Pets

When one takes a moment to think about it — perhaps the most difficult and agonizing decision to be made on behalf of your Dog is choosing a vet.

The first and most essential step is to educate your self on the Dog and aspects such as diet, health care, behavioral problems, and emergency care. This will enable you to understand what the vet is saying and you can then be a part of any decision making process where the well being of your Dog is concerned.

After all, it is the vet who will:

Ensure good health of the Dog

Treat the Dog with care when sick.

Be a good advisor and friend to you the pet-parent when you are worried.

Give timely advice.

Be available on call at all times.

Put the interests of the Dog ahead of everything else.

Be educated and well informed of new developments in the field of medicine.

A or B—who is the Perfect choice?

In this vital decision of choosing between A or B, you the parent must make an informed decision.

The right way to go about choosing a Vet:

Ask a friend or the breeder to make a recommendation. Even other Dog owners will be helpful and candid about their own experiences.

Make an effort to visit the clinic when you are not expected there — it will give you a chance to see how it functions.

Check for cleanliness, a professional atmosphere, and a feeling of comfort combined with professionalism.

Request a tour of the facility – meet the staff.

Find out what kind of practice it is – allopathic or holistic.

Determine whether the vet is a member of any organization/body. Do check with the Medical Board and ask if there are any complaints registered.

Try and find out how many Dogs are patients—many vets do not have experience in the care of “toy breeds.”

Ask if the same doctor will treat your Dog every time. Also, whether anyone will stay with the dog if ever an overnight stay at the clinic becomes necessary.

Take your Dog for a visit and see how he is treated by the staff/doctors.

Find out what the charges are and whether they are available for emergency calls. Also whether they accept insurance plans, credit cards, and if they have in place any health care schemes.

Find out whether the clinic offers/knows about alternative treatments such as acupuncture, chiropractic, and herbal treatments.

The “key” is to however trust your own instincts.

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And the wrong way…:

He is handsome or friendly.

Because the clinic is a hop, skip, and jump away from your home.

The interiors are done stylishly.

His rates are the lowest.

You must choose him only because, “he is the best” and you are in total/complete agreement with his philosophies.

There are basically two different lines of thought/treatment.

The “Allopathic” represented by the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) that practice medicine known as allopathic, conventional, or western medicine.

OR

The “Holistic” philosophy represented by the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association ( AHVMA) which uses holistic or natural methods to treat dogs. This kind is known as holistic or natural medicine.

What is the difference? You will find when you do a bit of research that their very perceptions differ.

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The Toy Fox Terrier is a happy little dog, full of the energy of life. She likes to hunt small vermin and is fairly easy to train. She may accept other dogs and larger pets especially if well socialized when young. She is a bit fragile due to small size so older, calm children do best with her. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the Toy Fox Terrier is 10 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 3.5 to 7 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Toy Fox Terrier is no exception. Although considered a very healthy breed, be on the look out for legg clave perthes and stifle. They may also shoe allergies to wheat, corn and beets. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Toy Fox Terrier has a smooth easy to care for coat. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Toy Fox Terrier can live between 13 and 14 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Toy Fox Terrier comes from England or it was developed in the USA, depending upon who you talk to. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 2001.

Some Registries

• UKC United Kennel Club
• NKC National Kennel Club
• CKC Continental Kennel Club
• APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
• AKC American Kennel Club
• FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
• NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
• KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
• ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
• ACR American Canine Registry

Category

Toy

Terms To Describe

Intelligent, personality, character, courage, athletic, affectionate, friendly, loyal, animated

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

• Makes a good watch dog.
• Very affectionate.
• They shed lightly.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

• Makes a poor guard dog.
• Can not stand cold weather.
• Very light shedder.
• Can be stubborn.

Other Names Known By

American Toy Terrier, AmerToy

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

As a loving pet owner, you want your dog to live a great life. You can do this thanks to the many advances in veterinary medicine. Dogs can live longer and healthier. And, the quality of your dog’s health is all about how well you and your vet work together to make it so.

