo has the shape of the typical Spitz type of dog, with short erect ears, a bushy stand off coat all over the body and a brushy tail curling over the back. In 1985 The American Eskimo was first registered in the American Kennel club in the non sporting group. It is considered that perhaps the name came from the numbers of these small Spitz-type dogs that were bred by the American Eskimos and were used as sledding dogs. The dogs that were bred by the Eskimos however were of a larger size and stockier. The dogs the Eskimos used were most likely descended from the German Spitz, crossed with the Keeshond and the White Pomeranian. After the admittance into the American Kennel Club the breed officially became known as the American Eskimo, with the nickname of Eskie.

The Eskie comes in three sizes, toy, measuring 9-12 inches, miniature, measuring over 12 and up to 15 inches and the standard, measuring over 15 and up to 19 inches. The coat is always white, biscuit, or cream, with black being the preferred color of the rims of the eyes, nose and lips. The coat is typically easy care, requiring only a thorough brushing once a week or so. The little dog is well built and balanced, slightly longer than it is tall, with a large ruff around the neck. This little dog loves to go walking and its beauty always attracts admirers.

The American Eskimo is an exceptionally healthy dog, having no particular genetic diseases. There may be some tearing of the eye, which needs to be watched, but other than that there seem to be no outstanding health issues. Even with its heavy coat it is considered an “indoor” dog and except for shedding it makes a fine pet. The American Eskimo is most popularly used these days as a companion dog for the house, typically it is a good watchdog that will bark a warning but will not show aggression. It is alert and watchful, affectionate and friendly. It is a playful yet mellow pet, its disposition being quite friendly and its size being non threatening for children or the elderly. The American Eskimo is a smart dog and does well in Obedience trials and in agility. He possesses an easy attitude, generally very trainable and non aggressive to other dogs as well as people.

Deciding when and how to bathe your dog is often difficult. This is because your dogs bathing frequency depends on a list of factors: your dogs breed, how much time they spend outdoors, your dog’s age, as well as any existing medical conditions, just to name a few.

Simply, when and how you bathe your dog will change throughout the year as well as throughout the dog’s life. Below is a list of reasons that your dog may need a bath, as well as some pointers to help you along the way:

1. Your dog encountered something and smells.

This is the #1 reason that your dog is bathed. If your pal is like ours and has a way of finding something smelly to roll in, then he’ll need a bath right away. Use a good shampoo like Bio Groom ® and don’t be afraid to wash him twice if needed.

2. Your dog has a “doggy smell”.

Odor on your dogs coat can often be traced to a problem with their ears, mouth, feet, or anal glands. An odor coming from the skin is often a sign of disease, such as a yeast infection. Any dog with more than a “doggy smell” should be checked by your veterinarian. For dogs with a simple doggy odor, choose a general shampoo, such as Tomlyn Shampoos.

3. Your dog has dandruff.

Dandruff can be caused by dry, irritated, or oily skin, however all of these conditions can be helped by selecting an appropriate shampoo as well as good bathing habits. Be sure to check with your veterinarian or groomer to determine the cause of your dog’s skin condition. For general treatment try using Kelco Filthy Animal Shampoo.

4. Your dog has allergies.

Bathing your pooch with itchy skin from allergies can be soothing and also help reduce itching. In many cases, a soothing oatmeal shampoo or a gentle hypo-allergenic can be used.

5. Your dog has fleas, mites, or lice.

Shampooing is one of the best ways to rid your dog of external parasites. Work with your veterinarian to get the appropriate diagnosis, as well as treatment options. You could try Bio-Grooms Flea & Tick Shampoo. All Bio-Groom products are tearless, and with the formulas Protein and Lanolin it’s safe to use on most dogs when you fear they may be infested. Once you determine shampoo you will need - for instance, if your dog always gets an unpleasant “doggy smell” a few weeks after bathing - then choose an appropriate shampoo and have it on hand for when you need it.

Additional tips to remember when bathing your dog…

• Always use a shampoo formulated for dogs. Human shampoos are often harsher than pet shampoos, which can do more damage than good if you use human shampoo on pets.

• Start bathing when a dog is young so bath time will be easier throughout the life of your dog.

• Regular brushing is one of the best ways to take care of your dog’s skin and coat. Consult your veterinarian or breeder to determine the appropriate grooming cycle for your dog. Remember brushing and removing mats should always be done before bathing.