Your first vet visit should be within the first ten days that you own her. In this time period, the vet will get measurements and weights for her. They will also check the blood and stool of the animal to insure there are no health concerns there. It is also important for you to get some basic education on modern pet care from your vet during that first appointment. The vet will be able to tell you how to brush the dog’s teeth, how to clean his ears as well as how to clip toenails. Just ask.

The next thing that you should keep in mind is your dog’s food. A well balanced diet will include foods that are good quality and in the correct amounts. Your dog needs the right nutrients to sustain a healthy lifestyle. You can always ask your vet which is the best food for your dogs as well as understanding how much to feed them. You don’t have to purchase the highest priced product on the store shelves either. Some of the most costly are not even that good for your dog. There are great inexpensive choices for you as well.

You need to give your dog exercise. It helps to strengthen muscles and keeps her weight under control. It helps with the immune system of the pet as well. You may actually have to encourage your dog to be active. If a dog seems to be a couch potato type animal, you need to find a way to get them moving. Other dogs are naturally active. You should put some time each day aside for the exercise of your pet.

Your dog will need to be seen by the vet at least once per year. This will allow the vet to insure the dog’s health as well as test for parasites that may be there. Blood and stool samples will be used for this. It is important to do this so that the vet can spot and treat problems before they threaten your dog’s health severely. You should also mention anything different that your dog is doing during this time. For example some pets will lick paint or will eat strange substances. These are signs that something is medically wrong and you should bring it to your vet’s attention.

Also important during this visit is that the vaccines will be updated. This is very important to your dog’s life. And, in some areas, it is required by law to have them done.

Lastly, you’ll need to know how to choose a vet. Do it the same way you would choose your own doctor. They should be someone that you trust and feel comfortable talking with. The vet should encourage your questions and support your needs.

It may come as a surprise, if you’re a new cat owner, that many health problems may befall your feline friend. Some problems are easily preventable, while others are hereditary.

Hairballs

Hairballs are among the most common of cat health problems. Cats groom themselves almost constantly, and swallow the loose hair that comes off their tongues. Occasionally, the hair gathers into a ball and lodges in the cat’s digestive tract instead of passing on through the body. If your cat starts coughing and hacking, he probably has a hairball. While the end product is unpleasant for the owner, most cats don’t have a problem dislodging hairballs.

However, hairballs can occasionally pass into a cat’s intestines and cause a blockage. This can be a life-threatening problem. There are a few signs to look for to see if your cat’s hairball is dangerous. If your cat is constipated, off his feed, or is lethargic with a dull coat, then he could have a serious blockage. A vet exam is definitely in order.

To prevent hairballs, groom your cat frequently to remove loose hair. In addition, feed your cat food that helps control hairballs.

Worms

For many cats, worms are a recurring problem. Roundworms, tapeworms, and hookworms most commonly infect cats. Cats can occasionally develop heartworms, as well. If your cat seems unable to gain wait, is infested with fleas, or has white specks that look like grains of rice in his stools, take him to the veterinarian for worm testing.

Worms are easily cured with a few doses of medication, but if left untreated, they can be fatal.

Urinary Tract Infections

Urinary tract infections are another common health problem in cats. This infection is particularly common in unneutered male cats, although female cats can also develop this problem. If your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, a urinary tract infection is suspect. If your cat’s urine smells strong, again a urinary tract infection may be the cause. These infections need to be treated by a veterinarian. Ask about cat foods that reduce the likelihood of another infection.

Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)

FIP is caused by a mutation of the corona virus. According to some experts, cats living in multi-cat environments tend to test positive for enteric corona virus. Cats can live with that virus remaining quietly in the intestines with no sign of disease for their entire lifetime. In other cases, probably a genetic pre-disposition, the virus mutates into FIP.

Once a cat has contracted FIP, it will display symptoms of a mild upper respiratory infection: sneezing, watery eyes, and nasal discharge. It may also have diarrhea, weight loss and lethargy. Most cats fully recover from this primary infection, although some may become virus carriers. A small percentage of exposed cats develop lethal FIP weeks or even years after the primary infection.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus

FIV, or cat AIDS, is not always fatal. FIV decreases the ability of the cat’s immune system to fight infections. Cats with FIV may remain free of symptoms for years. It is when the cat contracts other illnesses in the chronic stage of FIV infection that FIV is first suspected. This long list of illnesses includes oral-cavity infections, upper-respiratory infections, weight loss, ear infections, kidney disease, and many others. Although there is, as yet, no vaccine, all cats should be tested for the virus. The virus is transmitted through saliva, usually when a cat is bitten in a cat fight.

Feline Leukemia Virus

FLV was, until recently, the most common fatal disease of cats. But with a vaccine now available, the number of cases is dwindling. Although the name leukemia means cancer of the white blood cells, this is only 1 of the many diseases associated with this virus, such as other types of cancer, anemia, arthritis and respiratory infections. FLV is preventable if the cat is immunized before being exposed to the virus. Although the disease is not always immediately fatal, cats with FLV rarely have a long life expectancy. NEVER bring other cats into your household when you have a cat with FLV.

Lyme Disease

If your cat spends time outdoors, you should check him regularly for ticks. If you find a tick on your cat’s body and he has been lethargic and acts as if he is in pain, ask your vet to test for Lyme Disease. This disease is transmitted to people and animals by deer ticks.

Some cats may show subtle symptoms while others may show none — symptoms are hard to recognize and often may be confused with other illnesses or old age. Be observant of your pet’s behavior. It is the only way to know if your pet has contracted Lyme disease if no tick was found. Some symptoms of Feline Lyme Disease include:

(a) lethargy,

(b) reluctance to jump or climb stairs,

(c) limping, or reluctance to put weight on a paw,

(d) loss of appetite.

The key to dealing with Feline Lyme Disease is prevention and early diagnosis and treatment. You should reduce the tick population around your home with simple landscape changes and spraying.

Good Health Care

Taking your cat for a regular check-up with the vet, and keeping all vaccinations on schedule will help assure your cat a long and healthy life. Prevention is the first line of defense for most feline illnesses.

Many owners keep their cats indoors to protect them from cars, from cat fights which may expose them to deadly viruses, from ticks, and other hazards.

Outdoor cats will enjoy greater freedom, but require a watchful eye, loving attention to their health status, and regular visits to the veterinarian.

What is a microchip ID?

A microchip ID is a very, very small chip (about the size of grain of rice). It is encoded with an identification number. This identification number is entered into a data bank – national or local depending on the brand – and lists the pet’s name, owner’s name, address, and phone number. There is no cost to you for the upkeep of your address and phone number if you move or to change the information completely if you give your dog away.

Three companies that produce these microchip IDs are HomeAgain Pet Recovery Service, 24PetWatch and AVID Microchip I.D. Each sponsors their own national data base for pet information. Scanners to get the identification code from the microchip are owned by a variety of pet resources from veterinary clinics to animal shelters. Scanners manufactured to read the code from the microchips made by one company will detect the presence of another company’s microchip but will not be able to read the information.

How does the microchip get inside the dog?

Much like a shot, the microchip is injected between the shoulder blades, just under the skin. It will be viable for your dog’s entire life and will never need tune up or replacing. The microchip can be scanned by a handheld electronic scanner.

Will a microchip ID hurt my dog?

Well, no one likes to get a shot. But if comfort is the concern, which is worse: a quick shot or adjusting to life in a cell – or with a new family – when her owner is a mystery.

The scanner causes no pain to the animal.

What are the benefits of a microchip ID?

If your dog is ever lost and picked up by the SPCA, the Humane Society, or animal rescue, she will be checked for a microchip. Your address and phone number will be there in the data bank, you will be contacted immediately, and your pet will be returned to you.

What are the drawbacks of a microchip ID?

None, really. But it’s important for pet owners to understand that this is far from a tracking device hooked up to a satellite in the sky. It won’t help you find your pet should she get lost or runaway from home. But it will help your pet find you if she is picked up by a shelter or animal rescue service.