• Fatty acid supplements used in addition to your pet’s good diet will help maintain a healthy coat and skin. For the best coats, we recommend daily brushing, regular baths, and supplementation with a fatty acid supplement like Linatone Plus for Dogs or Lipiderm Tablets.

Every dog needs to be bathed. With the advice of your veterinarian or groomer and these helpful hints, you can be sure that your dog looks, feels, and most importantly smells great. Something your whole family will appreciate!

Have you ever been riding your bicycle around the block when a dog comes running out of its yard and starts chasing you down the street? Maybe you are

walking down the street when you spot a rather large dog a few houses away.

The dog appears to be unattended and you do not know if it is friendly. Has this ever happened to you? Your walking your small dog (on a leash) down the street when suddenly your confronted by a strange, free roaming dog and it is growling and in the attack position.

What do you do? What can you do?

In the first scenario, described above, where the bicyclist is being chased by a dog, you would probably start peddling faster while simultaneously kicking out at the dog in an attempt to both outrun the dog and prevent it from biting you.

The second scenario has you walking down the street when you spot a large, unattended dog a few houses away. A lot of people go for walks carrying a baseball bat or large stick to protect themselves just in case the dog turns out to be, shall we say, unfriendly. First, carrying a baseball bat or a large stick can be cumbersome and get heavy after awhile.

Second, you have to be prepared to beat the dog (not an easy thing to do). Imagine how you will feel afterwards. So, instead, you will probably just turn around and walk back rather than take a

chance.

The last scenario as described above, has you walking your small dog on a leash, when your confronted by a larger, strange dog. Most likely, you will pick up your beloved pet, hold it close to you and then just hope for the best. Trying

to run away almost never works.

Let us look at some other options. One is to keep the dog from coming near you in the first place. You can accomplish this with an electronic animal repellant. Using ultrasonic technology, the devise produces a discomforting but not harmful high frequency sound, audible to dogs but not to humans.

One such device is the Ultrasonic Dog Chaser. It is small and lightweight. It measures 3 & 3/4 inches by 2 & 3/16 inches by 7/8 inches. That is roughly the size of a deck of cards. Weighing in at just 3.5 ounces with the 9-volt battery, it is quite compact. It has a frequency range between 20,000Hz - 25,000Hz. At 135dbs, it has an effective range up to 20 feet.

The device is easy to use, too. Point the animal repeller at the dog and press the button. That is all there is to it. It is also safe and humane. The electronic animal repeller is not the repeller of choice however, if your walking your dog.

A second option is to whip out your trusty dog repellent spray. Mace makes a safe, humane and effective dog repellent spray that is EPA approved. It sprays 8 to 10 feet, but do not spray it into the wind as the results could prove to be disastrous. Here is how it works.

When sprayed with a pepper spray dog repellent

spray, most dogs throw themselves on the ground rubbing their eyes. The painful burning effects of the spray typically wear off within a few minutes, leaving the dog healthy and unharmed.

Choose dog repellent sprays with pepper spray, also known as OC (oleoresin capsicum) spray, as its ingredient. Other sprays may not work on dogs that do not respond to pain. It is totally non-toxic.

Another option is the stun baton. A favorite among security guards, it is very effective on dogs. Just touch the dog on the face. It will drop to its knees, turn and run. Normally, however, the clicking sounds the baton makes when

turned on is enough to deter the dog.

Stun batons come in different lengths ranging

from 300,000 volts to 500,000 volts. A stun baton is a stun gun placed into a baton. Stun guns use high voltage and low amperage to temporarily disable an attacker. It does not rely on pain for results.

The energy stored in the gun is dumped into the attackers blood sugar by converting it to lactic acid. Unable to produce energy for the muscles, the body is unable to function properly. The stun gun also interrupts the tiny neurological impulses that control muscle movement, causing the attacker to lose their balance.

All this happens very rapidly. Should the attacker be touching you, the current will not pass to your body. Of course, as a last resort, you can use the baton as a stick or baseball ball to hit the dog with.

So go ahead and take that walk down the street, or pull out your bike and ride around the block again. There is no need to be afraid of those stray dogs any more. Have FUN!

You can find these devices in some stores and on most Internet sites selling self protection products.

House training your puppy is one of the most important tasks you can take on and is vital to harmonious living with your pet.

Every dog can learn to do his “business” outside and it is up to the owner to learn how to properly train his dog. It is best to start the training at as early an age as possible and remember to always treat your pet with kindness - yelling at him and rubbing his nose in his accidents will only make him afraid of you. These tips can help you get a perfectly house trained puppy in no time!