And you do need to make sure that your contact information is not only registered in the data base at the clinic or shelter who puts in the microchip but also with the company who created. You must also make sure that this information is corrected if it changes. An old address and phone number won’t help your pet find its way home to you.

Can a cat benefit from a microchip ID?

Absolutely. Cats are much less amenable to wearing a collar than are dogs and will love the freedom of going without one. With a microchip, your cat will find its way home to you without a bothersome collar.

How do I get a microchip ID for my pet? Is it expensive?

Veterinarians can provide this service, as can most animal shelters. Animal shelters will provide the service for much less than a vet. If you opt to have a microchip inserted in your pet when you adopt it, the fee is only a few dollars in most cases. Data base upkeep should you move or give your pet away is free for the life of the animal.

The process is called ‘microchipping’ and it may cost anywhere from $5 at an animal shelter up to $50 at a private veterinary clinic.

I have a sister and brother-in-law who has friends over all the time. Every year they entertain their friends time and time again. If it isn’t a New Years party or Fourth of July party, they will come up with a reason to have a party. Let me tell you, when they throw a party, you are sure to have a good time. The food is overwhelming, a band or DJ and fun, fun, fun.

Let me tell you about the last party they had. They were having a get together for Labor Day and they wanted to do something different. They had bought a Yorkshire puppy a few weeks before. And, of course they are going to bred him with a friends puppy when the time is right. Well, they came up with the idea of the two getting married. Oh yes, a puppy wedding. Knowing my sister she probably sent out invitations.

The wedding day finally is here. All the guys wore tee-shirts that looked like tuxedos and all had a little flower pinned on their shirt and my sister all dressed up with her corsair on. They had the wedding in their garage, which doesn’t even look like a garage. It looks more like a game room to me. Any ways, they have all the chairs set up, even with real flowers pinned on them. Now back to the couple to be married. A friend of theirs made the outfits for the puppies. Oscar was wearing a tux and Molly was wearing a wedding dress along with a veil. You will not believe how cute they looked.

This is the announcement of the wedding and nuptials, it is really cute. OSCAR FELTES & MOLLY JOHNSON WERE MARRIED SEPTEMBER 2, 2006 ST THE GROOM’S PARENT’S HOME. BROTHER OF THE GROOM WAS BEST MAN. FRIEND OF THE BRIDE WAS MAID OF HONOR. THE BRIDE AND GROOM WERE MARRIED BY JACKIE LEE BAILEY , JUDGE OF THE CANINE COURT OF NORTHAMPTON COUNTY.THE BRIDE AND GROOM CHOSE TO WRITE THEIR OWN VOWS, OSCAR: MOLLY, THE DAY WE MET IT WAS LOVE AT FIRST SITE. YOU ARE THE DOG OF MY DREAMS. ALTHOUGH OUR PARENTS PLANNED THE NUPTIALS BEFORE WE EVEN MET I WOULD HAVE SAT UP AND BEGGED FOR YOUR PAW IN MARRIAGE. YOU ARE THE LOVE OF MY LIFE AND I LOOK FORWARD TO THE DAY WE HAVE CHILDREN OF OUR OWN.

MOLLY: OSCAR, WHEN WE MET I THOUGHT YOU WERE TO YOUNG FOR ME, BUT THROUGH OUT OUR COURTSHIP I REALIZED HOW MUCH I LOVE YOU AND WANT TO BE MRS. Oscar FELTES. I GLADLY GIVE YOU MY PAW IN MARRIAGE.

Let me tell you, this wedding was so much like the real thing. They not only dressed like the real thing, they also had the satin pillow with bracelets laying on it for them to exchange instead of rings… Each bracelet had their name on it. Their table was set up with their marriage license and flowers, and yes a cake in the shape of a dog bone. They also had another cake that was looked like it had dog bones on it and the cake was topped with two little dogs. Yes, you guessed it, the puppies got the cake in the bone shape and the guess got the other one to share. Oh yes, they even played the wedding march music.

The announcement of the wedding even made the newspaper along with a color picture of the newly weds.

I got to hand it to my sister and brother-in-law, when they come up with an idea, it is usually a good one. I can’t wait to see what they will do next.

If you are planning to travel with your cat, first ask yourself these questions: Are cats allowed at my destination? If so, will my cat adjust to conforming to regulations concerning pets and really be happy away from home? Cats tend to be creatures of habit and it is important that your cat can adapt to change.

The pets who travel best are those who have been trained to ride in a car. If you would like to include your cat in your travel plans, accustom it to riding in the car. Ideally this training begins in kittenhood and it should be a happy experience for the kitten. Dont make the kittens first car ride a trip to the veterinarian. Begin by allowing the kitten to sit in the car to become familiar with the surroundings. Then take it for a short drive each day, even if it is only around the block.

If your cat seems unable to adjust to travel, you may decide that you and your cat will be happier if it stays home. Search out a responsible sitter or a boarding facility. If you choose to board your cat, make reservations well in advance of the trip, particularly during summer months and around major holidays.

The policy regarding cats varies with motels and hotels. Contact the reservations department in advance of your trip to determine if your cat will be welcome. Do not leave a cat unattended in a room. If a maid were to enter, the cat could become frightened and might run from the room. If, for any reason, you must leave the cat alone in the room for a short period of time, place it in its carrier or post a do not disturb sign on the door. If your cat is not in a carrier or in a secure location at your travel destination, keeping it on a leash is recommended.

When you travel with a cat, a change in its environment and routine may be a jolt to its feeling of security. Your love and understanding are needed to reassure your cat and to help it become a good travel companion.

Preparing for the Trip: If you plan to take your cat with you, be certain its vaccination shots are up-to-date. Your veterinarian will also issue health and rabies certificates which may be needed if you fly and will certainly be needed if you cross international borders. Carrying these certificate with you is a good idea. If you should have to board your cat during the trip, the kennel may require proof of immunization.

Your cat will also need its grooming equipment and its regular grooming schedule should be maintained. This is particularly true for longhaired cats to avoid tangled and matted hair which can lead to skin infections.

Do not feed your cat for at least three hours before leaving on a trip. Feed it shortly after arriving at your destination unless the trip is a long one. In that case, provide a snack and water during the trip. If the cats usual diet is not available at your destination, take a supply with you so no digestive upsets will be caused by a sudden diet change.

If your cat is accustomed to wearing a collar (a stretch collar designed for cats) be certain an identification tag is attached to the collar. The ID tag should give the cats name, your name, home address and telephone number including the area code, and, if possible, your vacation address and telephone number. Take pictures of your cat and write a description of your cat, including its height, weight, color, and any distinguishing marks to take with you. If your cat should become lost, these identification aids could make the difference in finding it.

Traveling By Air With Your Cat: If you are traveling by air with your cat, ask about what health certificates are needed. They vary with airline and your destination. There are usually two basic options for air travel. Some airlines allow cats to travel (generally for a fee) with their owners if a carry-on carrier fits under the passenger seat. The other option is to rent or purchase a flight crate which meets airline regulations and the cat is transported in the crate in the baggage compartment.

Because some airlines have limited space to accommodate pets, always make reservation well in advance.

On the day of the flight bring a cushion or blanket to put on the crate floor. Check to see if the water cup is attached to the crate door. The cup should be deep and not too full of water to avoid spilling. On a short flight, you may wish to detach the cup and store it with your luggage and provide water for drinking at the end of the flight.

To reduce the risk of air travel for your cat, try to avoid peak travel periods when delays and stopovers are longer. Traveling in extreme cold or hot weather could be dangerous if your cat must wait very long before loading and unloading. Plan the trip with as few stops and transfers as possible. Pets in transit tend to sleep the hours away, but during stops and transfers they may become frightened. Airport facilities vary and, as a result, pets may be left in the sun or rain without adequate protection or inadequate food or water during long waits between flights. At the end of your trip, pick up your cat promptly.

Plane travel is the fastest way to reach your destination, but some risk is involved for kittens, older cats or cats with health problems. If you have doubts, consult your veterinarian.