1. Establish a toilet area and make sure the puppy has unrestricted access to that area at all times.

2. When you are at home, take the puppy to the toilet area every 45 minutes.

3. When you are not at home or cannot supervise the puppy, it‘s important to make sure they puppy cannot have an accident. This means confining him to a small area that is puppy proofed and has a toilet area.

4. Make sure the toilet area does not resemble anything in your home. Training the puppy to eliminate on concrete, blacktop, grass or dirt is a good idea. The puppy should never be encouraged to eliminate on anything that resembles the hardwood flooring, tile or carpet he may encounter in a home.

5. Keep your puppy on a consistent feeding schedule. Feeding him at the same time every day will help to get him to eliminate at the same time.

6. Try using a crate. Since puppies will not want to soil their bed area, you can try using the crate to keep him on schedule.

7. Make sure you reward your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does use the toilet area. He will repeat the behavior if he starts to associate using the toilet area with good things, like treats, toys and praise from his owner.

8. Do not punish or yell at your puppy when he has an accident. This will only make him afraid of you and will not get you any closer to your goal.

9. Don’t give your puppy the run of the house until he is thouroughly house trained. Keep him confined in his crate or secluded in an area.

10. Be patient and persitent and your puppy will learn to do his business outside in no time!.

You spoil your pooch as close to rotten as you can get, don’t you? Hey, who doesn’t? It’s almost impossible not to, with those adorable, big, beautiful eyes, the little lashes, and the soft fur just behind the ears they almost beg to be spoiled. But what can you really do? There are all of those new doggie day spas, doggie day cares, and other doggie luxury services, but how often can you really afford things like that? I mean, most people rarely have enough cash in the bank to get themselves a surprise manicure and pedicure, much less spring for their pups to get a quadripedicure. You give her a few scratches behind the ears, rub her belly, and maybe give her a massage and splurge on some gourmet treats, but you have to pay rent and eat each month. Your budget just doesn’t allow for constant spoiling of your dog?

Or does it? You can make the shampoos, fragrances, and skin conditioners the doggie day spas use whenever you want for a lot less money than you think. Wouldn’t your pup love to have an at-home spa treatment? Give these recipes a shot the next time you want to pamper that pup:

Aromatic Dry Shampoo

250 ml (1 cup) cornmeal 250 ml (1 cup) baby/talcum powder 5 ml (1 tsp) rosemary 5 ml (1 tsp) lavender

Combine all of the ingredients in a large, airtight container and let them sit overnight. This will allow the rosemary and lavender to scent the other two ingredients lightly. When ready, sprinkle generously over your dog and brush it into her fur by working your fingers against the lay of her coat. Once it’s worked in thoroughly, use your fingers or a hard rubber brush to massage her coat in the direction of the fur but working in circles. Brush until the mixture is completely out of the coat. Your baby will smell great, the powder and cornmeal help absorb excess oil and dirt to clean her, and she won’t have had to go through the trauma of having a full bath! How great is that?

Herbal Shampoo

470 ml (2 cups) purified water 10 ml (1 tbsp) rosemary 10 ml (1 tbsp) orange zest 30 ml (2 tbsp) chamomile 10 ml (1 tbsp) lavender oil 120 ml (1/2 cup) baby shampoo

Bring water to a boil, and then remove from heat. Add all of the herbs, cover the dish, and allow it to steep overnight. Strain the mixture and stir in the oils, then gently add the shampoo until well mixed. This shampoo should be kept refrigerated for freshness when not in use, but use about 2 tablespoons every time you wash your dog for a sweet-smelling, great treat for both of you. Don’t forget to give her a little massage while you’re rubbing it in!

Lemon Flea Dip

3 lemons 940 ml (1 quart) water 60 ml (1/4 cup) baking soda 5 ml (1 tsp) herbal shampoo

Cut the lemons into eighths while bringing the water to a rolling boil. Add the lemons, boil for one hour, then cover and let the mixture steep overnight. Strain the solution then add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Warm to a tepid temperature before applying. To spoil your pup with the application, dip a sponge into the water and drizzle it slowly over her coat, then use your fingers to work it in using slow, deliberate circles focusing on points like the hips and shoulders. Give her a good massage – she deserves it! This shampoo uses citrus oil to help repel fleas, but the warm water and baking soda also help to soothe any existing irritations she may have.

I have a business card burning a hole in my Rolodex. It’s from an animal communicator. Someone who allegedly interprets mental pictures from animals. I love my dog dearly. He communicates with very expressive eyes and I don’t seem to have much trouble” getting” him. But because I’m so attached to him I’ve been toying with the idea of going that step further to find out what’s really in his mind. So why don’t I?

Well. Some givens going into the situation. What goes on in dog’s heads is important to them. They’re not likely to give you a tip on the fifth at Santa Anita. They think about food, toys, other dogs. And although I’m not quite sure how the process works I don’t think it’s like Karnak the Magician where you can ask questions.

But back to why I don’t just call the number and set up an appointment.

Maybe I’m not sure I want to know what my dog thinks of me or what goes on in his head. After all he is privy to all our secrets.

I once read a story, supposedly true, about a cat that peed on his owner’s bed every Sunday morning and at no other time. His mommy called in an animal communicator who asked the cat why he peed on the bed every Sunday. The cat replied that when mommy left the house to go to Church some other woman came in with her husband and they both booted him out of the bedroom. So he took a leak just to screw with them.

This may be an urban legend like the poodle in the microwave. But it sure makes you think twice about animal ESP.

I wonder what my boy would say about us to total strangers.

“ My mommy drinks wine sometimes and gets sad when daddy goes out? Daddy looks at pictures of naked ladies on the Internet when mommy goes to yoga class. They watch way too much TV. It hurts my ears”.

And how do they say anything? Do they use words? How can they say they like peanut butter if they don’t know that peanut butter is called peanut butter. To them it’s a pill delivery product.

I know that my dog adores me. I believe it’s unconditional. But what if I found out that what he was really thinking as he was jumping up at me as I came through the door was “You jerk, you left me alone for five hours and I’ve got to pee like a racehorse.” Little though he is he has the heart of a lion if he thinks I’m being threatened. But what if what he really felt was “I can’t believe I’ve got to step up AGAIN to get between you and this weird looking bum. Don’t you know better than to open the door to just anyone!”

I’ve been racking my brain trying to think of some human benefit from the limited amount of interspecies communication we’ve had so far. We were able to train dolphins to mine harbors so I guess you could say that that benefits us. But weren’t some of them blown up in the process? So, not so good for them. What about poor KoKo. Have we treated gorillas any better since we discovered they could experience bereavement and sadness?

Ultimately, what it may come down to is that I love my dog, and all animals, precisely because I can’t communicate with him in any kind of human way. I don’t need to reason with him; make a case; persuade him; or be critiqued on my wardrobe. I tell him what I want him to do and sometimes he actually does it. He tells me what he needs and he gets it. We have a pretty good system. If it ain’t broke why fix it?

Most pet owners like to spoil their animals a little, whether by giving them tasty treats to eat in addition to the food they need to keep them in good health, or by providing them with expensive toys to keep boredom at bay. The amount of money spent on our pets collectively is incredible, even when you exclude essential costs such as veterinary fees and the like.

However much we might pamper our pets, most of us won’t go so far as many animal lovers in Japan, where aging pets can have personal fitness trainers, sessions at a spa, massage, aromatherapy and acupuncture, providing a regimen for healthy life that not many of us humans even benefit from!

Although pampering your pet is normally harmless, there are a couple of problems to look out for. The first is that recent studies show that the more pampered a pet is, the less intelligent it’s likely to be. Doted-on pets tend to lose their natural problem solving abilities and can’t cope with difficulties - in short, they become a bit spoilt. This is rarely a real problem except in the most advanced cases, where a pet can all but take over it’s owner’s life!

A much more serious concern is that pampered pets will tend to be overweight, which can risk serious or even life-threatening illnesses and conditions. Help is at hand here too for the elite of pampered pets - there are an increasing number of specialist animal slimming clinics where pet owners can get both dietary advice and exercise plans tailored to their own animal to keep them in top condition.

Whether or not weight is an issue, veterinary fees can mount up for even the most pampered pet, especially in later life. As our pets are better and better cared for, their life expectancy levels are increasing. Unfortunately, this can also expose them to a greater risk of conditions and illnesses that only tend to appear in later years.

Many pet lovers choose to guard against this by taking out a pet insurance policy early on in their pet’s life. While this may seem like an unneccessary expense while your pet is young, healthy, and full of vigor, you might find it a small price to pay as your beloved pet gets a little more elderly.

The reason you should consider taking out a policy while your pet is still young is that almost all policies will exclude pre-existing conditions from claims. By taking out a policy on a healthy pet you’re ensuring that you’ll be able to make a claim for any illness that might develop in the future.