International Travel: If you are planning on international travel or relocation or a trip to Hawaii, keep in mind that certain countries require a quarantine at the owner’s expense. When you return, a quarantine office at customs will check documents and inspect your pet. The official may require confinement of any pet you have purchased abroad. Normally this is in your home rather than in official quarantine. Pets purchased abroad all require proof of immunization, certificates of good health, and payment of import duty.

Traveling By Car With Your Cat: If you are traveling by car, a carrier is a must. It should be strong, well-ventilated and one the cat cannot escape from. Before traveling, place the carrier where the cat can become acquainted with it. Placing a favorite toy or blanket in the carrier may help accustom the cat to the carrier. Take the cat for several rides around town in the carrier before attempting a longer trip.

While you are driving, always keep the cat confined in the carrier. This ensures safe, comfortable driving for you and your cat. Place a soft mat or cushion on the carrier floor. During hot weather never put the carrier on the sunny side of the car where it will become overheated.

One of the greatest dangers to a cat is leaving it in a closed car, even for a few minutes during hot weather. Cars heat quickly and leaving windows open a few inches does not always provide sufficient circulating air to keep you cat cool and comfortable. Insufficient air can lead to heat stress, suffocation and death.

If it is necessary to leave your cat in the car for a short period of time, choose a shaded area. Leave the windows open as far as safely possible to provide air circulation. Keep the cat in the carrier. Check the car frequently and never leave your cat for an extended time. Motion sickness may be a problem with your cat. If this occurs and if taking your cat with you is essential, discuss preventive measures with your veterinarian.

If the drive is eight hours or longer, give the cat an opportunity to use a litter pan every three or four hours. If the cat is inclined to have accidents along the way, put newspapers on the bottom of the carrier and sprinkle cat litter on them. The newspaper and soiled litter can be removed as needed.

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Much like their owners, more and more dogs worldwide are showing

signs of obesity. Besides limiting their enjoyment of life as a

dog, extra body weight can lead to to joint and heart problems,

shorter lives, and sometimes behavioural issues.

The easiest way to tell whether or not your dog is obese is to

examine his body. Try the following:

* Have him stand up, then stand above him. Does his body slope

inward at the waist?

* Run your hands over his sides from front to back legs. Can

you feel his ribs fairly easily?

* Feel the base of his tail. Are the bones easily detectable?

* Look at him from the side. Does his tummy slope upward as it

gets closer to his tail?

If you answered no to any of the questions, your pup is probably

overweight. If you answered “What waist/ribs/tail bones?” and

“Upward? Really?,” your pup is probably obese.

The methods for treating obesity in dogs is fairly simple: eat

less, exercise more.

Eat less

* If your dog has a constant supply of food, remove it.

* Buy a food scoop with measuring lines and portion his food

based on the charts on your food labels.

* Create a feeding schedule and stick to it. Whether you split

the amount among two feedings or one larger meal, stay with the

routine and he’ll adjust to it.

Be forewarned, though. Dogs are survival eaters and don’t react

well when their food supply is threatened. She may suddenly,

start raiding the trash or taking food off of the counter.

Exercise more

It won’t take any convincing to get your dog to exercise more,

just get the leash and head out for a walk.

Plan to spend an hour total every day walking. I realize that

it’s hard these days to find the time. If you have kids, drag

them away from the TV and go for a family walk after dinner. If

you work out yourself, figure out a way to incorporate your dog

into your routine.

On the weekends, head to the park with a tennis ball or a

Frisbee.

Think of it this way: Would you rather see your dog running,

tongue out, tail wagging for 10 years, or that he lay around the

house for five?

How many people get to have a to-do list that includes “Play

with Dog”?

The right diet and exercise can make your dog more social, more

obedient, and more dedicated to you due to the extra time you

spend together.

Wasn’t that the whole reason you decided to get a dog in the

first place?

If you are keeping tetras, chances are you are breeding tetras, even if unknowingly. In the wild, tetras normally breed during the rainy season, but in the aquarium, they may breed year round. Female tetras are egg-scatters that typically fill with eggs every ten to fourteen days.

The female tetra indiscriminately sprays her eggs into clumps of fine-leaved plants. The eggs are adhesive and stick to the plants. However, tetras as well as other tank mates often find tetra eggs and small fry an irresistible delicacy.

If breeding tetras is your goal in keeping them, the best thing to do is to separate males and females. This allows you to keep control of breeding and improves your chance of achieving a successful hatch of fry. Smaller species of female tetras become sexually active at nine to twelve months old with larger species ready to breed at 1 ½ to 2 years of age.

Male tetras are generally a month or two older than females for successful spawning to take place.

Males are typically slimmer and more colorful than their female companions are. When viewed from above, the female tetra is distinguishably plumper and rounder because of the build-up of eggs within her body.

Two weeks before breeding tetras, separate males and females within the same tank. This is done simply by putting a clear divider between them, which not only gives you control of breeding but also stimulates spawning behavior since the fish are kept within sight of each other. Breeding tetras is also encouraged during the pre-spawn period by feeding them with high-quality live foods.

When ready to breed tetras, you’ll get the best results by using a separate breeding tank, prepared with a peat filter and clean, aged water in which clumps of fine-leaved plants have been strategically placed. Three ways to complete your tank for breeding tetras are:

1. Drape the tank with nylon netting to allow the eggs to fall to the tank floor away from hungry adults.
2. Cover the tank floor with marbles to hide the eggs and protect them from cannibalism.
3. Plant fine-leaved plants or artificial spawning mops in seed trays filled with coarse gravel to trap the eggs and prevent them from being eaten.

Females should be placed in the breeding tank earlier than the males, usually the night before breeding. In addition to allowing her to settle in, it also puts the male in the position of having to court her on her own turf. This technique can deter any aggressive tendencies he may display. After introducing the male to the breeding tank, it’s best to watch his introductory moves.

Males often show aggressive behavior during spawning. If the male attacks a female, remove her and re-separate the pair. Another female can be tried or alternatively, two to three females can be introduced to the breeding tank to keep the male from focusing his attention on only one. Remove adult fish from the breeding tank immediately after breeding tetras.

If you are interested in Tetra Fish, on our site we have a free e-book available about these wonderful creatures.

When confronted with such variety of plants for your aquarium, there is a great temptation to take a piece of everything that appeals to you. If you do this, you will be wasting money needlessly.

A dozen different kinds of plants in a tank will compete for food and light, and before long the strongest will have gained all of the space, and leave the others dying off. So exercise self-restraint and limit your choice to only three kinds. Two of these plants should be for massing in the background, and one as a center-piece.

For one of the two plants to be placed in the background, I would suggest that one be either Vallisneria or Sagittaria (not both in one tank though, as they tend to compete).

For the second plant, it always looks nice to have one of the bushy plants, and of these, Hygrophila is the easiest to grow. But also note that Cabomba-Limnophila or Ludwigia are more decorative for the tropical tank. These suggestions are also the best ones if you are starting a cold-water aquarium.

And your third plant, the center-piece, a Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus or an Aponogeton are recommended for warm water aquariums, and a Hottonia, Muphar or Ranunculus do especially well for the cold water. Not to mention they are all very lovely to look at!

Healthy plants are plump, crisp and intense in color; refuse those that are limp and pale. Most aquatic plants are rather brittle when out of water and must be handled carefully. Never pick them up by the middle of the stem; the best way is to lift them by the base, so that they hang down from the fingers. Select young, half-grown plants rather than fully grown ones, and with as many leaves as possible.

Many of the plants which propagate by cuttings will be seen to have fine, hair-like roots sprouting from the nodes from which the branches grow; choose these, as they will “take” more quickly.

Plants with crowns must have good roots, and you should examine these to see that they are plump and bushy.

Of all of the aquarium plants available, the ones listed above have always proven to be the most reliable and attractive. Be sure to pick the healthiest ones of the bunch, and you will be creating a great looking, and happy aquarium.