Many people don’t give any thought to insuring their pet, but with veterinary fees rising rapidly, it can now cost thousands of dollars to treat a moderate or serious condition. If you’re pampering your pet in all other areas of it’s life, it makes sense to think about how you’ll be able to afford the best treatment possible when your faithful companion really needs it!

Fleas belong to the insect order Siphonaptera. They are common pests and may attack many mammals, including man. They can be a year round problem because they infest not only pets but also the home of the owner. Because of this, treatment of the pet alone may only temporarily solve a flea infestation.

Although many species of fleas feed primarily on one type of animal, the common cat and dog flea will readily take blood from a variety of animals, including man. Flea infestations of pets and their homes will most likely involve the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis and occasionally the dog flea, C. canis.

Fleas are small (2 to 4 mm in length), brownish to black insects which are characteristically flattened from side to side. Adults are wingless and capable of jumping relatively long distances. Adults feed exclusively on blood with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. When not actively feeding, adult fleas often hide in locations frequented by the host animal such as your dog bedding, sofas, or carpeted areas.

The common cat and dog fleas breed throughout the year. After feeding and mating, the female deposits her eggs, usually on the host. Several eggs are laid daily and up to several hundred over a lifetime. Eggs normally fall off the host into bedding material or similar areas and hatch within two weeks.

Flea eggs accumulate in areas where the host spends most of its time. In addition, adult fleas defecate small pellets of digested blood which also drop off into the environment. A flea comb will often gather this fecal matter at the base of the tines providing a good sign of flea infestation. The combination of white flea eggs and black dried blood specks may appear as a sprinkling of salt and pepper where an infested animal has slept.

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis, that is, they pass through four developmental stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Immature fleas do not resemble adults at all.

Flea larvae are tiny, light colored, and, worm-like, without legs. They feed primarily on various debris and organic material including the droppings of the adults which contains digested blood. Flea larvae occur indoors and outdoors, wherever the eggs have fallen off the host. In houses, flea larvae live in carpeting, furniture, animal bedding and other protected areas with high humidity. Flea larvae also live outdoors in areas where animals spend time such as under porches in and around dog houses, etc.

Because flea larvae depend on the adult’s fecal pellets of dried blood as a food source, they cannot live in lawns or other outdoor areas unless the pet visits those areas enough to provide this food.

Depending on the species of flea and environmental conditions the larvae will pupate in one week to several months. The pupa is contained within a loose silken cocoon which is often covered by bits of debris. Under average conditions, the life cycle of the flea normally requires between 30 and 75 days but may take much longer. Adult fleas inside the cocoon, called pre-emerged fleas, will stay in that condition for weeks to months if no external cues from a host is available.

However, when disturbed by the presence of a host such as vibrations or carbon dioxide from exhaled breath, the fleas emerge simultaneously and attack the host. This is why it is possible to return to a house or apartment that has been empty for months and find it full of fleas.

When the normal host is available, fleas may feed several times a day but they are capable of surviving extended periods of starvation. In household situations, the normal host is a cat or dog. However, if the normal host is removed, starved fleas will readily seek other sources of blood and more often than not, man is the alternate host. In severe infestations, fleas will attack humans even though the normal host is present.

Certain species of fleas have been known to transmit such diseases as bubonic plague and murine typhus. These have never been a major problem. The major problems with fleas is as a nuisance pest of pets. The irritation and itching from flea bites results in scratching and potential secondary infection. Fleas may also transmit the double-pored dog tapeworm to dogs and cats.

Finally, persistent attacks from fleas can cause severe allergic responses in some people and pets. Once sensitized, a single flea bite may produce symptoms including hair loss, usually around the base of the tail, dermatitis, and intense itching. In worse cases, puppies and young kittens can also died from serious fleas infestations.

With proper flea management knowledge, flea problems will not be a big issue and can be battle and win over easily.

At last your new family member is coming home! You need to make some plans before bringing home your bundle of joy of a Chihuahua puppy. Make some of your home off-limits at first.

Now about furniture: Chihuahuas enjoy looking around their surroundings while perched on high….but they can hurt themselves jumping off high places. A good general rule to follow is if they can’t jump up to a place by themselves, they shouldn’t jump down from that place. You can buy or make a ramp that leads to favorite lookouts or nesting spots. Be sure a sleeping Chihuahua puppy or adult cannot roll off a high bed.

Chihuahua Puppy “things” to have in Advance of Arrival

• Toys: Fleece-type toys, balls, stuffed animals, empty plastic soda bottles and interactive toys. Check the toys you purchase to be sure no parts like squeakers or plastic eyes can be pulled off and swallowed.

• Chewbones: I recommend Nylabone edible and plastic in the petite size.

• Food and water bowls: Avoid plastic. I think stainless steel is about the best choice and bowls that have protective bottoms to keep them from sliding.

• Food: Start with the same food the Chihuahua puppy was eating with the breeder. Change to a new food very, very slowly, adding only a few kernels of the new food over a period of 2 or 3 weeks until you have completely changed him over to the food you prefer to feed.

• Soft buckle collar: Cat collars even work well for Chihuahua puppies.

• Lightweight leash: In general it seems the Chihuahua does not like to go on long walks. However, you will need a leash and collar for outside housebreaking or just to keep good control on the Chihuahua puppy where you go.

• Sweater: If your area is cool to cold.

• Coat: If your area is cool to cold.

• Fleece t-shirts: If your area is cool to cold.

• Soft brush.

• Dog Shampoo (consult with your vet or groomer about which kind).

• Nail clippers: guillotine type is easiest to use.

• Dog bed

• Dog crate for housebreaking and den times.

• Baby gates

• A doggy door

• Poop scoop: Two-piece set

• Fenced outdoor area.

Also beware of the following household killers to your new Chihuahua puppy:

• Drugs

• Chocolate (especially baker’s chocolate)

• Rodent, snail and insect baits

• Antifreeze

• Household cleaners

• Paint thinner

• Toilet fresheners

• Nuts, bolts, pennies, and any metal – especially zinc

• Pins and needles, and anything in a sewing basket

• Chicken bones or any bone that could be swallowed

• Sponges

You will need to think about some kind of identification. The following list may help you decide:

• A license tag

• A tag made of a brass plate fit snug to the collar

• Tattoos

• Microchips

Chihuahua puppies can chew electrical cords and/or lick outlets that can cause electrocution and burns. Take precautions with your electric cords and outlets.

Chihuahua puppies can jump or fall from decks and staircases. These are prime areas to use your baby gates.

Take a look at what lies close within your Chihuahua puppy’s reach. Put up or remove all your treasured items. You don’t want to find things you cherish all chewed up by little Chihuahua puppy.

This article is FREE to publish with the resource box.

Getting the right trainer for your dog or puppy is critical in training your pet the way that you, as the owner, feel comfortable. A trainer is just like a teacher or a coach for children, if you don’t feel comfortable with how they are handling your pet you will not likely continue the training method at home which will lead to confusion and non-compliance with your dog. A good trainer or professional will always be willing to share their views on dog training as well as explain their methods and philosophy for training.

Points To Consider

Before deciding on the professional trainer to work with both yourself and you dog do a bit of research. The following questions are important to consider to be certain that the trainer that you choose will be the correct match.

1. What type of training does the kennel or trainer offer?

There are different types of trainers and various training methods. If you want a hunting dog or scent dog then the trainer should have experience in this type of specialization. Guard dogs or dogs for home protection require additional training over basic obedience and should only be trained by someone experienced with guard dog. Obedience training is different than event training and be sure the trainer has some experience in the area you are interested in.

2. What qualifications does the trainer have?

Trainers may be certified or recognized by a training association in your area or location, or they may simply have been working for a long period of time in the area and we well known by breeders and event competitors. Never be afraid to ask what qualifications or experience the trainer has.

3. What references are available?

Does the trainer have a list of references that he or she is willing to provide regarding the services they have provided. If the trainer has a certification ask what agencies granted it and do a bit of research. References should be local people or breeders and they should be open to talking about their experiences and results of using the particular trainer.

4. How should I find a trainer?

There are many different ways to locate a trainer. One of the best ways to locate a trainer in your area is to simply ask your veterinarian which professional trainer they recommend. Another option is to talk to other dog owners, especially ones with well-behaved dogs, and find out what trainers or training methods that they have used.

Attending dog shows and other events may also be helpful. Watch for handlers and owners that respond to their dogs the same way that you would like to have your dog treated and ask who has assisted with the training.

Dog owners tend to be very good references and are always happy to discuss a positive experience with a trainer. Equally most dog owners will also indicate that they had an unpleasant experience if that is the case. Remember that each trainer has their own unique style and personality so attending one or two classes and watching how the trainer responds to both the people and the dogs is a great way to get an insight into the philosophy of the training methods.